I just completed the tranny switch replacement a few days ago and here's my report.

2005 TL

3rd gear switch: 28610-RAY-003
4th gear switch: 28600-RAY-003

I've got almost 72,000 miles on my car and I've been having a shudder issue on upshift to 3rd and 4th since somewhere in the 40's. Before the oem warranty ran out I bought it in and my dealer said nothing was wrong/unable to detect. After the warranty expired I bought it in again for the same issue, they diagnosed it as the 1500 rpm driveline vibration and tightened bolts on some heat shield (something like that), again they saw nothing wrong with the tranny.

My problem was a shudder mostly on upshift to 3rd gear and it also happened on 4th gear. It didn't happen every time, and when it did it was during slow (around town) acceleration. When I felt it, I would let up on the gas and then it would complete the shift.

After replacement the shudder is gone. It's a firm/hard shift, but it's not slamming into gear / doesn't have me worried. I'd rather have the firm shift then a sloppy shudder. Maybe I've got some clutch pack damage since been happening for about 2 years, but I'm not worried right now as it's a huge improvement.

I've done a single drain and refill of the ATF 3 times, off the top of my head I can't remember when though, other then the last one was 1000 miles ago. Never replaced the tranny filter as I didn't know about it until reading about the 3rd/4th switch replacement.

I wish I did this earlier but I stopped frequenting the 3g forum before the original posts on the matter showed up.

 

hey I went to a dealer in Alhambra, CA, and they are charging $55 for the two sensors?? they wont price match will they?

 

Same happened at my dealer and they wouldn't price match so I order from Delray (acuraoemparts.com)

 

I have sorta the same problem with my 08 TLS 5AT, it's at 57km right now. I'm going to do an ATF change soon to Redline instead of Z1. My problem is rough downshifts from 3>2 and 2>1, but all upshifts are smooth. I can understand the 2>1 being rough since it's not good shifting into first manually anyways, but 3>2 is more jerky than my old 99 2G TL. Which sensors should I be changing to solve this problem? Is it still the 3rd gear or the 2nd gear sensor?

 

$55 for both is a good deal, $55 each is not.. go to delray acura / acuraoemparts or contact prestige acura (vendor here) to get the pressure switches.

 

Doesn't sound related. Definitely do a 3x3 and put new ATF in the case.

 

kool thanks majofo

 

Great write up...I will be doing this next time I change my Tranny fluid, which will be in the next two weeks.....

 

Hi guys: I have an 07 TL with 54k and just did a 1x drain a refill. The upshifts are smoother and stronger however downshift from 3rd to 2nd and 2nd to 1st gear seems a liitle sluggish/rough. Is this a snesor issue or should I just drain and refill 3x3 to correct??? Please help advice is appreciated!

 

Has anyone tried this for an 07 tl and what was the result? What are the part numbers for an 07 tl if anyone has done this for an 07?

 

Sensors make a HUGE difference on the downshifts, more than the upshifts. I was almost afraid to use the manual mode because mine were so harsh. Now they're fine.

 

Great write up. I'm tackling this project next week.

 

I would really appreciate it if someone has a DIY with pics for the 2007 type S, I had a difficult time trying to locate these on sat. they seem to be in a less than accessible place than the 04-05..

 

attempting my 3rd & 4th gear pressure this weekend at 106K, it's been running good so far.

 

x2

 

You can do this without a jack! Turn the wheels to the left lock, and get ready for some painful contortions. Here are my notes about the procedure and my unconventional methods.

The shroud, which covers the 3rd Gear Switch, was annoying. After you un-bolt it and disconnect it from the connector (above), it will not yet 'swing' out of the way. I detatched 3 of the 4 wire clips located on this shroud in order to advance it towards me, along the wire, and then out of the way, allowing room for Mr. Wrench. In sixsixfour's fourth picture you can clearly see these 'wire clips', which look like macaroni but open like clamshells: look for the clips opposite the hinges and use a flat-head.

When unplugging the ATF temp wire, you will also remove it from a metal bracket. The bottom half clips on to a metal bracket, and the top one is only connected to this bottom one (and not to the bracket.)

The third sensor location drips more than fourth. Neither location drips quickly enough to cause a panic. Just have the replacement sensors nearby and 100% ready. I lost maybe a tablespoon or two of fluid; might have been more if the tranny were hot.

Paper towels to control the mess. Because I had no brake cleaner on hand, I just wrapped the areas under the switches with paper towels and caught all the drippage. Used a little rubbing alcohol to remove the small amounts which rolled right under the holes.

How tight is too tight? These guys come off without much elbow grease. The service manual said to tighten to 14 ft-lbs. Without a torque wrench, I had to guess at the right tightness, and hope not to deform anything. There's not really a stopping torque, at least not within the range of pressure I applied.

Reset ECU? I did not, and the service manual makes no mention of this. Just wanted to be sure of the effects of the sensors alone, not sensors + reset, on shifting patterns. But it may be a good idea, because when the car comes out of surgery, the ECU will have different data to crunch, since we've seen that these new switches trip at different pressures (as spec'd). What do you guys think?

When finished, drive briefly, and then come check for leaks, just to be sure. Then go have some real fun.

I am not defending the way I did this. It's very likely that a lot of what was challenging to me about this DIY (stupid shroud macaroni clips) was because I did not lift the car, or at least use jackstands & remove tire. It took around an hour (of twisting, pulling, and a face-full of tire) to do this and I'm sure there are easier ways, as the OP so graciously described.

DRIVING IMPRESSIONS
Car: 2006 TL 5AT w/ 98k miles. Purchased used @ 76k.
Why I did the DIY: Did not have any specific complaints, but wanted the car to last.

Shifts from 3>4 and 4>5 are quicker and less noticeable than before. They happen a little bit earlier in the 1st to 5th sequence as well. Downshifts quicker.

During heavy (have yet to try WOT) acceleration, the above shifts are totally snappy, where there used to be a lag between these gears. The tach needle now zips into place after these shifts very quickly.

There used to be two bumps when shifting on these gears: for example, a nudge at the top of third, then a lag, then another nudge at the bottom of fourth. This is just gone.

This is, IMO, an enthusiast's diy, because I really don't think most people would notice most of these things. Most people don't spend their commutes thinking "oh, how much better could that shift have been? Did that just hurt my tranny?" But if you, like me, obsess over questions like that, then by all means do this mod. Thanks AZINE!

 

Thanks asbestos, my reasoning for changing at fluid to redline would be to extend the life of the AT. My car's shifts are pretty decent with the Z1 but I'm scared to death that this honda crappy fluid will make my AT fail before it's due time. What do you think?

 

The effects of a non FM fluid like the racing fluid on clutch wear are well documented. It can literally double the life of the trans. If I had known this fluid would not cause harsh shifts and shudder I would seriously have swapped it out when the car was brand new. Luckily I swapped the Z1 out at 20,000 miles with a Dex III equivalent so it wasn't a non FM formula but it did have less FM than Z1.

 

Thanks for the advice IHC, I've been following these threads now for weeks and I think I'm sold on Redline non FM but should I use light or regular Redline?

 

I wouldn't put a whole lot of thought into it, you will be fine with straight racing or a mix of the lightweight. In NY, it's not a bad idea to do one of the drain and fills with the lightweight. I'm probably going to do one with it as well when I get the time.

 

So has anyone done the sensors on an 07 or 08 yet?

 

I ordered mine last night thanks to this thread

 

I have a quick question- I have an 06 TL and I just bought the 2 pressure switches for 3rd and 4th gear (my car shifts fine and I want to keep it that way). Since this is an issue with the 3G TL and the 2G TL's have had many transmission issues, do you think the pressure switches in the 2G TL could be faulty as well causing transmission failure? I know they have been known to have faulty 3rd gear clutch packs which is thought to be the source of most failures.

My brother has my old TL (2000 MY) and it runs fine, but just to prevent trans meltdown later, do you think replacing these switches would be of any benefit?

Thanks

 

wow..just recently finished a 3x3 with Redline and the 3rd/4th switches and I've noticed such a big difference, just wanna say thanks to sixsixfour and majofo for the DIY and clarification on part #.

 

I had my switches installed today- I don't notice any difference, but my car was running fine before the switch change (I didn't expect a difference). At least it's peace of mind knowing they were changed.

 

Just ordered my switches today- will be tackling this and the tranny fluid change next weekend.

 

Just did a '99 for a lawyer friend. It was so terrible I told him it had a very small chance of working. 2-3 and 3-4 took about 2 seconds to make the gear change. RPMS would flare by 1,500rpm during the shift. I did a 2x3 of Type F fluid and the switches. AMAZINGLY it shifts like a new car. I could not believe it fixed this thing because it was practically undrivable.

One important thing..... After the 2x3 you should shift it 2-3, 3-4 and back down again over and over manually. After 5 minutes of this, shift quality had greatly improved. I believe this is because it's getting the FM out of the clutch face and the non FM fluid into the clutches. After I worked the fluid in well, I did another 1x3 and over the past 3 days it has gotten even better.

I would honestly say the trans shifts better (quicker) than new.

 

IHC,
Thanks for the response- I forwarded this link to my brother (I think he bought the switches already).

 

IHC, do you have the part #'s handy for the 99 TL pressure switches.

My tranny has similar problems and i recently switched to type F fluid and it has gotten somewhat better. will be doin another 1x3 soon and plan to do the switches also. Thanks

 

28600-RAY-003
28610-RAY-003

Both are $58.98 list.

I have no idea which is 3rd and which is 4th. I guessed and got lucky. 28610 goes closest to the wheel and 28600 is slightly more inboard.

 

Gotcha

 

Sorry, I had the wrong paper in front of me, those were mine from my '06.

'99 uses the same switch for both 3rd and 4th.

28600-P7Z-003. List is 62.68. Available at Delray for $47.07 each.

 

I got my switches in Today. Its really cold outside but I am going to try and do this.

I have about 47,000 miles on my car. I hope I can notice some diff, but I am doing this so i dont have trouble down the road. I am still using D4 ATF Fluid. Still waiting to do the racing ATF. Since its so cold where I am at, waiting for a warmer day for the drain and fill.

Anyone in Connecticut have an 07 TL have you done your 3rd and 4th Press Switches? Please leave feedback if it had made any diff.
I read all the post in the thread and no one had done this on there 07 or 08 TL yet. So lets see what happens.

 

I didnt end up doing it. It was wicked cold. I am gonna wait for a warmer day. Get Back To you guys then.

 

Until Then if someone does replaces it for 07 and 08 TL please leave your feedback. If it was hard or easy to replace. Plus did it make any difference after replace.

 

I can't remember if it was on here or another board but I do remember some people replacing the swtiches on the later trans with good results.

 

I can get these switches for $39 each shipped.

 

I did this on my TL, it was easy but i didnt really notice that much of a change, i did the filter and 1x3 with new Z1. I put the car in storage maybe a month later so this spring i am doing a Redline 3x3 and hopefully ill notice a difference. When i picked the parts up from a local dealer a service tech asked what i was doing, he said he didnt even know you could do this or that there was a filter in the trans... Enough said!

 

My 07 TL-S has 103K.The tranny is OK but really I don't know what transmission fluid has in it. What fluid guys can recommend me for a tranny with high mileage?

 

I recommend checking out the "Racing ATF" thread and going with the Redline Racing (or similar non-FM) fluid recommendation being made over in that thread. Browse through that thread and you'll get plenty of information on why.