ghernz

Hello,

My wife's 2007 MDX is leaking grease from passenger side inner CV boot. The boot does not look torn but some how grease is leaking out. Local auto parts has complete axle for $76. I've seen a few youtube videos on how to do it. Does anyone know the torque specs for following: hub nut, bolts on strut and bolts on caliper bracket? Also can someone confirm if alignment is required after replacing axle?

Thank you,
George

nats007

I honestly don't know the specs for torquing. I'm a lot like Eric the Car Guy when it comes to working on my cars, so I usually watch his DIYs as they been the most helpful in tackling new DIYs


I haven't done an axle job yet personally, but I've have several axles replaced on my Civic years back. I do recall needing an alignment afterwards

belairbrian

Were you looking at an MDX specific change? On the 2003-2006 you don't touch the strut bolts. All you do is remove the axle nut, remove the stabilizer link, separate the ball joint. Ant that point you should be able to move the spindle far enough to remove the axle. The manual calls for an alignment chaek, But if the only thing disconnected is the ball joint the alignment shouldn't change.

My FSM ends at 06 but I don't believe the front suspension is radically different.

Carpayment4life

These torque values are more than you'll probably use, because you'll just swing the hub/knuckle out of the way, to get to the axle.
Once the axle nut is off, look at it closely and remember how far the end of the axle protrudes, so you can duplicate that position, when you're done. Some times the axle doesn't get pushed back in quite far enough and sometimes the axle's inner hub is pulled apart, during removal, because someone pulled too hard on it instead of wedging a slotted screwdriver (as a fulcrum) at the far end of the axle, to pop it out. Don't pull on the axle, instead pop it out, from under the vehicle.

Pg. 18-12 & 19-15 MDX 2007 -09 service manual vol 2:

Lug nuts 94 ft/lbs
Spindle nut aka, axle nut 242 ft/lbs + dimple it
Philips bolts holding the rotor snug against the hub 7.2 ft/lbs
Brake line guide 7.2 ft/lbs
Caliper (floating) bolt 53 ft/lbs
Caliper bracket bolt 101 ft/lbs
Tie rod end ball joint 40 ft/lbs + cotter pin
Lower arm ball joint nut 75.9 then 83.2 ft/lbs + cotter pin
On my Sport Model I broke my suspension stroke sensor arm, because it's made of plastic. I should have disconnected the 7.2 ft/lbs nut , before I tried to swing the hub&knuckle assemble out of the way.
Lower shock absorber aka dampener pinch bolt 156 ft/lbs

Stabilizer end link nut (hold the back side with a hex Allan wrench, while you tighten the nut to 58ft/lbs and don't be surprised if you have to cut it off and spend $25 - 35 to replaced the 2 end links.

ghernz

Thanks! I'll attack this next weekend.

Skirmich

I did this myself and its not hard at all.. Bear in mind the boot is just shifted.. If you buy a new clamping tie from Honda and re-grease your current axle you can get by..
If you are still replacing the Axle I highly recommend you use OEM ONLY!! Hondas are known for having high quality CVs and the cheapo Aftermarket parts do not come close at all to those standards.

ghernz

Got this done. Hardest part was removing the inner shaft. Hard to get a good angle to pry loose.

Now to clunking noise and power steering noise

Skirmich

If you used aftermarket better remember how you did this because you will be going back in a couple of years.

ghernz

Help me understand what are some of the problems using aftermarket axle.

Aftermarket axle is 1/2 the price with lifetime warranty. If it fails in 2-3 years I can get another one. Sure it will suck if I have to replace in 2-3 years but everything is easier 2nd time. If this was part of the engine I would consider using OEM.

Skirmich

Because a failing OEM Axle is extremely rare they are built like tanks specially for the J-Series.. Yours didn´t fail at all, Its just the boot that shifted because the clamping tie lost pressure..
The Fix was: Re-grease, New clamping tie = Done. You didn´t need a new CV Axle, Just around 15 bucks worth of parts.

Now you have an Aftermarket Axle that is Inferior in Overall quality to the OEM Axle, Specially the bearings..
That is why we don´t recommend aftermarket axles since its very common to see threads were they failed and in some cases very quickly.. Seeing an OEM Axle mechanically fail? that is very special, Usually they snap because of rust.

The issue with CVs is that, they are just as important as the engine...
If a CV Axle fails you will be stranded on the side of the road, IF it doesn´t cause damage that can lead to an accident in worst case scenario so take that "Lifetime Warranty" with a grain of salt. If the Axle fails it will cost you. Better hold on to that OE Axle, Get it fixed and have it stored for when the Aftermarket fail.

Skirmich

Just for reference..
My TL-S still rocks its OE Honda Axles and they have 220K and I race my TL-S.

ghernz

Carpayment4life

The inboard boot replacement set is $38

The outboard boot set is also $38

MandoTL

I actually just took my 2011 Acura MDX with 83k miles in for this very axle replacement. The Passenger side CV Axle or Acura calls it the RT Drive Shaft Axle, due to clicking on sharp left had turns, the inner boot was not leaking oil but had worn out inside leading to the clicking. I bought my car as CPO so it was covered under Powertrain Warranty determined by my Acura Dealership.

List price for the part was $276.00, and labor was not detailed on the service receipt nor hours for the job. They did have it for 5 hours on a Saturday before they called me to pick it up, also they adjusted any alignment issues up front, although very minor in impact, they did it anyways to prevent an uneven wear on my Michelin tires. But I don't think they did since my steering wheel is not slight off centered to the left.

It drives great! But I noticed there is some remnants of what seems like motor oil possibly found near the inner CV boot that I'm wondering if it's a leak. My car was bone dry when I took it in, so I haven't wiped it to see if it will leak more.

GhostTL09

iTrader: (1)

Ouch on what the cost is altogether. I've read its about $500. I have the clicking on my 2012 MDX as well. Like you MandoTL there is NO visible leaking but clearly there's an issue and there is uneven wear on passenger side tire.

3.2cls6speedmt

I think you are in the atlanta area. Check out Honda A Techs in Duluth. They are legit. Former Dealer Mechanics who opened up their own shops.

GhostTL09

iTrader: (1)

Just called but I think they are closed or busy. Thanks for the referral

Skirmich

Get the Axles Online you can usually find the OE axles in special or at a sale price.
Then get it replaced by yourself (Cheaper)
or
Get a private shop to replace it (Less cheaper)

But for gods sake do not pay the dealership to do this.. Hondas/Acuras have the easiest Axle replacements in the history of cars... You dont need the dealership at all! unless its under warranty.

3.2cls6speedmt

This independent shop only uses oem parts. Most of the customers in the their "waiting room" have been using their services for over ten years.

GhostTL09

iTrader: (1)

I already bought an OE replacement. Gonna take it to a shop to throw on. I figure it'll cost about $100 or so if that . I'm ok with that, especially knowing the dealer will try and charge $5-600 smh

3.2cls6speedmt

The dealer labor rate for a tech has skyrocket to $145 a hour.

GhostTL09

iTrader: (1)

$145 an hour is terrible.

3.2cls6speedmt

the service department has become the biggest profit center in a dealership.

MandoTL

Yeah it most likely would have been about $500.00 but I was glad my CPO Warranty kicked in for this issue, I'm hoping the driver side starts to click to get that replaced too before August of this year. Also there is a very pronounce high pitch sound that is really apparent on the driver's side near center freeway dividers. They were never able to replicate so I'm unsure if it's a wheel bearing issue. Definitely not brakes as I just got new ones, but faint only between 45-60mph.

GhostTL09

iTrader: (1)

Just had axle replaced. No clicking, feels great not to dread a left hand turn again.

VictorTL

Skirmich, what type of grease do you need and what kind of tool to clamp back the champ tie? I have very slight clicking on the right axle at sharp left turn but no leaking from the boot. do you think the grease inside need to get repack or the joint is permanently worn out?

Skirmich

Cannot say without looking at the bearing, but usually "click sounds" = permanent damage to the bearing journal..

VictorTL

Skirmich

Yeah the ball bearing inside the CV:

VictorTL