Changes in the making.
#162
Camber kit because my tires are wearing hardcore. Even its not completely correct, I wanted to get it to the most corrected camber. Apparently though, I need to replace my rack and pinion because my tie rod boots are torn....I'm guessing thats where all the power steering fluid has been going.
- RemieGino14 -
#164
I figured if our suspension are from 94-97 Accord, I assumed so are the strut bars, LCAs, UCAs, etc.
Camber kit because my tires are wearing hardcore. Even its not completely correct, I wanted to get it to the most corrected camber. Apparently though, I need to replace my rack and pinion because my tie rod boots are torn....I'm guessing thats where all the power steering fluid has been going.
- RemieGino14 -
Camber kit because my tires are wearing hardcore. Even its not completely correct, I wanted to get it to the most corrected camber. Apparently though, I need to replace my rack and pinion because my tie rod boots are torn....I'm guessing thats where all the power steering fluid has been going.
- RemieGino14 -
No, you don't need a camber kit. You need alignment get your toe set to 0. Camber doesn't really matter it's big money gimche.
#165
- RemieGino14 -
#169
#171
So like some guy that has a red Prelude was telling me to get Tokicos instead of Function and Forms. Said they were crap...even though half of you guys have gone with it and loved it. Lol I'm looking to be low low, not just low.
- RemieGino14 -
- RemieGino14 -
#173
if you search enough you will find someone badmouth every conceivable suspension setup available...it comes down to your personal goals and priorities. just do ur own research and to hell with the opinions...listening to others will only make u disappointed in the end when it comes to suspension, i kno bc i did that on my last car
#175
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From: ShitsBurgh
if you search enough you will find someone badmouth every conceivable suspension setup available...it comes down to your personal goals and priorities. just do ur own research and to hell with the opinions...listening to others will only make u disappointed in the end when it comes to suspension, i kno bc i did that on my last car
If his prelude friend is talking about tokico coils I'm assuming he means the illuminas
#176
#179
hmm, i heard so many cases of the blues blowing. I think a lot of those guys ran springs that gave a pretty big drop
#182
So before I buy the F2 Type 1 this week, just need some confirmations.
- I'm suppose to get the 94-97 Accords right?
- Anything I should be aware of before I drop them in? (Such as camber wear on the tires, needing another set of tires)
- Am I gonna need some time of UCAs and LCAs?
- Which Strut bars do you recommend?
Yeah just a bunch of questions that crossed my mind before I came up with the money to get the coilovers.
- RemieGino14 -
- I'm suppose to get the 94-97 Accords right?
- Anything I should be aware of before I drop them in? (Such as camber wear on the tires, needing another set of tires)
- Am I gonna need some time of UCAs and LCAs?
- Which Strut bars do you recommend?
Yeah just a bunch of questions that crossed my mind before I came up with the money to get the coilovers.
- RemieGino14 -
#183
- I'm suppose to get the 94-97 Accords right? Correct
- Anything I should be aware of before I drop them in? (Such as camber wear on the tires, needing another set of tires) This will all depend on how much you drop the car at each corner. Your first line of attack after installing the coilovers and dropping the car to your desired height is to go to an alignment shop (try a Firestone if they have one near you...something like 70 bucks for lifetime free alignments) and get your alignment specs. From there you can decide on what camber kits you want to order, if any. Toe is the true killer of tires, though...not camber. Take this from someone who runs -3+ up front and almost -5 camber out back for years now.
- Am I gonna need some time of UCAs and LCAs? UCA's are only for people running insane hella flush bosozuku camber with insane rim widths...giving them the ability to run a lot more negative camber than is possible by naturally dropping the car to help clear fenders. I doubt you will have any of these issues.
LCA's are just extra 'bling' and not at all necessary. They're a nice rear visual touch, but the mounting points on our cars do not give them near the same performance benefits as other car suspension designs. That being said, I will probably be buying them 24k plated from FatFourCustoms lol
- Which Strut bars do you recommend? I may be biased, but I love my FatFourCustoms strut bar. It's the only 3-point bar available for our cars...but some people use Cusco and are happy with them. IMO unless it's 3-point like the stock bar, I don't think you're really reaping the full benefits. You'd be better off buying front and rear ST sway bars...those are what are really going to make you feel good going around turns
good luck man
- Anything I should be aware of before I drop them in? (Such as camber wear on the tires, needing another set of tires) This will all depend on how much you drop the car at each corner. Your first line of attack after installing the coilovers and dropping the car to your desired height is to go to an alignment shop (try a Firestone if they have one near you...something like 70 bucks for lifetime free alignments) and get your alignment specs. From there you can decide on what camber kits you want to order, if any. Toe is the true killer of tires, though...not camber. Take this from someone who runs -3+ up front and almost -5 camber out back for years now.
- Am I gonna need some time of UCAs and LCAs? UCA's are only for people running insane hella flush bosozuku camber with insane rim widths...giving them the ability to run a lot more negative camber than is possible by naturally dropping the car to help clear fenders. I doubt you will have any of these issues.
LCA's are just extra 'bling' and not at all necessary. They're a nice rear visual touch, but the mounting points on our cars do not give them near the same performance benefits as other car suspension designs. That being said, I will probably be buying them 24k plated from FatFourCustoms lol
- Which Strut bars do you recommend? I may be biased, but I love my FatFourCustoms strut bar. It's the only 3-point bar available for our cars...but some people use Cusco and are happy with them. IMO unless it's 3-point like the stock bar, I don't think you're really reaping the full benefits. You'd be better off buying front and rear ST sway bars...those are what are really going to make you feel good going around turns
good luck man
#184
Well it says 90 - 97 Accord (CB/CD-6)....just wanted to make sure I'm getting the correct set.
Thought Firestone was a bad company? Lol. As for alignments, I would do it at my school, but I don't want any of the students knowing I'm dropping F2s on my car and having them install it while I'm in class...I don't feel safe with them doing it (When they installed my springs, they told me I needed a new CV-Axle....something about them they always break in my car...such as my Rack and pinion tie rod boots which are ripped on both sides. -_-) I want to be low...atleast lower then where I'm at right now. Just worried if the tires is gonna be rubbing on something which is why I was asking if I need to run smaller sidewall tires (45, maybe 40) or just buy new set of rims and tires.
Oh ok, was only asking cause I've never been this low before...just wanted to be cautious.
Not gonna like, but I like color candy LCAs for looks...but I guess thats ricey, I might pass that thought up.
What I'm main concerned about is if I'm gonna need this if I go even more lowered? Like is it mandatory so that nothing breaks down if I slap them on? Only reason I'm asking is just to be safe. I already hear this clunking sound (Might be my CAI not being strapped down) but all in all, just want to have a safe drop, thats all. Lol.
Kinda hyped to get them, I'll take pictures when I get the box.
- RemieGino14 -
- Anything I should be aware of before I drop them in? (Such as camber wear on the tires, needing another set of tires) This will all depend on how much you drop the car at each corner. Your first line of attack after installing the coilovers and dropping the car to your desired height is to go to an alignment shop (try a Firestone if they have one near you...something like 70 bucks for lifetime free alignments) and get your alignment specs. From there you can decide on what camber kits you want to order, if any. Toe is the true killer of tires, though...not camber. Take this from someone who runs -3+ up front and almost -5 camber out back for years now.
- Am I gonna need some type of UCAs and LCAs? UCA's are only for people running insane hella flush bosozuku camber with insane rim widths...giving them the ability to run a lot more negative camber than is possible by naturally dropping the car to help clear fenders. I doubt you will have any of these issues.
LCA's are just extra 'bling' and not at all necessary. They're a nice rear visual touch, but the mounting points on our cars do not give them near the same performance benefits as other car suspension designs. That being said, I will probably be buying them 24k plated from FatFourCustoms lol
- Which Strut bars do you recommend? I may be biased, but I love my FatFourCustoms strut bar. It's the only 3-point bar available for our cars...but some people use Cusco and are happy with them. IMO unless it's 3-point like the stock bar, I don't think you're really reaping the full benefits. You'd be better off buying front and rear ST sway bars...those are what are really going to make you feel good going around turns
good luck man
good luck man
Kinda hyped to get them, I'll take pictures when I get the box.
- RemieGino14 -
#185
All the things you listed are purely optional upgrades. Strut bars are purely aftermarket performance upgrades and will not improve your safety whatsoever.
The clunking you are hearing right now is quite possibly your cv axle. They will start thudding/clunking proportionally to your vehicle's speed once they have leaked enough grease. I'd suggest you replace your ripped axles first before dropping your car...or at the same time. Since you're already going to be down there, now would be the best time to address the 'real' safety concerns, which are any worn OEM suspension components.
The clunking you are hearing right now is quite possibly your cv axle. They will start thudding/clunking proportionally to your vehicle's speed once they have leaked enough grease. I'd suggest you replace your ripped axles first before dropping your car...or at the same time. Since you're already going to be down there, now would be the best time to address the 'real' safety concerns, which are any worn OEM suspension components.
#186
All the things you listed are purely optional upgrades. Strut bars are purely aftermarket performance upgrades and will not improve your safety whatsoever.
The clunking you are hearing right now is quite possibly your cv axle. They will start thudding/clunking proportionally to your vehicle's speed once they have leaked enough grease. I'd suggest you replace your ripped axles first before dropping your car...or at the same time. Since you're already going to be down there, now would be the best time to address the 'real' safety concerns, which are any worn OEM suspension components.
The clunking you are hearing right now is quite possibly your cv axle. They will start thudding/clunking proportionally to your vehicle's speed once they have leaked enough grease. I'd suggest you replace your ripped axles first before dropping your car...or at the same time. Since you're already going to be down there, now would be the best time to address the 'real' safety concerns, which are any worn OEM suspension components.
- RemieGino14 -
#188
#192
you heard me... being lowered us hassle!!!
hmm, i beg to differ. Get ready to go slow out of your driveway. Get ready to go slow over bumps. Get ready to scrap the bottom of the frame. Get ready to pay the cost of being lowered.
hmm, i beg to differ. Get ready to go slow out of your driveway. Get ready to go slow over bumps. Get ready to scrap the bottom of the frame. Get ready to pay the cost of being lowered.
#193
- RemieGino14 -
#196
i scrape front lip all the time. you just cant be scared to have to work on your car a little. but totally worth the work/ erratic driving.. haha in this hick where im going to school, most roads/ entry's are ideal for trucks.. but i make it just fine...
#197
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From: ShitsBurgh
I definitely go slow out of my driveway, and enter/exit on a certain angle. Also, my last driveway I cracked my radiator pulling out of my driveway and dragged frame, but it's really in just being aware of your surroundings. Shit I hit a raised manhole cover when I was stock height too It's all in how you drive and what you encounter when you drive