DIY CV axle replacement
#1
DIY CV axle replacement
Hello,
My wife's 2007 MDX is leaking grease from passenger side inner CV boot. The boot does not look torn but some how grease is leaking out. Local auto parts has complete axle for $76. I've seen a few youtube videos on how to do it. Does anyone know the torque specs for following: hub nut, bolts on strut and bolts on caliper bracket? Also can someone confirm if alignment is required after replacing axle?
Thank you,
George
My wife's 2007 MDX is leaking grease from passenger side inner CV boot. The boot does not look torn but some how grease is leaking out. Local auto parts has complete axle for $76. I've seen a few youtube videos on how to do it. Does anyone know the torque specs for following: hub nut, bolts on strut and bolts on caliper bracket? Also can someone confirm if alignment is required after replacing axle?
Thank you,
George
#2
Burning Brakes
I honestly don't know the specs for torquing. I'm a lot like Eric the Car Guy when it comes to working on my cars, so I usually watch his DIYs as they been the most helpful in tackling new DIYs
I haven't done an axle job yet personally, but I've have several axles replaced on my Civic years back. I do recall needing an alignment afterwards
I haven't done an axle job yet personally, but I've have several axles replaced on my Civic years back. I do recall needing an alignment afterwards
#3
Were you looking at an MDX specific change? On the 2003-2006 you don't touch the strut bolts. All you do is remove the axle nut, remove the stabilizer link, separate the ball joint. Ant that point you should be able to move the spindle far enough to remove the axle. The manual calls for an alignment chaek, But if the only thing disconnected is the ball joint the alignment shouldn't change.
My FSM ends at 06 but I don't believe the front suspension is radically different.
My FSM ends at 06 but I don't believe the front suspension is radically different.
#4
These torque values are more than you'll probably use, because you'll just swing the hub/knuckle out of the way, to get to the axle.
Once the axle nut is off, look at it closely and remember how far the end of the axle protrudes, so you can duplicate that position, when you're done. Some times the axle doesn't get pushed back in quite far enough and sometimes the axle's inner hub is pulled apart, during removal, because someone pulled too hard on it instead of wedging a slotted screwdriver (as a fulcrum) at the far end of the axle, to pop it out. Don't pull on the axle, instead pop it out, from under the vehicle.
Pg. 18-12 & 19-15 MDX 2007 -09 service manual vol 2:
Lug nuts 94 ft/lbs
Spindle nut aka, axle nut 242 ft/lbs + dimple it
Philips bolts holding the rotor snug against the hub 7.2 ft/lbs
Brake line guide 7.2 ft/lbs
Caliper (floating) bolt 53 ft/lbs
Caliper bracket bolt 101 ft/lbs
Tie rod end ball joint 40 ft/lbs + cotter pin
Lower arm ball joint nut 75.9 then 83.2 ft/lbs + cotter pin
On my Sport Model I broke my suspension stroke sensor arm, because it's made of plastic. I should have disconnected the 7.2 ft/lbs nut , before I tried to swing the hub&knuckle assemble out of the way.
Lower shock absorber aka dampener pinch bolt 156 ft/lbs
Stabilizer end link nut (hold the back side with a hex Allan wrench, while you tighten the nut to 58ft/lbs and don't be surprised if you have to cut it off and spend $25 - 35 to replaced the 2 end links.
Once the axle nut is off, look at it closely and remember how far the end of the axle protrudes, so you can duplicate that position, when you're done. Some times the axle doesn't get pushed back in quite far enough and sometimes the axle's inner hub is pulled apart, during removal, because someone pulled too hard on it instead of wedging a slotted screwdriver (as a fulcrum) at the far end of the axle, to pop it out. Don't pull on the axle, instead pop it out, from under the vehicle.
Pg. 18-12 & 19-15 MDX 2007 -09 service manual vol 2:
Lug nuts 94 ft/lbs
Spindle nut aka, axle nut 242 ft/lbs + dimple it
Philips bolts holding the rotor snug against the hub 7.2 ft/lbs
Brake line guide 7.2 ft/lbs
Caliper (floating) bolt 53 ft/lbs
Caliper bracket bolt 101 ft/lbs
Tie rod end ball joint 40 ft/lbs + cotter pin
Lower arm ball joint nut 75.9 then 83.2 ft/lbs + cotter pin
On my Sport Model I broke my suspension stroke sensor arm, because it's made of plastic. I should have disconnected the 7.2 ft/lbs nut , before I tried to swing the hub&knuckle assemble out of the way.
Lower shock absorber aka dampener pinch bolt 156 ft/lbs
Stabilizer end link nut (hold the back side with a hex Allan wrench, while you tighten the nut to 58ft/lbs and don't be surprised if you have to cut it off and spend $25 - 35 to replaced the 2 end links.
#6
Moderator
I did this myself and its not hard at all.. Bear in mind the boot is just shifted.. If you buy a new clamping tie from Honda and re-grease your current axle you can get by..
If you are still replacing the Axle I highly recommend you use OEM ONLY!! Hondas are known for having high quality CVs and the cheapo Aftermarket parts do not come close at all to those standards.
If you are still replacing the Axle I highly recommend you use OEM ONLY!! Hondas are known for having high quality CVs and the cheapo Aftermarket parts do not come close at all to those standards.
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#9
Aftermarket axle is 1/2 the price with lifetime warranty. If it fails in 2-3 years I can get another one. Sure it will suck if I have to replace in 2-3 years but everything is easier 2nd time. If this was part of the engine I would consider using OEM.
#10
Moderator
Because a failing OEM Axle is extremely rare they are built like tanks specially for the J-Series.. Yours didn´t fail at all, Its just the boot that shifted because the clamping tie lost pressure..
The Fix was: Re-grease, New clamping tie = Done. You didn´t need a new CV Axle, Just around 15 bucks worth of parts.
Now you have an Aftermarket Axle that is Inferior in Overall quality to the OEM Axle, Specially the bearings..
That is why we don´t recommend aftermarket axles since its very common to see threads were they failed and in some cases very quickly.. Seeing an OEM Axle mechanically fail? that is very special, Usually they snap because of rust.
The issue with CVs is that, they are just as important as the engine...
If a CV Axle fails you will be stranded on the side of the road, IF it doesn´t cause damage that can lead to an accident in worst case scenario so take that "Lifetime Warranty" with a grain of salt. If the Axle fails it will cost you. Better hold on to that OE Axle, Get it fixed and have it stored for when the Aftermarket fail.
The Fix was: Re-grease, New clamping tie = Done. You didn´t need a new CV Axle, Just around 15 bucks worth of parts.
Now you have an Aftermarket Axle that is Inferior in Overall quality to the OEM Axle, Specially the bearings..
That is why we don´t recommend aftermarket axles since its very common to see threads were they failed and in some cases very quickly.. Seeing an OEM Axle mechanically fail? that is very special, Usually they snap because of rust.
The issue with CVs is that, they are just as important as the engine...
If a CV Axle fails you will be stranded on the side of the road, IF it doesn´t cause damage that can lead to an accident in worst case scenario so take that "Lifetime Warranty" with a grain of salt. If the Axle fails it will cost you. Better hold on to that OE Axle, Get it fixed and have it stored for when the Aftermarket fail.
Last edited by Skirmich; 02-07-2018 at 04:09 PM.
#12
Well I still have my OEM axle that I could re-grease and put a new clamp if I had to. My oem axle has over 130K miles on it. The inner boot was the one leaking but the outer joint is very loose compared to new aftermarket axle. If my aftermarket lasts 1/2 miles of my oem I’m ok with it. By the end of the year this will become our spare vehicle.
I do all of my own service so I notice when something is leaking. If your axle is rusted and failing it has been ignored for a long time to get to that point.
Worst part I can see is the boots not lasting as long as oem and tearing. I had that problem with a passatt that would tear boots every 30k miles. I got to the point wear I could swap one out in an hour. If it comes to that I will put oem axle back on.
I just cant see how 130k mile axle is better than new aftermarket axle.
I do all of my own service so I notice when something is leaking. If your axle is rusted and failing it has been ignored for a long time to get to that point.
Worst part I can see is the boots not lasting as long as oem and tearing. I had that problem with a passatt that would tear boots every 30k miles. I got to the point wear I could swap one out in an hour. If it comes to that I will put oem axle back on.
I just cant see how 130k mile axle is better than new aftermarket axle.
#14
Burning Brakes
I actually just took my 2011 Acura MDX with 83k miles in for this very axle replacement. The Passenger side CV Axle or Acura calls it the RT Drive Shaft Axle, due to clicking on sharp left had turns, the inner boot was not leaking oil but had worn out inside leading to the clicking. I bought my car as CPO so it was covered under Powertrain Warranty determined by my Acura Dealership.
List price for the part was $276.00, and labor was not detailed on the service receipt nor hours for the job. They did have it for 5 hours on a Saturday before they called me to pick it up, also they adjusted any alignment issues up front, although very minor in impact, they did it anyways to prevent an uneven wear on my Michelin tires. But I don't think they did since my steering wheel is not slight off centered to the left.
It drives great! But I noticed there is some remnants of what seems like motor oil possibly found near the inner CV boot that I'm wondering if it's a leak. My car was bone dry when I took it in, so I haven't wiped it to see if it will leak more.
List price for the part was $276.00, and labor was not detailed on the service receipt nor hours for the job. They did have it for 5 hours on a Saturday before they called me to pick it up, also they adjusted any alignment issues up front, although very minor in impact, they did it anyways to prevent an uneven wear on my Michelin tires. But I don't think they did since my steering wheel is not slight off centered to the left.
It drives great! But I noticed there is some remnants of what seems like motor oil possibly found near the inner CV boot that I'm wondering if it's a leak. My car was bone dry when I took it in, so I haven't wiped it to see if it will leak more.
#16
I think you are in the atlanta area. Check out Honda A Techs in Duluth. They are legit. Former Dealer Mechanics who opened up their own shops.
#18
Moderator
Get the Axles Online you can usually find the OE axles in special or at a sale price.
Then get it replaced by yourself (Cheaper)
or
Get a private shop to replace it (Less cheaper)
But for gods sake do not pay the dealership to do this.. Hondas/Acuras have the easiest Axle replacements in the history of cars... You dont need the dealership at all! unless its under warranty.
Then get it replaced by yourself (Cheaper)
or
Get a private shop to replace it (Less cheaper)
But for gods sake do not pay the dealership to do this.. Hondas/Acuras have the easiest Axle replacements in the history of cars... You dont need the dealership at all! unless its under warranty.
#19
This independent shop only uses oem parts. Most of the customers in the their "waiting room" have been using their services for over ten years.
#21
#23
#24
Burning Brakes
Yeah it most likely would have been about $500.00 but I was glad my CPO Warranty kicked in for this issue, I'm hoping the driver side starts to click to get that replaced too before August of this year. Also there is a very pronounce high pitch sound that is really apparent on the driver's side near center freeway dividers. They were never able to replicate so I'm unsure if it's a wheel bearing issue. Definitely not brakes as I just got new ones, but faint only between 45-60mph.
#26
Because a failing OEM Axle is extremely rare they are built like tanks specially for the J-Series.. Yours didn´t fail at all, Its just the boot that shifted because the clamping tie lost pressure..
The Fix was: Re-grease, New clamping tie = Done. You didn´t need a new CV Axle, Just around 15 bucks worth of parts.
Now you have an Aftermarket Axle that is Inferior in Overall quality to the OEM Axle, Specially the bearings..
That is why we don´t recommend aftermarket axles since its very common to see threads were they failed and in some cases very quickly.. Seeing an OEM Axle mechanically fail? that is very special, Usually they snap because of rust.
The issue with CVs is that, they are just as important as the engine...
If a CV Axle fails you will be stranded on the side of the road, IF it doesn´t cause damage that can lead to an accident in worst case scenario so take that "Lifetime Warranty" with a grain of salt. If the Axle fails it will cost you. Better hold on to that OE Axle, Get it fixed and have it stored for when the Aftermarket fail.
The Fix was: Re-grease, New clamping tie = Done. You didn´t need a new CV Axle, Just around 15 bucks worth of parts.
Now you have an Aftermarket Axle that is Inferior in Overall quality to the OEM Axle, Specially the bearings..
That is why we don´t recommend aftermarket axles since its very common to see threads were they failed and in some cases very quickly.. Seeing an OEM Axle mechanically fail? that is very special, Usually they snap because of rust.
The issue with CVs is that, they are just as important as the engine...
If a CV Axle fails you will be stranded on the side of the road, IF it doesn´t cause damage that can lead to an accident in worst case scenario so take that "Lifetime Warranty" with a grain of salt. If the Axle fails it will cost you. Better hold on to that OE Axle, Get it fixed and have it stored for when the Aftermarket fail.
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