New head unit with Factory BOSE??????
 

I did a few searches on installing new head units and have seen many people say they can either use the factory amp with a new head unit or bypass the bose amp very easily, but nobody ever explains how to do this. I found a few pictures of factory radio harness, but still dont see a wire to trigger the factory amp. So i suppose my question is how, if you can, how can you power the factory amp with a new head unit, or how can you easily bypass the factory amp with out running new wires to every speaker? maybe im just being lazy because i dont want to take my car apart for just a few wires, just looking for the easiest possible way or a shortcut

If you want a new headunit with the Bose system, you're going to have to bypass that amp... I don't think anybody sucsessfuly wired the factory amp with the aftermarket headunit. I think 97BlackAckCL (might want to search) tried but it didn't work or something.

Im not looking for a new head unit with Bose built in, I have a new double din and im just looking to either hook up the amp to it or bypass it like i said people have said that they were successful in doing it before so i dont see how its impossible to do now i just dont know how to do it and thats my question all i need to know is HOW TO DO THE BYPASS OR HOW TO HOOK UP THE FACTORY AMP WITH A NEW RADIO

I tried triggering the bose amp on 2 different bose amps, never could get it to work. Members on here have, but I've bypassed both amps I worked on

Ok i understand theres no way to use the factory amp, now how do i go about bypassing the amp without running all new wires to each speaker? Thanks for the help i do appreciate it

there is the way to wire any deck to stock bose amp. when my friend had his 3.0 cl with bose he bought a sony deck and just went to some audio place and they wired it and it all worked nicely. i wish i would have bose system.

My friend just installed a new deck, 2000 watt amp, and 2 12"s in my cl... The regular bose speakers are still in there too... I asked him if he had to by-pass the amp and he surprisingly said no. The bose speakers are still wired up to the bose amp too and it sounds great.

Hmmm i am thinking of doing this to get better sound quality

This is from a 97 CL, should be the same for any 97 - 99.

Not liable if you burn your car down from using this (even though it is accurate).

Outputs from the amp (to the speakers):
+++++ ---- -
Front Left: White _____ Orange
Front Right: Yellow _____ Brown
Rear Left: Red _____ Green
Rear Right: Blue _____ Black

From the Deck:
+++++ ---- -
Front Left: Blue w/ Green stripe _____ Grey w/ Black
Front Right: Red w/ Green _____ Brown w/ Black
Rear Left: Blue w/ Yellow _____ White w/ Grey
Rear Right: Red w/ Yellow _____ Brown w/ White

Amp is by the rear pass tail light.

So if you plan to just straight up bypass it, you will take the Front Left wire from the deck and connect it to the Front Left output and do the same for all 4. Obviously you will have to cut them from the harness at the amp. That wire has quite a lot of slack, you can leave enough to reconnect the amp if you ever wanted to one day.

i have aftermarket stereo equipment installed and i still run my bose speakers and amp. i've wired up several headunits in many types of cars and have never had a problem until i did my own. what you need to buy is called an "OEM interface". this unit will allow you to still use your bose speakers and amplifier.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...mpaign=froogle

i am in no way affiliated with PAC nor sonicelectronix. Just using them as reference so you can see the unit.

that link is to show you one of the adapters you can buy. PAC ROEM-HON. you have a 99CL so you may need a different wiring harness. you can still use the PAC ROEM-HON, just need to cut off the Honda side adapter and replace it with the correct wiring harness (if in fact it is different on a 99 compared to a 97) The side that has cables with no end, is meant for your headunit adapter.

with this unit, you wire everything up using this unit as your wiring harness and that's it. it's as simple as that. there are 4 screws on the unit that allow you to tweak the volume on each individual speaker (FR, FL, RR, RL). i hooked up my headunit, tweaked it so they're loud enough and in tune with my subwoofer level. till this day, i haven't heard many systems with cleaner sound than my own (at low and high volumes) non-competition that is.

if you run into problems, let me know. i'll try to troubleshoot. both of my headunits gave me different problems when i hooked them up.

SONY one wouldn't play music out of the left speakers. It wasn't until I changed my fuse holder on the amp line that it started working again fine.. i have no idea why.. neither do any of my friends that are professional custom car audio installers

PANASONIC flipout gave me problems too. When on the AM/FM mode, speakers wouldnt' turn on, only sub. With a CD or DVD, it would work fine. I cut the amplifier wire on the wiring harness and attached it to my accessory line. Works like a charm ever since. Took me a day to figure that one out. Same thing.. professional installers still couldn't figure it out.. they asked me why i put up with "that piece of shit" and just don't buy an m3. hahaha. if only it were that easy

idk what the guys at circuit city did but from what i can tell thay just wired the HU into the existing harness in the dash. And with my pioneers and NO sub, i can't keep the rear view still. idt they bypassed the amp and i know that i have one, i was looking at it the other day

I tried just simply hooking up the amp turnon with the last 3.0 I did. I didn't have time to check for what the real turnon wire is though. Next time I get a 3.0 in the shop I will find out how to integrate the factory amp.

The amp turn-on should work, we used it at Circuit Shitty for the most part. either that or at the factory amp, just splice the inputs directly into the outputs. bypass the amp in a sense. you can find out which speaker is which by taking a 9 volt battery and attacthing wire leads to each terminal. place one wire on one suspected speaker wire and LIGHTLY TAP the other suspected one, the speaker should make a popping noise indicating its location.

the first time I read up on this about 5 years ago, there were alot of people who had different solutions for this problem, with different wiring colors. I ended up running new wires to each location since my old setup used after market speakers all around. That was a pain in the ass. The car has been put to stock while my sister used and trashed the car. When I went to retrieve my car I needed to drive for 12 hours back home and there was no way I was driving back without the use of my ipod. I replaced the deck with a pioneer unit simply wired the blue/white from the deck to the blue and blue/white on the adapter harness. Everything worked fine. And yes my system is a bose. As far as people giving wiring colors it could be helpful for a guide but I wouldn't swear by it. When car are in the manufacturing process, if they run out of one wire color, they aren't gonna stop the assembly line to replace that one wire. They'll simply feed whatever the have on the assembly already. I know this because I used to work as a professional and certified installer. I have done basic work to full custom fiber glass work.

Sorry so long.

i just put a new one in mine and after seeing this and trying to find how to bypass it.. just hooked the blue remote wire to the blue on the harnes and it works great.

Spazzy, I purchased the PAC Interface and plugged it all in and I still have no sound. I have a 97 CL, and a JVC KD A605 HD. I'm lost on what to do, the unit powers up and everything but can't get sound out of the speakers.

when I wired my headunit in I didn't have any problems at all getting sound out of the factory speakers. I just used one of those adapter wiring harnesses and hooked all the wires from the headunit to it and plugged it in and they all worked no problem

Sounds like you have the bose amp in the trunk, you have to trigger the amp to come on, I just bypassed mine all together

you didn't have the bose amp then

dekr510
Just get a metra 701720 harness or equiv.
wire all speakers color to color
Red acc. to red
Yellow batt. to yellow
Black ground to black
Most important is the blue/white stripe, this wire turns on the bose amp
Connect the blue/white to the aftermarket remote wire, it may also be blue/white
Some it may be blue.
I had my pioneer on the bose system for several months til I installed all my amps subs
and new speakers.
Be careful on how lound you play your new radio because you will be putting much more voltage on the amps input than the oem radio was.
Hope this helps
Jim

all I know is it had bose speakers and a factory bose radio in the car, not sure about any amp But I don't guess it doesn't if you say so since I had no problems hooking it up at all

Just wanted to pass on a little information. I was installing the steering wheel controls. I read the manual to see what wires were what and on the back of my kenwood there is a pink wire goes to "ext.amp.cont" (according to the manual) that pink wire is hooked to the "factory Bose amp". I unhooked that "pink" wire and no sound except from my subs, I hooked it back up and then all the speakers played again. So as I said above all I did was hook up my aftermarket stereo like it was supposed to be hooked up and I didn't have to unhook my factory bose amp

stereo problems
 

I have replaced my factory stereo with an after market stereo and everything is hooked up right but I don't have sound... The factory stereo I had also had a security feature in it that I had to put a code in with... Hour would I go about getting sound in my after market stereo

Mdx
 

I did the same thing but mine is making this interference noise I can't say a whine but some kind of noise I have no amp hooked up

It's a ground loop, check your head unit grounds

My radio has no sound
 

I don't have the color wires you are telling me to use on my 99 acura cl 3.0