Perplexing Highway Vibration/Shake
#1
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Perplexing Highway Vibration/Shake
Cliffnotes:
-The car vibrates at highway speeds.
-Nobody can figure out why, even after replacing the brakes, a motor mount, a cv axle, and all four tires. Also had an alignment and re-balanced the wheels.
-I don't know what to do.
I took it to my mechanic, he said, "Your tires are nearly bald, that could be causing it." He also told me I'd need new brakes fairly soon, but they still had life in them. He also inspected all the suspension components and determined they were all fine. So I got new tires, since the tread was extremely low and not even there in some places.
The tire place mounts and balances them, and the vibration is still there.
I take it back for them to check out, and they said, "Your cv axle is busted, that's probably causing the vibration. Also, you need an alignment."
So I get an alignment, a new high quality cv axle installed, along with new rear brakes (calipers, rotors, and pads; the fronts were all fine), new motor mount, and some other miscellaneous stuff.
Vibration is still there.
So I take it to a different shop, tell them my problem, and they said, "It sounds like a wheel balancing issue, but we'll make sure none of your wheels are out of round or anything too."
So they balance all the wheels and give me a call. "They were all balanced fine, so we're not charging you for what we did."
I say, "So what is the problem?"
He said, "Well, you lowered the thing, so that messes stuff up. Honestly, I can't pinpoint what's causing it."
I asked, "So what do I do now?"
To which he replied, "Live with it."
I can't live with this, as I drive about 3 hours every day on the highway. It's extremely annoying, and I'm afraid it's abnormally wearing my new tires, and who knows what else.
What's left to do??
-The car vibrates at highway speeds.
-Nobody can figure out why, even after replacing the brakes, a motor mount, a cv axle, and all four tires. Also had an alignment and re-balanced the wheels.
-I don't know what to do.
I took it to my mechanic, he said, "Your tires are nearly bald, that could be causing it." He also told me I'd need new brakes fairly soon, but they still had life in them. He also inspected all the suspension components and determined they were all fine. So I got new tires, since the tread was extremely low and not even there in some places.
The tire place mounts and balances them, and the vibration is still there.
I take it back for them to check out, and they said, "Your cv axle is busted, that's probably causing the vibration. Also, you need an alignment."
So I get an alignment, a new high quality cv axle installed, along with new rear brakes (calipers, rotors, and pads; the fronts were all fine), new motor mount, and some other miscellaneous stuff.
Vibration is still there.
So I take it to a different shop, tell them my problem, and they said, "It sounds like a wheel balancing issue, but we'll make sure none of your wheels are out of round or anything too."
So they balance all the wheels and give me a call. "They were all balanced fine, so we're not charging you for what we did."
I say, "So what is the problem?"
He said, "Well, you lowered the thing, so that messes stuff up. Honestly, I can't pinpoint what's causing it."
I asked, "So what do I do now?"
To which he replied, "Live with it."
I can't live with this, as I drive about 3 hours every day on the highway. It's extremely annoying, and I'm afraid it's abnormally wearing my new tires, and who knows what else.
What's left to do??
#2
Is your car dropped? If so then i would say it could be a camber or toe issue. My steering whell vibrates a little bit after i hit 60 mph but i just try to ignore it.
Also, are all of your wheel lugs torqued correctly, b/c sometimes shops just use an airgun to put them on quick instead of doing them by hand or with torque sticks. The only other thing that i could possibly think of would be power steering issue(maybe due for a flush), although that is really just a guess.
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#4
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have you checked your front shocks struts?
Toe, camber and caster WILL NOT make a car shake, it will only make it pull and wear tires unevenly.
to me it sounds like a bad tire or a bent rim, install your back tires in the front and see if that helps any.
I have seen brand new tires intalled wrong on a rim that will balance perfectly and make a car shake.
Toe, camber and caster WILL NOT make a car shake, it will only make it pull and wear tires unevenly.
to me it sounds like a bad tire or a bent rim, install your back tires in the front and see if that helps any.
I have seen brand new tires intalled wrong on a rim that will balance perfectly and make a car shake.
#5
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Hey guys, I just joined the forum.
I have had the exact same vibration issues with my '97 3.0CL. I will explain my story and maybe you can learn from my approach.
Here are a couple things to try. Go buy a Dial indicator that measures in thousands of an inch. Aka 20 thou (0.020 inches). You can get one at any auto shop for about $30 i think. You should also invest in an adjustable base with a magnet and an anvil to stop the unit from shifting and moving.
Because all vibration can be amplified from the hub out, ex: 2 thou can be amplified to 50 thou when it reaches your tire tread.
Because they said your brakes were fine doesnt mean anything. Measure the runout of your brake rotors at the outter most edge. This should not exceed 5 thou, and if they are brand new rotors, 2 thou. If that run out is higher, get new brakes under warranty.
Also, measure the lateral runout of your wheels. This can be done at the lip of the wheel. Depending how old your wheels are and how bad your roads are, it can be hard on your wheels. Lateral runout should not exceed 20 thou, ESPECIALLY on a macpherson strut set up like all acuras.
While the car is up on the jack, measure radial and lateral runout of your tires. Assuming your wheels are in decent shape these values should not exceed 35 thou.
Values will be higher and lower depending on how well that lateral shift has transfered through your parts.
Talk to your mechanic and provide the numbers and some research. They can never refute your obvious hard work.
Basicly, I went through hell trying to get my vibration sorted out and I am still working on wheel warranty crap. The best thing you can do is provide numbers. I hope this helps
. The best work that can be done to your car can only be done by you. If you have any questions PM me.
Cheers
I have had the exact same vibration issues with my '97 3.0CL. I will explain my story and maybe you can learn from my approach.
Here are a couple things to try. Go buy a Dial indicator that measures in thousands of an inch. Aka 20 thou (0.020 inches). You can get one at any auto shop for about $30 i think. You should also invest in an adjustable base with a magnet and an anvil to stop the unit from shifting and moving.
Because all vibration can be amplified from the hub out, ex: 2 thou can be amplified to 50 thou when it reaches your tire tread.
Because they said your brakes were fine doesnt mean anything. Measure the runout of your brake rotors at the outter most edge. This should not exceed 5 thou, and if they are brand new rotors, 2 thou. If that run out is higher, get new brakes under warranty.
Also, measure the lateral runout of your wheels. This can be done at the lip of the wheel. Depending how old your wheels are and how bad your roads are, it can be hard on your wheels. Lateral runout should not exceed 20 thou, ESPECIALLY on a macpherson strut set up like all acuras.
While the car is up on the jack, measure radial and lateral runout of your tires. Assuming your wheels are in decent shape these values should not exceed 35 thou.
Values will be higher and lower depending on how well that lateral shift has transfered through your parts.
Talk to your mechanic and provide the numbers and some research. They can never refute your obvious hard work.
Basicly, I went through hell trying to get my vibration sorted out and I am still working on wheel warranty crap. The best thing you can do is provide numbers. I hope this helps
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