Iagent

Just thought this would be helpful to explain the process of seperating the hub without presses or pullers. I bought the Matco puller, but this would probably have worked for me.
The You-Tube video was something I stumbled across a while back.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xIUAMl-oRQ

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

nice, I may need this when I do my hub conversion to the 99 hubs I have

Iagent

Personally, I do not understand why anyone would consider a conversion. I went 140K miles before changing rotors, and really doubt that I will see another 140K.

97'CL2.2

good info here...looking into doing the rotors soon and this really helps...thanks!

Iagent

Ask any questions you may have. I am no expert, but will help if I can. It's not a bad job to do if you have the tools.

97'CL2.2

im planning on using the air chisel method...i was wondering if you need "hardened metal" bolts to chisel on like he does in the vid. you dont happen to know the size (length/pitch) of the four bolts that hold the bearing assy to the knuckle do you?

Eband27

Thats what i did. I tried everything from hitting with a HUGE hammer, to the air hammer on the bolts... the only way it worked was with a chisel end air hammer between where the hub meets the knucle, arround the splash shield!

97'CL2.2

just finished installing new rotors using this method...worked like a charm...the hub/bearing assy separated from the knuckle surprisingly easy.. whoever had it apart before me had the forethought to put anti seize on almost everything...making the job way easier.

Eband27

thats what i did, i put anti seize on everything before installing it.

Right now i'm stuck with my rear shocks... the lower bolt that holds it got seized in the bushing.. so when i unscrewed it, it fucking ripped the bushing... but the bolt still holds the shock in place... i have to cut the bolt, and somehow replace that darn bushing!!!!

Iagent

Been there in a bad way (see my Avatar as that's the metal I had to cut). I ordered new bushings and bolts, and the work was well worth the new springs and shocks.

DaInFaMMuS1

wow very informative video. wish i had it when i was doing the brakes on 2 cb7 accords lol.

OttaWacK

Hi guys,

Because he took the entire knuckle off, do you need to get the wheel alignment done???

My rotors feel warped, but have a bad case of cementite instead. I need to get this done soon, but I dont want a shop to do it cause they fucked up bad the last time they did my brakes.

Thanks for the response.

97'CL2.2

my alignment is just as straight as it was before doing the brakes

OttaWacK

^^ excellent, thanks for the reply

Eband27

U can't mess up the alignment if your taking out the knucle.. Ur not touching the tie-rod and the suspension...

Ralphieboi

Another way ive seen these Rotors removed was with a Sliding Hammer (best deal at Habor freight). which I will be trying out pretty soon cuz my f*@king rotors have warp twice in less than a year! and i used regular brembo rotor the last time and still warped.

j5barney

Thanks, this was great and helped me on something I never would have tried on my own. Keep up the good work.

derosee

Good video.

Blazin Si

You can change your rotors in 1/10th the time using a slide hammer. It literally takes less than 30 minutes per side.

65 Fury Convert

Thanks for the video - changing out these rotors is a pain in the arse! I'm elbow deep into this project right now and this is definately going to help.

65 Fury Convert

I'm owned my CL since new and it has 200K miles on it and this is the first time I've had to replace the rotors. I'm pretty sure this will also be the last time these rotors are replaced.

65 Fury Convert

BTW - anyone know the size of the axle nut?

97'CL2.2

36mm i believe

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

it's either 36 or 33, can't remember

65 Fury Convert

Parts are ordered - Advanced Auto Parts had a 20% off deal going for ordering online and free shipping so I'll be finishing this project next weekend.

65 Fury Convert

BTW I'm going to go ahead and replace the wheel bearings while I'm in there.

65 Fury Convert

**UPDATE**

Wow what a MAJOR ordeal! This car fought me every step of the way! So the car has a lot of miles - almost 200K miles - and has lived in a salty Midwestern climate its entire life, so I'm not totally surprised but boy what a fight.

So, taking the drivers side off went well for the most part. As Iagent said above the right tools make a big difference. I couldn't have done mine without a 1/2" impact gun. Also, 6 point sockets were required for mine. Case in point, I had everything off the car, it was all coming apart slowly but well enough. I'm taking off the 4 x 14mm bolts that hold the lug nut plate on and the first 3 came off no problemo. 3rd one strips on me using my 12 point socket. Damn! Off to Sears and a good 45 minutes waisted for a 6 point 14mm socket. Tried it and nope too late - it was too stripped to get it off with the 6 point. Tried drilling it out and wasted a good hour and a half dozen drill bits. Now I'm really stuck. I need a torch to cut the bolt head off. Fortunately a freind that lives close by was home with a torch. We mig welded a bolt onto the stripped bolt and used a torch for heat and his impact gun to get the bolt off. Success!

The method of using hardened bolts to run the hub off worked well - FYI though the bolt threads were trashed after doing the drivers side so plan on having extras ready for the passenger side (you can always return them later if not needed).

My bearing case separated, no biggy I was replacing it anyway. The bearing and the hub didn't look bad but I was in there anyway. For comparison though the grease in the new one bearing was clear, the grease in the old one black.

It all went back together okay. The lower balljoint just wants to spin when I'm trying to tighten the bolt even with the weight of the car on it - no biggie though. But compared to the passenger side the drivers side was a walk in the park. More to come on that as I am waiting to get a cutting wheel from a freind to cut off a lug nut stud...argghhh....


Cliff notes:
This job was a pain in the arse for me! I cursed at my car and asked it if it just didn't want to be fixed and wanted to go to the junk yard! If you are glutton for punishment and too cheap to pay someone to do this job like me, have a good impact wrench and 6 point sockets and hopefully freinds with torches, cutting wheels, and mig welders.

TAco23

^^^^ looking back on this job you just did. Would you have just did the rotor/hub conversion to a 98 to make it rotor over hub??

65 Fury Convert

I don't want to do this again on this car - maybe next time haha....I take it you're considering the conversion? If it doesn't cost a lot I'd do it.

97'CL2.2

mine werent that corroded..everything came apart rather well...the only problem i had was cracked axle boots ab a month after the job. when you take the knuckle off it stresses the 13 yr old ruber on the boots and mine ended up cracking. if your car has low miles id consider doing the rotor over hub conversion...

Eband27

For the lower (or in fact, upper ball-joint), when it starts to spin when ur try to screw it, u need to squeeze the two parts together real hard, and then put the nut on. I an adjustable pipe wrench, it works really good. With one hand you apply as much force as u can squeezing the knuckle and control arm, and the with the other hand, you use a ratchet to tighten that nut, once its tight enough, u can let get of the pipe wrench and torque the nut to specs.

purple3.0haze

I just did this job on my 97 3.0. HOLY SHIT, it's been 3 days with no shower n my back is killing me. Wound up replacing a CV boot (used a split boot becuase the CV had JUST torn as evidenced by the abundance of Grease all over EVERYTHING.) did brakes, rotors, & pads. Dropped both steering knuckles n Used the hammering in the bolts method to separate the captive rotor. Wire wheeled EVERYTHING clean. Painted the rim where it mates to the hub. Then i realized we had messed up the threads on the wheel studs so i had to go out and buy another tap & die set to re cut the studs, n needed 4 new lug nuts Rotated tires, n double checked everything was torqued to spec, then bled the brakes. Holy shit tho , next car i buy thats the first thing i'm checking never rolling on captive rotors again.