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Sorry for the lack of update to this thread... I was out of the country for work for a bit and I haven't had time to do anything to the X. I have a detailer scheduled to come out and give it a good cleaning, so I should have some updates next week
In the meantime, I've taken the RSX out for some spirited driving, got tuned (currently 268whp/214wtq at 7600 w/ 5PSI), ran an autocross event back in late Feb. I also got my A-Specs on this past weekend
Currently how it looks (don't mind the popped hood. I was at a car meet and had to keep the hood lowered)
Working on getting my A-Spec lip kit painted, bumper painted, headlights restored and sealed, and the car would be pic worthy
Nice I'm liking the 2009 to 2013 style a little more now, especially the black color cause it looks mean! Looking for a 7 passenger vehicle as I am foster caring for 3 additional children. But those damn Jewel headlights though on the 2014 and up make me want one soooo bad.
Nice I'm liking the 2009 to 2013 style a little more now, especially the black color cause it looks mean! Looking for a 7 passenger vehicle as I am foster caring for 3 additional children. But those damn Jewel headlights though on the 2014 and up make me want one soooo bad.
The 3rd row is only made for small kids (or adults you dislike), hard to get in/out, not very easy to put up/down, and you have enough room in the rear when the seat is up for a couple of grocery bags in the hatch. Honda Pilot would have more interior room; but, it wouldn't be as comfortable, as fast/powerful, handle as well, or look as good as the MDX.
Well my family as of right now is a 10, 8, 4, 3, and 2 year old. I think I should be good for at least 7 years in that department. I really need to get in one and see it in person but I've had a really busy schedule for the past month.
Nice I'm liking the 2009 to 2013 style a little more now, especially the black color cause it looks mean! Looking for a 7 passenger vehicle as I am foster caring for 3 additional children. But those damn Jewel headlights though on the 2014 and up make me want one soooo bad.
Sir, both are awesome vehicles. When I bought my wife's 2011 MDX, the dealer had to install the RES, so we were loaned a 2014 MDX Tech for a few weeks
So, here is my comparision of the 2014 Tech vs the 2011 Tech (what I own now)
Pros for the 2014:
* the jewel eye lights are beautiful
* better gas mileage
* more tech features standard (touch screen MFD, lane departure/blind spot indicator)
* Longer body
* more room in 3rd row/easier access
* drives more like a car (sedan) in my opinion
Pros of the 2011:
* feels sportier (power, look, feel)
* shorter body (much easier to fit in my garage. I barely got the 2014 in my garage
* SEATS (I think the seats are more comfortable in the 2011. More cushion and luxury feel)
* Cheaper - Certified Pre-Owned
It all boils down to what you are looking for out of the vehicle. We went back and forth on SUV vs minivan, then which SUV and ultimately the MDX was the best bang for the buck regarding features required and to price.
Thanks for all that info, not trying to jack your thread. We have 2 vehicles that are already paid off, an SH AWD RDX and 06 A Spec TL, and don't see the problem affording another vehicle for trips out the house or whatnot. Ill see what I can afford April 27th when we go and get everything finalized for this Kinship thing we have going on. I'm sure the drug addict mom is going to miss it and everything will be in our favor to get financially compensated. Its kind of hard fitting 5 kids nor is it safe in the vehicles I own.
Thanks for all that info, not trying to jack your thread. We have 2 vehicles that are already paid off, an SH AWD RDX and 06 A Spec TL, and don't see the problem affording another vehicle for trips out the house or whatnot. Ill see what I can afford April 27th when we go and get everything finalized for this Kinship thing we have going on. I'm sure the drug addict mom is going to miss it and everything will be in our favor to get financially compensated. Its kind of hard fitting 5 kids nor is it safe in the vehicles I own.
I have a roof rack with an Yakima rocketbox cargo box; but, it is too high for my 4'11" wife to reach. I just purchased a stowaway Max 16 cu. ft. hitch mount cargo box that swings out to open the hatch. Almost everything you would put in hatch area can almost fit in the stowaway so you can use the 3rd row for kids for trips. You can use OEM or aftermarket 2" hitch, I went OEM because I added a full size spare tire. The carrier comes with lights (left/right turn/brake, can add license plate lights) and uses the 4 flat trailer hitch electrical connection. You can purchase the Curt plug-n-go wiring for $32 from etrailer.com and 10 mins to connect it up with existing connections under the MDX's rear panel in the hatch. I wish I gone this route 1st instead of getting the roof carrier.
Got a Maintenance minder A1 about 2 weeks ago, so I brought it in for a oil change + filter last week Friday. I had a a couple things to look at under warranty (the driver side mirror auto adjust was sticking and the P/S pump made slight noises in cooler weather).
They talked me into a tire rotation (I only did it because the car is still under warranty and I don't want them to give me a hard time). The dealership replaced the driver side mirror actuator and could not replicate the noise in the P/S. The checked it and confirmed there was no air getting into the system.
I've noticed the driver seat has a small part where the leather is flaking up. Do you guys think its covered under the basic warranty? I've read that some were successful and others claim its wear and tear item.
installed curt 2" tow hitch, wiring kit, and LED reverse lights
I ordered the Acura OEM rubber hitch cover to complete the look. I keep the mount and ball hitch in the hidden compartment in the trunk. I also noticed that the 3rd row right passenger seat back was lifting from the actual seat and saw the tabs were broken. Going to get new clips to fix that as well.
Nice rides. Love the integra. I had a 92 integra LS vtech swap back in 1995. That was my favourite car I ever owned. That hitch is on my to do list very soon.
Nice rides. Love the integra. I had a 92 integra LS vtech swap back in 1995. That was my favourite car I ever owned. That hitch is on my to do list very soon.
I wanted a teggy so bad, but had fun with my Civics (used to have a '87 Honda Civic coupe, '92 Civic Si, and '98 Honda Civic CX). After that, I joined the Acura family and just cause you mentioned swap, I felt obligated...
Completing 60,000 mile service at the stealership. This will be my last service since my CPO status drops after 62,500 miles. They almost got me with an oil change deal, then I got caught off guard with new air filters for $110...
The filters caist more than my damn oil change service
In other news... Did a little work on my RSX. New mishimoto radiator, fan shroud kit, fan switch, and custom Honda Valve cover.
Also picked up an AEM water methanol injection kit to be installed sometime this year when I get time. Once I do that, swap crank pulley and retune, I should be good on engine mods. Need new tires and brakes for Xmas!
How hard was it to install your Curt trailer hitch? I found a great deal for one on amazon, but read the reviews...seems most people who left reviews had a really hard time installing it. Biggest complaint was that it didn't fit quite right. So, instead of buying that, I got some Weather Tech floor liners. Nice X...mine is a 2010, black like yours, but with the saddle interior. As for the filters...next time, just buy a cabin air filter, and install it yourself. I bought the filter at my Acura dealer, but you can get them at most parts stores. Took about 5 minutes to install it, using instructions I found on YouTube.
Hey, did you ever talked to the dealer about the driver's seat leather. I purchased mine used and I notice tiny flakes on the driver's seat leather also. I only have 20k miles on it so i'll talk to them when I go in next time for an oil change.
How hard was it to install your Curt trailer hitch? I found a great deal for one on amazon, but read the reviews...seems most people who left reviews had a really hard time installing it. Biggest complaint was that it didn't fit quite right. So, instead of buying that, I got some Weather Tech floor liners. Nice X...mine is a 2010, black like yours, but with the saddle interior. As for the filters...next time, just buy a cabin air filter, and install it yourself. I bought the filter at my Acura dealer, but you can get them at most parts stores. Took about 5 minutes to install it, using instructions I found on YouTube.
The install was not bad; however, there were some fitment issues. Nothing that could not be overcome... My BIGGEST recommendation is know what bolts goes where. I think we battled because we crossed threaded 2 bolts and that caused significant issues. My dad started them flipped and we could not get it back right. I was out of time, so we ended up installing as is and one bolt is currently leaned going in using a high impact torque wrench
And yes, filters will be installed by me in the future!
Originally Posted by SQLnovice
Hey, did you ever talked to the dealer about the driver's seat leather. I purchased mine used and I notice tiny flakes on the driver's seat leather also. I only have 20k miles on it so i'll talk to them when I go in next time for an oil change.
I didn't since I was outside the 50K warranty. I read it was hit or miss and I'm currently at 60K and figured it would be declined.
If you are at 20K, I'd definitely recommend giving it a shot
Has anyone experienced a whining/whistling noise during acceleration? At first, I thought it was the P/S pump and I took it to Acura last year to check it out. P/S checked out fine and the noise subsided. Fast forward to about November this year, the noise has come back.
It seems to come around when the temps drop and only during acceleration. I was thinking it was the wheel bearing, but the sound goes away and I would assume the wheel bearing would be a constant whine/noise.
Now that I'm out of the CPO window, doing my first oil change on the X. Went with Castrol GTX 5W-20 with a Mobil 1 oil filter. I'm used to m lowered cars, so started pulling out jacks and theh I realized it's not needed lol.
We went over the MID (for B1) recommendation about 750 miles, but not too worried. Draining old oil now and it's literally feels like a 10 min job...
Going to check brakes, trans fluid level, and probably need tires in the next 5K miles.
hahahaha I feel the same after working with the TL vs the MDX... With the TL I have to take out all sorts of stuff to do the engine oil, Its about 30 min job just because I have to take all stuff out and in. The MDX takes less than 10 minutes with a couple of ramps.
X is shaking while braking now, so it's time to research some rotors and brakes for a DIY next weekend. Most likely will get cryo treated centric blanks for rotors and some solid pads. After that brake job, will need to get tires in May as the Michelin's are getting low...
Just so happens I put new rubber on my RSX 2 weeks ago and one of my wheels are bent, ugh. Need to get that straighten as it's screwing with my alignment. And, on top of that, I'm hitting the wear bars on my brakes as of last night for the RSX, so need brakes there too.
Completed the brake job today. Took approximately 6 hours with 3 trips to the parts store
Install was very straightforward... Just need the right tools
Front driver before
Front driver after
Some lessons learned...
1) Have a good Jack (trip 1).
2) When those damn screws holding the rotor won't budge, get 2 ball hammers(trip 2), place one ball end on the screw and hit that hammer several times. Eventually will loosen and can be unscrewed
3) Have a proper impact gun to pull the caliper mount bolts (trip 3). This was a waste for me because I went cheap on the impact gun and didn't work. Returning it
4) don't forget to transfer shims to the new pads... I forgot on the first wheel and had to redo it
I ended up using the jack handle as a cheater bar and was able to use bodyweight to crack it
Smooth sailing otherwise until the very last rotor. As I was sliding on the rotor, I saw this fall...
I had no clue, so was scouring the net thinking it was internal to the ebrake system. After staring at it for 45 mins and searching online and gave up. Everything looked fine and nothing was loose, so I started to reassemble by mounting the rotor and then the caliper mount and boom... Found where it belongs
Washer between the caliper mount bracket and the actual caliper
All is well and breaking in the new pads and rotors!
Didn't opt for cross-drilled fancy pants rotors? I've only got 40K on my 2013 CPO, but when I need new I'm thinking of going in that direction. I wish there were caliper options. Painted OEM calipers look too "wanna-be" for me.
Didn't opt for cross-drilled fancy pants rotors? I've only got 40K on my 2013 CPO, but when I need new I'm thinking of going in that direction. I wish there were caliper options. Painted OEM calipers look too "wanna-be" for me.
Not to go in the debates between blanks, cross drilled, and slotted rotors; I stuck with blanks for more braking surface area, especially with this vehicle's size.
Not to go in the debates between blanks, cross drilled, and slotted rotors; I stuck with blanks for more braking surface area, especially with this vehicle's size.
Good choice! Lots of the cheaper drilled/slotted options are garbage. I went with the racing brake front rotors and blank rears since I was tired of the Acura ones warping/pulsing and they have lasted over 100K miles on my 3GTL!
If you ever need an extra hand let me know! I'm always in the Central FL area driving about. Don't mind helping another aziner out
Good choice! Lots of the cheaper drilled/slotted options are garbage. I went with the racing brake front rotors and blank rears since I was tired of the Acura ones warping/pulsing and they have lasted over 100K miles on my 3GTL!
If you ever need an extra hand let me know! I'm always in the Central FL area driving about. Don't mind helping another aziner out
I bought some fairly cheap rotors for my MDX but used the Honda pads. The cheap rotors are doing a lot better than the Acura rotors that were on there before. What is the deal with Honda rotors. Do they make them less durable to somehow improve stopping power. BMW was notorious for this. They designed their rotors to be eaten by the brake pads. So, you almost had to replace the rotors everytime you replaced the pads. Honda seems to have gone down that same path as I have had this problem with my MDX rotors, My 06 TL rotors and now my 2013 RDX with 40K miles has warped rotors that are causing wheel shake as well. WTF! Honda. At least the rotors are consistently crappy! Will never use their rotors again.
Just hit 72,300 miles on the X and the A16 service is showing on the MID. I'll most likely do it myself by next weekend. Any recommendations for ATF fluid or should I stick with Honda?
Also, need 4 tires I need a good brand that won't break the bank. Trying to stay between $120-150 per tire,so any recommendationa would be greatly appreciated!
Just hit 72,300 miles on the X and the A16 service is showing on the MID. I'll most likely do it myself by next weekend. Any recommendations for ATF fluid or should I stick with Honda?
Also, need 4 tires I need a good brand that won't break the bank. Trying to stay between $120-150 per tire,so any recommendationa would be greatly appreciated!
Buy a case of DW-1 Trans fluid from honda and you'll get a discount as you are buying a case! Should be around $90 for the case of 12 quarts and it's great to keep on hand for the future.
I've been eyeing tires for a bit now and it seems there are quite the options. Discount tire has a great deal esp for the 4th of july where you can save quite a bit of money.
04-06-2015, 04:03 PM
