To Those with Camber and Prokit
#1
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To Those with Camber and Prokit
I went to get an alignment today, and the guy said I need a camber kit before I get an alignment.
I already knew my camber was bad, but I thought he could align everything besides that and tell me what the camber was.
I asked him how I'm supposed to know how much correction is needed, and he said to check is 60 bucks.
Well, fuck that.
I know there are some of you here who have a prokit and needed a camber kit.
So, could you tell me what kind of camber adjustment you needed?
Thanks for helping me save 60 bucks
I already knew my camber was bad, but I thought he could align everything besides that and tell me what the camber was.
I asked him how I'm supposed to know how much correction is needed, and he said to check is 60 bucks.
Well, fuck that.
I know there are some of you here who have a prokit and needed a camber kit.
So, could you tell me what kind of camber adjustment you needed?
Thanks for helping me save 60 bucks
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#5
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That's what I read here, but further reading also proved that some did end up needing camber correction.
I've noticed that my wheels appear to have slight negative camber, and the inner tread has worn out faster than the rest of the tires.
These three facts, plus this guy (who says he does lowered hondas all the time) tell me I need a camber kit.
I guess I was unfortunate
So, any help?
EDIT: I understand most people didn't need a camber kit with the prokit, but some people here did.
Search and you will see.
My wheels appear visually to have negative camber.
My inner tread is worn out much more than the rest of the tires.
This guy was very honest and helpful and suggested I even buy the parts myself because it would be cheaper to not get them from him.
I've noticed that my wheels appear to have slight negative camber, and the inner tread has worn out faster than the rest of the tires.
These three facts, plus this guy (who says he does lowered hondas all the time) tell me I need a camber kit.
I guess I was unfortunate
![Sad](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/sad.gif)
So, any help?
EDIT: I understand most people didn't need a camber kit with the prokit, but some people here did.
Search and you will see.
My wheels appear visually to have negative camber.
My inner tread is worn out much more than the rest of the tires.
This guy was very honest and helpful and suggested I even buy the parts myself because it would be cheaper to not get them from him.
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#8
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Originally Posted by KLepTo
shit, if youre going to be getting a camber kit for PRO-KITS :gheylaugh: which shouldnt need them, you might as well dump the shit out of your car. Make use of them camber kits.
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#9
i want a pro kit REAL bad..but i KNOW some people need camber kits...thats why im holding off..but im almost ready to say F**K that and just buy em...ive been on the edge for weeks deciding on the kit...but then plus the new shocks and all else possibly cambers....why not go full coilovers...?although i've heard teins are to soft...man its a bitch to mod...I NEED A DROP!!
#10
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Yeah, not needing a camber kit was one of the reasons I decided to go with the prokit.
I wish I did just get some coilovers now that I know I need a camber kit, but what's done is done.
If I could sell my current prokit/agx setup, as well as my oem suspension and wheels, I would love to move on up and get the coilovers with that money.
But since I don't have money right now...
Anyone know about what kind of adjustment I'm going to need?
These camber kits all have different adjustment ranges, and I'd like to know which is most likely what I'll need.
That's where the prokitters with camber come in
I wish I did just get some coilovers now that I know I need a camber kit, but what's done is done.
If I could sell my current prokit/agx setup, as well as my oem suspension and wheels, I would love to move on up and get the coilovers with that money.
But since I don't have money right now...
Anyone know about what kind of adjustment I'm going to need?
These camber kits all have different adjustment ranges, and I'd like to know which is most likely what I'll need.
That's where the prokitters with camber come in
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#11
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I'm about to install a prokit and kyb agx shocks within the week. One of the main reasons why I'm going with the prokit is so I don't have to buy a camber kit. Someone having camber issues while riding Prokit isn't really what I wanted to hear right now.
Anyway, if some of us need camber correction and some of us don't, all while riding the same springs, then how can anyone give you accurate information about how much camber you will have from a Prokit?
The only thing that I can think of is that some people have put a Prokit made for the 2.x into the 3.0 and it lowered the car more. Or maybe the size of the wheel has an effect on camber, but I'm not really sure about that.
Anyway, if some of us need camber correction and some of us don't, all while riding the same springs, then how can anyone give you accurate information about how much camber you will have from a Prokit?
The only thing that I can think of is that some people have put a Prokit made for the 2.x into the 3.0 and it lowered the car more. Or maybe the size of the wheel has an effect on camber, but I'm not really sure about that.
#12
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Originally Posted by Blenz
Anyway, if some of us need camber correction and some of us don't, all while riding the same springs, then how can anyone give you accurate information about how much camber you will have from a Prokit?
The only thing that I can think of is that some people have put a Prokit made for the 2.x into the 3.0 and it lowered the car more. Or maybe the size of the wheel has an effect on camber, but I'm not really sure about that.
The only thing that I can think of is that some people have put a Prokit made for the 2.x into the 3.0 and it lowered the car more. Or maybe the size of the wheel has an effect on camber, but I'm not really sure about that.
I figure there can't be too much variation.
Who knows...
Maybe 3.0's are more likely to have camber issues since they are heavier?
I have the correct prokit (3.0) and 18" wheels, if that helps you at all...
I just came across this from the ingalls site:
"If you lower your vehicle 1 inch, you can expect a camber
change of approximately -.84 degrees
Lowering your vehicle 2 inches will change camber approximately -2.12 degrees.
Lowering your vehicle 3 inches will change camber approximately -3.86 degrees."
I understand these are just estimates, so does this sound about right to anyone?
I guess this can be answered by anyone with a drop and camber kit.
I'm no good at math.. can anyone figure what I'm looking at for a 1.5 inch drop (prokit/agx)?
#13
1999 CL3.0
Originally Posted by shnee420
I just came across this from the ingalls site:
"If you lower your vehicle 1 inch, you can expect a camber
change of approximately -.84 degrees
Lowering your vehicle 2 inches will change camber approximately -2.12 degrees.
Lowering your vehicle 3 inches will change camber approximately -3.86 degrees."
"If you lower your vehicle 1 inch, you can expect a camber
change of approximately -.84 degrees
Lowering your vehicle 2 inches will change camber approximately -2.12 degrees.
Lowering your vehicle 3 inches will change camber approximately -3.86 degrees."
#14
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Originally Posted by shnee420
Well I was assuming that those who did need a camber kit were all about the same.
I figure there can't be too much variation.
Who knows...
Maybe 3.0's are more likely to have camber issues since they are heavier?
I have the correct prokit (3.0) and 18" wheels, if that helps you at all...
I just came across this from the ingalls site:
"If you lower your vehicle 1 inch, you can expect a camber
change of approximately -.84 degrees
Lowering your vehicle 2 inches will change camber approximately -2.12 degrees.
Lowering your vehicle 3 inches will change camber approximately -3.86 degrees."
I understand these are just estimates, so does this sound about right to anyone?
I guess this can be answered by anyone with a drop and camber kit.
I'm no good at math.. can anyone figure what I'm looking at for a 1.5 inch drop (prokit/agx)?
I figure there can't be too much variation.
Who knows...
Maybe 3.0's are more likely to have camber issues since they are heavier?
I have the correct prokit (3.0) and 18" wheels, if that helps you at all...
I just came across this from the ingalls site:
"If you lower your vehicle 1 inch, you can expect a camber
change of approximately -.84 degrees
Lowering your vehicle 2 inches will change camber approximately -2.12 degrees.
Lowering your vehicle 3 inches will change camber approximately -3.86 degrees."
I understand these are just estimates, so does this sound about right to anyone?
I guess this can be answered by anyone with a drop and camber kit.
I'm no good at math.. can anyone figure what I'm looking at for a 1.5 inch drop (prokit/agx)?
I always thought you could install the camber kit, then get the alignment, then adjust the camber kit to the proper amount after seeing the data. I don't have any experience with this shit though.
#15
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any time you lower a car you need a camber kit to increase the life of the tires...unless you have the money to be spending on tires. And it depends on how much driving you do. if you do alot of driving then i suggest getting one
#16
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Originally Posted by Blenz
Well averaging between 1 inch and two inches would give you -1.43 degrees of correction, but it doesn't seem to be a linear relationship between the drop and the degrees of correction so this may not be completely correct.
I always thought you could install the camber kit, then get the alignment, then adjust the camber kit to the proper amount after seeing the data. I don't have any experience with this shit though.
I always thought you could install the camber kit, then get the alignment, then adjust the camber kit to the proper amount after seeing the data. I don't have any experience with this shit though.
Right. I suck at math, but I sat here hitting my brain with this problem since my last post.
I've figured this out:
at 1", 1" = 0.84
at 2", 1" = 1.06
at 3", 1" = 1.28
that means for every inch you go up (down), the value of one inch increases .22 degrees
I don't know if I worded that right.. but here..
0.84/1 = 0.84
2.12/2 = 1.06
3.86/3 = 1.28
1.28 - 1.06 = .22
1.06 - 0.84 = .22
if any math whiz wants to help out, please do
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#17
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Originally Posted by JadeFox
i want a pro kit REAL bad..but i KNOW some people need camber kits...thats why im holding off..but im almost ready to say F**K that and just buy em...ive been on the edge for weeks deciding on the kit...but then plus the new shocks and all else possibly cambers....why not go full coilovers...?although i've heard teins are to soft...man its a bitch to mod...I NEED A DROP!!
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#18
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Originally Posted by dragon084
prokit shouldnt need a camber kit.
#19
Dont be suprise people... Prokit do give negative camber. As long as u lower the car 1.5-3 inch, you will get camber problem. I have 18 in rims and the tire wear on the inside like a biatch. I had to get spc front camber kit to fix the problem. But the nut for the ball joint be hitting the fender in speed bumps and pot holes. Anyone know how to get rid of this issue?
#21
Originally Posted by KLepTo
shit, if youre going to be getting a camber kit for PRO-KITS :gheylaugh: which shouldnt need them, you might as well dump the shit out of your car. Make use of them camber kits.
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Originally Posted by Racer510dude
Dont be suprise people... Prokit do give negative camber. As long as u lower the car 1.5-3 inch, you will get camber problem. I have 18 in rims and the tire wear on the inside like a biatch. I had to get spc front camber kit to fix the problem. But the nut for the ball joint be hitting the fender in speed bumps and pot holes. Anyone know how to get rid of this issue?
hey guys, to make a long story short, I got a 99 acura cl 3.0 and if you get the pro-kit and tokico illuminas, u will need a camber kit. i took my car to acura technician a while back ago and they were unable to align my car within spec for front or rear. i purchased the ingalls for front +1 1/4 to +3 (rubber bushings) and also purchased the bolt ons and washers for back. my car is actually at the shop right now. acura told me they put on the bolts and washers successfully and the camber is not an issue anymore on the rear, however, due to the ingall installation in front may cause a banging sound because my car is too low. they say they are having someone else look into it in the morning to see if they can come up with something to releive the banging off the control arm, i will give status tommorow night...but i had camber for one year, and my tires were balding excessivley, especially in the front due to weight of 3.0, if anyone has anymore tips, please post, i really would like to know wtf to do if ingalls are not the answer? lol
#23
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Sounds like fun binny, prokits can still give camber
What shop you take your whip to?
What shop you take your whip to?
#25
Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL
Sounds like fun binny, prokits can still give camber
What shop you take your whip to?
What shop you take your whip to?
#26
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Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL
Sounds like fun binny, prokits can still give camber
What shop you take your whip to?
What shop you take your whip to?
#29
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The ingalls site is purely a generalization. Every car has its own camber curve. If you're really worried whether you need a kit or not, you can measure camber on your own.
1. Get a bubble gauge and set it vertical with the bottom of the gauge touching the bottom of your rim.
2. Use a tape measurer and measure the horizontal distance from the top of the bubble gauge to the top of the rim.
3. Use trigonometry to figure out the degree of negative camber.
Simple. Effective. Doesn't cost you $60 dollars. I'd also start looking for a new allignment shop if I were you as well.
BTW: Having some negative camber won't kill you or your tires, especially if you have zero toe.
1. Get a bubble gauge and set it vertical with the bottom of the gauge touching the bottom of your rim.
2. Use a tape measurer and measure the horizontal distance from the top of the bubble gauge to the top of the rim.
3. Use trigonometry to figure out the degree of negative camber.
Simple. Effective. Doesn't cost you $60 dollars. I'd also start looking for a new allignment shop if I were you as well.
BTW: Having some negative camber won't kill you or your tires, especially if you have zero toe.
#30
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Originally Posted by JadeFox
who knew droppin a car could be this hard...
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#31
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Originally Posted by Racer510dude
Dont be suprise people... Prokit do give negative camber. As long as u lower the car 1.5-3 inch, you will get camber problem. I have 18 in rims and the tire wear on the inside like a biatch. I had to get spc front camber kit to fix the problem. But the nut for the ball joint be hitting the fender in speed bumps and pot holes. Anyone know how to get rid of this issue?
#32
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i will be going to air suspension with my next ride for sure if i plan to drop, wouldn't of cost much more for air suspension when everything was said and done with struts/springs, camber kit and install labor for everything...plus there is still banging with my control arm...lol, pothetic...i can drop the shit outta air suspension, my next ride may be the Infiniti G35 or another acura (new cl or rsx)
#33
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Originally Posted by azian21485
The ingalls site is purely a generalization. Every car has its own camber curve. If you're really worried whether you need a kit or not, you can measure camber on your own.
1. Get a bubble gauge and set it vertical with the bottom of the gauge touching the bottom of your rim.
2. Use a tape measurer and measure the horizontal distance from the top of the bubble gauge to the top of the rim.
3. Use trigonometry to figure out the degree of negative camber.
Simple. Effective. Doesn't cost you $60 dollars. I'd also start looking for a new allignment shop if I were you as well.
BTW: Having some negative camber won't kill you or your tires, especially if you have zero toe.
1. Get a bubble gauge and set it vertical with the bottom of the gauge touching the bottom of your rim.
2. Use a tape measurer and measure the horizontal distance from the top of the bubble gauge to the top of the rim.
3. Use trigonometry to figure out the degree of negative camber.
Simple. Effective. Doesn't cost you $60 dollars. I'd also start looking for a new allignment shop if I were you as well.
BTW: Having some negative camber won't kill you or your tires, especially if you have zero toe.
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