Loud Rear Struts - KYB
#1
Bagel Bomber
Thread Starter
Loud Rear Struts - KYB
So i had my rear struts installed in October, and since then they are making a clunking noise over bumps and even smaller bumps. Anyone have this problem before and how did you fix it?
Of course Merchants wants to charge me 400 bucks to replace the rear strut mounts. I dont think the lock nut on top is down far enough to be honest. Does anyone have a picture of their rear struts, and how far down the lock strut is.
I have a 1998 3.0, not lowered.
Of course Merchants wants to charge me 400 bucks to replace the rear strut mounts. I dont think the lock nut on top is down far enough to be honest. Does anyone have a picture of their rear struts, and how far down the lock strut is.
I have a 1998 3.0, not lowered.
#3
Drifting
So i had my rear struts installed in October, and since then they are making a clunking noise over bumps and even smaller bumps. Anyone have this problem before and how did you fix it?
Of course Merchants wants to charge me 400 bucks to replace the rear strut mounts. I dont think the lock nut on top is down far enough to be honest. Does anyone have a picture of their rear struts, and how far down the lock strut is.
I have a 1998 3.0, not lowered.
Of course Merchants wants to charge me 400 bucks to replace the rear strut mounts. I dont think the lock nut on top is down far enough to be honest. Does anyone have a picture of their rear struts, and how far down the lock strut is.
I have a 1998 3.0, not lowered.
$400 is a lot of money to install two $12 parts. However, it's not fun to do. It merely involves detaching the lower strut bolts, torching the rubber out from the old mounts(wear a respirator if you've got one), get the center of the mount out. Continue torching and removing rubber as you go. Eventually you'll have just a metal ring left in the hole, cut the ring and with a little work, pull it out. Then hammer the new mount in. If I were to equate the job to money(labor), I'd pay someone $200.
#4
Bagel Bomber
Thread Starter
I've no idea what you're saying, it might just be too early in the day for me.
$400 is a lot of money to install two $12 parts. However, it's not fun to do. It merely involves detaching the lower strut bolts, torching the rubber out from the old mounts(wear a respirator if you've got one), get the center of the mount out. Continue torching and removing rubber as you go. Eventually you'll have just a metal ring left in the hole, cut the ring and with a little work, pull it out. Then hammer the new mount in. If I were to equate the job to money(labor), I'd pay someone $200.
$400 is a lot of money to install two $12 parts. However, it's not fun to do. It merely involves detaching the lower strut bolts, torching the rubber out from the old mounts(wear a respirator if you've got one), get the center of the mount out. Continue torching and removing rubber as you go. Eventually you'll have just a metal ring left in the hole, cut the ring and with a little work, pull it out. Then hammer the new mount in. If I were to equate the job to money(labor), I'd pay someone $200.
#5
2.2CL owner
I have KYB agX's too, I have the same problem. What is the solution for this ? ... Tein's
My set up is Eibach Pro-Kit springs w/ KYB-AGX adj. gas shocks.
My set up is Eibach Pro-Kit springs w/ KYB-AGX adj. gas shocks.
#6
Bagel Bomber
Thread Starter
the solution isn't new struts, these are new. The solution is proper installation. I am hoping someone will provide a picture of the rear upper lock nut if they have a minute. I think that is where my problem lies.
#7
Drifting
Thanks, but i am talking about the upper mount, not the lower. The lower bushings have already been replaced. From your trunk, they are right behind some carpet near the wheel wells. There is a locking nut on the top. I suspect mine isn't down far enough, but I cant tighten it down more. I'd estimate 3/8s of an inch sticking up.
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#8
Bagel Bomber
Thread Starter
^^^ what shocks are those, GR-2's? Thats a perfect picture, Thanks so much. I have no thread showing, and jus about 3/8's of the very top tab where there is now threads showing. I knew it wasn't down far enough.
How does one go about tightening this? I'm thinking about jacking up the car, pushing up the plastic that covers the silver rod, and vice gripping that and trying to turn the nut up top. I've tried gripping the top tab, but its way to small. Thanks again for that picture. It confirmed exactly what i suspected.
How does one go about tightening this? I'm thinking about jacking up the car, pushing up the plastic that covers the silver rod, and vice gripping that and trying to turn the nut up top. I've tried gripping the top tab, but its way to small. Thanks again for that picture. It confirmed exactly what i suspected.
#9
Senior Moderator
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
iTrader: (6)
On my stock ones, I was able to crank on mine by accident when I was trying to get the bolts for the shock off, you should be able to put a ratchet on that bad boy and tighten away. You may have to take the weight off the shock though
#10
Bagel Bomber
Thread Starter
If i just try to tighten it down with out locking the strut "piston" all it does is spin the whole piston around and around. I need to back that nut off, and get a new one. It doesn't even look like that one. I'm trying to find a camera around here to post pictures. Thanks for the replys!
#12
Bagel Bomber
Thread Starter
#14
Bagel Bomber
Thread Starter
I cant tell if you are messing with me or you have the exact same problem. How does your rear shock look back in the trunk, like mine or the picture above?
I'm trying to find a way to tighten down that nut more. I'm planning on jacking up the car, and vice gripping the strut piston so it doesn't turn when i go to tighten down the lock nut.
My questions are now, if that will work, or do i need to take pressure off the strut assembly? I'm not trying to remove the whole assembly.
I dont really really know lock nuts well, but i'm hoping I can tighten it down more. I wasn't able to vice grip the top tab and tighten it down. As you can see from the picture, that tab is pretty messed up on my first attempt to tighten it down.
I'm trying to find a way to tighten down that nut more. I'm planning on jacking up the car, and vice gripping the strut piston so it doesn't turn when i go to tighten down the lock nut.
My questions are now, if that will work, or do i need to take pressure off the strut assembly? I'm not trying to remove the whole assembly.
I dont really really know lock nuts well, but i'm hoping I can tighten it down more. I wasn't able to vice grip the top tab and tighten it down. As you can see from the picture, that tab is pretty messed up on my first attempt to tighten it down.
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