Alright so I got my VAFC installed with the harness that showed up today, and I go through all the initialization settings and set them. Then as I'm browsing through the settings options of the VAFC I come across the VTEC engagement part and I notice that it's set at
Low -> High 5400RPM
High -> Low 5800RPM

and I'm like I know that ain't right, but still nowhere in the initialization settings does it say to adjust the VTEC point for my specific car even though I adjusted other setting specific to my car. So I was in a dilemma, do I go against the instructions and adjust the VTEC before the first time starting the car or do I change what appears to be obviously wrong. Normally I'd go with the latter and then I'd fuck something up and it would break, so I didn't want that to happen so I started the car and very nervously took it for a spin around the block. I wasn't going fast enough on the first leg of the lap to engage VTEC so on the way back I decided to keep it in 1st gear. When I do this I notice that as 3800RPM comes around ain't nothing happening no sound, no pickup, no nada. I then cautiously let it go up past 5000RPM and it seems then as it might want to switchover but it doesn't sound right at all so I quickly lay off it and cruise home.

So what I'm getting at is I need the H->L and L->H engagement points for VTEC on the 3.0. I need more than just 3800RPM. I can drive fine just I'm not gonna go higher than 3500RPM, other than this everything else seems fine no check engine lights or anything.

 

half those guys (if not all) wont understand what you said in the title. lol.

and sorry, im not familiar with VAFC myself.

 

Did u get banned again?

 

No I just messed with my account and got locked out sortof and AZ didn't really help me so I just said F' it I only have 6 posts so I'll start another one.

 

Well their curiousity will entice them to open and read it. What's with the gorillas lately, is that your new fetish or something? Is the Gorillaz your favorite group?

 

um... I dunno, it made me laugh?

 

I dont have the VAFC hooked up cause it doesnt do any good on the J32's ecu. If it was hooked up and on, then I could tell you the settings.

Anyone want the VAFC2 pretuned for my car for $200? Tuned with I/H/E/P and vtec engagement at 3800rpms.

 

Were you at WOT at 3800 rpms to allow vtec to engage?

 

No, but I kept it in first gear all the way up to just over 5000RPM and it never engaged.

 

haha

 

wait is this ayougo? lol

 

no fool blackack was right earlier in this thread.

 

Pretty sure you need to be at WOT for vtec to engage. Works off of oil pressure I thought.

 

Are you trying to say that you have to have it floored before the VTEC will engage? Cause if so then that's definitely not true. As long as you have the oil pressure it engages based on the engines RPM and not the throttle position. I often keep the engine in VTEC in 2nd gear when trying to get through traffic. When VTEC is on and I'm above 4000RPM in 2nd gear the car jumps foreward when I tap the gas, this is not the case right now with my engagement point set at 5400RPM. If it was based of WOT it would switch to VTEC right away as soon as you floored it from a red light.

 

Dibs, pm sent

 

Yeah that's a good deal Black. I do want to recommend a wiring harness or you'll never get around to install it. With the wiring harness it took me about 1 min to peel back the carpeting about 3 mins to remove the metal footrest and then from there it's about 1 min to unplug wires from ecu and plug into the harness and then plug the harness back into the ecu and the VAFC. No without the harness you will have NO SLACK AT ALL so it you want to splice wires you gonna have to install extra wire to make the original wire longer so you have room to play with. You'll have to do this for every wire, and you don't want to fuck up once or you'll an engine light and then you'll have to troubleshoot it. FUCK THAT I ain't got time for that!! With the harness it it's a fail safe 10-15min install without out it's a grueling highly error prone 2-3 hour install.

Ok so I also posted this on that other forum and some one said
L -> H: 3500
H -> L: 3400
does that sound about right? I thought it might have been a little low but then what do I know.

 

did you reset to factory defauts before you set it up?

I did that, and then did the initial setup, and it worked fine, but I have the VAFC2.

did you get tit used or new?

 

Well like I said before it's used but it hasn't been used so it's new. How did you reset to factory settings, I did the initialization thing which for me was under etc which I was under the impression that it reset all my settings. Ghost I'd like to know what you have your crossover points set at, I'll probably just set them to that. I just tried the 3500, 3400 and to me it seemed like the crossover point was a little low, IDK if it's cause I thought it was too low before I tried and therefore my mind is playing tricks on me and making it seem like it's too low or it really is. But either way I got VTEC back. I remember testing it with my friend where the VTEC kicked in and I told him it was 3800 and would demonstrate by keeping my engine revs in the 3800 range while driving. Shouldn't this be in the Helm's manual somewhere, can't someone check. I've googled it and search on this forum and the other and can't find any definite answers.

Oh sorry ghost I forgot I don't have the same username I used too, I'm the one that PM'd you about the location of the ECU a few weeks ago, thanks again for that!!

 

Oh you meant tit um no I didn't get any titties when I bought the VAFC. I did get if from a big guy who probably has man titties so they where there if I wanted them but no, those aren't for me.

 

Thats what I was saying, I wasnt sure if it did or not. I was under the assumption that oil pressure was related to crank revolutions in hence would affect vtec engagement. But, now that I think about it, I remember seeing my green light switch to red at 3800rpms even when it wasn't under full load. My bads, I was simply trying to help in trying to come up with some sort of answer.

Next thing, maybe you didnt preset it to stock settings? Or is this new?

 

Don't worry, I plan to get the harness fo sho

 

It's new in the sense that it hasn't been used before unless it was used with a harness and they never spliced the wires, cause the wires are in new condidition. It was set to a 4 cyl with 5400RPM Vtec engage, then I set it to 6cyl like the manual told me to and left the VTEC where it was then I decided I wanted to clear my settings I did that but when I did it was still set a 6cyl with VTEC at 5400RPM, I'm gonna read more but I thought that the initialize option did that. maybe I didn't do it right let me go try it again hold on I'll be right back.............................................. .................................................. .......................... Yeah no it didn't work, it set's VTEC at 5800RPM and 5400RPM respectively. That might work if it was 2000RPM lower but no. So I set it at 3600 and 3500.

 

But I 'd really like to hear from anyone with a J30 with a VAFC I or II what do you have your VTEC set at, it should be the same for both models. In fact I don't care if you don't have VAFC, if you got e-manage, Unichip, hondata I don't care it's all the same.

 

so, when you initialized it did you turn it off then back on again?

what you need to do is initialize all settings, then turn teh car off, then back on.

then setup the # of cylinders, tps calibration, and other stuff, then don't mess with anything else and just drive your car a little bit. do some cruising, then some WOT.

if everything runs normal, don't touch it till you get it tuned, lol.

I can't remember if the vtec engagement settings were blank or just had dummy values in there when I reset it.

 

Yes I followed the instructions and turned it off after selecting yes in the initialize section and then turned it back on, and when I did that it set it to 6 cylinders, TPS w/ the arrow pointing up, input and output sensors both at one and the book said to set it to six which I did, and it reset my previous VTEC settings of 3500/3400 to 5800/5400. I'm wondering if the VTEC is off by 2000RPM, but I don't know why that'd be. I did go drive around for a little bit when I had the VTEC set at 5400RPM and it never adjusted itself, and I don't think going WOT with the VTEC set that high is a good idea at all so I'm definitely not trying that. Nowhere in the instructions does it say that you should drive around to get the settings right, in fact they say make sure you have your setting right before you start the engine to prevent engine damage. Ghost can you possibly go look at your car real quick and tell me what it says in regards to the VTEC, it should be under the setting menu at least it is for me. If you settings make sense than I'll switch to those. Oh wait you have the CL-S cams did you lower your VTEC because of that? Man I can't wait for the custom cams, oh and I might be getting my rims installed tomorrow. I'm getting something done tomorrow either that or getting this thing dynoed or hopefully both.

 

are you talking about the V/T info in the etc. section or the "VT set" in the settings section?

in the v/t info section it says 5800 for L>H, and then 0 for h>L. Those are just the values it reads everytime you drive. they are irrelevent.

 

Daniel, I dunno if my PM went through since you have a new account, but did you figure out what obd the 97 3.0's have? I think you have a 98, but can't remember for sure. Please lemme know which harness i need to buy and where you got yours from.

 

I have VAFC2 on the J32 CLS. Yes to reset go to initialize under "etc". When I initialize mine, it always sets it back to a 4cyl setting. I found this out by messing with it, after initialization I changed JUST the VTEC engagement point...I found that VTEC kicked in at 3800 rpm even if I had it set at something different (L<H 4600k, H<L 4200k). After switching it to 6 cylinder, VTEC engagement worked as it should. What is the factory VTEC engagement for the J30? I ask because if it is much lower than stock, you will need to take care of the vtec correction factor also(vtec unmt). Otherwise, although the engine will go into high cam when desired, the ecu will not treat it like hi cam because it does not recognize it without vtec correction. There is a lot more involved than just changing vtec point and messing with the a/f ratio. I have messed around and found that a lower VTEC engagement with adjusted a/f is beneficial in the midrange, but seems to hurt the upper range. Since our cars were designed to excel in the upper rpm's of course. So basically, the performance is the same if not worse. My experience so far has been up and down, I am going to take my car to a tuner as there are many variables involved for a proper tune.

 

Trial and error is the best way to go..Although when I thought I had it it all setup perfect (to make it not as deathly lean up top), in short time I consistantly get a rev limiter at 5500rpm. I don't like our ecu to begin with though. When I first went to get my car stock dynoed, after hitting 3rd gear rev limiter the ecu cut power and torque by around 25/25. Keeping the car on and fan cooled for 20 minutes did not help. If you turn the car off then back on to reset the ecu though, back to normal. Weird shit I must say.

 

oh yeah, and I should mention something too.

before the VAFC your car won't engage VTEC until the car is at least slightly warmed up.

if you alter the vtec engagement with the VAFC it iwll engage VTEC after that set rpm NO MATTER WHAT!

I noticed that if I accidentally let it go past my set rpm when the engine is still cold it will lose an assload of power. I think what actually happens is that it tells the ECU that it's engaging VTEC, so the ecu adds a bunch of fuel for the bigger cams, bt since hte oil pressure isn't high enough yet it doesn't actually switch to the bigger lobes and thus runs very very rich.

either wy be careful not to do that, because for all I know it's causing more damage than just runnign rich.

 

You can not tune the CLS ECU with a VAFC. The ECU automatically corrects itself when the info is leaving the ecu. You have to trick the info coming into the ECU in order for it to work, Greddy Emanage is one of the products that can be tuned with the CLS ECU. I forgot the other one, brain fart right now.

 

Not a true piggy back engine management system, can't control timing as a main flaw. What ecu do you have in your setup man? The CLS ecu actually does adjust with the VAFC2, I just messed with it on my break. I googled a description of what it does:

This A'PEX digital fuel computer combines fuel computer functions with a VTEC engagement controller. The V-AFC2 features a user-definable, eight-point, adjustable fuel curve that can be set in 500 RPM increments. The range of fuel adjustment is /- 50% at each of the user-defined setting points. The Fuel Adjustment function considers wide/narrow throttle and low/high camshaft settings, from which four different fuel maps are created (wide-low, wide-high, narrow-low, narrow-high). The integrated VTEC Controller adjusts the point at which the engine switches from the Lo to Hi cam during acceleration, as well as when the engine switches from the Hi to Lo cam during deceleration.

 

Does ANYONE know which connector the 97 3.0 uses? I've searched and couldn't find the answer

OBD2A or B? Anyone?

 

No I'm talking about in the settings section. that's what it's set at.

Black PM sent.

I got to go to work so I don't have time to reply to all this but thanks guys.

Hopefully I won't need this info after today cause I'm gonna try to get a dyno and street tune done today, either that of finally get my rims and drop installed, but hopefully both.

LATER BITCHES!!

 

Black I'm gonna try to take pics today of everything and I'll see if I can figure out for you whether it's a or b

I think pin wise OBD2b the connectors have 32 pins, 25, 31 and 16. Not necessarily in that order but close enough. check your ecu cause it will say in the connectors 25p, 31p etc.

 

ok I just looked in the manual for my VAFC and it seems to me that OBD2a is missing the 25 pin connector but it has the 32, 31 and 16. or you might be h2-a which has 26p, 16p and 22p. your either h2-a, h6-a or like me and then you'd be h7-a which is obd2b. the one I mentioned above is h6-a. Get a VAFC II manual and everything I said will make sense.

 

What the VAFC shows is one thing, but what the CLS ECU is doing is another. Check your baords, you'll get the same answers there. I'm using the CLS ECU in my set up btw. If the VAFC did work, I would have used it with this setup already.