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I’m in the market for an MDX for my wife. With a budget of around 20k my research shows this will probably be a 1st gen – of course I’m looking for something with (relatively) “low” miles. I don't particularly care about navigation but I would like the awd (I understand this is standard until 2014)
I was remembering how helpful this forum was when I was buying my TL and thought I would reach out for any advice you can give, Years to avoid, lessons learned, what to look for, what to avoid. Give me the 1010 crash course
I bought an 05 with navigation and rear entertainment for 5500 so 20 grand should get you second generation if not the early third generation. Are you looking on craigslist or at dealer lots?
I’m in the market for an MDX for my wife. With a budget of around 20k my research shows this will probably be a 1st gen – of course I’m looking for something with (relatively) “low” miles. I don't particularly care about navigation but I would like the awd (I understand this is standard until 2014)
I was remembering how helpful this forum was when I was buying my TL and thought I would reach out for any advice you can give, Years to avoid, lessons learned, what to look for, what to avoid. Give me the 1010 crash course
Thanks!
Thank you!
you should be able to purchase a 2010, 2011, 2012 for $ 20,000.00. The base and/or tech does not have the air suspension so they are mostly trouble free. The major concern is the oil consumption that some people have encountered.
That budget is enough for a 2G.. The 2G MDX is 2007 to 2013.. Its better than the 1st gen in every possible way, Has no transmission issues, The most powerful V6 engine Honda has ever made (Except for the New NSX Engine) and best of all SH-AWD which is one of the best AWD Systems in the World.
Specific issues:
2007-2009 have simple issues, One of them being the HFL (Hands Free Link = Bluetooth Module) going bad and discharging your battery, Solution is to simply disconnect it.
2010-2013 have the most TECH with Adaptive Cruise, Lane Keep, Etc. 6 Speed AUTO is standard BUT it have serious oil consumption issues IF you got them, If you end up with oil consumption issues you need a NEW Block.. Acura is covering this by warranty.
If you want to avoid expensive maintenance Items in the 2g MDX.
Avoid: Sport or Advance packages because of the Adaptive Electromagnetic Shocks (Known as "ADS")
If it has this button under the shift lever, It has "ADS":
Those shocks are only made by Acura / Honda and cost an arm and a leg to replace once they go bad.
If it has ADS = It has Expensive Shocks.
There is no air bag suspension in any MDXs.. Only Adaptive Shocks.
That is about it... I would go for a +2010 only if it has good warranty.
With a 20K budget there is no reason to look at the 1st Gen, Unless those are Canadian Pesos.
I wouldn't avoid the 10-13 Adv version if you can purchase one way under 100,000 miles. The 100,000 mile Acura extended IDS warranty will cover the magnetic shock/struts. I have an 11 MDX Adv/Ent since 2014. I had to replace my front magnetic struts at 35,000 miles under warranty. Everything has been 100% since and I have +96,000 miles on her now. The magnetic suspension and larger sway bars help the Adv version handle a touch better. The magnetic shock/struts help with less dive when braking, less lean in the curves, and less squat when accelerating. The extra tech of ACC, CMBS, BSI, seat belt pre-tensioners, auto leveling headlights, 3 level cooled seats, 3 level heated seats, and 19" rims are all pretty good upgrades if you love to drive (I do about +20,000 miles per year).
I would only go for a high mileage Adv version if you have the $$$ on hand to convert to regular shocks/struts if the magnetic suspension craps out +100,000 miles.
Very helpful information!
I've been shopping at dealers, online, craigslist. Just about everywhere.
Good to know about the ADS. My hope is to find something around 60k miles or so. I've had to head with the HFL in my TL- familiar issue.
What kind of miles are yall putting/ planning to put on your MDX?
I keep my vehicles for around 150,000-180,000 miles unless they are giving me issues.
So far:
06 TSX purchased new and now have +139,000 @ 6k-8k per year (kid's college car)
08 RDX purchased used in 2010 with 30k and now have +140,000 @ 10k-12k per year
11 MDX purchased used in 2014 with 29k and now have +96,000 @ around 20k per year
Only in the freezing states and a radiator is cheaper than a complete engine the 10-13 needs if out warranty if it burns oil.
So on the burning oil issue- you mentioned acura is covering this: Are they fixing it as a sort of recall or because its under a limited warranty? If so, what warranty covers it?
I am unfamiliar with the factory warranty for MDX.
thanks
Last edited by Robospinner; 07-20-2017 at 09:13 AM.
The burning oil issue is hit or miss with +10 MDXs. They changed the engine design with the +10 a little bit to add more longevity, strength, and a flatter TQ curve: Acura?s MDX SUV gets a new look and powertrain for 2010
I think Acura fixed one problem and caused another. I always used around 1/2 to 2/3 quart of oil between my 7500-8500 miles oil changes. The oil consumption stayed the same since purchase in 2014 with 29,000 miles (now have +96,000). Some folks can burn +2 quarts of oil between M.I.D. scheduled changes. Acura has a pretty tough standard for correcting the issue under the 4/50,000, 6/70,000 powertrain, or Acura Care extended warranties. You might have to be +3 quarts between changes before Acura considers it to be an issue. They might offer an extended warranty down the road like they did with the Magnetic shocks/struts. Very unlikely since a new/rebuilt engine would be the possible fix (I think the issues was with the cylinder walls and the metal inserts they used was too soft for the +10 MDXs).
So on the burning oil issue- you mentioned acura is covering this: Are they fixing it as a sort of recall or because its under a limited warranty? If so, what warranty covers it?
I am unfamiliar with the factory warranty for MDX.
thanks
The warranty that covers it is the Drivetrain one 5 years or 100K IIRC but Acura extend those warranties because they want to avoid a Lemon Law sue.. So they are honoring the warranty even outside of it, In worst cases they are covering parts and asking you for labor.
A lot of people say they haven´t had issues so your mileage may vary?
I would weight in the PROs and CONs of each model (07-09 vs 10-13) and decide if the Oil Burn issue (That may or not affect you) out weight the PROs of the facelift model.
I am sincerely pretty happy with my 07 MDX but I will like the Adaptive Cruise Control of the Facelift model, To me is not worth having oil burning issues just for that.
Yeah the 07-09 is not reported to have the widespread oil consumption issues since in 2010 The Engine was updated and that is what seemed to cause the problem with the oil burning issues in the facelift model.
Ahh so I just read your original post above
the oil consumption issue is just the 10-13?
07-09 had just HFL issue and no oil consumption issue?
If that's the case, the problem now is finding a low mileage 09
I would test drive the 07-09 and +10 MDX in the tech models to see which one drives better and has the features you like. The oil consumption issue is more miss than hit. I could go the 7500-8000 miles between my M.I.D. oil changes without adding any oil since I only burn around 1/2 to 2/3 of a quart.
The +10 tech has some nice upgrades like:
- 6AT
- paddle shifters
- bluetooth streaming audio for smartphone
- Hard-drive based navi with larger screen and deeper colors
- ability to enter Navi addresses in less steps by starting by zip code or my favorite by the business phone number
- ability to rip CD on hard-drive
- USB connection for flashdrive music or connect/play/charge your smartphone for audio
- bluetooth loading of smartphone address book
- dialing, syc'ing, uploading address book, or adding speed dials from navi screen (don't need to know any voice commands)
Yeah the 07-09 is not reported to have the widespread oil consumption issues since in 2010 The Engine was updated and that is what seemed to cause the problem with the oil burning issues in the facelift model.
I'm looking at both a 2009 and 2011 model and would like to get the adds in the 2011 model but the oil consumption is interesting to me. I called my local acura dealer and the specific person I talked to didn't know much about an oil consumption issue but did confirm that any block damage would be covered in the 6yr/70k power-train warranty.
Is there any specific information you can give me on why it consumes oil that I can pass along? Bad seal?
I want to be able to hold someones feet to the fire if I buy a 2011 model. I can't afford to inherit a major repair job, and don't want to get blown off by a dealer who wont take responsibility for it.
Thoughts?
The reported issue with the Oil Consumption has to be with the fact Acura changed the Cylinder Lining composition for the +2010 J37A1.
Seems that the new material ended up being stronger than the original stuff in the OG J37A1 making the Piston Rings wear out uncontrollably fast and thus burn oil.. So the only available fix is to replace the Piston Rings which is $$$$... Since this was a screw up on Acura end they honor the fix under the Power-Train warranty, They even released a TSB for this issue that DID NOT Cover the original 2G MDX 07-09 so we know this issue is specific to the refreshed 2G MDX to the point Acura state it on their TSB parameters.
So how do you know the engine is burning oil? There is no apparent give away that can lead you to say: This car is burning oil!
A lot of people mistake Carbon Soot in the Tailpipes as an issue for Burnt Oil but that is not the case, Almost all 2G MDXs will have a decent amount of Carbon Soot build up because they tend to run really really rich at start up. Carbon Soot is just a result of Carbon Monoxide and Water Condensation mix up which always happen at Start up in any 2G MDX.
To really know if you have a faulty engine you will need to test the car for around 1000 miles so you can report on the oil consumption of YOUR engine.
Acura says more than 1q every 1000 miles = Bad Engine. So if you are under 1q every 1000 miles you are good?
For example my MDX burn oil, about 1/4 quart every 7000miles so that is how the Burn Oil issues compares with a "healthy" engine, In general you don´t want your engine to burn ANY oil at all but the J37 is a somewhat special engine due to its high performance capacities at the time so a small amount of oil burn is to be expected but not in excess of 1q every 1000 miles which is ridiculous.
What I would do before buying is:
Know exactly the status of the Power-Train Warranty and how much is left if at all... If the car is OUT of Warranty fixing the Engine will run you down a couple of Thousands of Dollars so its not joke, You could also just top off oil every month as well and be done with it but that elevates the maintenance costs to absurd levels specially if you want to run Synthetic Oil to get decent MPGs... If you are Under Warranty then ask for how long it will be and then decide if its worth the risk..
Like I said its not a 100% Spread problem but its to the point its a 50/50 bet on it.
Skirmich, I'm looking for MDXs with around 60k miles, in part because that gives me at least a couple of years before I cross the 100k threshold and in part because i just don't want to spend 20k on a car with over 70k miles on it...
That would give me about 10k before I lose the factory 70k powertrain warranty. Should be plenty of time to understand if the vehicle has oil consumption issues.
Is the Acura warranty fix a permanent one? I'm planning on driving this vehicle indefinitely.
We cannot say for sure if Acura is replacing the rings with updated rings because it will take at least 50K for Oil Burn issues to start (Wear the Piston Rings)..
So far the fixed engines must be pretty new to see if they develop new burn issues over time, A lot of people just takes this for granted and never even apply for the warranty so those engines are screwed.
So to say the fixed engine is a definitive fix? cannot say... What I can say is that you will need a ton of miles to develop the burn issue again.
A lot of people say they haven´t had issues so your mileage may vary?
I would weight in the PROs and CONs of each model (07-09 vs 10-13) and decide if the Oil Burn issue (That may or not affect you) out weight the PROs of the facelift model.
I am sincerely pretty happy with my 07 MDX but I will like the Adaptive Cruise Control of the Facelift model, To me is not worth having oil burning issues just for that.
Ive got a couple of vehicles lined up to see this weekend- one is 2009 the other is 2011.
Is there a good place i can go to see the itemized list of "improvements" between these years? You mentioned the adaptive cc, and I can see subtle differences in the instrument cluster...
Just trying to better weigh the pros and cons.
thanks!
Only the +10 MDX comes with ACC, BSI, CMBS, ADS, auto level headlights, and cooled seats. The Advance models look almost identical externally to the +10 Base and tech except for unique 19" rims and the small plastic cover in black mesh grill for the ACC/CMBS radar.
The facelift model has a BUNCH of goodies.. I do not know all of them from memory though.. To me the highlights are:
6 Speed Auto (Which is a Con/Pro in itself) and the ACC (Adaptive Cruise Control), Cooled Seats (I am in south cali, Needless to say more).
Bumping this old thread...
i stumbled across a 2008 MDX with 81k being sold at a reputable dealer for $11.5... seems like a fair price. Car looks really clean, and the carfax is clean and loaded with maintenance history.
Even though it’s old, I’m giving it some consideration.
I was just hoping someone could school me on this issue the 07-09 has with rad/tranny fluids mixing.
What is the cause, and is it a death card for the tranny? How can I look to see if this car has this issue already?
any links?
TIA
Bumping this old thread...
i stumbled across a 2008 MDX with 81k being sold at a reputable dealer for $11.5... seems like a fair price. Car looks really clean, and the carfax is clean and loaded with maintenance history.
Even though it’s old, I’m giving it some consideration.
I was just hoping someone could school me on this issue the 07-09 has with rad/tranny fluids mixing.
What is the cause, and is it a death card for the tranny? How can I look to see if this car has this issue already?
any links?
TIA
2008 MDX Base w/81K miles = $11,800
2008 MDX Base w/tech & 81K miles = $12,700
These are credit union finance values and are also recognized as the maximum that a dealer offers as a trade in value.
So, you have a fair deal available.
Is it possible for the radiator to go bad...yes it is. Tranny fluid is a (transparent) red and radiator coolant is either (transparent) blue or lime green. Mixed together they become a (solid) brown color.
It doesn't happen to all mdxes and because you know it is possible, you can take preventive measures.
You can add a tranny cooler and completely by pass the radiator. (There are links at this site.) That solves the possibility of ATF fluid and antifreeze mixing.
It's not hard to do, maybe a 2 out of 10, for a handy man and a 4 out of 10 for someone that has never bought a hand tool.
If it were me, I be more worried about the timing belt.
It is to be replaced, after 7 years, or 105,000 miles which ever comes first.
That is a much more difficult DIY. If you're not an experienced wrench turner, don't even think about it.
If there are no receipts (from your reputable dealer) for the timing belt service, you can still buy it and just know that you need to spend between $1,400 - 1,800 at a Honda/Acura dealer. You can use face-book and see if there are any Acura/Honda mechanics doing side work on their weekends, for $300 + the parts. (That's how I got mine done, for $700 out-the-door.)
I would not worry about anything on an 07 - 09 MDX, except for the above mentioned mixing and the ADS Shocks, on the Sport trim.
2008 MDX Base w/81K miles = $11,800
2008 MDX Base w/tech & 81K miles = $12,700
These are credit union finance values and are also recognized as the maximum that a dealer offers as a trade in value.
So, you have a fair deal available.
Is it possible for the radiator to go bad...yes it is. Tranny fluid is a (transparent) red and radiator coolant is either (transparent) blue or lime green. Mixed together they become a (solid) brown color.
It doesn't happen to all mdxes and because you know it is possible, you can take preventive measures.
You can add a tranny cooler and completely by pass the radiator. (There are links at this site.) That solves the possibility of ATF fluid and antifreeze mixing.
It's not hard to do, maybe a 2 out of 10, for a handy man and a 4 out of 10 for someone that has never bought a hand tool.
If it were me, I be more worried about the timing belt.
It is to be replaced, after 7 years, or 105,000 miles which ever comes first.
That is a much more difficult DIY. If you're not an experienced wrench turner, don't even think about it.
If there are no receipts (from your reputable dealer) for the timing belt service, you can still buy it and just know that you need to spend between $1,400 - 1,800 at a Honda/Acura dealer. You can use face-book and see if there are any Acura/Honda mechanics doing side work on their weekends, for $300 + the parts. (That's how I got mine done, for $700 out-the-door.)
I would not worry about anything on an 07 - 09 MDX, except for the above mentioned mixing and the ADS Shocks, on the Sport trim.
thank you for the great info!
i didn’t even think of the timing belt... maybe I’ll be able to knock them down on price more with that point.
The other problem I researched with this year MDX’s are the torque converter going bad, causing vibration b/w 30-40mph.
How much would something like this cost to repair, if this were to go bad?
Thanks again.
I don't know about the torque converter.
At least you know to watch out for the problem, when you test drive it. You're doing research, which is good. You'll be ahead, if it's a one or two owner vehicle.
If your "reputable car dealer" is not an Acura/Honda dealer, don't expect them to assist you with the cost of the TB, especially if he doesn't have his own repair facility and mechanic.
If you're dealing with Acura/Honda dealers, you can call their service counter and get a TB quote. Have it broken down parts price vs labor price.
Try to get 1/2 of the labor discounted, after all they're getting the work and the sale. It is common to tell the service dept that you want your old parts, so tell them in advance.
It doesn't sound like there will be any problems, but you need to have a pre-purchase inspection, by some shop other than the one selling you the MDX.
The $11,500 is a fair price without any additional discounts, if it passes your test drive and if you pay an independent shop to check it out.
I don't know about the torque converter.
At least you know to watch out for the problem, when you test drive it. You're doing research, which is good. You'll be ahead, if it's a one or two owner vehicle.
If your "reputable car dealer" is not an Acura/Honda dealer, don't expect them to assist you with the cost of the TB, especially if he doesn't have his own repair facility and mechanic.
If you're dealing with Acura/Honda dealers, you can call their service counter and get a TB quote. Have it broken down parts price vs labor price.
Try to get 1/2 of the labor discounted, after all they're getting the work and the sale. It is common to tell the service dept that you want your old parts, so tell them in advance.
It doesn't sound like there will be any problems, but you need to have a pre-purchase inspection, by some shop other than the one selling you the MDX.
The $11,500 is a fair price without any additional discounts, if it passes your test drive and if you pay an independent shop to check it out.
yeah I’ll look more into the torque converter thing some more. Hopefully it isn’t a big pain in the butt.
The dealer that is selling it, is a Lexus dealer. I’ve bought from them before, and they are pleasant to deal with... that’s another reason I feel comfortable about maybe buying this car, even though it’s so old.
It helps that they installed 4 new tires and a 4 wheel alignment too. lol
but again, thanks for the help and information.
If I buy, I’ll be sure to update.
One thing I found out later, was the oil pan drain plug threads were stripped and, though it had clear oil in it, when I bought it, there was blue silicone on the plug.
I tapped it and all is well, now.
07-14-2017, 09:54 AM
