How Many Pounds of Boost is safe
#1
fear and Loathing
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How Many Pounds of Boost is safe
OK on a H22 USDM with head work complete but no bottom end work, how many pounds ot safe how many is to much??? i was thinking 12-14 is safe???
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Originally Posted by wilp99
5-8 all day 10-12 at the track. you need to beef up the bottm end pimp.after that prolly 10-12 all day 15-20 track.
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#8
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there is no definite saying as to how "safe" it is to boost a stock h22. it's all about the tuning. regardless of the ammount of boost you're running, the stock pistons are quite prone to cracking/exploding under boost. even with a nice tune, the question is "how long will your pistons last?" i'm not saying it's impossible to boost an h22 with a stock bottom end, because there are people boosting 10+ lbs daily without problems. however, why risk blowing your motor? the smarter thing to do is to build your motor, that way you can boost more, and have a more "reliable" setup compared to stock (of course with a good tune).
i know a handful of people who have blown their stock h22's.
i know a handful of people who have blown their stock h22's.
#9
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Originally Posted by lnsyone
there is no definite saying as to how "safe" it is to boost a stock h22. it's all about the tuning. regardless of the ammount of boost you're running, the stock pistons are quite prone to cracking/exploding under boost. even with a nice tune, the question is "how long will your pistons last?" i'm not saying it's impossible to boost an h22 with a stock bottom end, because there are people boosting 10+ lbs daily without problems. however, why risk blowing your motor? the smarter thing to do is to build your motor, that way you can boost more, and have a more "reliable" setup compared to stock (of course with a good tune).
i know a handful of people who have blown their stock h22's.
i know a handful of people who have blown their stock h22's.
#11
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Thank you. i am just getting ancy sitting here with all these parts. i wanted to justr build the head with the parts i have but at the same times i dont want to blow shit up. in the summer and spring it is my daily driver caues i hate driving my jeep incase i see some kid who wants to throw down and race. so i guess i will have to resleeve and get pistons, what kind do yo9u suggest?? Also thre wet kit is a bad idea for the h22. reason i say this is when u are putting tghe no2 in the intake the wet collects in the bottom of the intake mani. then you can blow things up. in the book i have from honda about tuning the h22 it tells you that the dry kit is perfectly safe, but i dont like no2 so i wont have that problem
#12
One custom CL
Lets put it this way. Without bottom end work you cannot boost a 10:0:1 compression USDM H22. JDM 10:6:1 are even worst. The safest you can run is 5-8lbs knowing that very soon you will part with your engine. You cannot boost any h22 without investing major mula.
#13
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If you don't want to risk blowing your motor, your best bet is to have it built.
Along with a built motor, you'll need a good engine management unit + tuner.
- Your setup is only as good as what you have. Make sure to have quality, yet efficient parts necessary for your setup.
- If you're looking into re-sleeving your block, you can start by looking into: AEBS; Benson; ERL; Darton; Golden Eagle; etc. They all make quality sleeves. I can't really say which one is the "best", because I don't have first hand knowledge of each of their sleeving processes. Some are rated to a certain ammount of power. Some are designed differently. IMO, it's all comes down to your personal preference. Each of these sleeves will get the job done with your satisfaction.
- As for pistons, you can look into: CP; JE; Wiseco; etc
- As for rods, you can look into: Crower; Eagle; Manley; Pauter; etc
Along with a built motor, you'll need a good engine management unit + tuner.
- Your setup is only as good as what you have. Make sure to have quality, yet efficient parts necessary for your setup.
- If you're looking into re-sleeving your block, you can start by looking into: AEBS; Benson; ERL; Darton; Golden Eagle; etc. They all make quality sleeves. I can't really say which one is the "best", because I don't have first hand knowledge of each of their sleeving processes. Some are rated to a certain ammount of power. Some are designed differently. IMO, it's all comes down to your personal preference. Each of these sleeves will get the job done with your satisfaction.
- As for pistons, you can look into: CP; JE; Wiseco; etc
- As for rods, you can look into: Crower; Eagle; Manley; Pauter; etc
#14
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Originally Posted by ShavedH22CL
in the summer and spring it is my daily driver caues i hate driving my jeep incase i see some kid who wants to throw down and race.
Originally Posted by ShavedH22CL
speed is like comedy 2 me
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#15
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Originally Posted by ShavedH22CL
Also thre wet kit is a bad idea for the h22. reason i say this is when u are putting tghe no2 in the intake the wet collects in the bottom of the intake mani. then you can blow things up. in the book i have from honda about tuning the h22 it tells you that the dry kit is perfectly safe, but i dont like no2 so i wont have that problem
A dry system uses a spray nozzle to deliver nitrous only, into the intake. A wet system delivers both fuel and nitrous into the intake manifold. With a dry system, the additional fuel is supplied by increasing fuel delivery from the injectors when the nitrous system is activated. It is called a dry system because there isn't any fuel present in the intake manifold.
Too lazy to explain.. Read this: http://www.barrygrant.com/nitrous/de...aspx?page=115b
#20
Originally Posted by xrunner86x
10.5 PSI with a t3/t4b was too much for me, even with a low compression head gasket
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#21
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on a stock h22 ? NO !!! 5-8 all day yes, nothing over 11 pounds !!! PERIOD. Do some research and you'll see why.
Originally Posted by ayougo
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#22
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If you have a older obd1 h22 block I would think about upgrading your rods/pistons. The older ones are safer to boost being that they are closed deck. The new obd2 blocks are open deck more prone to cylinder walk. Building the motor to handle boost would be a good decision to make from the begining. Keep in mind engine management plays a big part. Get a good tuner and a good management unit and you'll be good to go.
#23
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Yea i got a hondata s300 for the managment sys. and the motor is from a 94 ludski usdm. i was goin to just do head work but u guys have convinced me to do the bottom end work also i dont want to blow my investment up.
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get bottom built. if you have good tunning you can run 10-12 and up to 15 but alot of dyno time, but the rings are the first to go then rods pistons. but they all say its a matter of time before the rings go at theses levels. if you go thicker hg lower comp. you can run 10-15 on pump gas and 20 on race. but after checking your posts on here just get the block built and hondata and tune that way it will be harder for you to blow up!
looks like you got the race bug! good luck
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#27
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Originally Posted by wontonjohnny
shouldnt the question be how much power is safe on a stock motor. cause 10psi on a small turbo is not the same as 10psi on a larger turbo. right?
#28
yeah well im gonna do my car at 10 psi, i dunno what kinda power its gonna make because its a custom kit made from ebay parts. im thinking 250whp should be safe on stock internals, head gasket and studs.
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#30
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Originally Posted by Dagreen
get bottom built. if you have good tunning you can run 10-12 and up to 15 but alot of dyno time, but the rings are the first to go then rods pistons. but they all say its a matter of time before the rings go at theses levels. if you go thicker hg lower comp. you can run 10-15 on pump gas and 20 on race. but after checking your posts on here just get the block built and hondata and tune that way it will be harder for you to blow up!
looks like you got the race bug! good luck ![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
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