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After waiting like 8 years, I finally have my hands on a 2G mdx. Silver on black leather interior with the elite package. I went back and forth between tech and elite. I really really wanted an elite but the shocks scared the hell out of. At the end of the day, I can easily swap out the electro shocks for normal shocks if I need to. But in the mean time I am going to enjoy them as long as I can.
2.5 issues showed up which I already knew about 2 prior to purchase. The first is that there is some mild surface rust on the inner driver side finder, and also the rear lower driver side passenger door has a shit ton of rock chips that I need to repair. So going to get it sanded and repainted.
Issue number 2 is that the navigation unit keeps telling me "unit door open or DVD disc not installed" so I have no navigation. The screen works perfectly normal for radio settings but anything navigation related does not work. When I turn the car on, I get the acura navigation loading screen and for a brief second the navigation map display, it then goes to the error screen. This is where issue .5 comes in. I tried everything with the nav unit, opened and closed the nav unit door 10 times, took out the dvd disc and placed it back in multiple times. Nothing works. So I thought I would be a genius and unplug the battery. Well I plug the battery back 30 minutes later and the car turns on to accessory mode normally and functions normally (error still on navi). Then the headlights start flashing on and off, the navi display (including all the lights on the center stack flash on and off a few times and then become unresponsive. Then the headlights start only turning on, on one side. Then I get a warning in the MID that the passenger side airbag has been turned off.
It is late so I didn't want to tinker and have the alarm go off. So here I am feeling anxious as all hell because I don't know what I did. I just hope it turns on tomorrow so that if I have to go to the dealer I can actually drive it there. I am also hoping it was just some rogue electrical crap because of the disconnected battery and that it will all go away after turning it on tomorrow morning.
I have to say, it has been very bitter sweet. I love the 2G mdx. Has been a favorite forever. Sadly I haven't been so lucky so far.
I know you been looking for a while for a RDX replacement for a while. If your MDX is a +10, there shouldn't be a DVD disk or DVD-ROM door because everything is stored on an 40GB internal hard-drive. The hard-drive is shared with Navi data, phone address book, and music you can burn from CD to MDX. I've noticed all three of my Acura's hate low power. You might will see the dash light up like a X-mas tree; but, almost zero indication of low voltage/ground being the issue. It usually starts with the crappy OEM battery, bad/loose ground, corrosion on/near battery cables, bad battery cable, bad/wrong fuse(s), alternator, and/or starter. I've noticed topping off the battery with a battery charger/maintainer will eliminate some of the dash X-mas light issues and get you to the dealership under your own power.
I've heard there is an extended warranty for the magnetic struts/shocks for the 2nd Gen MDX sport/Elite to 100,000 miles/160,000km. You might be good until then if you under that mileage.
Congrats!!, what year model did you get?
The 08 I bought has navigation problems also, but at least it displays a map of the general area where you are at, even though the icon is usually off some or froze up for a few minutes.
The CD changer will not load discs, so no multi disc CD player, but the DVD player plays music cds nicely. The radio stuff all works well.
The Acura dealer said they just remove the nav or cd unit and send them off for rebuild/repair. Or you can do it yourself, it runs about $300 for each unit
CONGRATULATIONS MAN!
I hope you can work those quirks fast and start enjoying the big fat lady..
Got Pics?
Thank you very much! On the drive home from the dealer I was incredibly impressed with the body composure of something so big. I'll further elaborate on my fun times at the bottom of this post.
I do have a couple pics, but not worthy of posting. I will post good ones when I can fix it.....ugh.....
Originally Posted by mrgold35
Congrats on the new ride!
I know you been looking for a while for a RDX replacement for a while. If your MDX is a +10, there shouldn't be a DVD disk or DVD-ROM door because everything is stored on an 40GB internal hard-drive. The hard-drive is shared with Navi data, phone address book, and music you can burn from CD to MDX. I've noticed all three of my Acura's hate low power. You might will see the dash light up like a X-mas tree; but, almost zero indication of low voltage/ground being the issue. It usually starts with the crappy OEM battery, bad/loose ground, corrosion on/near battery cables, bad battery cable, bad/wrong fuse(s), alternator, and/or starter. I've noticed topping off the battery with a battery charger/maintainer will eliminate some of the dash X-mas light issues and get you to the dealership under your own power.
I've heard there is an extended warranty for the magnetic struts/shocks for the 2nd Gen MDX sport/Elite to 100,000 miles/160,000km. You might be good until then if you under that mileage.
Thank you man! Yes I have been looking for months now. I missed a majority of the summer with the ability to drive something fun hard.
My MDX is an 07, so it has the dvd player under the driver seat. The unit turns on an everything normally, so I don't know if it just a case of loose plug or what. I got onto the nav diagnostic screen and it knew where I was globally and even showed connection to satellites...so I don't know.
No issues with the struts at the moment, looks like previous owner took good care of it because the t-belt was done early and at the Acura dealership as well it has 3M all over.
Originally Posted by AlanW
Congrats!!, what year model did you get?
The 08 I bought has navigation problems also, but at least it displays a map of the general area where you are at, even though the icon is usually off some or froze up for a few minutes.
The CD changer will not load discs, so no multi disc CD player, but the DVD player plays music cds nicely. The radio stuff all works well.
The Acura dealer said they just remove the nav or cd unit and send them off for rebuild/repair. Or you can do it yourself, it runs about $300 for each unit
Thank you.
I bought a 07. Do you have a link to the nav player rebuilders? Would it be cheaper to go direct vs having the dealer do it? I know it is built by alpine, I won't be using the nav, but honestly I like the car to function fully and the nav to display.
Well guys. I went to start it this morning, nav display won't come on at all including the lights on the center stack. Tried turning it on and no luck. It simply keeps clicking like it wants to start but no start. Dash comes on mostly normal but then dims slightly. The fact is keeps clicking is throwing me off. I am hoping I didn't fry the internal computer or something with the whole light show. Possibly a blown fuse, but I don't know which one to check. The best part is that it is parked in my garage.....ugh. Off to a shitty start. All I did was unplug the positive cable and then plug it back. I don't know why it reacted the way it did.
Stereo CD DVD Navigation Plasma LCD TV, DJ Equipment Repair This is one place I googled up that looked good, or you could call your local Acura dealer & ask where they send theirs to.
All the dealer does is charge you to remove, ship, & replace the unit. The nav unit under the seat is easy, the center stack comes out real easy & quick if you need the CD or DVD repaired.
Stereo CD DVD Navigation Plasma LCD TV, DJ Equipment Repair This is one place I googled up that looked good, or you could call your local Acura dealer & ask where they send theirs to.
All the dealer does is charge you to remove, ship, & replace the unit. The nav unit under the seat is easy, the center stack comes out real easy & quick if you need the CD or DVD repaired.
Ok sounds good! Thank you very much for letting me know. I will see what the dealer thinks and then go from there. I might even just find a reman unit on ebay.
Now for the update:
I jumped the MDX and it started normally. Dash all lit up normally, passenger airbag light went away. Now I am left with the original 2 problems. Nav still no worky and rust still rusty. But I feel incredibky relieved right now. I was thinking I fried the ecu and that my MDX just turned into a 4500 pound paper weight.
But in any case you should still troubleshoot it in case it isn't a dead bulb by swapping them left to right.
Use my DIY for details on how to replace the bulb but its really nothing that hard > https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-2g-m...change-941131/
And remember that the early 2Gs can have the radiator ATF Cooler failure which means KABOOM to the Transmission, this is specially true in colder climate where rust is prevalent, You can either replace the radiator with a brand new one or by pass the Internal ATF Cooler altogether with an aftermarket cooler using my DIY > https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-2g-m...2g-mdx-946052/
But in any case you should still troubleshoot it in case it isn't a dead bulb by swapping them left to right.
Use my DIY for details on how to replace the bulb but its really nothing that hard > https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-2g-m...change-941131/
And remember that the early 2Gs can have the radiator ATF Cooler failure which means KABOOM to the Transmission, this is specially true in colder climate where rust is prevalent, You can either replace the radiator with a brand new one or by pass the Internal ATF Cooler altogether with an aftermarket cooler using my DIY > https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-2g-m...2g-mdx-946052/
Congrats again and welcome to the dark side.
Read post above your post. I jump started it and everything is working normally. Zero issues minus what I outlined before. Looks like a new battery is on order.
Any ideas how I can tell if my radiator cooler is failing? I never heard of this problem before, but thanks for telling me. Any warning signs? Mine was taken care of really well by previous owner, it may have already been done? transmission shifts smooth as butter.
Sadly the internal ATF cooler is inside the Radiator and show no signs of failure before hand.
You can in theory see the fittings from the outside and look for serious rust in them but again that wont tell you anything, Once it fails the chances of serious transmission damage are very high.. There are more than a handful cases here in the forum where it failed, Here is a detailed thread on MDXers.org > Failure of transmission cooler inside of radiator (w/ pics) - Acura MDX Forum : Acura MDX SUV Forums You might be thinking that`s OK because its a 03 but remember that same Radiator was used in early 07 and 08 2Gs.. Chances of failing are as high as a 2003 model.
So the External ATF Cooler DIY is 100% Preventive Maintenance to avoid a Catastrophic Failure.
Sadly the internal ATF cooler is inside the Radiator and show no signs of failure before hand.
You can in theory see the fittings from the outside and look for serious rust in them but again that wont tell you anything, Once it fails the chances of serious transmission damage are very high.. There are more than a handful cases here in the forum where it failed, Here is a detailed thread on MDXers.org > Failure of transmission cooler inside of radiator (w/ pics) - Acura MDX Forum : Acura MDX SUV Forums You might be thinking that`s OK because its a 03 but remember that same Radiator was used in early 07 and 08 2Gs.. Chances of failing are as high as a 2003 model.
So the External ATF Cooler DIY is 100% Preventive Maintenance to avoid a Catastrophic Failure.
Ok so from reading your thread. You simply installed another cooler to aid the oem cooler or did you completely bypass the oem cooler with an aftermarket one? I read the whole thread but was foggy on that part.
Completely By-Pass It.. There is no need to add an extra inline because we already have an OEM External ATF Cooler for the 5000lb tow rating.
The idea is to completely remove the Internal Radiator Cooler from the Equation and Replace it with another External ATF Cooler to Keep that 5000lb tow rating or upgrade it (Using a more capable ATF Cooler than the One I used).
You need what it looks like an oversized ATF Cooler because OIL to AIR coolers are less efficient than OIL to WATER (Internal ATF Cooler) so you need at least 2-3x the size of the Internal Cooler Water Cooler for an Air Cooler.
Once you remove the Internal ATF Cooler from the system you just put a hose to unite both ends (IN/OUT) so in case it fails you don`t lose Anti-freeze from leaving the ends open.
Completely By-Pass It.. There is no need to add an extra inline because we already have an OEM External ATF Cooler for the 5000lb tow rating.
The idea is to completely remove the Internal Radiator Cooler from the Equation and Replace it with another External ATF Cooler to Keep that 5000lb tow rating or upgrade it (Using a more capable ATF Cooler than the One I used).
Let's see if I am following you here.
My MDX has 2 transmission coolers. One is internal and one is external. So what you did was unplug the lines from the internal one and plug them to the additional external one yes? So did you cap off the lines for the internal one or is the internal one now a part of the coolant system and separate from the transmission setup?
1.- Yes
2.- Just cap the lines of the internal one (or Tied them together with tubing) so in case of any leaks (Usually ATF fluid will enter the coolant system) without the ATF Lines the Antifreeze will simply leak out of the radiator. That`s what the caps or tie tubing is for, In case the ATF Cooler fails you wont lose antifreeze from leaving the ends open.
1.- Yes
2.- Just cap the lines of the internal one (or Tied them together with tubing) so in case of any leaks (Usually ATF fluid will enter the coolant system) without the ATF Lines the Antifreeze will simply leak out of the radiator. That`s what the caps or tie tubing is for, In case the ATF Cooler fails you wont lose antifreeze from leaving the ends open.
Oh ok! I totally get it now! Any issues figuring out the atf tubes from the coolant pipes?
I posted this morning but I see my comment has somehow dissapeared...
Anyway, if the HID ballast, and sometimes LED bulbs flicker and strobe, the battery is weak and putting out about 9v, instead of 12v... The other electrical bugs also correlate...
Once again, congratulations!!!
2007 MDX, sound good...
Silver on black, great combo, it balances sport and luxury well, sometimes I wish I had that combo on my RDX...
So, compared to the RDX, how's the driving experience? Does it have a more solid feeling than the RDX you had?
Congratulations, man! Out of all the vehicles you were considering, I was really hoping you would wind up with an MDX (if not an ML350...lol). Hope to see some pics soon!
Oh ok! I totally get it now! Any issues figuring out the atf tubes from the coolant pipes?
At first yes but once I started removing the lower panels to get my hands in the tubes it was easy to tell the flow (A hotter pipe than the other). In any case the flow is noted in the DIY.
I posted this morning but I see my comment has somehow dissapeared...
Anyway, if the HID ballast, and sometimes LED bulbs flicker and strobe, the battery is weak and putting out about 9v, instead of 12v... The other electrical bugs also correlate...
Once again, congratulations!!!
2007 MDX, sound good...
Silver on black, great combo, it balances sport and luxury well, sometimes I wish I had that combo on my RDX...
So, compared to the RDX, how's the driving experience? Does it have a more solid feeling than the RDX you had?
Sounds great!!!
Thank you very much man. I am not sure what happened to your first post, I never did see it but it is all good!
Electrical bugs all worked out. I realized after when I was reminded that I had the doors open and closing literally all day the day before and that yesterday while detailing it so I must have drained the battery.
I love the silver on Acuras in general, it has this bright almost white appearance as opposed to the "dirty" looking silver some other cars come in. I don't like black interiors (have always been a beige or brown interior guy) but I must say on this combo it really pops.
Truth be told, I have to register and insure it still, so I only got to drive it a short drive home and it is sitting till I can insure it and register it. From the limited experience, it is very sure footed. SH-AWD activates even if I am driving slow on mild turns where on my RDX I had to drive it VERY hard to make the SHAWD activate. Very composed and calm and much more premium feeling. I miss my paddle shifters and sport mode. But what I don't miss is the almost absent exhaust note. This 3.7 can sing!
I will elaborate further when I can drive it for a long drive.
Originally Posted by Acuramon
Congratulations, man! Out of all the vehicles you were considering, I was really hoping you would wind up with an MDX (if not an ML350...lol). Hope to see some pics soon!
Thank you so much man. I really appreciate your interest in me picking my next vehicle and all the help you provided. I would be in an ml right now if I could have located a 2006+ model 5.0 with the smart key and xenon packages. 08+ it seems like every single one had them. But 06-07 was incredibly rare. 08+ are still going for 20k+ here.
I think the MDX is a fair compromise between luxury and sport without being so worried about every little electrical doohicky like I was with my German vehicles. I have been eye balling for years, but was always out of budget. I think the 2G mdx is from and era where Acura knew who they were. Not so much anymore. The next time I buy German, it will be brand new and will not ever be a BMW lol. I really should update my thread in the rdx section. I will do so when I can finally get good pics.
Originally Posted by Skirmich
At first yes but once I started removing the lower panels to get my hands in the tubes it was easy to tell the flow (A hotter pipe than the other). In any case the flow is noted in the DIY.
Ok perfect! Just from the pics it is a little bit difficult to tell, but I bet if I seen it in person and compared to your diagram, it would be simple. Last question, how did you attach the new rad to the old rad?
Thank you so much everyone for all the kind words and support. As silly as it may seem, being a member of this forum did factor into my purchase. I will post some good pictures as soon as I can insure and register it. In the meantime I have spent a combined 6 hours cleaning, vacuuming, wet whiping waxing...etc the interior and exterior (plus engine bay) in anticipation of pics. Not that it was that dirty, I am just THAT anal! This reminds me! I need to windex the interior windows!
You must have bought if from a private party or the detail department didn't do a good job... Maybe you were just getting a head start on bonding, haha...
Your "new" MDX sounds fantastic!!!
Look into a float charger or battery tender, they're cheap and keep the battery up while detailing... Get some LED interior lights too, it will drain the battery slower plus they're brighter...
You mean the new ATF Cooler to the Condenser? Like most Aftermarket Coolers it comes with those Zip Clamps that go through the radiator and clip with a plastic retainer..
That is why you have to unbolt the condenser to make room for your hand between the Condenser and Radiator so you can clip the retainers from the Zip Clamp in place.
Here a Pic:
You push that plastic line into the radiator fins to hold the new ATF Cooler in place.. Pretty straightforward.
Also the flow is drawn in the PAINT Picture in the DIY..
Red Lines = Hot Fluid
Orange Lines = Warm Fluid
Blue Lines = Colder Fluid.
You mean the new ATF Cooler to the Condenser? Like most Aftermarket Coolers it comes with those Zip Clamps that go through the radiator and clip with a plastic retainer..
That is why you have to unbolt the condenser to make room for your hand between the Condenser and Radiator so you can clip the retainers from the Zip Clamp in place.
Here a Pic:
You push that plastic line into the radiator fins to hold the new ATF Cooler in place.. Pretty straightforward.
Also the flow is drawn in the PAINT Picture in the DIY..
Red Lines = Hot Fluid
Orange Lines = Warm Fluid
Blue Lines = Colder Fluid.
Flow is Trans > Radiator > ATF Cooler > Trans.
Yes the atf cooler to the condenser! Thank you for sharing a pic of those clips. I was wondering what those 4 black squares on the corners were.
I hope to do this mod soon. Gotta take care of the other 2 issues first.
Yep, The squares are Soft Pads that creates a gap between the surface you are mounting and the cooler.
This is important because air flow will be restricted if you surface mount the cooler without the pads.
Yep, The squares are Soft Pads that creates a gap between the surface you are mounting and the cooler.
This is important because air flow will be restricted if you surface mount the cooler without the pads.
This seems like an ultra easy diy. I don't think there are going to be any issues. Out of curiosity, how much was the rad?
Yup it was that or getting a new healthy radiator but that will set you back 300 bucks... I went with the cheaper solution that is getting rid of the Internal ATF Cooler altogether.
At least here sounds counterproductive to try to cool ATF inside the scorching hot Antifreeze in a 120°F/50°C day.
Yup it was that or getting a new healthy radiator but that will set you back 300 bucks... I went with the cheaper solution that is getting rid of the Internal ATF Cooler altogether.
At least here sounds counterproductive to try to cool ATF inside the scorching hot Antifreeze in a 120°F/50°C day.
Yeah this is awesome.
You tied the inlet and outlets of the internal ATF rad together right rather than cap them off? No or very little fluid would have leaked out during this procedure because the ATF would have in the transmission case correct?
Yup, I didn´t know what to use to cap them so I used spare tubing and just unite both ends with it.
And ATF will leak out for sure, its a very small amount though just the amount that fills the ATF internal cooler, Not from the transmission.
Yup, I didn´t know what to use to cap them so I used spare tubing and just unite both ends with it.
And ATF will leak out for sure, its a very small amount though just the amount that fills the ATF internal cooler, Not from the transmission.
Ah ok makes sense! So you that is why you filled a little bit back in.
That and the Extra Volume the new ATF Cooler takes.. It was about 1/4th a Quarter.
Ah ok makes sense! Thanks for bearing with my incredibly slow learning curve!
Originally Posted by teh CL
I know I know! I agree! I have some pics, but nothing thread worthy! I still have to insure and register it. I don't want my first thread pics to be ugly! Lol
I emailed the alpine restore place and they want $458 + taxes and shipping to repair the DVD drive unit. I really want to find out what the dealer would charge me. But I feel like there is no point in paying $150 to find out I owe $1000+. So I am not sire what to do right now.
Insurance will have to wait until this friday. So no pics till at least saturday.
Your DVD drive doesn't work? mine is the other way around...
DAMN 6 slot stereo swallowed my Linkin Park Hybrid Theory disc and so far hasn't been working, It worked when playing the LP CD at first but when I tried to eject it, disaster... The Stereo just keeps a mechanical loop and doesn't do crap with the CD. I need to disassembly the stereo to get it back but I am too lazy for that, No way I am Paying to get it working.. I haven't used CDs in the past 10 years in a car... iPod Integration is a god send.
DVD Drive works fine, Just saw the MDX Introduction DVD with it and haven't touched it ever since... Like I said before I wanted RES just for the Power Tailgate
Your DVD drive doesn't work? mine is the other way around...
DAMN 6 slot stereo swallowed my Linkin Park Hybrid Theory disc and so far hasn't been working, It worked when playing the LP CD at first but when I tried to eject it, disaster... The Stereo just keeps a mechanical loop and doesn't do crap with the CD. I need to disassembly the stereo to get it back but I am too lazy for that, No way I am Paying to get it working.. I haven't used CDs in the past 10 years in a car... iPod Integration is a god send.
DVD Drive works fine, Just saw the MDX Introduction DVD with it and haven't touched it ever since... Like I said before I wanted RES just for the Power Tailgate
Yeah I have the warning that the DVD drive unit is open or no disc inserted. Both are not true! Oh that's harsh! Linkin Park is a good band! I agree, if it was the disc drive, I would not care, but not having the navi kinda sucks.
By DVD drive I don't mean the one for the RES, I mean the one for navigation under the driver seat! I could not care less if the DVD player did not work. I will not ever be using it!
This is my first car with a power lift gate. I will admit to opening and closing the hatch for no reasom multiple times just to show off haha.
Ohhh you mean the NAV DVD Drive below the drivers seat?
That sucks.
I am with you on the Tailgate hahaha showing it off is like the MUST when loading the groceries and anything...
I kinda wish it cycle was faster though.. Sometimes I use it to load stuff but opening manually instead would be faster XD
Ohhh you mean the NAV DVD Drive below the drivers seat?
That sucks.
I am with you on the Tailgate hahaha showing it off is like the MUST when loading the groceries and anything...
I kinda wish it cycle was faster though.. Sometimes I use it to load stuff but opening manually instead would be faster XD
Yeah the NAV DVD drive. It fricking sucks balls. I gotta hit up the local Acura parts counter to find out how much they charge and then see if it is cheaper by some shred of luck.
I can't wait to load groceries! I don't even use my hatch, usually the back seat. Now I have a reason to open and close it. Imagine me opening it for a bunch of bananas haha.
My 6 disc CD changer does not load-error message, but at least there is not a disc stuck in it. My Nav doesn't work correctly either. The dealer said they just send those units to the manufacture, which is Alpine, so I don't think the dealer sending the unit to Alpine is going to be any less than you sending it to Alpine. I noticed several "factory approved service centers" would fix the Nav unit or CD changer for around $300.
The DVD unit plays CDs just fine, just only one at a time with less controls.
And I love the power tailgate. I told my wife I'm probably gonna wear that thing out....
08-08-2016, 03:12 AM
and so far hasn't been working, It worked when playing the LP CD at first but when I tried to eject it, disaster... The Stereo just keeps a mechanical loop and doesn't do crap with the CD. I need to disassembly the stereo to get it back but I am too lazy for that, No way I am Paying to get it working.. I haven't used CDs in the past 10 years in a car... iPod Integration is a god send.