OBs

I just bought an 10" Alpine Type X and a Kicker KX850.2 and the sub worked for a few days fine and now the amp will only stay on at low volumes. My friend thinks it's because I'm not running enough power to the sub since the RMS per voice coil is 500-1000 RMS, but I'm not sure. Anyone have these speakers with a similar problem or know of any reason this could happen. I've checked the ground and all the wiring, the voice coils aren't blown and the sub is wired correctly so I'm out of ideas. Gonna try hooking it up to a 2500w amp tomorrow and see if that is the problem.

Any help would be great.

wilp99

how big is the fuse? amp like that needs atleast a 60amp fuse. and those tube fuses suck. wafer is where its at.

OBs

Its a 150amp fuse.. my boy had the same problem I'm having now and he said it's because he wasn't running enough power to it. Now he's running a 2500 watt mono to it and it's pounding now. So maybe I'll sell the amp and buy something bigger after I see that it works.

wilp99

2500w on a 10. i need to look into these.. im bout to buy my boys 15" l7 solo's w/box for 300$ i cant wait..i need more bump. but now i gots to get a new amp to push them hoes.

OBs

Type X's are compared to the W7's.. they have a 3000watt peak, 2500w at 2 ohms will be nothing to a 4 ohm stable sub

OBs

Bass alert — Alpine's Type-X subwoofers bring the ultimate combination of power and performance to your sound system. Engineered with high output in mind, Alpine's top-of-the-line subs handle a mind-blowing 3,000 watts of peak power, while still reproducing the tight, low frequency detail that means great bass.

The SWX-1042D 10" subwoofer provides full bass by squeezing every last millimeter of excursion from the carbon fiber/aluminum honeycomb cone, thanks to its high-roll Santoprene rubber surround. Read more

Details:

carbon fiber/aluminum honeycomb cone
high-roll Santoprene rubber surround
cast aluminum frame
dual 4-ohm voice coils
frequency response 24-200 Hz
power range 500-1,000 watts RMS (500 watts per coil)
peak power handling 3,000 watts
sensitivity 81 dB
top-mount depth 8-5/8"
sealed box volume: 0.5-1.0 cubic feet
ported box volume: 0.8-1.5 cubic feet

caldeesnutss

dont forget to dynamat car and wear your ear plugs to massive beats from your speakers.

DA_ILLEST_2.2

the kicker 15L7 thumps hard I only have like 600 watts going to mine and my shyt hits hard plus i have a 3.0 cubic ft box plus port...... hope your shyt is dynamat'd nothing like bass sound good before the car gets there and once it goes past all u here is shyt rattling

wilp99

is that for one 15l7, cause i got a rockford punch 800a2 (oldschool i know) but do you think that will move two l7's at all.

OBs

Well my sub moved for 2 days with a new amp and then it stopped cuz I wasn't running enough power. Now I'm running 2500 watts to it and it's fine. Kinda weird huh?

CL'er

obs, check the output of your deck. it could be set to a low "non-fader output". I have 2 10" Type X's and iam running it on a 1500.2 MTX and they only pump 800watts into each sub but they still pound like crazy. Also check all your dials on the side "gain. EQ. FREQ" adjust those dials will also increase your output but it may distort the sound.

OBs

Alright thanks. I'll do that today and see if it works with the kicker amp.

OBs

I just don't understand why the sub would work for 2 days at 850w and then just stop. There's no shorts or anything, I've rewired it twice now. Maybe I'll take it to a professional and see what they say?

CL'er

Well, my next thing to check is to see if the wiring job on the inside of the ACTUAL BOX is connected, if strands of wire or the wrong size of wire was used on the insde of the box to connect to the spk. It would fuck up, if you had it pounding to much it could of loosen the connector, Happends all the time.


Also if you have a volt meter with a OHM setting on it set it to 200K and put the red to red and black to black on the speaker terminal and check what the ohmage of the sub is at. if its new it should read like 1.2 to 3.4 rougly. Check the wiring from the Sub terminal to the actuall speaker cone could be broken also. (yes pull the sub out the box.)

OBs

Its weird because the sub is supposed to run at 4 ohms but the manual only shows how to hook the sub up at 8 ohms or 2 ohms with 1 amp. With 2 amps it shows you how to set it up at 4 ohms, so the whole thing is kind of screwed up anyway I guess.

CL'er

well to hook it up at 4 ohms all you do is take + and - from the AMP on 1 Channel into 1 of the 2 terminals on the X. for 2 ohm load most likly you'll need to bridge the amp to and hook up the + and - to terinmal 1 and jump from terminal 1 to terminal 2 on the back of X, with the + and -.
what would make sense as to why your shit isn't working correctly is you got you amp not bridged and running your X at 2Ohms