oil leak from oil pump screw! HELP ASAP

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Old 02-03-2018, 04:51 PM
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oil leak from oil pump screw! HELP ASAP

I removed the timing belt cover and found one of the screw that is holding the oil pump had a minor oil leak through the thread. Can I remove this screw and apply HT liquid gasket in the the thread?
Attached Thumbnails oil leak from oil pump screw! HELP ASAP-s3.jpg   oil leak from oil pump screw! HELP ASAP-s1.jpg   oil leak from oil pump screw! HELP ASAP-s2.jpg  
Old 02-03-2018, 07:07 PM
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Temporary at best. You need a new oil pump seal. That would be the best route. Has the leak changed or gotten worse? How long has it been leaking that your aware of? How much oil are you losing between oil changes?
Old 02-03-2018, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by svtmedic
Temporary at best. You need a new oil pump seal. That would be the best route. Has the leak changed or gotten worse? How long has it been leaking that your aware of? How much oil are you losing between oil changes?
Replacing the oil pump is a lot of work. I have to remove the front exhaust pipe, oil pan, timing belt.
Maybe it has been leaking a long time ago. I don't see any leak dripping at the bottom of the timing cover. The leak is so tiny that I don't see any pocket of oil anywhere, just a little of oily surface in there area. I just put a liquid gasket inside the thread and retighten. I am running the engine 15-30 minutes with the timing belt covers off to see any more leak.
Old 02-04-2018, 12:35 AM
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common leak in the J series motor, unfortunately what you said is true but at some point when you replace the TB then you will have to reseal the oil pump.
Old 02-04-2018, 07:50 AM
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I'm not sure you're getting it. Replacing oil pump seal is much different from pulling oil pan. You do not need to pull the oil pan to replace oil pump seal. It is true if you were to pull the pan you would need to move the exhaust out-of-the-way. It is possible that your leak is coming from the oil pan seal itself which is not truly a gasket. Honda uses something called Honda bond. As I've said before, it's really very good stuff. What you need to replace is like a 3 or a 4 dollar rubber gasket seal that goes on the oil pump Housing.and yes it is true, you do you need to you remove the timing belt and all of its components from the car to replace that seal. That's why the other poster was saying you can get it done when you're doing the timing belt service on the car. When you get your 105,000 Service done you can ask them to replace that seal. Yes it will add about another hour or hour and a half to the cost of your maintenance. As the other poster said it is a very common problem with the J32 and the J35 engines. Is your oil pan wet? Does it appear that there is oil seeping from the seal on the oil pan? Maybe I'm not getting something you said there was a leak and you pulled your timing belt cover,?. Did you pull your timing belt cover to check for a leak because you saw oil spots on the ground under your car.

Last edited by svtmedic; 02-04-2018 at 07:56 AM.
Old 02-04-2018, 11:44 AM
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Oil leak in area circled in red
Originally Posted by svtmedic
I'm not sure you're getting it. Replacing oil pump seal is much different from pulling oil pan. You do not need to pull the oil pan to replace oil pump seal. It is true if you were to pull the pan you would need to move the exhaust out-of-the-way. It is possible that your leak is coming from the oil pan seal itself which is not truly a gasket. Honda uses something called Honda bond. As I've said before, it's really very good stuff. What you need to replace is like a 3 or a 4 dollar rubber gasket seal that goes on the oil pump Housing.and yes it is true, you do you need to you remove the timing belt and all of its components from the car to replace that seal. That's why the other poster was saying you can get it done when you're doing the timing belt service on the car. When you get your 105,000 Service done you can ask them to replace that seal. Yes it will add about another hour or hour and a half to the cost of your maintenance. As the other poster said it is a very common problem with the J32 and the J35 engines. Is your oil pan wet? Does it appear that there is oil seeping from the seal on the oil pan? Maybe I'm not getting something you said there was a leak and you pulled your timing belt cover,?. Did you pull your timing belt cover to check for a leak because you saw oil spots on the ground under your car.

iI am sorry to post in wrong thread . This for 2011 Acura MDX. I will probably have 1 or 2 drop of oil after driving for one week. The leak is not from the oil pan , it coming from the oil pump seal.
Old 02-04-2018, 01:03 PM
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Yeah bro, understand what you're saying. Acura is Acura. Whether it's an MDX or a TL the engines are pretty much the same. I believe yours is a 3.5 L. 3.5 J35 and a 3.2 or J32 really the same engine. So whether it's an MDX or TL the same service will go into replacing that seal. The reason it was leaking from the bolt is the gasket had failed. Again a little bit of a pain in the you know what. But overall not a horrible thing. Just it's going to cost extra money. That's the bad part.
Old 02-04-2018, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by svtmedic
Yeah bro, understand what you're saying. Acura is Acura. Whether it's an MDX or a TL the engines are pretty much the same. I believe yours is a 3.5 L. 3.5 J35 and a 3.2 or J32 really the same engine. So whether it's an MDX or TL the same service will go into replacing that seal. The reason it was leaking from the bolt is the gasket had failed. Again a little bit of a pain in the you know what. But overall not a horrible thing. Just it's going to cost extra money. That's the bad part.
ok. Question. How do you support the engine when out Honda special tool when you remove the timing belt and removing the oil pan at the same time in order to remove the oil pump?
Old 02-04-2018, 02:40 PM
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When doing a timing belt service on the car you will need to remove passenger engine mount and power steering pump to complete the service. With this said you can support the engine with a Hydrolock jack via the oil pan buy placing wood in between the jack and the pan which will disperse the weight of the engine. You will do seal then check re-check and check again that all is place. Put the timeing covers back on along with everything that came off it was clearing the engine mount power steering pump, ect. and the car and make sure it runs. To take the oil pan off the car you will not need to support the engine. You will need to however remove part of the exhaust and the cross member what should be 4 bolts. Your oil pump seal that you are replacing is inside the timing, not in the oil pan. So there is no need to remove the pan to replace that seal.

Last edited by svtmedic; 02-04-2018 at 02:43 PM.
Old 02-04-2018, 05:15 PM
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Ok no leak in the pan. No need to worry about pan then. When you do the timing belt you will need to remove the water pump and all other with timing. Do the seal then. Buy the lisle socket if you want. With that said Honda requires no special tools. The lisle socket is really thick side walls so no flex.

Last edited by svtmedic; 02-04-2018 at 05:18 PM.
Old 02-04-2018, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by svtmedic
When doing a timing belt service on the car you will need to remove passenger engine mount and power steering pump to complete the service. With this said you can support the engine with a Hydrolock jack via the oil pan buy placing wood in between the jack and the pan which will disperse the weight of the engine. You will do seal then check re-check and check again that all is place. Put the timeing covers back on along with everything that came off it was clearing the engine mount power steering pump, ect. and the car and make sure it runs. To take the oil pan off the car you will not need to support the engine. You will need to however remove part of the exhaust and the cross member what should be 4 bolts. Your oil pump seal that you are replacing is inside the timing, not in the oil pan. So there is no need to remove the pan to replace that seal.
this is for 2011 MDX. According to the FSM the oil pump can’t be removed without removing the timing belt and oil pan at the same time. The pump can’t be removed without removing the engine mount and oil pan. Maybe there is trick , which I don’t know of.
Old 02-04-2018, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by svtmedic
Ok no leak in the pan. No need to worry about pan then. When you do the timing belt you will need to remove the water pump and all other with timing. Do the seal then. Buy the lisle socket if you want. With that said Honda requires no special tools. The lisle socket is really thick side walls so no flex.
the leak is at the top of the oil pump in the timing belt see picture here circled in r

Old 02-04-2018, 08:29 PM
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I was under the impression it was an older mdx. My fault for not asking. I will get to research and get back with you.
Old 02-04-2018, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by svtmedic
I was under the impression it was an older mdx. My fault for not asking. I will get to research and get back with you.
thanks. I think there is no way around it
Old 02-05-2018, 04:42 PM
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Your going to need to hoist engine from top. Harbor freight sells 1 for like 80 bucks. You don't need to lift it. Just suport. Remind me not to buy a 2011 mdx.
Old 02-05-2018, 04:43 PM
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Your going to need to hoist engine from top. Harbor freight sells 1 for like 80 bucks. You don't need to lift it. Just support. Remind me not to buy a 2011 mdx.
Old 02-05-2018, 05:04 PM
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Yeah bro unfortunately on your MDX it seems to be a big job. No way around it. So I was under the impression that our engines were the same. Sorry i have been giving you the wrong info. So basically false hope. So sorry.

Last edited by svtmedic; 02-05-2018 at 05:07 PM.
Old 02-05-2018, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by svtmedic
Yeah bro unfortunately on your MDX it seems to be a big job. No way around it. So I was under the impression that our engines were the same. Sorry i have been giving you the wrong info. So basically false hope. So sorry.
maybe it isn’t worth doing it. very tiny oil seeping from the oil pump and it doesn’t accumulate much under the oil pan until two weeks later. The oil pan is free of oil leak. Probably wait until the oil leaks from the pan to do the whole think or unless the oil leak from the oil pump is getting worst.
Old 02-06-2018, 10:10 AM
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I would wait until it drip to your driveway, at this stage its just seeping through the bolt.
Old 02-06-2018, 11:59 AM
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You have to pull the pan on any J-series to remove the oil pump.
Old 02-06-2018, 06:54 PM
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I stand corrected. It's a big job.
Old 02-14-2018, 07:44 PM
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yes it blows, and good luck lining up the rotor on the oil pump with the crank without rolling the front main seal or disturbing your continuous line on hondabond. ive done it on an engine i was building on a stand with as much space as i needed. i WOULD NOT want to do this with limited awkward space inside an engine bay, get one little thing wrong and guess what, oil leak and you are doing it AGAIN.
Old 02-15-2018, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 97'CL2.2
yes it blows, and good luck lining up the rotor on the oil pump with the crank without rolling the front main seal or disturbing your continuous line on hondabond. ive done it on an engine i was building on a stand with as much space as i needed. i WOULD NOT want to do this with limited awkward space inside an engine bay, get one little thing wrong and guess what, oil leak and you are doing it AGAIN.
this is for 2011 MDX. I though the oil pump just easily slip on the crankshaft. What do you mean the rotor have to line up? Can you line up the rotor with the crankshaft before applying hondabond?
Old 02-15-2018, 10:22 AM
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I plan to remove the timing belt, oil pump and oil pan at the same time. Since I am going to remove the oil pan there is nothing to support the engine after I remove the side engine mount. Is it safe to lightly lift and support the engine underneath the A/C compressor bracket. I really don’t want to be under the car working on the oil pan while the side engine mount is removed. The hoist method is expensive
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