whiggy

I read on the forums that the two phillips screws that hold the rotor are a bitch to take off but does anyone have any suggestions on what I could do to remove them? I have tried the impact driver (the one that you whack with a hammer) but all I did is bent the driver bit. The suckers won't budge!

Mach30SiR

lube it up, let it sit then whack at it again with the impact driver....

knothd

Use a dremmel cut a groove for the flathead driver bit use the impact driver again and smack the shit out of it should come loose for u good luck

whiggy

Thanks guys! I'll give both suggestions a try this weekend and post the results.

saiko_cl_duck

if they dont come out, i just got out the dremmel and an easy out ( man, i love that thing, it's great)

saiko_cl_duck

if they dont come out, i just got out the dremmel and an easy out ( man, i love that thing, it's great)

Smalls

torch them out

SupraManAG

blow them out
c4 is your best bet

saiko_cl_duck

use just one block, it'll bang it right outta there.

Silentalero

haha last week I did that and was close to getting the c4....

i started off with the standard phillips...no avail...then jumped to the impact gun/dremel technique...nada...then i torched the fawker....no avail....then i figured ok im gonna annialate that biotch...so i got the drill...alot of drill bits and basicly drilled those screws into nothing...rotor popped off +1 victory for me


all that was left of the screws was a pile of shreddings on the ground...4tehw1n!!

SupraManAG

just get the impact screwdriver
$10 = no shredded screws

wilp99

torch is a bad idea cause you can score your bearing race. which = $$$. you can use a chizzle and hammer. just put the chizzle at an angle to where it would loosten up the screw and give it a good whack. once thier out you dont have to put them back in. they are there so the rotors dont fall off on the assembly line. so if you tear them up dont worry.. if they are still good it cant hurt to put them back.



e-z outs are my favorite tool by the way. i have two sets.

JPhat22CL

e-z outs have saved my skin many of times

AS3.0CL

yup i did the same thing.........i had to drill the them out..

saiko_cl_duck

x3, i get em for free!

wilp99

bastard

saiko_cl_duck

agranado

thats hilarious bro

whiggy

I did it!!!

On the driver side I was able to take one screw out with the impact driver. Then the tip of the impact driver bit broke off in the other screw. I took the drill to it and the driver bit was a real biotch to drill out at first but I eventually did it.

On the passanger side I was able to take one screw out with a regular phillips screwdriver (WTF?) and the other one I had to drill out. Then the disc wouldn't come off so I had to tap on it from inside (used a two-by-four and a hammer).

All in all, I am glad I did it. It makes a world of difference - no more vibration when braking and it seems to stop on a dime now. :-)

Thank you all for your help.


P.S. My local AutoZone doesn't seem to carry C4. Go figure.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

U need special sellers for that

Silentalero

rubber mallet was my best friend that day.....brakes always need that motivational whack to come off

bobutler

I just did my pads/rotors/bleeding all around today for the first time.

The impact driver was a must and did the job removing those damn screws. I also broke a driver bit in the screw, but inserted another bit and just kept going. (my hand is now a bloody stump) Isn't it interesting that the screw we remove is not the same size as the screw you would insert in the other hole to break the rotor free?! Honda usually does better than that. Had to whack the rear rotors a lot, the fronts fell right off.

So, on the rear caliper and caliper bracket upper bolts, how the heck do you get a torque wrench in there to tighten them back to 80/54 ft lbs? Also, on one side (driver-rear), my bolt turned and turned until I realized I needed to lock up this oblong thingie next to the rubber. Only a problem on that one wheel.

Started to install a speed bleeder, then my heart sank as it turned round and round and I realized I had stripped the threads. Fortunately, the speed bleeder threads are soft, so I didn't damage the caliper threads (whew!). FYI - speed bleeders designed for 1986 Honda Accord 6cy do NOT fit the 99 CL 3.0. I'll have to call SB to see if they make any that do. Regardless, with my son pumping the brakes, bleeding was pretty easy. I was surprised how little fluid was needed and how quickly the new fluid appeared from the bleeder. My Chilton manual said the order should be driver-front, passenger-front, passenger-rear, driver-rear: almost the opposite of what I would expect, but that's what I did. I think the speed bleeder would only be of benefit if you had no helper. Using the speed bleeder solo, I would have spent just as much (or more) time checking the fluid coming out and topping up the resevour. No time savings.

So, I survived. No major injuries, property damage or mental illness (well . . .). Figured I saved up to $300. Now THAT'S satisfaction, baby.