I've got a 1997 3.0 with 75,000. It pulls a bit but I drive it everyday without issues. These estimates were made about 2,000-3,000 miles ago because I couldn't afford anything then. I'm researching all of this but there's seems to be too many variables and foreign terminology for me to really figure out if it's legit. I would appreciate any help and advice. How necessary are these repairs? Are they common for my car? Are they priced fairly? I really really need new tires, so he said to do the stabilizer bar/bushing repair and then get new tires. This is in northern Illinois.

Remove and replace stabilizer bar end link and bushing- $257.93
Remove and replace steering column- $690.92
Oil pressure sender or switch remove and replace- $130.50
Axle shaft boot remove and replace - $629.99

A link to the papers - https://imgur.com/a/pMEIz
Many thanks. Any input would help as my google searches aren't providing results.

hello fellow 3.0 owner, you will have a hard time finding anything on the 1st. gen. cl's, not much has been written and the people that know shit like to keep it to themselves unless your car knowlage is that of a caliber they approve but if that was the case people wouldnt ask questions, lol. no fret my friend ill try and help. also the susspensions for our cars are compatable with the 94 - 97 honda accord.

1st- you are right to be sceptical, mechanics pay their bills by you paying your's. most over charge or fix stuff thats not the problem. not all are bad there are good one's.

2nd- im not there to look at the car but by the sounds of it tire wear and a little pull is your problem?? if your lucky its just the worn tires causeing the pull but usually a pull and tire wear is worn susspension parts but im not sure why your mechanic requests the steering column and if worn tires and pull is the problem id ask why the oil pressue sending unit?? but again, im not there, maby he found something.

3rd- lets say the mechanic is correct in his diagnosis that seem like WAY TO FUCKING MUCH!! pardon the bomb but my god. to go into auto parts plus and buy left and right swaybar end links it would cost $60 so he's saying it will be 2 hours at $100 per hour, fak mang honda/acura dealer charges $100 per hour. took me 1 1/2 hour's to do it myself. and a steering colomn take little over an hour to do so he's charging like $500 for the column, i dont know if this is reasonable but it WILL be used, you could check e-bay or wreachers?
$130 for the sender unit means its a cheep CHEEP one from china cause he's making $100 for the labour. to get the old boot off it can be some time but you can buy kits on e-bay or jegs that let you cut the old one off and zip tie a new on (with grease), the kits are like $40, you CAN do this.

again, its just my assesment and the mechanic might be right but still,... to high $$$ to fix, go to acura it your dropping that $$$$ at least they wash the car befor you get it.

p.s.- bad ball joints are the most common tire eaters and susspension pullers.

def get a second opinion...and never go back there again

^yup!

dont go there. not much on our cars go bad. jus sayin lol egr valve here and there will need a cleanin but other than that motors are good. only thing suspension wise is the ball joints. then they can cause other problems.

yup, the e.g.r. ports plug and the throttle body and intake have to come off just to clean with a $10 can of cleaner , but dont forget the transmissions can chew themselves up good, window motor acctuators arnt designed to handle the heavy window's, a.b.s. sensors go all the time, the a.b.s. unit itself has priming/leaking issues and the ignition switches can give headaches. other than these problems a VERY solid car yes.

dont get me wrong i love my cl more than any of the variouse vehicals ive owned but they are not without their faults.

every car has its flaws. the wondow motors in mine are slow but tolerable. breaking 2 ball joints doing 40 mph is what almost got me to sell it. my abs is poo and i feel sometimes i cant stop in time. but i also know the reasoning so it will be fixed soon ehough.

I have done all of my suspension, axles, timing, my self it does not take much to do if you have some mechanical knowledge. Like righty tightly lefty loosely. But you must have the right tools for the job. And a bit of patients. O would not try to do everything at once. Do the axles and stabelizer. The most you should really need for that is an axle nut socket and a good pry bar.
Why do you have to replace the steering column?

your b-joints broke because some1 was cornering the piss out of the cl and hitting every pot hot in sight so they wore and broke, that or they were replaced with $20 e-bay chinese b-joints cause the b-joints have normal if not good wear tolerances on the cl's, the v6 is a little front heavy so they will wear a little quicker but my friend i understand every car has prob's, ive been stressing that shit in all my posts as well the FACT that the cl's are great cars but the individual i was posting to just wanst being realistic to the problems of the cl's and i was pointing out that REAL faults of the cl's.

as for the abs, i concur, mine is shit thats why i unhooked it and am in the process of seeing if 97 accord none abs will bolt right in.