Ok so I did the big rotor and dual piston swap everything worked out fine...IU will post details later...but now I need help with bleeding the brake system....this is what i did...

I swapped the rotors...replaced the caliper and also replaced the rubber/nylon brake line.....now when I bleed the system with the help of a friend I get good pressure when the engine is turned off...after getting good pressure and assuring that there are no bubbles appearing in the brake fluid during bleeding and if I start the engine and depress the brake if feels completely spongy I mean really really soft as if there is no pressure at all to the brake pedal.....I did this a couple of times but the same result...the moment i turn the ignition key and start the engine I lose complete pressure in the brake pedal....

Am i doing some thing wrong??? am i suppose to do some thing else???

pleases help...

JFK

 

How exactly are you bleeding brakes? You're not letting off the brake until your friend puts the cap back on, right? Nothing is leaking out of the system when you press on the pedal, correct?

The only time you should feel almost no pressure is if you left one of the bleed caps off somewhere.

 

You need a 5,000 dollar device that cycles the abs pump to get all the little bubbles out. Go to the dealer or a shop with a power bleeder

 

hi krafty,
How exactly are you bleeding brakes? You're not letting off the brake until your friend puts the cap back on, right? YES Nothing is leaking out of the system when you press on the pedal, correct? YES nothing is leaking

The only time you should feel almost no pressure is if you left one of the bleed caps off somewhere. nothing of that sort happening

I guess then I agree with purplehaze.....I might take it to pepboys...will they have this device that you talk about.....

 

You may know how to bleed brakes, but lets start from scratch. This method work for me and I bleed the brakes myself: from rear passenger to rear driver to front passenger to front driver
I...
- Filled the brake res full, sealed it
- connected a small hose/tube to the bleeder
- placed other end of hose/tube into a bottle 1/3 full of brake fluid
- opened bleeder
- turned car on
- pressed the brake pedal 25 times half way to the floor
- turned off car
- closed bleeder
- looked for bubbles in tube/hose
- and repeated the process for each consecutive brake untill no bubbles

*make sure the brake res does not empty
This whole process took me 1.25hours
btw the more you do this process the tighter the feel will get. Also the brake feel will get tighter as you drive.

 

Did you get a bleeder kit?

 

thankxr all your help guys.....I did a bobo......I followed the markings on the caliper and put the maked "L" on the left driver side & the one marked "R" on the right driver side....but I was wrong in doing so as this made the bleeder screw face down ward and this got the air trapped at the upper part of the caliper.....I guess the marking of L & R were from the prespective of standing in front of the car...got it towed to pepboys and they told be that the left and right side needs to be swaped so that the bleeder screw will face upwards and will help in removing thetrapped air...had to spend like $140 on labor to get this done by them,as AAA would not give me another tow free back to my house as they were charging me $55 or the return tow and pepboys $57 for the dignosis...so it didn't make sense to give all this money free and then go through the same ordeal to removing the caliper and shit...so just paid the bucks and also got a wheel alignmentl....so long story short...learned am important lesson on how to install the calipers even if the marking says other wise leraned a general rule of thumb...lol...look for the bleeder screw direction.....when I will post a detailed install on the big rotor & dual pistion caliper I will mention this so no one else goes through the same ordeal....BTW the brake's are awasome best mod ever..............