97 CL3.0: 400W Amp killing electric? (won't start)
#1
97 CL3.0: 400W Amp killing electric? (won't start)
I put a fosgate 400.2 in my CL and ever since it has problems starting. I turn the key and it seems like something is shorting out. Engine doesn't crank, lights don't come on, slight clicking sound (though not always, or I'd think it was solenoid). Also while it's hooked up, occasionally I'll be driving and my speedometer will go from say 40mph to 20mph (even though I didn't change speed), the dashboard will start making a clicking sound, my radio gets reset back to requiring the code to use it (all while driving).
When I unhook the amp off the car, everything goes back to normal. No problems at all. I can start it and drive it and nothing is out of ordinary.
I bought a deep cycle optima battery to see if my original acura battery is at fault, unable to handle the load (it was still in there and working just fine actually). That did nothing, the same exact problem arises when I hook the amp. Some time shortly after having the amp hooked up, the car will flake out, won't start, etc. Though it usually starts once or twice after I hook it up and acts normal for a short time.
Anyone know what the hell is going on? I really want to keep my sub in the car (just a single JL 12W3V2D4). But the car really doesn't like it and I'm wondering what I might need to do to support this amp on the network. Other than power, there's nothing that this system is taking out of the car. But somehow taking the power it requires is far too much for the car. WTF can I do?
When I unhook the amp off the car, everything goes back to normal. No problems at all. I can start it and drive it and nothing is out of ordinary.
I bought a deep cycle optima battery to see if my original acura battery is at fault, unable to handle the load (it was still in there and working just fine actually). That did nothing, the same exact problem arises when I hook the amp. Some time shortly after having the amp hooked up, the car will flake out, won't start, etc. Though it usually starts once or twice after I hook it up and acts normal for a short time.
Anyone know what the hell is going on? I really want to keep my sub in the car (just a single JL 12W3V2D4). But the car really doesn't like it and I'm wondering what I might need to do to support this amp on the network. Other than power, there's nothing that this system is taking out of the car. But somehow taking the power it requires is far too much for the car. WTF can I do?
#2
Couldn't edit, site went down and went past 5min.. forgot:
I took it to the acura dealer (after unhooking the amp/speakers, shh) and complained about the car not starting, etc. They tested the battery (original acura at the time) and alternator and whatnot, everything came back in perfect working order. Alternator is sparkin just fine, battery had charge and held it, no sensors showed up on the computer, etc..
I have an appointment with Sound FX (who installed it, cause I'm lazy, meh) so they can try to figure out why it's fuxing up but I have no faith they'll figure it out. They're not really exceptionally good at this stuff, they just do very clean installs.. Any ammo I can give them about 97 CL3.0? Maybe the electric system was just poorly designed and can't handle a system well? Should I downgrade my amp even though it's modest?
I took it to the acura dealer (after unhooking the amp/speakers, shh) and complained about the car not starting, etc. They tested the battery (original acura at the time) and alternator and whatnot, everything came back in perfect working order. Alternator is sparkin just fine, battery had charge and held it, no sensors showed up on the computer, etc..
I have an appointment with Sound FX (who installed it, cause I'm lazy, meh) so they can try to figure out why it's fuxing up but I have no faith they'll figure it out. They're not really exceptionally good at this stuff, they just do very clean installs.. Any ammo I can give them about 97 CL3.0? Maybe the electric system was just poorly designed and can't handle a system well? Should I downgrade my amp even though it's modest?
#3
Tristate ViP Crew
I'm running a 1200 Watt amp and no problem. The problem seems like its coming from the crack heads who did the install. Sounds like they reversed a few wires from the battery to the amp.
#4
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Originally Posted by CL Platano
I'm running a 1200 Watt amp and no problem. The problem seems like its coming from the crack heads who did the install. Sounds like they reversed a few wires from the battery to the amp.
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#8
Hi, I lost the link to this site hehe, found!
I had it installed by SoundFX in my city. I'm not sure how quality the install is, all I can tell you is they're very clean. All wires are bound, out of the way and hidden. Amp is mounted solidly behind the back seat (in the trunk) and there's only a box sitting there with a speaker facing backwards (amp behind the box blocked from view). There's just one wire coming out of the amp which goes to the box. Remote, battery, etc all run without screwing up my molding or being visible anywhere in the cabin. Very very clean.
Now, I don't know if they used a good ground but I brought it back to them since I posted this. I had a regular original acura battery in there (97) that came with the car so I guess you can say it's seen better days. I replaced it with an optima deep cycle in hopes it will be able to handle the extra load.
I installed the battery and powered it up, started up fine. I ran down the street to the gas station and it died, wouldn't start, kept doing the same exact starting problem. Clicking at me here and there (in a solenoidy way), but wasn't consistently making any beep or click. Sometimes it would just do nothing, just plain cold dead.
I unhooked the system and the car ran perfectly fine. I managed to get it started at the gas station with it still hooked up though, just slapping at the battery cables.
Since then I brought it in and gave them a look at it. They said my battery cable was kinda loose (no shit, just took it off 50 times trying to figure out WTF is wrong). That's all they came up with. Since I got it back though, it hasn't died on me. System is still hooked up and all is normal so far.
Basicly I'm just waiting for it to kill my car again...
Anyhow I'll repost if something else happens but thanks for the replies. They may have found out their grounding was terrible and fixed it and didn't mention it. Who knows.. All kids work there from 18-20 so I doubt they're interested in admitting they fucked something up ;-).
( ( ( O ) ) )
I had it installed by SoundFX in my city. I'm not sure how quality the install is, all I can tell you is they're very clean. All wires are bound, out of the way and hidden. Amp is mounted solidly behind the back seat (in the trunk) and there's only a box sitting there with a speaker facing backwards (amp behind the box blocked from view). There's just one wire coming out of the amp which goes to the box. Remote, battery, etc all run without screwing up my molding or being visible anywhere in the cabin. Very very clean.
Now, I don't know if they used a good ground but I brought it back to them since I posted this. I had a regular original acura battery in there (97) that came with the car so I guess you can say it's seen better days. I replaced it with an optima deep cycle in hopes it will be able to handle the extra load.
I installed the battery and powered it up, started up fine. I ran down the street to the gas station and it died, wouldn't start, kept doing the same exact starting problem. Clicking at me here and there (in a solenoidy way), but wasn't consistently making any beep or click. Sometimes it would just do nothing, just plain cold dead.
I unhooked the system and the car ran perfectly fine. I managed to get it started at the gas station with it still hooked up though, just slapping at the battery cables.
Since then I brought it in and gave them a look at it. They said my battery cable was kinda loose (no shit, just took it off 50 times trying to figure out WTF is wrong). That's all they came up with. Since I got it back though, it hasn't died on me. System is still hooked up and all is normal so far.
Basicly I'm just waiting for it to kill my car again...
Anyhow I'll repost if something else happens but thanks for the replies. They may have found out their grounding was terrible and fixed it and didn't mention it. Who knows.. All kids work there from 18-20 so I doubt they're interested in admitting they fucked something up ;-).
( ( ( O ) ) )
#9
blah blah blah
Originally Posted by e30cabrio
Man I hope this is not true I am about to take my 1200 watt system out of the cabrio & put it in the CL.
I'm running two 400 watt amps and one 800 and everything is fine in my car. I also have pullies installed two that underdrives the alt.
#10
97 was first gen and I was curious if they underestimated the power needs of the car. You have a 99cl (i assume) from your name so you might not have any of the problems my gen has. Are you sure the electric systems are similar enough to compare? It's all honda but first gens usually get the shaft in one way or another..
It's still running fine so I assume the kid just made a mistake in the wiring and fixed it without mentioning it.. Why would they mention they did it when they could have shorted my computer out and had been responsible? Anyhow thanks for the info on the car, I feel better about it being in the car.. for now
It's still running fine so I assume the kid just made a mistake in the wiring and fixed it without mentioning it.. Why would they mention they did it when they could have shorted my computer out and had been responsible? Anyhow thanks for the info on the car, I feel better about it being in the car.. for now
#11
Safety Car
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97/98/99's are all first gens.. all have the same alternator, 95% of them are the same, only minor differences..transmissions, sensors, console and some other stupid stuff.
#12
Peace, Love & Acura
If the amp is miss grounded, the effect is that of a bus undervolt. this is why your dash is flipping out. You need to make sure that the amp is properly grounded. I am assuming you are using the stock head unit. If this is the case, make sure they used the correct wire harness adaptor. If the wires are miss matched, you could do damage to your amp as well as the ECU in the car.
#15
it is still working fine so far (fingers crossed). starts up every day since I brought it back so I think you are all right and it was bad wiring that they found. the kid was sort of squeamish when I came back to pick it up, sort of looked guilty and was looking at me sideways. probably because I was there 4 times that week and was getting more angry each time eheh.. thanks for telling me what to look out for and if it gives me any more trouble I have some ammo to shoot back at them but I'm feeling lucky so far!
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