Shift past red line
10-20-2005, 02:54 PM
#2
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Originally Posted by ShavedH22CL
does anyone else shift past redline but me?? i still feel power until about 7'gs
Yes..I do.
I also feel the power up to 7500.
H22's redline @7900 if my memory serves me correctly.
10-20-2005, 11:08 PM
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im doin my homeboys h23/h22 frankenstein on his 96 lude, and we got a p78 ecu from the gsr, it has a 7800 redline. but with the stroke of the h23 it would destroy it in a week so were gonna degrade it to 7200. this lude is gonna be a beast. people are dynoing 186 to the wheels bone stock. and he's got headers, vfac, and h22 type r pistons. hopefully well put down bout 215 whp. did you know the h23 has the same crank/block as the f23. so why havent more of us done the f23/h22 frankenstein. if yall want ill do a write up on the swap.. but only if people are interested in doin the frankenstein.
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10-20-2005, 11:13 PM
#8
Nom Nom Nom Nom
Originally Posted by wilp99
im doin my homeboys h23/h22 frankenstein on his 96 lude, and we got a p78 ecu from the gsr, it has a 7800 redline. but with the stroke of the h23 it would destroy it in a week so were gonna degrade it to 7200. this lude is gonna be a beast. people are dynoing 186 to the wheels bone stock. and he's got headers, vfac, and h22 type r pistons. hopefully well put down bout 215 whp. did you know the h23 has the same crank/block as the f23. so why havent more of us done the f23/h22 frankenstein. if yall want ill do a write up on the swap.. but only if people are interested in doin the frankenstein.
btw im interested!
10-20-2005, 11:26 PM
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this swap puts down gobbs more torque than the h22 also. so far he's bought
h22 head-$200 (ebizzle)
p78 ecu-$100 (ebizzle)
h22 header-$100 (ebizzle)
h22 intake manifold-$20 (ebizzle)
vafc II-$150 (ebizzle)
h22 head set (head gasket, etc.) $110
h22 lower timing gear (different cause the belt is one tooth longer) $80 from honda
h22 timing belt/water pump $100
theres a few more parts he's picked up. some people say its cheaper to do a whole h22, but you dont get the gains, and most of that stuff you should change out while the engine is out anyways, (timing belt, waterpump, head gasket etc.) ill post pics as it gets completed.. were startin this weekend. oh yea were doin this cause his timing belt broke and fawked his h23 head (117k miles). so lesson learned kiddies, change your timing belt.
h22 head-$200 (ebizzle)
p78 ecu-$100 (ebizzle)
h22 header-$100 (ebizzle)
h22 intake manifold-$20 (ebizzle)
vafc II-$150 (ebizzle)
h22 head set (head gasket, etc.) $110
h22 lower timing gear (different cause the belt is one tooth longer) $80 from honda
h22 timing belt/water pump $100
theres a few more parts he's picked up. some people say its cheaper to do a whole h22, but you dont get the gains, and most of that stuff you should change out while the engine is out anyways, (timing belt, waterpump, head gasket etc.) ill post pics as it gets completed.. were startin this weekend. oh yea were doin this cause his timing belt broke and fawked his h23 head (117k miles). so lesson learned kiddies, change your timing belt.
10-20-2005, 11:31 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by wilp99
im doin my homeboys h23/h22 frankenstein on his 96 lude, and we got a p78 ecu from the gsr, it has a 7800 redline. but with the stroke of the h23 it would destroy it in a week so were gonna degrade it to 7200. this lude is gonna be a beast. people are dynoing 186 to the wheels bone stock. and he's got headers, vfac, and h22 type r pistons. hopefully well put down bout 215 whp. did you know the h23 has the same crank/block as the f23. so why havent more of us done the f23/h22 frankenstein. if yall want ill do a write up on the swap.. but only if people are interested in doin the frankenstein.
10-21-2005, 12:21 AM
#12
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wierd ? you get speed and rpms though when i shift at 6 it feels to early for my power. at 7 i could be in second at 64 and have a higher rpm jump into 3rd so i dont loose any torque. Preference i guess
10-21-2005, 03:59 PM
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Ayougo... I think your tac may be off. My starts bouncing off of the rev limiter at 6250 and i dont think the F22 has a higher redline than the F23
10-21-2005, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Lunchbox
Ayougo... I think your tac may be off. My starts bouncing off of the rev limiter at 6250 and i dont think the F22 has a higher redline than the F23
7g shift point on the f2.x would destroy it self pretty quick.. the h23 has a rev limit of 6800.. no higher, due to the stroke. theres no oil squerters on the crank of the f2.x. (the h22 does have them and they can be added to the f2.x to allow higher revvs giving that you have a p13 obd2 ecu 7800rpm limit. pointless but its there.
10-22-2005, 02:42 AM
#16
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yes, 7 g shifts isnt good. My engine seems to scream though up top after the build. My ecu wont allow fuel any higher than 7300 ish. And yes, 7 comes easy in my f22. Theres a vid here somewere im to lazy to get it. Its so hot in Texas anyways i hate gassin it because at 104 degs, its 
found it here http://media.putfile.com/quickburst
btw it was 105 degs and very high humidity
found it here http://media.putfile.com/quickburst
btw it was 105 degs and very high humidity
10-22-2005, 03:01 AM
#17
Originally Posted by wilp99
this swap puts down gobbs more torque than the h22 also. so far he's bought
h22 head-$200 (ebizzle)
p78 ecu-$100 (ebizzle)
h22 header-$100 (ebizzle)
h22 intake manifold-$20 (ebizzle)
vafc II-$150 (ebizzle)
h22 head set (head gasket, etc.) $110
h22 lower timing gear (different cause the belt is one tooth longer) $80 from honda
h22 timing belt/water pump $100
theres a few more parts he's picked up. some people say its cheaper to do a whole h22, but you dont get the gains, and most of that stuff you should change out while the engine is out anyways, (timing belt, waterpump, head gasket etc.) ill post pics as it gets completed.. were startin this weekend. oh yea were doin this cause his timing belt broke and fawked his h23 head (117k miles). so lesson learned kiddies, change your timing belt.
h22 head-$200 (ebizzle)
p78 ecu-$100 (ebizzle)
h22 header-$100 (ebizzle)
h22 intake manifold-$20 (ebizzle)
vafc II-$150 (ebizzle)
h22 head set (head gasket, etc.) $110
h22 lower timing gear (different cause the belt is one tooth longer) $80 from honda
h22 timing belt/water pump $100
theres a few more parts he's picked up. some people say its cheaper to do a whole h22, but you dont get the gains, and most of that stuff you should change out while the engine is out anyways, (timing belt, waterpump, head gasket etc.) ill post pics as it gets completed.. were startin this weekend. oh yea were doin this cause his timing belt broke and fawked his h23 head (117k miles). so lesson learned kiddies, change your timing belt.
10-22-2005, 03:38 PM
#18
Three Wheelin'
Just about every Honda I've seen on the dyno has an innacurate tach.
What you're doing is correct. Shift right as you feel the power fall off, or find that spot on the tach and shift right before it.
What you're doing is correct. Shift right as you feel the power fall off, or find that spot on the tach and shift right before it.
10-22-2005, 03:44 PM
#19
F1 cart racer
Originally Posted by ayougo
yes, 7 g shifts isnt good. My engine seems to scream though up top after the build. My ecu wont allow fuel any higher than 7300 ish. And yes, 7 comes easy in my f22. Theres a vid here somewere im to lazy to get it. Its so hot in Texas anyways i hate gassin it because at 104 degs, its
found it here http://media.putfile.com/quickburst
btw it was 105 degs and very high humidity
found it here http://media.putfile.com/quickburst
btw it was 105 degs and very high humidity
didn't u have ur motor rebuit or something like that, i can't remember but that would give u the opportunity to shit at 7K, right?
10-22-2005, 03:51 PM
#20
how handsome I am
Originally Posted by wilp99
im doin my homeboys h23/h22 frankenstein on his 96 lude, and we got a p78 ecu from the gsr, it has a 7800 redline. but with the stroke of the h23 it would destroy it in a week so were gonna degrade it to 7200. this lude is gonna be a beast. people are dynoing 186 to the wheels bone stock. and he's got headers, vfac, and h22 type r pistons. hopefully well put down bout 215 whp. did you know the h23 has the same crank/block as the f23. so why havent more of us done the f23/h22 frankenstein. if yall want ill do a write up on the swap.. but only if people are interested in doin the frankenstein.
)I'd be very interested in reading up on a h22 head/f22 block swap.
10-22-2005, 08:05 PM
#21
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ive already looked into it. it takes alot of money and resources. The heads are not cheap and theres alot of petty things you have to do to make it work.
yes, building the f22 did give me that oppertunity. The engine drops off at 6950 ish and i loose 5 hp at 7000 but i get a crazy jump into third from 64mph to 70 and upward in no time BUT my clutch sucks balls and cant handle it Our f22 block CAN handle the 7000 rpms but its the head that needs reinforcment to take it on a daily basis. The studs need to be stronger. Alot say the crank has to be knifed, but i didnt have that done and my engine feels smooth and very strong at those rpms. 70-94 comes quick and 4th take me to 125 !!! Right now i realy want a shorter gear ratio so im looking into the m2s4 tranny/h23 tranny but as far as the boost staying in gear, the f tranny is better. Im still opting for the h23 tranny though. If you took a full bolt on cl- stock internals with the h23 tranny, you can drop a second off your quarter mile time !! ( check out accordinglydone ) Many have done the swap and with lightweight flys and aftermarket clutch, they see a good second off there quarter mile time from 16.5 to 15.5 and some to even 15.2 !!! The tranny makes a huge huge difference in acceleration.
yes, building the f22 did give me that oppertunity. The engine drops off at 6950 ish and i loose 5 hp at 7000 but i get a crazy jump into third from 64mph to 70 and upward in no time BUT my clutch sucks balls and cant handle it
Our f22 block CAN handle the 7000 rpms but its the head that needs reinforcment to take it on a daily basis. The studs need to be stronger. Alot say the crank has to be knifed, but i didnt have that done and my engine feels smooth and very strong at those rpms. 70-94 comes quick and 4th take me to 125 !!! Right now i realy want a shorter gear ratio so im looking into the m2s4 tranny/h23 tranny but as far as the boost staying in gear, the f tranny is better. Im still opting for the h23 tranny though. If you took a full bolt on cl- stock internals with the h23 tranny, you can drop a second off your quarter mile time !! ( check out accordinglydone ) Many have done the swap and with lightweight flys and aftermarket clutch, they see a good second off there quarter mile time from 16.5 to 15.5 and some to even 15.2 !!! The tranny makes a huge huge difference in acceleration.
10-22-2005, 08:10 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by Lunchbox
Ayougo... I think your tac may be off. My starts bouncing off of the rev limiter at 6250 and i dont think the F22 has a higher redline than the F23
10-22-2005, 11:40 PM
#23
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i got a few pics of a guys crank from the h23 that had the h23/h22 frankenstein, its snapped in two because the crank bearings seazed up. he said he was constantly going over 7k rpm, and now he's gettin a new crank. the h23 has the same exact crank as teh f22.
10-23-2005, 12:33 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by wilp99
i got a few pics of a guys crank from the h23 that had the h23/h22 frankenstein, its snapped in two because the crank bearings seazed up. he said he was constantly going over 7k rpm, and now he's gettin a new crank. the h23 has the same exact crank as teh f22.
then again, i shift at 6800 for track/strip 6300 for race 3500 for driving ( no need to beat the shit out of your car )
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