peter6

Hi.

I'm looking for 2008-2013 Acura MDX for somebody.
Most likely I will pick up something around 2008-2010, ~100-120k miles.
Budget is up to 12k, must be financed, I'm fine with fixing it as long as it doesn't require new trans or engine, or just too much money, ofc accident free.

I would like to know about any common issues with this car. You know, stuff to look on first, to get price down
(for example years with bad transmission, HFL, etc.)

I know how to inspect cars, and I will get it on the lift before purchasing. I know about timing belt change (the 105k service - at least for my car).
Plan is to pick close to 120k miles, hoping timing belt was not changed, and get price down. Then I will do timing belt job by myself.

I got 2008 TL, so I expect they will be close mechanically.

Any suggestions welcome.

Thanks !

Skirmich

The 2007 is a 2G MDX as well... Any reasons you are avoiding it? 1G MDX is 2001-2006, 2G MDX is 2007-2013.

2G MDX has 2 versions:
OG (Shield Grille) 2007-2009
"Facelift" (Beak) 2010-2013 This model has a new 6 Speed Trans with lots of tech updates while also having a new Square tail pipes with new Front and Rear bumpers + Updated Beak Grille.

Most important issues:
2007-2009 (Radiator ATF Warmer leaking inside the Radiator causing Catastrophic Transmission failure) - This issue Cannot be diagnosed until its too late = Preventive Maintenance is to change the radiator or bypass the ATF Warmer.
2010-2013 (J37 burning too much oil) Acura changed the cylinder linings in 2010 and the result was most if not all of J37s consuming engine oil drastically as in more than 1 quart every 1000miles..
Solution is to change the entire block.

Both have no Transmissions issues ala "5 Speed Fiasco from early 2000s"..
2007-2009 has a HD 5 Speed transmission with ZERO Reliability Issues, Shifts relatively fast and smooth.
2010-2013 has a newer HD 6 Speed transmission. Some users had shifting issues (Software Problem, Needs update) that could cause some hesitation to shift in the first 2 gears. New to this model is Paddle Shifters SS Mode.

As for issues that can help you lower its price?? Besides de HFL unit in the OG Model there is little to none.. The 2G MDX is a Solid Vehicle.

peter6

No idea why I didn't include 2007 Acuras, guess it's just a typo.

All right, looks like 2007-09 seems like better idea, as I'm going to look for rather higher mileage vehicle. Burning oil doesn't sound nice.

Do you have more info about ATF Warmer bypass? Is it separate part of radiator or cooler/warmer is same part?
By bypass you mean putting another radiator in its place, or just putting piece of hose ?

Skirmich

The bypass is removing the ATF Warmer functionality of the radiator from the Equation.. In my specific case I replaced the ATF Warmer for an extra ATF Cooler since I live in SoCali where summers can reach up to 125*F so having a "Warmer" is a dumb thing. But the general idea of the bypass is to not use the Radiator ATF Warmer. This is my DIY on that subject:

https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-2g-m...2g-mdx-946052/

If you live in a freezing state is better to replace the radiator periodically as you need to actually heat the transmission by any means necessary.

mrgold35

The burning oil issue is more miss than hit for the +2010 MDXs. I use around 1/2 to 2/3 of a quart per 7500-8500 miles oil changes and I just turned over 100,000 miles.

There were pretty much zero changes for 4 model years from 2010-2013 for the MDX other than Graystone interior being offered after 2012. There were a few TSB like reflash of 6AT for smoother shifting or reflash of system to fix "check charging system" error. Most TSB were applied after the 2012 versions. The only models to really avoid with +100,000 miles is the +2010 Adv model because of the magnetic struts and shocks (and 07-09 MDXs sport with the same suspension). There are no aftermarket replacements for the magnetic suspension, Acura extended warranty for the ADS system expires at 100K, replacement can cost $700-$1000 per corner after warranty, and the magnetic suspension can last forever or fail a few months/years later at any mileage. You might get a deal on a +100K +2010 MDX Adv with bad magnetic suspension. Many folks convert to regular shocks/struts for same cost as replacing on any other SUV.

The Adv features like CMBS, ACC, BSI, ADS, cooled seats, auto leveling headlights, and seatbelt pre-tensioners were too good for me to pass up. I had my front magnetic struts replaced at 35K under warranty. They have been 100% every since with just over 100K on her now.

If the person you are purchasing for likes tech, the +2010 MDX tech has some nice upgrades like:
- larger brighter navi screen
- much faster harddrive base navi system
- display screen for every function, don't need to know any voice commands
- rip music CDs to harddrive
- bluetooth audio streaming
- USB connection in armrest to connect/charge/control smart phone for audio or connect a USB music stick
- bluetooth upload of smartphone address book
- easier to set navi with a lot less steps by using zip code or using a business phone number (my favorite way because it on takes 15 seconds to set)
- paddles for up and down shifting
- power liftgate standard on all +2010 models
- a little fast acceleration and slight mpg improvement with 6AT

peter6

Thank you guys. Now I have an idea what "I'm" getting into.

Guess I will add radiator to the list of things that car will get.
It will be done together with timing belt, if it wasn't changed and car is above 90k miles.

Skirmich

No problem buddy! happy buying!

peter6

It was hard search... my results (every dash is separate car)(comes from my notes):

In about ~$10k range (meaning 9k-11k):
- one car had 120k miles, SH-AWD light on, misfire at idle engine light blinks, no idea about the rest - gave up on this one
- bald tires, needs rear brakes ASAP, needs fronts tomorrow, has power lift gate but doesn't work, seat profiles don't work, mirrors have brownish outline******
- this one was ok, had some body damage (parking scratches), they didn't want to go any lower than 10.5k, despite not having timing belt proof
- 2 bald tires, rims badly damaged, some body scratches - somebody really loved curbs and walls in this one, or just used phone too much
- couple bulbs bad, 15% oil life, 45psi in 3 tires, 10psi in one tire, interior in bad shape, front passenger seat torn, driver seat "restored" cheaply, brand new aftermarket key with ~6 feet range - could fix it, but they didn't even bother to clean the car wow

In about ~$14k range:
- bad color, no maintenance history, seated heat doesn't work, AC really weak
- decent, AC doesn't work (doesn't engage compressor clutch, no idea if system has pressure), power steering high pressure hose leak (looked like on connector from the pump), tires in about 4/32 so needs them before winter
- weird idle, drops to 500rpm, jumps to 1k, repeat
- headlights needs to be restored, moisture in one taillight, hit in the corner of the bumper (explains moisture)
- good, but private seller meaning financing tricky, has some maintenance history, interior has some wear, needs front brakes*******


Well... I'm surprised. I thought that I can buy decent car in $12k range, that with some love will be all right.

None of them, except for that private seller one, had maintenance history, and mileage being around 120k I assumed all of them needed 105k service. That misfiring car was just a joke. Funny thing is that it was running fine, until I floored it at the highway. That's when SH-AWD and check engine light came on. It was misfiring (CE light blinking, rough idle, you can hear engine is running bad) on every stop light since. Guess I broke it, or it was running on some magic juice before lol.


******* cars were best choices, but putting ~$1.5k right into it was out of range

So in the end, I got 50k miles 2016 Toyota Rav4 XLE. Has auto climate control, BT radio with USB, backup camera, power tailgate, new tires, and proof of oil changes. It's really far from MDX, and I still believe nice Acura would be better (despite being 10 years old). It just made more sense to go this way, and this person needed car fast. It costed $19k, got decent credit, and car doesn't require any money now.

Thanks for all help !

Skirmich

Yeah those were crappy choices.. I am amazed you found all the bad apples in your search for an MDX...
Hope that RAV4 gets you around many years buddy! congrats.

ct_rollins

Hello,

Also in same boat for a purchase. I am considering purchasing a 2013 MDX adv. package with 56K miles for my wife ($27,500). Wanted to see if the group could give me some more insight? If so, thank you in advance. Have had a '05 TL for about 7 years now and love it, so familiar with Acura.

SUV's we have been looking at are 2014 + Highlander Limited; MDX advance package; Infiniti qx60. Want the advance package bc we really want the lane monitoring, a/c seats and collision detection. same things for the other models. I see the group has stated that the magnetic struts are the biggest concern. We plan on taking the MDX to a local Honda dealer we like for a purchase inspection and will ask them to look at the struts closely.

Any pros/cons of going with a slightly older year or the newer model of 2014? I read that the 2014's are more quiet, but not sure about anything else. Or pros/cons of the MDX v. the models above?

Sorry for the randomness of the questions. Thanks again for any help.

GhostTL09

iTrader: (1)

thread hijacker!!!!!!

mrgold35

You might be better off taking the MDX to an Acura dealership since they would have more experience with the magnetic struts/shocks. Symptoms range from being bad with no visible signs, bouncy suspension, knocking noise with suspension travel over bumps/dips at low speeds, sloppy handling (especially in Comfort mode), and/or leaking struts/shocks. Acura has provide an extended warranty for the magnetic ADS system up to 100,000 miles. Since the 13 MDX has +56,000 miles, you cannot purchase an extended Acura Care warranty (still have 6/70 powertrain plus the 100K magnetic ADS extended warranty). You can always call the Acura warranty folks with the VIN to find out if the previous owner might have had an Acura Care warranty or the MDX was sold used from another Acura dealership as a CPO car (Acura Warranty Claims & Contract Services: 1-888-682-2872).

I've was debating between a 14 MDX tech fwd -vs- 10-13 MDX Adv back in 2014 since they were around the same price range. My current 11 MDX Adv+Ent only had 28,000 miles in 2014 and was +$12,000 cheaper and had more tech compared to brand new 14 MDX fwd tech at $48,000. I would have to jump up another $6K to the +14 MDX Adv model to have at-least the same safety tech/featurs as my 11 MDX Adv. The 2G also felt more sporty, handled a little better, looked more aggressive, standard 5000lbs towing, larger cabin with more comfy seats, and still got over 22 mpg at hwy speeds if you kept the downshift to a minimal. I would test drive 2G and 3G MDXs to see which one feels the best to you. I had a few 14-16 MDX loaners and was always glad to get back into my 2G MDX. The +14 MDX felt like they leaned more towards people hauler minivan compared to SUV characteristics like the 2G MDX.

You might end up giving the TL to the wife and take the MDX Adv for yourself after test driving it.

ct_rollins

LOL. Not really. OP has already purchased, and seemed on point for the topic. I wouldn't have done so if OP had not said he made a decision and purchased.