Air Ride.
03-08-2004, 03:35 AM
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Air Ride.
I'm looking into air ride and i'm wondering what setup would be the best. I know that air ride tech has the air strut. I've seen some on ebay that have cylinder designs and claim to be not bouncy. I'm looking for the product with the best ride possible. What setups do you currently have/had?? What are your guys opinions on em.
getting mine soon...need some insight.....
03-08-2004, 11:27 PM
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you talking about www.ridetech.com right?
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03-11-2004, 10:42 PM
#17
Well, I dunno...
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03-11-2004, 11:08 PM
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I'm pretty set on getting these tho. http://www.ridetech.com/productinfo/airstrut.asp
03-11-2004, 11:19 PM
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Originally posted by DA_ILLEST_2.2
hey katana how much ya air system setup run you and where did you get it from????
hey katana how much ya air system setup run you and where did you get it from????
03-12-2004, 12:01 AM
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Well, according to air ride tech "The AirStrut™ offers valving adjustment at the top of the strut stem... under the hood where it is accessible, not under the car. This valving adjustment means that you can choose soft for ride quality and cruising, all the way to full firm for autocrossing and ultimate handling performance."
03-12-2004, 02:12 AM
#27
Still trolling
Guys, you are way off.
You can't bag our cars, and air struts are crap. You have to use cylinders to maintain the geometry of our front ends since you remove the spring and shock. You can bag them, but you have to rebuild teh front suspension area to add shocks and braces.
Since it's air, and you ahve switches to control the amount of PSI in the cylinders, there are no valve adjustments, you have that in the car with your switches. Add or remove air for the height you want. The lower the better handling, but watch out for crappy roads.
You can't bag our cars, and air struts are crap. You have to use cylinders to maintain the geometry of our front ends since you remove the spring and shock. You can bag them, but you have to rebuild teh front suspension area to add shocks and braces.
Since it's air, and you ahve switches to control the amount of PSI in the cylinders, there are no valve adjustments, you have that in the car with your switches. Add or remove air for the height you want. The lower the better handling, but watch out for crappy roads.
03-12-2004, 06:08 AM
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Originally posted by DA_ILLEST_2.2
hey katana how much ya air system setup run you and where did you get it from????
hey katana how much ya air system setup run you and where did you get it from????
03-12-2004, 09:19 AM
#30
fellow MASShole
Originally posted by Katana18
But its all worth it, when u're sitting at the light, chicks are checking out your car, and then all of a sudden u hit the switches, the air goes "pssssssssst" really loud, and your car, along with their jaws, drops to the floor. I cant tell you how many times i've seen this on peoples faces with my air ride ~~~~~~~>
But its all worth it, when u're sitting at the light, chicks are checking out your car, and then all of a sudden u hit the switches, the air goes "pssssssssst" really loud, and your car, along with their jaws, drops to the floor. I cant tell you how many times i've seen this on peoples faces with my air ride ~~~~~~~>
ide have the biggest pimp grin on my face if i could do that dayumm i need loot
03-12-2004, 01:28 PM
#32
DamnThisHobby'sExpensive!
If i got it, i'd wait and get it used...no way would i spend $3K for that setup....I mean, whats more practicle? A airride system, or a used motorcycle? lol
03-12-2004, 05:24 PM
#33
Still trolling
Originally posted by DA_ILLEST_2.2
suXor how much did you pay for your whole setup and maybe you can direct me to a good place to look @ prices?
suXor how much did you pay for your whole setup and maybe you can direct me to a good place to look @ prices?
You can order most everything online:
- Compressor(s) - Stick with 100% duty Viar compressors, the more CFM the better.
- Cylinders - They are all universal, so get 4" for the front and 3" for the rear. Stick with Blojax, as they seem to be the best around right now for the money
- 1997 Accord brackets/plates for the cylinders. These are top plates to match our shock tower bolt holes, and lower forks to mount to the lower control arms. Be sure to find the plates that come with gaskets/absorbers. Sometimes they are sold seaperatly. Without them, it can be harsh on the car's unibody.
- Valves
- Depending on what you want to do, you could get as little as 4 (1 up/1 dn front | 1 up/1 dn rear), or as many as 10 (1 up/1 dn for each wheel for independent control, and 1 extra for each rear to tuck one of the rears for 3-wheel. You have to bottom fill the cylinder to lift the wheel off the ground).
- Stick with the SMC or better gold valves, at least 3/8". Most go with 1/2" though. - Air lines - Go with standard DOT line to match the size of the valves. Get enough. Map out your layout so you know how much you will need.
- Air tanks - Depending on where you are putting them, and the space you have to work with, the tank size(s) may vary. Regardless of your configuration, a minimum of 5 gallons total. You can do multiple tanks, hosed together, running off one compressor.
- Switches - Be creative and classy here. This isn't a damn lowerider truck. Don't get the :ghey: colored plastic box with the beer tap switches.... Get some nice switches (DPDT), and mount them.
- Gauges - There are digital and analog PSI gagues out there. It's up to you what you want, or if you want them at all. I have the top of the line digital, and they suck.... After a while, you know what you are riding at.
- Fittings - This is the fun, wish you would have had it done elsewhere part. Depending on all the shit you have, you will need fittings, bulk heads, elbows, etc. Good luck ordering just what you need online. However most towns have a store that sells air fittings. Both slip fit, and others...
Now hook all of it up, fill the tanks with air, and ride out.....
03-12-2004, 06:57 PM
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03-12-2004, 11:46 PM
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Originally posted by suXor
Guys, you are way off.
You can't bag our cars, and air struts are crap. You have to use cylinders to maintain the geometry of our front ends since you remove the spring and shock. You can bag them, but you have to rebuild teh front suspension area to add shocks and braces.
Since it's air, and you ahve switches to control the amount of PSI in the cylinders, there are no valve adjustments, you have that in the car with your switches. Add or remove air for the height you want. The lower the better handling, but watch out for crappy roads.
Guys, you are way off.
You can't bag our cars, and air struts are crap. You have to use cylinders to maintain the geometry of our front ends since you remove the spring and shock. You can bag them, but you have to rebuild teh front suspension area to add shocks and braces.
Since it's air, and you ahve switches to control the amount of PSI in the cylinders, there are no valve adjustments, you have that in the car with your switches. Add or remove air for the height you want. The lower the better handling, but watch out for crappy roads.
03-14-2004, 07:00 PM
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From what i read, blowjax cylinders are crap. Lowrider euro loves the eai cylinders which are parker's. As of now, the air strut combo appeals to me because of the adjustable stiffness. I'm either goin with an eai setup with a viair compressor or the complete air ride air strut setup for $3200.