thirdrail-1

I swapped a 95 JDM H22 with a P13ECU into my 99 Acura 2.3 CL. The motor had some complications at first but were for the most part worked through. I have had the H22 for about 6 months. It runs well, but there are some little things that bother me.
1. A sort of rubbing/grinding felt in the throttle during full acceleration in 1st gear. Possible Transmission mount?Suggestions?(been there for 6 months.) It's only when @WOT in first and a little in second.
2.Fluctuating idle from 0-1000. It slowly bounces to 0 at a complete stop, and when given gas to try and keep the car running...it makes a sort of knocking/rattle when accelerating away from 0 RPMs (Sort of like my timing is retarded too much.)PISSES ME OFF!!!!!!!!!!And after it dies, when I start it back up, you can hear that knock/rattle then too! When I run the A/C, the entire dash rattles why the idle sits around 0-250 RPM's and attempts to die! could this possibly be because I used the F23's Alternator, instead of the H22's? What is the difference? You think it is the P13? I really want a Chipped P28, but funds are tight.

I have had 3 check engine lights since the swap: TPS Sensor, HO2S, and EGR. EGR is expected, because it is not there. TPS....Possibly because of the Skunk2 Throttle body, and Intake Manifold. How can I make it so the TPS will leave me alone...I suspect this could be tied to the idle issue also. In the SKUNK2 troubleshooting manual it says something making sure that the voltage from the stock TB having to match the Skunk2 TB. What in the hell does that mean? And then there is theHO2S...O2 Sensor?

Anyways, Does anyone with H22 experience have any suggestions regarding issues like this? These little things are finally REALLY getting on my nerves.
Thanks!

SupraManAG

I get a lot of ping with my H22. My buddy at honda says these engines have ping nothing you can do about it. As far as low idles I have one vacum hose disconnected which lets it idle at about 1300. When AC is on @ 1000-700. I have lil vibrations but i could say the way I have it set up is best for me.

thirdrail-1

Does it matter which Vaccum hose?

ajtcl

The voltage they are speaking of is a base-line voltage that tells the ECU that the TPS is operating properly. The voltage should fall within a very specific envelope. if it is too high, or too low, the computer will assume the system is malfunctioning and throw a code and light the CEL. You may need to buy a resistor or a transister to decrease or increase the measured voltage so that the SKUNK 2 TPS matches the stock TPS. You can get these circuit devices at Radioshack. As for vacume lines, you don't want to try to solve a poor idle by Gery-rigging the vacume system. Just work through the problem with an ameter and you will solve your voltage ECU issue. As for the vibration, part of it is idle and the other part is a loose or improperly torqued motor mount.

Good luck.

thirdrail-1

Where can I find the stock voltage for the TPS for a H22 TB? I also need to know how much torque is required for the bolts for the oil pan. I changed it and the gasket about a2 months ago..and now that bitch is leaking. I tried not to overtighten, but now I went and tightened them all to see if it would take care of the leak...it didn't. So b4 I buy a new gasket and pull the oilpan, I would like to find out just how tight these bolts are supposed to be.

NitiNiteZ

iTrader: (1)

#1 happens to me too... what do u shift at?

ajtcl

When you replaced your pan gasket, did you use the HGS, Honda Gasket Sealer? If not, you wouldn't get a good seal on the pan. As for torque values, I do not have a Helms manual. Wilp99 might have that info, or Hondata might have it.

thirdrail-1

Depends on the situation. When I'm cruisin to work, prolly shift at about 4500-5000. If I am in the need for some speed..then...I will let that motor wind all the way up to 7500-8000. How bout you?

ajtcl

thirdrail-1

Cool, Where you @ WILP99?!!

As for the pan, I did use Honda Bond and a gasket. I am just curious as to how tight the bolts should be?
If anyone has a Helms, I would greatly appreciate the Stock TPS voltage and torque spec (if any) on the oil pan bolts, and motor mounts.
Thanks!!

thirdrail-1

LOL!
Dude..You have got to hear this shit!!!

If I can ever get a day off, I will post up some vids. I have been wanting to for about a week....

ajtcl

I love a good GrOwL... Post that motha so we can check it out. Just don't drive like that guy with the video in the "dry Canyon." If you drive like him, I'm gonna have to :shakehead... Just you. Yeah post that vid.

thirdrail-1

Funny thing is, I haven't seen that vid yet. Putfile.com is blocked by our SonicWall @ work.

SupraManAG

wasnt all that dude drivin
doesnt matter which port you can use any port that you arent currently using
as far as the TPS all it reads is how much the throttle opens the more you gas cable pulls the throttle open the more reading the sensor is giving the ECU which then appears on your rev gauge it your TPS were bad or dirty you would not have constant rpms it would drop or surge im currently having that problem

ajtcl

I thought that was his problem, rpm dropping and surging... oh well.

ayougo

sounds familiar. My boy had major issues with is h22 swap in his 93 prelude. Check the vacume line's and the fuel pump. also make sure that the correct voltage is being read. tap into the tps ( green i think ) and measure the v. at wot. it shouldent be more than the recommended specs ( check helms for your gen lude motor ) i have a good feeling its your tps its a problem on alot of swaps.

thirdrail-1

I think so too because when I got the motor it was on a crate. I had no clue that I had to know what the voltage was on the TPS. I put the Skunk2 TB and Intake Manifold on thinking I would start this motor off with same FLOW!! I then started to think that something was up with it, and got CELs over it too. so I read the troubleshooting area and found that out.
The other thing about the throttle body that bothers me is my throttle cable is about 4-5 inches too long. Thus my mechanic rigged up a bracket, and has the throttle cable wrapped one extra time around the TB.
How did the other H22ers get around the Throttle cable being too long?
I am not sure who to shorten these because of that little weight that is on the end of the cable, or do I buy a new one? The Preludes was too short/...

Outlaw

Vacuum lines could be the problem just as everyone suggested. Some of mine were mixed up and I would get cylinder missfire.

NitiNiteZ

iTrader: (1)

dude man... if u shift that late.. ur gonna kill ur engine. There's no point going past 7... u don't make power... and shifting at like 4500 on the street? man... ur wasting ur gas. but each to his own. I don't remember the last time i hit vtec...stupid gas prices.

SupraManAG

No that would be the idle control valve. A problem like that occurs when the valve itself it dirty and carbonised.

SupraManAG

Do you drive h22? Are you sure you dont make power after 7k? I agree you dont make power after 9k but 7k? As a note do not believe everything that is writen in this site. I remember someone writing about rpm power limitation on the h22. I feel like a lot of stock h22 (no engine work) users are bad mouthed because they take pride in their swaps. Well u know what,? H22s are the shit!! Trust me an H22 has plenty of power at 7K. By the way when I race I shift gear at 8-8.5.

wilp99

sounds like a gasket leak to me. spray carb cleaner all over the intake while its running, if it surges when your spraing at a certain spot youve found your leak.. make sure the water temp sensor (the one with more than one wire) is there and not broken cause its made of ceramic and breaks easily. again its not the one with one wire.

thirdrail-1

Well, I have the CLs tranny, so those long ass gears pull some power. I feel most of my power from 4500-7500. mY vtec kICKS IN RIGHT @ 4500, SO i USUALLY CHANGE GEARS AROUND THERE TOO, BECAUSE OF THE b.s gAS PRICES.

Dagreen

true a standerd h22 ecu you wont see power past 6500k but with chip ecu's and mods you see good power from 6-85k if you got head work 9-95k all day. unless you have a h22 you can never speak on 1 truely!

NitiNiteZ

iTrader: (1)

I have a h22 swap with i/h/e in my cl. I dynoed my car... and according to my dyno... my max power is at about 6.8, but yea... i only have basic bolt ons. But when i look at other h22 dynos with cams, hondata and such... they do make power over 7... but as for i/h/e setup... power isn't seen much past 6.8. And yes... h22s are the ish!

SupraManAG

check you facts buddy iv had h22 for 2 years now

CL Platano

With all these freaking tuning issues I don't think I'll ever put in an H22

froggystyle14

i agree with wilp, i sprayed carb cleaner on my vacum lines and i found a cracked line, in a place i would have never looked. plus you can get a vacum gauge and plug it up to a vacum line and if it holds solid, then there is no leak but if it is low and flucks a little the u got a leak some where.

thirdrail-1

Froggy, Did you ever get your swap done? How does it run? If so, When we gonna meet up and run our rides.
I would definately like to see what you have done. Hit me up...

thirdrail-1

It's really not that bad man. It is worth the minor irritations in the long run...because just think, some modded civic/accord/jetta/integra/crx pulls up on you and thinks that "Aw...he ain't got shit..Isn't that one of those luxury/sport Coupes? Their SLOW as hell!" (Some of these noobs, don't even know the name of our car, because they are so uncommon as far as modding gos.)

And then when they try and jump on you....You downshift and FUCKIN LEAVE THEIR ASS!!!!
And all they can do is sit there and watch the ass end of our ride, pull farther and farther away from them, and their stuck what kind of car just bitch-slapped them .....(Well maybe not to that Xtreme...)

I absolutely love that feeling... I know having an H22 doesn't make me the fastest dude on the street...but it definately has given a new life to my ride and on an occasion will catch people off guard when they step up to the SLEEPAHH!!!.

So, speaking for someone who has been through it.....
If you get the oppurtunity to swap an H22 into your whip, DO IT! And if at all possible TURBO that BEyatch!! (Haven't done it, but I crave for the first time I will start the ignition with a turbo fully installed....)There are alot of people here with alot of knowledge on the subject...which makes it so much easier when you are doing the swap...It helped me out alot!

Well enuff rambling>>>>>>>>>>BACC2WERK.