Yellow Faded Headlights???? There is a cure!!!
#1
Yellow Faded Headlights???? There is a cure!!!
After having painted my car and color sanding and buffing, I tried it on my driver's side headlight and believe it or not, they are clear as if it were brand new.
What you will need are the following items.
600 grit wet-able sandpaper
1000 grit wet-able sandpaper
1500 grit wet-able sandpaper
3M rubbing compound
1400-1700RPM polisher
Wool Bonnet
All sanding that is done must be done by wet sanding. So you must soak the sandpaper in a bucket of water and let it marinate in there for about 15 minutes. Cut each type of the sandpaper into thirds then take one of each and fold that into thirds. Then put those three pieces into the bucket of water, go take a coffee (or beer) break and return in 15 minutes.
Now, start off with the 600 grit if there is heavy buildup or if you want the job done faster if not then start with the 1000 grit. But faster may sacrifice quality. Splash some water onto the headlight and sand down all the buildup (the yellow stuff) and until the headlight's lens is all blurred with rather visible scratches from the sanding, don't worry here, no you didn't just @$&#*$-up the headlights.
After the 600 (or 1000) move on to the next grit and sand until you notice that the scratches become finer. If the fine scratches are consistent throughout the headlight then move to the next grit. Sanding with 1500 grit should show no scratches only that the headlight will still be blurred. No worry still, polishing will take it out.
Now it's on to the buffing/polishing. Well, of course clean the headlight with water and wipe it dry. Now take the rubbing compound and dab some across the headlight. Take the buffer with the wool bonnet attached and without turning it on just spread the rubbing compound. Now start up the buffer and start buffing away in a side to side motion going from top down. As the buffing continues and as the compound starts drying you'll notice the headlight becoming smoother and clear once again. Continue buffing until all instance of the compound has disappeared and stand back to be amazed!!!! It will look as good as new.
Despite what others may think of the yellowing in the inside...it is contrary to that as it is buildup on the outside.
Hope this tutorial helps you and saves you from having to purchase new headlights.
An entry level polisher which works marvelously is that from Sears. It is a Craftsman 4.5amp, sander/polisher with 2 variable speeds and comes with the wool bonnet. It costs $59.99.
The sandpaper would run you about $10 from any autoparts store and the compound is $6. So in total you would spend about $80 to have headlights as good as new than to spend $400 for a pair of brand new headlights.
Well, peace out, just sharing some invaluable experience I think that might help out some of you!!
What you will need are the following items.
600 grit wet-able sandpaper
1000 grit wet-able sandpaper
1500 grit wet-able sandpaper
3M rubbing compound
1400-1700RPM polisher
Wool Bonnet
All sanding that is done must be done by wet sanding. So you must soak the sandpaper in a bucket of water and let it marinate in there for about 15 minutes. Cut each type of the sandpaper into thirds then take one of each and fold that into thirds. Then put those three pieces into the bucket of water, go take a coffee (or beer) break and return in 15 minutes.
Now, start off with the 600 grit if there is heavy buildup or if you want the job done faster if not then start with the 1000 grit. But faster may sacrifice quality. Splash some water onto the headlight and sand down all the buildup (the yellow stuff) and until the headlight's lens is all blurred with rather visible scratches from the sanding, don't worry here, no you didn't just @$&#*$-up the headlights.
After the 600 (or 1000) move on to the next grit and sand until you notice that the scratches become finer. If the fine scratches are consistent throughout the headlight then move to the next grit. Sanding with 1500 grit should show no scratches only that the headlight will still be blurred. No worry still, polishing will take it out.
Now it's on to the buffing/polishing. Well, of course clean the headlight with water and wipe it dry. Now take the rubbing compound and dab some across the headlight. Take the buffer with the wool bonnet attached and without turning it on just spread the rubbing compound. Now start up the buffer and start buffing away in a side to side motion going from top down. As the buffing continues and as the compound starts drying you'll notice the headlight becoming smoother and clear once again. Continue buffing until all instance of the compound has disappeared and stand back to be amazed!!!! It will look as good as new.
Despite what others may think of the yellowing in the inside...it is contrary to that as it is buildup on the outside.
Hope this tutorial helps you and saves you from having to purchase new headlights.
An entry level polisher which works marvelously is that from Sears. It is a Craftsman 4.5amp, sander/polisher with 2 variable speeds and comes with the wool bonnet. It costs $59.99.
The sandpaper would run you about $10 from any autoparts store and the compound is $6. So in total you would spend about $80 to have headlights as good as new than to spend $400 for a pair of brand new headlights.
Well, peace out, just sharing some invaluable experience I think that might help out some of you!!
#3
Actually I've tried every chemical agent out there and none of them seem to work. And so I resorted to this. I've used everything from acetone to hydrochloric acid and none of it has ever worked. Whatever build up it is...it's tough. It may take a little work but I think it's worth it!!!!
#4
They also make 2000 grit wet/dry...
I'd start high & work your way down as some folks might not have really bad discoloration. You can always do a lower grit if it doesn't do the trick the first time around. I've also used RainX windshield polish for slight plastic oxidation, worked ok.
Worked on my old max.
I'd start high & work your way down as some folks might not have really bad discoloration. You can always do a lower grit if it doesn't do the trick the first time around. I've also used RainX windshield polish for slight plastic oxidation, worked ok.
Worked on my old max.
#7
I've realized that they do make 2000 grit wet/dry however with the buffing compound anything at 1500 grit or above it polishes out completely.
I mentioned to use 600 grit if it's really bad discoloration otherwise working from 1000 grit and then to 1500 grit. Working from top down may usually end up in having to polish more than once. Since you try doing 2000 then polish, ok not too good, so you go lower then polish, still not good, so you go lower to 1000 then after that back up to 1500 and then polish. More steps involved. But then it's up to the owner to discern how much discoloration there is. Either way as long as it's above 1500 grit the buffer will clean and smooth it out. So whichever way you go just make sure the last sandpaper used is 1500 grit or above.
I have a 97 and so I'd consider I had high discoloration.
I mentioned to use 600 grit if it's really bad discoloration otherwise working from 1000 grit and then to 1500 grit. Working from top down may usually end up in having to polish more than once. Since you try doing 2000 then polish, ok not too good, so you go lower then polish, still not good, so you go lower to 1000 then after that back up to 1500 and then polish. More steps involved. But then it's up to the owner to discern how much discoloration there is. Either way as long as it's above 1500 grit the buffer will clean and smooth it out. So whichever way you go just make sure the last sandpaper used is 1500 grit or above.
I have a 97 and so I'd consider I had high discoloration.
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#8
I was wondering how to take care of this i was about to try the exact same thing just as i would on paint scratches. Im glad to hear that you have good results. I think i may work on my car tomorrow and do this and repair tiny holes that are in my passenger side door panels in the vinyl. I was talking about this about a month or so ago.
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...ing+headlights
Did you take out your headlights to do this?
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...ing+headlights
Did you take out your headlights to do this?
#15
everyone should try it. it really works. i posted this almost a yr ago but i did not use a buffer, instead i used my two phytons (popeye size arms and tooth paste instead of the compound. i only spend four bucks on 3m 2000 grit and just went at it with that. by the time i was done i could not feel my arms, but the car looked a lot better. wel worth the time
#16
I just did this myself and the car looks WONDERFUL!!!!!
I had a polishing buffer and went to town on them. It didnt take very long, it actually took more time shopping for the items then it did to fix the headlights!!!!
Thanks AthalonXP!!!
I had a polishing buffer and went to town on them. It didnt take very long, it actually took more time shopping for the items then it did to fix the headlights!!!!
Thanks AthalonXP!!!
#17
It Worked
THANK YOU!!!
Did this by hand with foam sanding block. Used a drill for buffing [rubber covered with wool pad]. May not be the best results, but is way better than before. I can see the lamps again and it looks clear.
thank you so much for posting this!!!
Al F.
Did this by hand with foam sanding block. Used a drill for buffing [rubber covered with wool pad]. May not be the best results, but is way better than before. I can see the lamps again and it looks clear.
thank you so much for posting this!!!
Al F.
#20
I was reading about headlight polishing in the wash & wax forum the other day.
I think you can get a kit for like 50$ per light that should maintain the results forever basically.
#22
wow back from dead yea. But I did mine with some help from my budds high speed buffer and some specialk compound thats like $50 a bottle or something. They look like new and have stayed that way for quite a few months
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