check engine light.....dont know what happened...
check engine light.....dont know what happened...
I was driving down the street at about 40 when all of a sudden, the check engine light came on. I listened to my car at idle, and nothing seems to sound funny. I did a search and in another post, the member said that the dealer said something was wrong with his fuel injectors. Not sure if that helps. Ive got about 126k miles on my car and i have never had a problem (not even tranny) with my car until now(not really a problem, i just dont like seeing that light on). Sort of scared. What should I do? What should I check for when i look under the hood? Could it be a tranny problem?(Uh-Oh! Hope not,)
P.S. Car seems to drive fine, just need to see what this light is all about. Help me please.
P.S.S. Is my car ok to drive while this light is on?
P.S. Car seems to drive fine, just need to see what this light is all about. Help me please.
P.S.S. Is my car ok to drive while this light is on?
Instructions on how to find out the check engine light code.
Underneath your glove compartment there is a blue connector. It is towards the passenger side of the car. After you find it it must be unconnected. Once it is disconnected get a paper clip and connect one end of the paper in one hole and the other end in the other hole. Next put your key in the ignition and turn it to II (not all the way on) while the paper clip is in both holes of the blue connector. The check engine light will turn off for a second and then blink the engine code for the problem. Long flashes are 10 and short flashes are ones. Ex. you see 6 long flashes and 5 short flashes= engine code 65. If you don't see it the first time don't worry it will repeat over and over until the car is turned off. Once you get the code turn the car off. Connect the blue connector to its proper place. Post the code yu got here and some one will help you out. The codes are also posted on niedejb's home page.
Underneath your glove compartment there is a blue connector. It is towards the passenger side of the car. After you find it it must be unconnected. Once it is disconnected get a paper clip and connect one end of the paper in one hole and the other end in the other hole. Next put your key in the ignition and turn it to II (not all the way on) while the paper clip is in both holes of the blue connector. The check engine light will turn off for a second and then blink the engine code for the problem. Long flashes are 10 and short flashes are ones. Ex. you see 6 long flashes and 5 short flashes= engine code 65. If you don't see it the first time don't worry it will repeat over and over until the car is turned off. Once you get the code turn the car off. Connect the blue connector to its proper place. Post the code yu got here and some one will help you out. The codes are also posted on niedejb's home page.
thanx for the tip...ill do that and get back to the board. has anyone else come across this problem? just wondering what kind of problems other members came across with the engine light.
OK....i have done what dcsquirm88 has suggested(thanx again for the help dcsquirm88). it is either 17 or 8. pretty sure its 17, but just to simplify things for myself and everyone else that has come across this problem, can someone tell me what both means. according to niedejb's home page(nice ass page
) 17 means vehicle speed sensor malfunction and 8 means Top Dead Center Sensor Malfunction. Doesnt sound too bad but, Whoa!!! i dont know what to do for either one.
Can someone fill me in on what I should do for either engine light problem?
) 17 means vehicle speed sensor malfunction and 8 means Top Dead Center Sensor Malfunction. Doesnt sound too bad but, Whoa!!! i dont know what to do for either one.
Can someone fill me in on what I should do for either engine light problem?
For either one, I'd reset the ecu and see if it comes back. If its a bad sensor the light will come back. Ive seen the TDC error on my brothers car and reseting made it go away. Not sure on the vehicle speed sensor.
To reset the ecu, write the radio codes down if you have a stock head unit, pull the 7.5 amp fuse under the hood (radio backup), put the fuse back in.
CEL should have disappeared. Try it and drive again.
To reset the ecu, write the radio codes down if you have a stock head unit, pull the 7.5 amp fuse under the hood (radio backup), put the fuse back in.
CEL should have disappeared. Try it and drive again.
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Originally posted by Casper98CL
it may even be a simple OIL CHANGE!
it may even be a simple OIL CHANGE!
I removed the 7.5 radio fuse and plugged it back in. And yes...the engine light did go off (thanx niedejb). Another question I have is, what does engine code 17(vehicle speed sensor malfunction) and 8 (Top Dead Center Sensor Malfunction) mean? Does resetting the ECU just delay the problem or does it actually solve it? Sorry for being such a nOOb, but Im just curious.
hey and by the way get an original name too
jk
copy cat
check it out i think it might be your egr vavles, they could be getting clogged up, they are covered under teh emmisions control warrenty, i got mine done 4 onths ago. the warrenty is up to 150k. so take advantage of the free parts
jk
copy catcheck it out i think it might be your egr vavles, they could be getting clogged up, they are covered under teh emmisions control warrenty, i got mine done 4 onths ago. the warrenty is up to 150k. so take advantage of the free parts
Originally posted by 97Acura3.0CL
hey and by the way get an original name too
jk
copy cat
check it out i think it might be your egr vavles, they could be getting clogged up, they are covered under teh emmisions control warrenty, i got mine done 4 onths ago. the warrenty is up to 150k. so take advantage of the free parts
hey and by the way get an original name too
jk
copy catcheck it out i think it might be your egr vavles, they could be getting clogged up, they are covered under teh emmisions control warrenty, i got mine done 4 onths ago. the warrenty is up to 150k. so take advantage of the free parts
I called dibs on this name. hehehe...j/k....I just dont post that often because i use the search function all the time....but its all good. theres enough room and topics on this board for the both of us.
150k...hmm..i thought our warranty was up at 120k...but thanx for the advice...
P.S. Do you have a blue CL? if you do, you copied me....hehe
Originally posted by '97Acura3.0CL
Another question I have is, what does engine code 17(vehicle speed sensor malfunction) and 8 (Top Dead Center Sensor Malfunction) mean? Does resetting the ECU just delay the problem or does it actually solve it? Sorry for being such a nOOb, but Im just curious.
Another question I have is, what does engine code 17(vehicle speed sensor malfunction) and 8 (Top Dead Center Sensor Malfunction) mean? Does resetting the ECU just delay the problem or does it actually solve it? Sorry for being such a nOOb, but Im just curious.
Reseting the ecu just makes the codes/error go away. If the sensor is indeed bad the light will come back on.
Originally posted by niedejb
The codes mean the sensors arent functioning properly. Could be a fluke thing that never comes back.
Reseting the ecu just makes the codes/error go away. If the sensor is indeed bad the light will come back on.
The codes mean the sensors arent functioning properly. Could be a fluke thing that never comes back.
Reseting the ecu just makes the codes/error go away. If the sensor is indeed bad the light will come back on.
i think you have a EGR valve problem which is common on the 97's and some 98. Acura has extended the warranty on the emission so it'll be free for you to get it fixed.
the check engine light will come back on in a couple of hundred miles. take her into the dealer and i'm sure that's what's happening.
the check engine light will come back on in a couple of hundred miles. take her into the dealer and i'm sure that's what's happening.
Originally posted by niedejb
Neither of these codes are for the EGR system
Neither of these codes are for the EGR system
Sounds right. Heard of them getting plugged.
Dont know if theres a recall or not for those, but someone here might.
If theres not and you dont have a warranty, I can probably walk you through getting it working.
Dont know if theres a recall or not for those, but someone here might.
If theres not and you dont have a warranty, I can probably walk you through getting it working.
Originally posted by niedejb
Sounds right. Heard of them getting plugged.
Dont know if theres a recall or not for those, but someone here might.
If theres not and you dont have a warranty, I can probably walk you through getting it working.
Sounds right. Heard of them getting plugged.
Dont know if theres a recall or not for those, but someone here might.
If theres not and you dont have a warranty, I can probably walk you through getting it working.
Originally posted by niedejb
Sounds right. Heard of them getting plugged.
Dont know if theres a recall or not for those, but someone here might.
If theres not and you dont have a warranty, I can probably walk you through getting it working.
Sounds right. Heard of them getting plugged.
Dont know if theres a recall or not for those, but someone here might.
If theres not and you dont have a warranty, I can probably walk you through getting it working.
Originally posted by niedejb
Ive got a spare manifold I can pull apart and snap pics as I go.
Will do ASAP after work tonight.
(Was planning on disabling EGR for my new engine build)
Ive got a spare manifold I can pull apart and snap pics as I go.
Will do ASAP after work tonight.
(Was planning on disabling EGR for my new engine build)
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