UWMU

I recently noticed a grinding noise coming from the right rear brakes on my '98 CL. I thought it was a warped rotor and was going to replace the pads and rotors today. After taking the wheel off, I inspected the rotor and there doesn't seem to be any warping. The pads have a lot left on them. The rotor moves somewhat freely, but grinds as it turns.

I took both screws out of the pins on the caliper, but the bottom bolt is stuck out in the extended position. The top bolt and bushing moves back and forth easily.

Any advice on how to free up this bolt and remove the caliper?

Should I get a new caliper entirely ($40) or just replace the pins and bushings ($12)?

Also I have a right rear ABS wheel sensor light on for a while. It had been intermittent for a long time but now is solid. Do you think there's any relation? I know I need to replace it; I've tried cleaning it with no success.

UWMU

Here is a photo to illustrate what I'm talking about:

UWMU

732xghost

iTrader: (1)

just get a new caliper. both my rear calipers seized up at 1 point. the driverside seized shut and the passenger side was sezied open. lol

check out post #11 in case you didnt know about this
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hlight=akebono

P0401

iTrader: (1)

I remember when I first got my license I was driving a Fiero GT and as I was passing by a meineke shop all 4 brakes locked down as I was approaching the light and it wouldn't go anywhere. I had to call a tow truck to drag the car 20 feet into the meineke shop to get it fixed. So after a $50.00 tow bill and about $1000.00 for meineke later I could actually drive the car again. That was the only time I have ever had any caliber seize on me and at that 1 time all 4 of them locked down and refused to let go, bout slung me through the wind shield

UWMU

I guess I used the wrong terminology. It's not my caliper that seized up but the bushing/pin that the photo above shows. I got a replacement pin, bushing, and lube for about $15.

I don't think I need a whole new caliper if it's just that pin that seized up, right?

732xghost

iTrader: (1)

no. i thought you meant if the piston seized up.

Blazin Si

The rubber boot around the slide pin on my pass/rear bracket rotted away and rusted out the pin. Plus, one of the bolts holding the caliper to the bracket is seized.

I'm replacing the whole assembly, but if you can get the pin out and make sure it slides with the right amount of resistance, then go for it. 12$ is a cheap fix.

Another option is to replace just the bracket. It should come with the pins, boots and lube for less than $20.

UWMU

Thanks for the help. I was able to hammer out the pin and replaced both pins with new ones. I used a wire brush and some Q-tips to clean out the assembly the pins slide into. I also ended up replacing the rotors and pads on both sides just to be safe.

The other side also had a dried out pin, but instead of buying replacement pins, I just used a grinder and some steel wool to clean off the old ones. That worked just as well as buying new ones.

Soulman

Is the bracket that the pins slide into available separate from the caliper? I have this issue on both sides of my 97 CL 3.0. Does anyone have a part number, Honda or Acura? Thank you very much.