Installed the iJDMTOY LED 57 LED bi-color swichbacks last weekend along with their New 128-SMD LED Xenon DRLs and as long as I had everything up in the air I decided to put in some 6000K HIDss for the fogs. Here are some pics. The switchbacks are my favorite of all the mods. A couple of the first images are the iJDMTOY CREE LED DRLs but i swapped them out for the 128-SMD LEDs instead, due to the heat shield blocking most of the light coming from the main CREE LED emitter in the center.

[IMG]https://acurazine.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=12476&pictureid=55535
[/IMG]
Pics of the old standard yellow 1157 bulb on left and the new 1157 LED switchback on right
[IMG]https://acurazine.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=12476&pictureid=55576[/IMG
]New 128-SMD LEDs from iJDMTOY
[IMG]https://acurazine.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=12476&pictureid=55576[/IMG
]DRLs with 1157s

Emergency lights pic while flashing.

With turn signal on

Low beams and 1157s

Low beams plus new 1157s plus new HID Fogs! Kinda bright?


Lastly everthing with a pic of the turn signal "switching back!"
Sorry for the play by play, kinda new at this posting thread stuff. all ou need to do is make a picture book out of this and turn the pages real fast! lol

 

I like that Mo. The white looks much better on the white TL than the yellow.

 

Thanks! I really appreciate that especially coming from you.

 

How is the turn signal on at the same time?

 

The Xenon white stays on the whole time while the parking lights are on, the pics is a quick still while the left amber was flashing. I had to purchase the decoder they sell in order to keep is from flashing super fast. After i put the decoder the turn signal functioned normally. Here is the link to the page that explains a little more
http://store.ijdmtoy.com/BAY14d-2357...157_sku_3e.htm
So your seeing a still while the yellow is flashing but the Xenon white stays a constant white and does not flash.
I need to learn how to do a youtube video.

 

That looks really cool! Good job!

I might do it on my 2012. Im not sure if the cover is yellow or not though. will check!

 

Did u install them without taking off the bumper? How did u remove the indicator light .I've been waiting to install because I thought I had to remove the bumper.

And if u can recall which two wires u spliced together that would be really helpful swell,might do it tomorrow if its simple.

 

Really like the looks of this mod,you have just given me an idea of what i will be doing next,i have the ijdm drl's and they have held up well so far,seem like a quality product.
Good job!!!

 

No need for bumper removal, in fact you can reach the bolt without even lifting the car, 10 mm hex I think used. Only one bolt to take off and then push forward from that side and the other side stood in with a lip. Trust me it's easy. Then I pulled out the self enclosed light fixture. Wire clips off and pull it out far enough to expose so slack. I sliced my wires with a waterproof T splicer. The decoder has 2 wires splice one to the center black ground wire and the other end to the turn signal hot which was the thicker of the other remaining. I'll look into the actual color of the wire later today but you might be able to zoom in on the pic.

All the covers I have ever seen are clear. The reason it looks yellow all the time is due the the amber 1157 glass bulb inside.

 

Thank you for sharing this photos, don't know why Acura for 12's model they changed the bulb size to 3157/3457 bulb.

Which wire did you tap for the driver side?

 

There were 3 wires. The ground wire and the turn signal wire are the same thickness black for ground in the center and a blue wire for turning signal. The 3rd wire was thinner than the other 2 wires and is used for the marker lights.

(Keep in mind I did this last week and didn't take a pic of the driver side, but for sure use the 2 thicker wires). I can double check later in the day.

 

Guys, I highly recommend this mod. It's really worth it.

 

That would be great Thanks in advance.

 

Just to review a switchback operation. This unit uses 57 LEDs to produce a Xenon white color and only when you operate your turn signal it uses the same 57 LEDs to produce a amber light output. Turn off your turn signal and you have a constant Xenon white color while you have the side markers switched on of course. Otherwise they are off. Hence the "Switchback" name.

 

On the passenger side when using the decoder which is a must "
1 pair 50W 6Ohm load resistors [Add $5.99]
We recommend this optional item with this product"

Splice on end of the decoder using a waterproof splicer with the center black wire and splice the other end of the decoder to the green with grey striped wire.
On the driver side splice one end of the 2nd decoder to the center black wire and the other end of the decoder to the blue and grey striped wire.
"I CAN ONLY CONFIRM THIS FOR A 2009 TL"

 

Big mo, good job man. I have an 09 too, so I will copy your mod. To make sure I place all in one order, can you give me the list of items u ordered. Thanks man!

 

Just installed it myself, thanks for the help, really took about 10 mins per side.

issue i ran into, the lights dont switch from white to amber when signaling, they just flash amber with the white on aswell, bascially giving a faint flash of amber. i think im hyperblinking, but not sure, doesnt seem that fast to me. any ideas?

 

Did u have to take out the battery and washer fluid reservior to put the LED day time running lights in.?

 

bigMO, you think ur gonna sand and plastidip those foglight housings? your close up seems like they take a beating.

 

Log onto this site

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/BAY14d-2357...157_sku_3e.htm

On the same page directly underneath "availability" it should have the " choose your options" menu. Typically and sure the load resistor is checked.


1 pair 50W 6Ohm load resistors [Add $5.99]
We recommend this optional item with this product.

Currently they are having a 15% off $100 or more
Labor Day Promo. So to take advantage you might want to get a couple of door curtesy lights or something.

 

What did you secure the load resistors to?

 

It sounds like you are going to need the resistors. I tested the LED first without the load resistor and I had a hyper flashing issue, it was like the turn signal was on steroids. So I tested it with the resistor and fixed it rite up.
Here is the link for the resistor only.

http://http://store.ijdmtoy.com/50W-Load-Resistor-Blinkers-License-Plate-Light-Fix-p/led_load_resistor.htm



optional


1 pair 50W 6Ohm load resistors [Add $5.99]
We recommend this optional item with this product

 

Yea, the only way to get to the DRLs was to remove the battery ( So have your codes handy) and to move the antifreeze resovoir, it lifts right up and move it to the side. No real need to disconnect the tubing. I mounted the decoder right on the metal with a cople of sheet metal screws.

 

Yea, I hesitated on posting those pics for that reason but I decided to take one for the team! I really want to have all of the grey from the grill all the way down to the fog light housing painted in the factory pearl white. I want keep the front a solid color with no grey. Just chrome out the mesh of the grill only, all the rest white. What do you think?

 

Thank you for the info Big mo, but I'm still having issues with my setup and hopefully you don't mind if I post a question in your thread but the 2012 models don't carry same bulb (1157) I've the 3457 model and every time they turn on a fuse gets blown however I'm using a 50 watts 3ohm resistor and don't know if that's the reason. Can someone who has done this on their 12' model with switchbacks please shine in, JLC lightning has been nice to exchange the bulb several time and same problem.

 

I like this mod so i decided to order the switchbacks,seems that there is a 60 smd available.Big mo, thanks for your informative thread.

 

i did add the 60w 6Ohm load resistors, they came with the same t clips, i'll make sure i pushed them down fully. do they have to go on a certain way, or can any wire from the resistor go to any wire on the signal harness? i'll check the fuse for em aswell. will report back

if you paint everything, are you gonna get the front clear bra'd aswell? i was thinking about getting the front grill painted to color match the car, but i was thinking about leaving the shield and doing the the trim around it, still undecided about it

 

Just to note, if ordering from iJDMTOY to order the Bi-color 57 LEDs and not the 60 LEDs. The Bi-color uses the same 57 leds to produce both the white and amber color outputs. The 60 LED one has 30 white and another separate 30 amber LEDs. So basically the 57 Bi-color is twice as bright as the 30 + 30 aka 60 Led ones. They are bright enough to be mistaken as Daytime Running Lights so I usually leave my light switched to side markers on to go with my Led DRLs.

Sorry if you knew that already but it's worth the extra 9 dollars if you didn't.

 

Big mo, did you purchase the New 128-SMD Xenon DRL there too? I cant seem to find it on their site.

 

Yes I did. Here is the direct link

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/120-SMD-900...-lights-4l.htm

I had an issue with the decoder wiring. I assumed it was the same as for the CREE LED DRL and when it arrived it would not hook up. I emailed them and they gave me the correct info i needed and i ordered it with no problems.

Here is that link for the correct decoder and wire hook ups.

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/LED-Daytime...decoder-01.htm

The correct decoder set you will need for your DRL light is an R2 decoder set up which can be purchased by using the above link. Please note, you have to select R2 in the options field to receive the correct set up.

So I am not sure if the optional decoder they list directly with the first link i posted above is the same decoder as the second link I posted above. That was what I got for "assuming".


It might be worthwhile to check your t clips. I know when I did the first side it took 3 attempts before I used the clips properly, the wire kept on slipping out the side on 2 attempts and on another attempt I didn't have one end in deep enough. The other side was a breeze after the first trial and error. And as for the wires you really need a basic tester. The center solid black wire should be the ground and as for the other 2 wires you need to test. Just put the lights in side marker mode and test which of the 2 wires have power. In my 2009 the Driver side was Blue with grey stripes and passenger side was green with grey stripes.

 

To much confusing info in this post. If someone can update the original post of exactly what we need to get this done and how to do it I would really appreciate it. And if there is any difference for the 2012?

 

Good idea pimpin-tl, we will start a thread tomorrow with the DRLs only. I'll try also to take a few more detailed picks of the wires I spliced and all the proper info for the turn signals. I won't be as good as your HID thread but I'll give it a shot. And thanks again for that great thread, I would have not tried this out if it wasn't for that thread to get me started.

I have no idea about the wires on a 2012 but if you get a chance to pull out turn signal enclosure and see what colors are your wires. There is a chance it's the same and they only changed the bulb holder.

 

Hmm my how to pictures might show those wires actually.......

Never mind....only one is visible. White. :/

 

quick question, would i need resistors for the taillight indicators aswell? i put white LEDs in em the other night. could that be causing hyper blinking aswell?

just a thought, if you guys continue this thread for the DRLs https://acurazine.com/forums/4g-tl-2009-2014-123/hid-vs-led-driving-fog-841297/
it'll help everyone. UNLESS you guys are making a pimpin style HOW TO, then more power to you guys!!!!

 

update: just installed my regular bulbs back in, and there was no hyper blinking with LED tail turn signals.

I went and tried reinstalling the Load Resistors, basically found out that the T wire connectors were not cutting deep enough into my wires, so i stripped the wires on the load resistor down a bit, and it still didnt work. after multiple attempts to use the T connectors, i opened the up the t wire connector to remove the resistor and black ground wire, found out that the black ground wire was cut in half. fml. removed the Blue wire (driver side) wire, found out that was cut in half aswell. double FML.

spent close to 30 mins soldering the wires back together and making sure it all worked. i thought to myself, might aswell add the load resistors directly. i added them directly, and i was still getting hyper blink issues.

Just ordered another set of Load resistors from iJDMToy, hopefully that'll solve my issue.

Good luck to all you guys attempting this mod.

side note: where is everyone mounting their resistors? it says to mount them on the metal portion but where would that be?

 

Pics of Whats going on with me:








LEDs working, but im getting HyperBlink issues, so i removed them and installed the stock bulbs.

 

Once I get a list of bulbs and links to where to get the exact ones I will probably try this. And anything else I need to get like resistors, etc.

Want to replace my day time running lights and those blinkers. And since I am taking my bumper off to put the body kit on that I am ordering tomorrow or Tuesday, I can do it then.

 

Guys, I'm not sure if you were aware of this, but we have a multi-quote button. In the lower right hand corner of each post, the middle icon is that button.

It allows you to respond to more than one person in a single response.

Please be sure to give it a try!

 

Due to the confusion of this thread regarding 1157 switchbacks and the DRL I started a new thread copying pimpin-tl how to guides. Look for G-006: How-To: Install 1157 Switchbacks on a 4th gen TL 09 - 11. I plan on starting a thread of the the iJDMTOY 128 - SMD LED DRLs in the next couple of days to keep the confusion to a minimum. I took more pics of the DRL wires and how i mounted them.

 

How did you confirm this? I don't see 2012 in Sylvania's bulb finder. Thank you