Skyhighsami

I've been reading about the 2010-2013 MDX mainly because I would rather have a 6 speed automatic. However I've also seen that they are notorious for burning oil. Is it all of those models or just some with certain VIN numbers? I really like the MDX and how easy it is to modify with a J pipe, K Tuner, PnP intake, intake tube, larger throttle body plus what I might be forgetting. All this makes it easy to more power, increase the braking power without breaking the bank from what I've seen. So far the only draw back is updating the audio system. If any owners of these 3 MY would please share their experience I would appreciate it. If I have overlooked anything please educate me. Thank you.

Skirmich

All of the 10-13 models have the new cylinder lining in their engines.. While its not a 100% rate MOST OF THEM will burn oil past 70-80k.
Also bear in mind the 6 speed as in the extra gear is a Lower 1st gear that you wont be in 99% of the time as the MDX will start in 2nd from a rolling start, The extra gear is for easier towing. The 6 speed 5-6 gears have the same ratio as the 4-5 in the 07-09 so the top speed, passing speed and cruising RPMs are virtually the same on all of the 2nd gen MDX.

As for adding power all of them are bolt on´s so there is no trouble in adding those parts.

Skyhighsami

So I should look for an 07-09 to avoid the oil consumption? With the J tube, test pipe, K tuner, intake setup would it make as much power as the 2010-2013? I am obviously not wanting an extremely fast vehicle for my wife, but I do want her to have something that makes good power. The CRV we have now doesn't have any aftermarket performance support. So I'm stuck with 162 hp. What are the primary differences between the 07-09 and 10-13? Thanks

Skirmich

I do not know why you mean with power? the J37 in the 07-09 is actually more powerful (by 5lb-ft of torque) than the engine in the 10-13 model.
You must also understand that the 2G MDX is VERY HEAVY SUV with an Active AWD system takes a lot of power to drive. Even then it will destroy your wife CR-V performance any day of the week so the upgrade and performance is there even in stock form on any 2G year, Its also a very agile car to drive fast if you know how to take full advantage of SH-AWD which is a performance oriented AWD System unlike the CR-V weather passive AWD system (If available).

The primary differences between the 2G Shield (07-09) vs the 2G Beak (10-13) are several but most of them come down to technology and feature comfort oriented….
Performance wise the 2G Beak has that extra gear to mainly help with towing and 0 to 60 (If you can actually make it launch in 1st) but the Engine has that known oil burning issue and the 6 speed trans is more tightly controlled by the ECU (You are locked out of 1st most of the time even in manual mode for example) than the 5 speed which can be fully manually actuated from 1st gear which makes launches consistent.

Both of them have the same exact performance bolt-ons available and both of them will make around the same power once upgraded.

Skirmich

IMHO you should buy what ever you like the most.. Just go in knowing the PROs and CONs of each version (Shield vs Beak) to avoid any surprises.
I am perfectly happy with my 07 and its the first year of the 2G MDX, I had zero issues with it and I even do touge and drive it pretty hard every day in manual mode.

Also the 2g MDX is pretty hard on MPGs…. Expect lower than the EPA Ratings for City, I get 9-11 city (While driving hard) and 17 if driving eco-mode but México city average speeds are lower than in the USA..
In highway I can actually get more than what the EPA suggest.. Even going as high as 30mpgs hwy.

Skyhighsami

She is actually considering a Q7 with the 3.0T and do all the APR mods. Or a Denali with a small cam and the LSA blower I was so excited to get an AWD K24 CRV but little did U know it had 0 aftermarket support. So I really want to get her something to modify

Jerryjohn

Hey: We have a 2013 MDX Tech with 60K miles, bought used in 2016 with 30K on the odometer. We have had zero problems until 50-60K miles. At 50 +/- K there was a rumbling, grinding noise that sounded like tires. I replaced 20K mile Continental Extreme Contact DWS tires with Cooper 3 season tires. Result, no change. Took it to a local dealer and they diagnosed a bad rear wheel bearing, and said the other side was beginning to go also. We replaced both rear wheel bearings and all is well. That was a little over $ 900.00. I dont think thats too bad for 30 K miles maintenance costs. HOWEVER. I was certain that the maintenance reminder was wildly optimistic calling for oil changes at 12 - 15K miles. There are only 4 1/2 quarts of oil in the V6 engine. My procedure is to change the engine oil and filter, preceeded by LiquiMoly Engine Cleanse every 3-5 K miles. Our MDX burns / uses 0 oil between changes, and the oil still shows clean on the dipstick at change time. It costs about $ 30.00 for the oil, $ 12.00 for the LiquiMoly Engine Cleanse and $ 12.00 or so for a Purolator Engine Oil Filter. I do the work myself, takes about 30 minutes (including idling the engine for 10 minutes with the LiquiMoly Engine Cleanse in the engine) and costs about $ 50.00. We dont drive all that much, so this happens every 4 or 5 months.