Alarm and system advice
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Alarm and system advice
If you don't already know, I have a thread about how my car got broken into and my dual 10 inch subs and box as well as my two amps were stolen. Well my mom who came into a nice lump of money from a real estate transaction she just completed gave me $680.00!!! dollars to get an alarm and replace my system and try to replace my door, but she said if I need more for the door (which I will) to let her know. First of all, I know $680 isn't nearly enough to get a top quality alarm AND replace my system not alone fixing the door, but I didn't bring that up to my mom, she's the best and I'm really grateful and don't want her to fell as if she didn't give me enough.
Anyways, I was thinking about it and I think if used wisely the $680 could be enough to get the alarm and to patch up my sound system a bit. Honestly the fairly big box with two subs in my trunk was at times was annoying and made me wish I went with a single 12 instead of dual 10's. Also the weight definitely wasn't helping (btw, my car feels faster since my subs/box/amps got robbed).
First of all, do any of you have any reccomendations for alarms? From searches I've done The viper 791XV gets reccomended alot do you guys agree with this. I especially like how it pages you if something is going on. Are any of the ones sold at Etronics any good? Etronics Link
Now for Audio
I am planning to use a 4 channel amp to power my pair of front speakers and a single 12 inch sub. I was thinking I could bridge two of the channels together to power the sub. And use two channels to power the front speakers.Would this combo work together well, in your opinion (I could get it for a total of $250 shipped)
Pioneer GM-6100F 4 Channel Amplifier
• 60 Watts x 4, at 4 ohms <= 1% THD+N
• 150 Watts x 2, at 4 ohms BRIDGE <= 1% THD+N
Pioneer TS-WX121 12inch enclosed sub
MAX. Music Power 400W
Nominal Power Handling 100W
Anyways, I was thinking about it and I think if used wisely the $680 could be enough to get the alarm and to patch up my sound system a bit. Honestly the fairly big box with two subs in my trunk was at times was annoying and made me wish I went with a single 12 instead of dual 10's. Also the weight definitely wasn't helping (btw, my car feels faster since my subs/box/amps got robbed).
First of all, do any of you have any reccomendations for alarms? From searches I've done The viper 791XV gets reccomended alot do you guys agree with this. I especially like how it pages you if something is going on. Are any of the ones sold at Etronics any good? Etronics Link
Now for Audio
I am planning to use a 4 channel amp to power my pair of front speakers and a single 12 inch sub. I was thinking I could bridge two of the channels together to power the sub. And use two channels to power the front speakers.Would this combo work together well, in your opinion (I could get it for a total of $250 shipped)
Pioneer GM-6100F 4 Channel Amplifier
• 60 Watts x 4, at 4 ohms <= 1% THD+N
• 150 Watts x 2, at 4 ohms BRIDGE <= 1% THD+N
Pioneer TS-WX121 12inch enclosed sub
MAX. Music Power 400W
Nominal Power Handling 100W
#3
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i would reccomend DEI alarms (clifford, viper, etc) www.directed.com but yea like repo said if someone REALLy wants your car, theyre gonna find some way to get into it
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Get a pager alarm from either clifford or viper. I heard autopage is good as well.
It'll run you a couple of bucks though. Get an alarm prior to ANY mods.
Let this be a lesson to all.
Sorry to have to use you ( Zerostatic ) as an example.
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#8
Depends how pick you are with SQ. You're not going to turn many heads with that system.
It was $680 just to throw 1 JL12W3 with a 300.2 in my 97 CL3.0. You can easily spend twice as much using better quality components.
I would really focus on fixing your door. Doing that properly will cost you a large chunk of the money. I'd use the rest to replace the deck. Did they jack your components or just the subs? If they jacked the components then I'd spend some on replacing those. I'd opt for the alarm AFTER you get back to 'stock' condition. If you're in a horrid area and you're in danger of a stock-sounding system getting ripped, then I'd opt for the alarm before replacing the radio.
The sub really isn't feasible with your situation, sorry to say. Not unless you really don't give a shiz about what you throw in there. It seems like you do or you wouldn't be asking here.
It was $680 just to throw 1 JL12W3 with a 300.2 in my 97 CL3.0. You can easily spend twice as much using better quality components.
I would really focus on fixing your door. Doing that properly will cost you a large chunk of the money. I'd use the rest to replace the deck. Did they jack your components or just the subs? If they jacked the components then I'd spend some on replacing those. I'd opt for the alarm AFTER you get back to 'stock' condition. If you're in a horrid area and you're in danger of a stock-sounding system getting ripped, then I'd opt for the alarm before replacing the radio.
The sub really isn't feasible with your situation, sorry to say. Not unless you really don't give a shiz about what you throw in there. It seems like you do or you wouldn't be asking here.
#9
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Originally Posted by ominous
I'd use the rest to replace the deck. Did they jack your components or just the subs?
Originally Posted by ominous
The sub really isn't feasible with your situation, sorry to say. Not unless you really don't give a shiz about what you throw in there. It seems like you do or you wouldn't be asking here.
The above amp and enclosed sub cost just under $250 from Etronics (it cost considerably more at other stores I checked).
The Viper alarm I was looking at was just under $200.
Install is gonna be the killer though.
The door will cost a nice chunk but I am expecting another $150 dollars that is owed to me, and my mom did say if I needed more for the door she'll help me out.
BTW, as proof as to what smart shopping can accomplish
my entire system (before I got jacked) w/ shipping came out to about $820. (That's a HU, 4 speakers, 2 10 inch subs, and 2 amps), check my original thread below. Another $300 for install (they threw in the box for free.) and I had a pretty bad @ss sounding system. When I asked people to guess how much my system cost, everybody would guess around double and I wouldn't of traded it for alot of my friends/cousins systems which they had usually paid hundreds more then what I paid. The main thing is getting it properly installed and tuned right, after that you just have to be smart about what you buy. For example despite Pioneers reputation for mediocre in amps and subs, from reasearch, and first hand experience I've found that their subs are actually very good for the money. Their amps on the other hand do under-perform at times so I'm still doubting the choice i made above with that pioneer amp, and I might go with JBL (another really good value brand), but I'm going to do some internet hunting across some different messageboards so I can read some first hand accounts of people that actually have had that specific amp.
Acura-CL link to when I was getting my original system installed
#10
I'm very glad to hear they only got the subs and amps. So you still have your full deck and your components. I thought I saw a pic of a radio carcass ripped out but I guess I was looking at something else.
$680 will be enough to get something modest but I'm not so sure I'd get pioneer. Thing is, there's a brand of speaker I was told about that directly competes with 12W7, is a fraction of the price and is actually a SQ sub. I'm trying to find the brand I was told again but it's something very uncommon and unknown. It starts with a M, and I'll try to find it. If you really want a deal, this will be it. But if you want a brand that's well known, that's something else.
Do you need brand identity?
$680 will be enough to get something modest but I'm not so sure I'd get pioneer. Thing is, there's a brand of speaker I was told about that directly competes with 12W7, is a fraction of the price and is actually a SQ sub. I'm trying to find the brand I was told again but it's something very uncommon and unknown. It starts with a M, and I'll try to find it. If you really want a deal, this will be it. But if you want a brand that's well known, that's something else.
Do you need brand identity?
#11
Peace, Love & Acura
Fix the door, then worry about your sound. Maybe you should consider one of those alarms that zaps the fucker when he tries to gank your shit. 50,000 volts should get 'em a rise.
#12
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Originally Posted by ajtcl
Fix the door, then worry about your sound. Maybe you should consider one of those alarms that zaps the fucker when he tries to gank your shit. 50,000 volts should get 'em a rise.
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