jdm head lights
10-10-2004, 12:08 PM
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jdm head lights
Hey what's up fellas? Question for you all I want to JMSify my headlights by painting the crome piece black. To rip apart the lights i was told you can bake it in the over on 200 degrees for like 20 mins. So does any one know how long or how hot to bake them to melt the glue?
10-10-2004, 12:28 PM
#3
ImportJunkie.net [SYTFU]
cl-z and someothers did it..here are some instructions but do it at your own risk. you can also try searching i think there are a couple more threads somewhere i just saw this one first. GOOD LUCK!
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ting+headlight
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ting+headlight
10-10-2004, 01:31 PM
#6
ENGAGE MY VTEC BABY!!!!!!
Originally Posted by swain's cl
Hey what's up fellas? Question for you all I want to JMSify my headlights by painting the crome piece black. To rip apart the lights i was told you can bake it in the over on 200 degrees for like 20 mins. So does any one know how long or how hot to bake them to melt the glue?
250 degrees for 8 mins but check on it about 3-5 and at that point lift up the tabs to make it wasier on yourself
10-10-2004, 05:44 PM
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this is the last time i post this. i dotn know why ppl never find this in a seacrh
LENS REMOVAL
1. Take off your front bumper (if you don’t know how to do a search or by a helm manual. you should buy one anyways)
2. Unbolt the headlamps. (6 bolts each, impossible to do without taking the bumper off)
3. Remove all bulbs from headlamps.
4. Use a heat gun or bake the headlamps in the oven. Work on only one headlamp at a time! I found 250 degrees is a good temp. I left one in there for 15 minutes to see what would happen and it was fine. If you don’t think your oven temp is accurate 200 is good. Bake them for 8-10 minutes. Make sure you put foil on the baking sheet if you use one! The housing on the bare metal will probably melt. Don't worry about the small black venting tubes. Just make sure none fall if into the oven.
5. While baking or before heating place a soft cloth or towel down on your work area. This is so you don't scratch headlamp when you’re working on it with the clear lens face down.
6. If you baked them use an over mitt on your secondary hand to hold the headlamp from moving. The metal parts are going to be red hot! I find that a medium flat head screw driver works best. Make sure you don’t crack the grey plastic clips that help hold the lens to the housing. If it seems hard to pry apart then the sealant isn't hot enough yet! You will just end up bending the housing up all along the edge and this does not help when you reseal them.
7. When you do pull the lens off and you get strings of grey oem sealant don’t push it back into the housing! You'll just end up making it hard to push completely back together again. As long as you put enough new sealant in you'll be fine. I recommend Permatex Ultra Grey sealant. Good to 500 degrees, perfect for custom xenon setups. Squeeze a good bead in the housing. Make sure you heat the housing back up first if you don't have a heat gun. Then just push the lens on. The black sealant will glob out. DO NOT SMEAR IT OR WIPE IT!!! LET IT DRY!!!! When it does you can pull it right off with no damage to the lens. Never ever use Goo Gone to clean up any silicone sealant!! You will make a huge mess and ruin the housing. It just smears the silicone everywhere.
* I’ve been told that Nissan part # B6553-89915 is a black butyl rubber sealant same as the Honda OEM sealant.*
PAINTING TIPS
1. Sand the chrome off. This prevents the paint from chipping easily. Nothing worse then chipping the paint trying to get the trim piece back inside the lens. I recommend wet sanding them with 600 grit wet sand paper until most of the white plastic is exposed.
2. Take your time and mask everything carefully. Be sure to cover the bulb opening of the corner lens! If you don’t overspray will end up on the corner reflector.
3. Using a high temp engine enamel put about 5-6 coats on with about 15 minutes between them. I would use a flat not a gloss. The first coat is most important. The paint will not cover it the first time. Don’t worry. All you want to do is get some color on it. The next coat will completely cover the plastic. Don’t put too much paint on! It will run easily because of all the steep angles.
4. Allow at least 24 hrs after the last coat before handling them. You don’t want to chip the paint reassembling the trim back into the lens or pulling off the paint when you take the masking off.
5. Finally, make sure you pre-bake them or heat them. Most high temp paints will change color and release chemicals. This will make your headlamps foggy inside or make a rainbow like film inside. This is another reason to use a flat color. It will typically turn into a semi-gloss once it’s exposed to heat.
LENS REMOVAL
1. Take off your front bumper (if you don’t know how to do a search or by a helm manual. you should buy one anyways)
2. Unbolt the headlamps. (6 bolts each, impossible to do without taking the bumper off)
3. Remove all bulbs from headlamps.
4. Use a heat gun or bake the headlamps in the oven. Work on only one headlamp at a time! I found 250 degrees is a good temp. I left one in there for 15 minutes to see what would happen and it was fine. If you don’t think your oven temp is accurate 200 is good. Bake them for 8-10 minutes. Make sure you put foil on the baking sheet if you use one! The housing on the bare metal will probably melt. Don't worry about the small black venting tubes. Just make sure none fall if into the oven.
5. While baking or before heating place a soft cloth or towel down on your work area. This is so you don't scratch headlamp when you’re working on it with the clear lens face down.
6. If you baked them use an over mitt on your secondary hand to hold the headlamp from moving. The metal parts are going to be red hot! I find that a medium flat head screw driver works best. Make sure you don’t crack the grey plastic clips that help hold the lens to the housing. If it seems hard to pry apart then the sealant isn't hot enough yet! You will just end up bending the housing up all along the edge and this does not help when you reseal them.
7. When you do pull the lens off and you get strings of grey oem sealant don’t push it back into the housing! You'll just end up making it hard to push completely back together again. As long as you put enough new sealant in you'll be fine. I recommend Permatex Ultra Grey sealant. Good to 500 degrees, perfect for custom xenon setups. Squeeze a good bead in the housing. Make sure you heat the housing back up first if you don't have a heat gun. Then just push the lens on. The black sealant will glob out. DO NOT SMEAR IT OR WIPE IT!!! LET IT DRY!!!! When it does you can pull it right off with no damage to the lens. Never ever use Goo Gone to clean up any silicone sealant!! You will make a huge mess and ruin the housing. It just smears the silicone everywhere.
* I’ve been told that Nissan part # B6553-89915 is a black butyl rubber sealant same as the Honda OEM sealant.*
PAINTING TIPS
1. Sand the chrome off. This prevents the paint from chipping easily. Nothing worse then chipping the paint trying to get the trim piece back inside the lens. I recommend wet sanding them with 600 grit wet sand paper until most of the white plastic is exposed.
2. Take your time and mask everything carefully. Be sure to cover the bulb opening of the corner lens! If you don’t overspray will end up on the corner reflector.
3. Using a high temp engine enamel put about 5-6 coats on with about 15 minutes between them. I would use a flat not a gloss. The first coat is most important. The paint will not cover it the first time. Don’t worry. All you want to do is get some color on it. The next coat will completely cover the plastic. Don’t put too much paint on! It will run easily because of all the steep angles.
4. Allow at least 24 hrs after the last coat before handling them. You don’t want to chip the paint reassembling the trim back into the lens or pulling off the paint when you take the masking off.
5. Finally, make sure you pre-bake them or heat them. Most high temp paints will change color and release chemicals. This will make your headlamps foggy inside or make a rainbow like film inside. This is another reason to use a flat color. It will typically turn into a semi-gloss once it’s exposed to heat.
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10-11-2004, 12:49 AM
#12
...if I had the money.
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Originally Posted by h2o-pr00f
99CL = IS THAT THAT I THINK IT IS... MORE COWBELL?
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