Brake Fluid change
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
All Im saying is if you put new pads on they should be broken in before you try to perform a hard stop to activate ABS because they are not bed in yet none of the pad material has transferred to the rotor. How much will it matter? Who knows just saying I would follow the procedure.
This is what I follow
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...formance.shtml
Bedding-in Street-Performance Pads
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
This is what I follow
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...formance.shtml
Bedding-in Street-Performance Pads
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
You can really tell when the transfer layer is gone. Besides the squeak, the rotors look like you polished them.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,442
Likes: 482
From: Houston, Texas
And with a transfer layer, the rotor will appear as if it has a thin layer of black smoke on the surface. In other words, a slightly black dull matte appearance.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
What's funny about that is I always thought that dull appearance was due to inferior brake pads "melting" to the rotor. In a way I was right but I considered it a bad thing just a year ago. My current rotors really stand out. You don't have to be looking for it but even from a distance the rotors are way shiner than normal. Looks good but once these pads are gone I won't go this route again. Hopefully I have a rotor left.
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 44
Likes: 4
I use 1/4" ID clear tubing and it fits snugly over the nipples. I've never used 3/16" ID tubing as Inaccurate did. It must be very snug?
The curve in the tube keeps air from traveling back into the caliper. Air can travel back up the tube from the collection jar to the apex of the tube's arc, but cannot travel back down the other side of the arc into the caliper. The caliper side of the tube arc (about 5"-7") always retains fluid and no air.
The arc is more pronounced in the front calipers because the nipples are vertical (at least on the Brembo calipers, not sure about non-Brembos). It's less so (only about 2"-3") for the rear calipers where the nipples are not vertical. (Inaccurate's pictures are of the rear calipers. You can see the short arc that I'm referring to between the check valve and the nipple).
Does that make sense?
And if the tube is leaking at the nipple (which I don't believe as long as your tubing fits snugly over the nipple), then there's nothing a check valve can do to prevent that...
The curve in the tube keeps air from traveling back into the caliper. Air can travel back up the tube from the collection jar to the apex of the tube's arc, but cannot travel back down the other side of the arc into the caliper. The caliper side of the tube arc (about 5"-7") always retains fluid and no air.
The arc is more pronounced in the front calipers because the nipples are vertical (at least on the Brembo calipers, not sure about non-Brembos). It's less so (only about 2"-3") for the rear calipers where the nipples are not vertical. (Inaccurate's pictures are of the rear calipers. You can see the short arc that I'm referring to between the check valve and the nipple).
Does that make sense?
And if the tube is leaking at the nipple (which I don't believe as long as your tubing fits snugly over the nipple), then there's nothing a check valve can do to prevent that...
This is the way I looked at it. When the pedal is released the back pressure wants to suck back, and the fluid in the tube provides the least resistance so it sucks back a bit of fluid from the tube. If you make it difficult to suck back from the tube (check valve) then its going to search elsewhere for the path of less resistance which would make it more likely to suck through the threads and draw in air.
I went to change my brake fluid yesterday and I tried to only hook a tube up to the bleeder. I pressed the brake pedal down then when I released the pedal the fluid then started flowing back in to the caliper, but some fluid already made it to the catch can, therefore introducing air into the system. 
I had a vacuum bleeder that I had to resort to, but I don't think you can bleed the brakes with out two people or some type of check valve/pressurized system.
PS I do have the Brembo brakes so the tube had a nice high arc bend in it...
You just need to keep pumping until you have a steady stream of fluid, its not going to suck back the same amount as you push out and eventually the hose will be filled with fluid and no air. Plus you weren't too specific but did you have the other end of the hose submerged in fluid in your container so there was something to suck back besides air? If not then of course its going to suck back more air the first pump until the bottom of the hose is submerged.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 1,824
From: MAGA country
OK guys I must have misunderstood you or did something wrong... I went to change my brake fluid yesterday and I tried to only hook a tube up to the bleeder. I pressed the brake pedal down then when I released the pedal the fluid then started flowing back in to the caliper, but some fluid already made it to the catch can, therefore introducing air into the system.
I had a vacuum bleeder that I had to resort to, but I don't think you can bleed the brakes with out two people or some type of check valve/pressurized system.
PS I do have the Brembo brakes so the tube had a nice high arc bend in it...
I went to change my brake fluid yesterday and I tried to only hook a tube up to the bleeder. I pressed the brake pedal down then when I released the pedal the fluid then started flowing back in to the caliper, but some fluid already made it to the catch can, therefore introducing air into the system. I had a vacuum bleeder that I had to resort to, but I don't think you can bleed the brakes with out two people or some type of check valve/pressurized system.
PS I do have the Brembo brakes so the tube had a nice high arc bend in it...
If you're looking for a complete fluid exchange, the first (driver's side front, outside bleeder) will require the most pumps to expel all of the old fluid out of the reservoir (can't remember, but it's a lot, about 50 pumps?, refilling the reservoir after about each 15 pumps with new fluid).
After that (the reservoir now has all new fluid in it) each subsequent bleeder only took about 15 pumps or so for a full fluid exchange.
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 44
Likes: 4
Yup, I know that it would take more than just 1 pump... one thing that I did not do was has the line submerged in fluid... That may have been my mistake as to why I started to suck air back into the system...
Also I still like having my vacuum pump for sucking out as much fluid as possible from the reservoir, then top it off with fresh fluid so you are bleeding, this equates to less dirty fluid through the brake system.
In conclusion I think the next time around I'm going to spend a little money on a check valve and just pump the brakes because to me it seems as a pretty straight forward way and they're not that much but should be much easier than sucking the fluid through the system with my vacuum pump... (of course I will still suck as much fluid out the reservoir before pumping the brakes) but that's just my
But thanks for everyone input
On another note I just bought this car so I changed all the fluids on it yesterday. It has about 42000 and is a 2004. The reason I bring this up is because it looks like the previous owner may have done a partial drain and fill with the radiator (the coolant looked like the Honda blue coolant mixed with the green). Does anyone know if a 2004 came with the type II blue coolant or if at any point and time if the type II was ever green??? Thanks!
Also I still like having my vacuum pump for sucking out as much fluid as possible from the reservoir, then top it off with fresh fluid so you are bleeding, this equates to less dirty fluid through the brake system.
In conclusion I think the next time around I'm going to spend a little money on a check valve and just pump the brakes because to me it seems as a pretty straight forward way and they're not that much but should be much easier than sucking the fluid through the system with my vacuum pump... (of course I will still suck as much fluid out the reservoir before pumping the brakes) but that's just my
But thanks for everyone input On another note I just bought this car so I changed all the fluids on it yesterday. It has about 42000 and is a 2004. The reason I bring this up is because it looks like the previous owner may have done a partial drain and fill with the radiator (the coolant looked like the Honda blue coolant mixed with the green). Does anyone know if a 2004 came with the type II blue coolant or if at any point and time if the type II was ever green??? Thanks!
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
Yup, I know that it would take more than just 1 pump... one thing that I did not do was has the line submerged in fluid... That may have been my mistake as to why I started to suck air back into the system...
Also I still like having my vacuum pump for sucking out as much fluid as possible from the reservoir, then top it off with fresh fluid so you are bleeding, this equates to less dirty fluid through the brake system.
In conclusion I think the next time around I'm going to spend a little money on a check valve and just pump the brakes because to me it seems as a pretty straight forward way and they're not that much but should be much easier than sucking the fluid through the system with my vacuum pump... (of course I will still suck as much fluid out the reservoir before pumping the brakes) but that's just my But thanks for everyone input
On another note I just bought this car so I changed all the fluids on it yesterday. It has about 42000 and is a 2004. The reason I bring this up is because it looks like the previous owner may have done a partial drain and fill with the radiator (the coolant looked like the Honda blue coolant mixed with the green). Does anyone know if a 2004 came with the type II blue coolant or if at any point and time if the type II was ever green??? Thanks!
Also I still like having my vacuum pump for sucking out as much fluid as possible from the reservoir, then top it off with fresh fluid so you are bleeding, this equates to less dirty fluid through the brake system.
In conclusion I think the next time around I'm going to spend a little money on a check valve and just pump the brakes because to me it seems as a pretty straight forward way and they're not that much but should be much easier than sucking the fluid through the system with my vacuum pump... (of course I will still suck as much fluid out the reservoir before pumping the brakes) but that's just my
But thanks for everyone input On another note I just bought this car so I changed all the fluids on it yesterday. It has about 42000 and is a 2004. The reason I bring this up is because it looks like the previous owner may have done a partial drain and fill with the radiator (the coolant looked like the Honda blue coolant mixed with the green). Does anyone know if a 2004 came with the type II blue coolant or if at any point and time if the type II was ever green??? Thanks!
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 1,824
From: MAGA country
Type II was green until 2004 when they switched to blue. Your 2004 came with the blue type II. Mixing different types of AF CAN (but is not necessarily) be problematic. Personally, since you don't know what the mixture consists of, I'd have a dealer (or someone with a professional flush machine) do a total AF replacement with type II. It's good for 10 years/120K. There is a sticker on the underside of your hood with the specs.
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 44
Likes: 4
Type II was green until 2004 when they switched to blue. Your 2004 came with the blue type II. Mixing different types of AF CAN (but is not necessarily) be problematic. Personally, since you don't know what the mixture consists of, I'd have a dealer (or someone with a professional flush machine) do a total AF replacement with type II. It's good for 10 years/120K. There is a sticker on the underside of your hood with the specs.
) Also if you read this post you can see why, plus I did drain the block and radiator, therefore according to the service manual I got 80% of the fluid out (engine overhaul 8.3 qt vs. a change 6.7 qt). As for the service interval... the bottle said half of what you suggest 5 yr/60K. Since the coolant seemed like a mix I will probably change the fluid in a year or so...
Instructor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 107
Likes: 1
I did the brake fluid bleed on Saturday and followed it up with changing the front brake pads with the Hawk HPS pads.
The pad change was quick by comparison. I still had a soft feel to the brakes on Saturday so I bled the fronts again to see if it would make any difference. I saw no difference and now I'm ready to call a local shop to see if I can have it professionally flushed for less than $100.00. Before starting the engine the brakes will feel very firm, just the way I would expect them to feel with the power assist. But once the power assist is working they are soft down a little farther and feel spongy at full pressure.
When pulling out the old pads I noticed the wear on the right front and I was down to where the dealership said I was at about 1 mm. On the right front the pads looked like they had most of their pad left.
When I purchased the car it had a VSA message. I recently took the car into Ron Tonkin Acura in Beaverton, Oregon to have them do the B1 and B2 services done. I asked them to "repair" the VSA problem. I think the left front will lock up and not activate the VSA. At least, before doing the pad break in procedure. The left front pads did get hot enough to cook the resin so I know the left front caliper is working when stopping prior to the ABS kicking in. I'm just not sure why the VSA message was on (not on the dash but on the MFD).
The dealership said they couldn't find any problems with the VSA and reset the MFD.
What causes the brake pads to wear that unevenly Left from right?
The pad change was quick by comparison. I still had a soft feel to the brakes on Saturday so I bled the fronts again to see if it would make any difference. I saw no difference and now I'm ready to call a local shop to see if I can have it professionally flushed for less than $100.00. Before starting the engine the brakes will feel very firm, just the way I would expect them to feel with the power assist. But once the power assist is working they are soft down a little farther and feel spongy at full pressure.
When pulling out the old pads I noticed the wear on the right front and I was down to where the dealership said I was at about 1 mm. On the right front the pads looked like they had most of their pad left.
When I purchased the car it had a VSA message. I recently took the car into Ron Tonkin Acura in Beaverton, Oregon to have them do the B1 and B2 services done. I asked them to "repair" the VSA problem. I think the left front will lock up and not activate the VSA. At least, before doing the pad break in procedure. The left front pads did get hot enough to cook the resin so I know the left front caliper is working when stopping prior to the ABS kicking in. I'm just not sure why the VSA message was on (not on the dash but on the MFD).
The dealership said they couldn't find any problems with the VSA and reset the MFD.
What causes the brake pads to wear that unevenly Left from right?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 1,824
From: MAGA country
I did the brake fluid bleed on Saturday and followed it up with changing the front brake pads with the Hawk HPS pads.
The pad change was quick by comparison. I still had a soft feel to the brakes on Saturday so I bled the fronts again to see if it would make any difference. I saw no difference and now I'm ready to call a local shop to see if I can have it professionally flushed for less than $100.00. Before starting the engine the brakes will feel very firm, just the way I would expect them to feel with the power assist. But once the power assist is working they are soft down a little farther and feel spongy at full pressure.
When pulling out the old pads I noticed the wear on the right front and I was down to where the dealership said I was at about 1 mm. On the right front the pads looked like they had most of their pad left.
When I purchased the car it had a VSA message. I recently took the car into Ron Tonkin Acura in Beaverton, Oregon to have them do the B1 and B2 services done. I asked them to "repair" the VSA problem. I think the left front will lock up and not activate the VSA. At least, before doing the pad break in procedure. The left front pads did get hot enough to cook the resin so I know the left front caliper is working when stopping prior to the ABS kicking in. I'm just not sure why the VSA message was on (not on the dash but on the MFD).
The dealership said they couldn't find any problems with the VSA and reset the MFD.
What causes the brake pads to wear that unevenly Left from right?
The pad change was quick by comparison. I still had a soft feel to the brakes on Saturday so I bled the fronts again to see if it would make any difference. I saw no difference and now I'm ready to call a local shop to see if I can have it professionally flushed for less than $100.00. Before starting the engine the brakes will feel very firm, just the way I would expect them to feel with the power assist. But once the power assist is working they are soft down a little farther and feel spongy at full pressure.
When pulling out the old pads I noticed the wear on the right front and I was down to where the dealership said I was at about 1 mm. On the right front the pads looked like they had most of their pad left.
When I purchased the car it had a VSA message. I recently took the car into Ron Tonkin Acura in Beaverton, Oregon to have them do the B1 and B2 services done. I asked them to "repair" the VSA problem. I think the left front will lock up and not activate the VSA. At least, before doing the pad break in procedure. The left front pads did get hot enough to cook the resin so I know the left front caliper is working when stopping prior to the ABS kicking in. I'm just not sure why the VSA message was on (not on the dash but on the MFD).
The dealership said they couldn't find any problems with the VSA and reset the MFD.
What causes the brake pads to wear that unevenly Left from right?
2. I'm a little confused, but I think you mean the driver's side pads were worn evenly but more than the passenger side pads?
3. Do you remember what the VSA message was?
4. After you did the bleed/s did you do at least 2 slow speed activations of the ABS? (preferably a dirt road or snow covered road).
Last edited by nfnsquared; Jan 31, 2011 at 12:46 PM.
Instructor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 107
Likes: 1
Yes, I did the two slow ABS stops on a nearby gravel/dirt road and felt the abs activating.
The drivers front were barely worn, but even in wear between the inside pad and the outside pad. The passenger side was worn down to the 1 mm on both the inside and outside pads.
The brake feel was a little softer after the brake bleed. It doesn't give me that comfortable firm feel. I can press hard and hold pressure and the brakes do not fade, but I can still push a little harder and the peddle will go down farther. It just doesn't feel like it's as firm as before. But, I am being a lot more sensitive to the feel.
Peddle travel is about 1.5" in total with a hard press to a stop in travel.
No leaks that are obvious and the fluid level is still on the full mark.
Is there a left to right balance module along with the front to rear?
Can an adjustment be made to get more left front bias or get it back to even?
If there is a specific component that does this on the cars it may be the part that is out and the dealership didn't catch it.
I paid $115.00 for them to daignose the problem (I think was a VSA code 61).
The drivers front were barely worn, but even in wear between the inside pad and the outside pad. The passenger side was worn down to the 1 mm on both the inside and outside pads.
The brake feel was a little softer after the brake bleed. It doesn't give me that comfortable firm feel. I can press hard and hold pressure and the brakes do not fade, but I can still push a little harder and the peddle will go down farther. It just doesn't feel like it's as firm as before. But, I am being a lot more sensitive to the feel.
Peddle travel is about 1.5" in total with a hard press to a stop in travel.
No leaks that are obvious and the fluid level is still on the full mark.
Is there a left to right balance module along with the front to rear?
Can an adjustment be made to get more left front bias or get it back to even?
If there is a specific component that does this on the cars it may be the part that is out and the dealership didn't catch it.
I paid $115.00 for them to daignose the problem (I think was a VSA code 61).
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento
I am at the dealer now and they want like $129 to do this. The procedure above is easy enough to follow and I will be doing it when i actually get to 3 years, but need to at least look at the fluid when I am done here.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 591
Likes: 22
From: San Jose, CA
Guys, I'm planning on doing the BF change this weekend and would like to know if the bleed nipple is easy to find on the Type-S? I read something about bleeding the caliper and am wondering if I need to do that as well? Also, how necessary is it to remove the wheels?
Pro
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 591
Likes: 22
From: San Jose, CA
Please disregard my previous post...found the answers by advanced search. There is some conflicting information about which caliper to bleed first on the brembos. Most sites and I think the manual calls to bleed the inner first and then outer.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 1,824
From: MAGA country
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 1,824
From: MAGA country
10th Gear
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
So I am taking my car in Thursday to get the brake fluid flushed. Does it matter what type of Dot 3 fluid is used? I know Honda says use their fluid or else your car will blow up. But I wonder if it matters as long it is Dot 3?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 1,824
From: MAGA country
For brake fluid, any DOT 3/4 is fine. I use whatever is on sale (last time it was O'reilly's).
the overexplainer
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,287
Likes: 385
From: OC, CA
If your fluid is also particularly old/dark it may take more than 2 bottles to get it completely clean.
I used 2 small bottles and achieved an amber color rather than the near clear color of new fluid.
I used 2 small bottles and achieved an amber color rather than the near clear color of new fluid.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 591
Likes: 22
From: San Jose, CA
. I guess I'll be using 3 to start and then have two bottles for the next two years. BTW, I checked on the shelf life of BF and as long as the bottle is sealed, you can store it for at least a couple of years.
what would you guys recommend for brake fluid for someone who lives to brake hard occasionally? for type s brembos. is the oem fluid really sufficient? and is the motul 5.1 really overkill?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 1,824
From: MAGA country
Overkill for your situation. SS brakes lines would be $$$ better spent than Motul 5.1 IMHO.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
Any DOT fluid except for DOT 5 will work. With price being close between all of them, get the fluid with the higher boiling point.
Cruisin'
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
I haven't seen anybody mention this, but for installing brake lines on my motorcycle it was recommended to use only new bottles of brake fluid - NOT previously opened ones. Using open bottles increases the risk of moisture finding its way into the fluid. Do most of you follow that as well when flushing out the brake fluid for our vehicles?
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,785
Likes: 96
I haven't seen anybody mention this, but for installing brake lines on my motorcycle it was recommended to use only new bottles of brake fluid - NOT previously opened ones. Using open bottles increases the risk of moisture finding its way into the fluid. Do most of you follow that as well when flushing out the brake fluid for our vehicles?
If our master cylinder wasn't sealed, wouldn't a plastic bottle be the same thing?
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
I haven't seen anybody mention this, but for installing brake lines on my motorcycle it was recommended to use only new bottles of brake fluid - NOT previously opened ones. Using open bottles increases the risk of moisture finding its way into the fluid. Do most of you follow that as well when flushing out the brake fluid for our vehicles?
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
Pretty much but you're starting the process once you open the bottle so if you use half of the bottle to flush your brakes and then the other half a year later to flush again, they're going to be somewhat similar. Brake fluid in the car will get moisture in it a little quicker than the bottle due to rubber lines and possibly heat but if I were guessing I would say they're pretty similar in time.
7th Gear
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
recommended maintenance '07 mdx
Okay, always had the car in to shop for maintenance. I have 70K on my MDX and never had brake fluid changed. Shop recommends brake flush, coolant service and something called front and rear differential (i know what the differential is, not sure what they want to do to it). Question is: which of these services do I really need? I assume I have to get the brakes done due to this thread. How about the others? And, before you ask, I have no idea what color any of the fluids are, but as we live in the deep south I'm not overly concerned about coolant. Please advise, I have to make another service appt. and want to get these taken care of if I need to. Thanks!!!
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,785
Likes: 96
Pretty much but you're starting the process once you open the bottle so if you use half of the bottle to flush your brakes and then the other half a year later to flush again, they're going to be somewhat similar. Brake fluid in the car will get moisture in it a little quicker than the bottle due to rubber lines and possibly heat but if I were guessing I would say they're pretty similar in time.
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 88,888
Likes: 11,846
From: Waffles, BU
Okay, always had the car in to shop for maintenance. I have 70K on my MDX and never had brake fluid changed. Shop recommends brake flush, coolant service and something called front and rear differential (i know what the differential is, not sure what they want to do to it). Question is: which of these services do I really need? I assume I have to get the brakes done due to this thread. How about the others? And, before you ask, I have no idea what color any of the fluids are, but as we live in the deep south I'm not overly concerned about coolant. Please advise, I have to make another service appt. and want to get these taken care of if I need to. Thanks!!!