type of gas to use?
#1
type of gas to use?
maybe it was just psychological, but when i filled with the middle grade gas (as opposed to my normal fill of the crap gas), my cl ran a little faster. it's '97 2.2 . So i don't know, what gas should i use for my car?
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#8
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for the 1 millionth time, use 87 octane (regular) grade gas, its what the car was desinged to run on, anything else is a waste of money.
search if you want to hear that a few thousand more times
search if you want to hear that a few thousand more times
#11
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i know it's a good idea to use 87 on our cars, but what about on a car with mods, like cold air intake, headers, etc? Any change? ( i was reading to use 92 or 93 for cars with forced inducton. What's this?
#12
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I use 93, I feel that it burns cleaner, and gives out a bit more gas mileage. I've been using 93 for years.
#13
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ive been using 89 everytime i fill up and its been good to me but w/e you do stay with one octane cuz if you decide to go cheap and buy 87 afetr u used 93 or 89 your car will run shitty for a while cuz it was used to the higher octane
#16
Korean FIYAH!
So much false information on here.... it boggles the mind.
I'm looking at the ages of some of the posters... they haven't even taken basic chemistry yet, and it shows.
I'm looking at the ages of some of the posters... they haven't even taken basic chemistry yet, and it shows.
#17
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Originally Posted by 98 CL
i know it's a good idea to use 87 on our cars, but what about on a car with mods, like cold air intake, headers, etc? Any change? ( i was reading to use 92 or 93 for cars with forced inducton. What's this?
#18
Ok. 87 is fine for honda/acura engines everything will run the way its supposed to. 89 gas will enhance performance because the combustion will be slightly more powerful, therefore meaning that an increase in power will be made.... although its not always noticable. If you choose to run on 91,92,93 and so on gas you need to be aware of the fact that the explosion in the combustion camber will be more potent, that is the explosion will be hotter and more powerful. This is good for forced induction motors or high compression motors that are built to handle the added heat and pressure. A stock motor will be able to run on these higher octance gases, but will be at risk because of the more powerful and more importantly the hotter combustion. This can lead to premature wear of engine parts and can be more harmful than helpful. Hope that helps.
#19
Peace, Love & Acura
Newbies...
Originally Posted by weedahlong
wow, you guys aren't very tolerant of noobs in here. thanks for those that helped.
Hope you'll stick around, just read the threads and search. A lot of stuff has been covered... and you might come up with one they haven't heard.
#21
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#22
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Originally Posted by weedahlong
wow, you guys aren't very tolerant of noobs in here. thanks for those that helped.
#23
sweeeet, spanks fer the info guys. ill stick el cheapo gas . . . considering the insurance and car payments alone, not to mention food, books, costoflivinga ;fsdjkasf
nother question . . .
if i reverse, then put it back into drive, theres a weird gear jumbling sound . . same happens if i'm goin from neutral to drive. something i should get checked out? oh . .aaand, the breaks just started squeeking a little, i assume i need new break pads right? i had to get new rotors for my old volvo but i hope i dont' have to do that for this car since i detected the wear quicker.
nother question . . .
if i reverse, then put it back into drive, theres a weird gear jumbling sound . . same happens if i'm goin from neutral to drive. something i should get checked out? oh . .aaand, the breaks just started squeeking a little, i assume i need new break pads right? i had to get new rotors for my old volvo but i hope i dont' have to do that for this car since i detected the wear quicker.
#24
Most brake pads have a "squeal strip" or something like that will squeak, squeal, be annoying, whatever when the brake pads have been worn down to a certain point. Its put there to tell the driver the brake pads need to be replaced, so yeah soon you'll need to change your pads. Your rotors may be ok still, it all depends on how worn down they are, once they get worn down to a certain thickness they are deemed unusable. Usually they'll be fine and will need to be resurfaced rather than replaced.
Just a quick thing on the transmission. Im assuming its auto, cause that just makes sense( you said you put it in drive). That noise would be the sound of your transmission switching internally from one set of gears and bands to another. Basically, you either haven't changed your tranny fluid for a long time or your transmission is slowly dying. Either way have it checked out.
Just a quick thing on the transmission. Im assuming its auto, cause that just makes sense( you said you put it in drive). That noise would be the sound of your transmission switching internally from one set of gears and bands to another. Basically, you either haven't changed your tranny fluid for a long time or your transmission is slowly dying. Either way have it checked out.
#26
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its been dyno proven that 87 runs the best and on top of that its what the manual calls for. anyone that says they are benefiting from anthing else is a fucking moron. sorry to piss on anyones cornflakes here, but thats how it is and its been covered so many times that we should have a popup upon entering the forum that says "our cars use 87 octane ONLY!"
#27
Originally Posted by LCARUCA 97
its been dyno proven that 87 runs the best and on top of that its what the manual calls for. anyone that says they are benefiting from anthing else is a fucking moron. sorry to piss on anyones cornflakes here, but thats how it is and its been covered so many times that we should have a popup upon entering the forum that says "our cars use 87 octane ONLY!"
I will agree that a stock, unmodified engine might not benefit from a higher octance gas, but a modified engine will. And not to call you out or something, but if you do have dyno proof that 87 is better, please let me know. Im interested to see.
Originally Posted by LCARUCA 97
"our cars use 87 octane ONLY!"
#29
how handsome I am
Originally Posted by LCARUCA 97
sorry to piss on anyones cornflakes here
fuck man stop pissing on my fucking corn flakes I use 100 octane ALL THE TIME and I get at least 20 extra ponies from the cleaner fuel being sparked and running through everything.
-Alex
im a pathological liar
#30
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Originally Posted by LCARUCA 97
its been dyno proven that 87 runs the best and on top of that its what the manual calls for. anyone that says they are benefiting from anthing else is a fucking moron. sorry to piss on anyones cornflakes here, but thats how it is and its been covered so many times that we should have a popup upon entering the forum that says "our cars use 87 octane ONLY!"
In the manual it says to use at least 86 octane. That is all it says about recomended octane. Also, dyno runs are usually at WOT which I'm sure makes a difference. I would also like to see dyno proof. You should also take into account that not everyone lives in the same climate or altitude. Just throwing stuff out there...
#31
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http://www.royalpurple.com/tpr1/tpr1p1.html
http://autorepair.about.com/od/engin...hoctanegas.htm
you are supposed to use the lowest octane possible before knocking occurs. and bolt ons don't mean shit either. its about compression and timing. the lower the number of octane the more energy there is in the fuel. just do some reading and you will see. and if not just continue wasting your money.
http://autorepair.about.com/od/engin...hoctanegas.htm
you are supposed to use the lowest octane possible before knocking occurs. and bolt ons don't mean shit either. its about compression and timing. the lower the number of octane the more energy there is in the fuel. just do some reading and you will see. and if not just continue wasting your money.
#32
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Originally Posted by mongose99
Not to really argue, but the book also never mentions modifying your engine. Increased airflow and/or spark will require either more gas or a higher octane, otherwise you'll run lean. If honda/acura engine ran at maximum performance on 87 octance, then racers and builders would not use any other type...just 87. Its physics. Higher octance = more combustion.
I will agree that a stock, unmodified engine might not benefit from a higher octance gas, but a modified engine will. And not to call you out or something, but if you do have dyno proof that 87 is better, please let me know. Im interested to see.
This is the factory reccomendation based upon gas milage testing, engine life, and other standards. You can use other octanes. If you really think im wrong, please let me know your understanding on this topic. Im always open to learning.
I will agree that a stock, unmodified engine might not benefit from a higher octance gas, but a modified engine will. And not to call you out or something, but if you do have dyno proof that 87 is better, please let me know. Im interested to see.
This is the factory reccomendation based upon gas milage testing, engine life, and other standards. You can use other octanes. If you really think im wrong, please let me know your understanding on this topic. Im always open to learning.
#33
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Originally Posted by Motohip
Not to start an argument or anything, but...
In the manual it says to use at least 86 octane.
In the manual it says to use at least 86 octane.
#34
Peace, Love & Acura
Yes, definately check the transmission. These cars have week OEM factory transmissions. If you haven't stayed up on the fluid changes, you may have big trouble in little servos. And, if your transmission has started to slip... Forget about it... You are already too late.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#35
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Originally Posted by ajtcl
Yes, definately check the transmission. These cars have week OEM factory transmissions. If you haven't stayed up on the fluid changes, you may have big trouble in little servos. And, if your transmission has started to slip... Forget about it... You are already too late.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#37
Originally Posted by LCARUCA 97
http://www.royalpurple.com/tpr1/tpr1p1.html
http://autorepair.about.com/od/engin...hoctanegas.htm
you are supposed to use the lowest octane possible before knocking occurs. and bolt ons don't mean shit either. its about compression and timing. the lower the number of octane the more energy there is in the fuel. just do some reading and you will see. and if not just continue wasting your money.
http://autorepair.about.com/od/engin...hoctanegas.htm
you are supposed to use the lowest octane possible before knocking occurs. and bolt ons don't mean shit either. its about compression and timing. the lower the number of octane the more energy there is in the fuel. just do some reading and you will see. and if not just continue wasting your money.
#38
Peace, Love & Acura
Sorry guys, missed the second half... Oh, and piss works the same as beer in my corn flakes. FUCK IT. I'm gonna go for a lead-footed drive to the pump and fill up with 97, then poor in some fucking octain booster so my shit won't ever DESAL. JK
Peace... just lost my head or something. Still using 89 don't give a rat's ass about the price... just makes me feel "warm and cozy." And as I said, The Mistress was looking good and I just couldn't feed her that cheap fast food.
LOL
Peace... just lost my head or something. Still using 89 don't give a rat's ass about the price... just makes me feel "warm and cozy." And as I said, The Mistress was looking good and I just couldn't feed her that cheap fast food.
LOL
#40
Peace, Love & Acura
Honda ATF... every four oil changes, or once a year. Have it flushed, or do a drain and fill. It isn't hard to do, but why do it yourself. You still gotta get rid of that toxic-ass shit. There are roughly 15 quarts, if I remember correctly. Can be costly to do yourself.