Not only are you cutting weight, but that trunk becomes Huge with all of that trim removed and spare tire removed.

 

^^ true function>form!!!

 

wow, Amazing stuff....if only I had a wife as lenient as you I'd be all over this Diet....reminds me when I had my Integra fully gutted....Great work InAccurate!!!


p.s. although I might steal a few ideas here and there that wife won't notice......

 

Too bad he'll never take the car to the strip. I think his car with do 13.7-13.9. I don't buy the 4.6 0-60.

 

^^ idk bud he has videos to prove it, and it looks real legit thereofore it must be legit. plus i don't think innaccurate with his age and wisdom would feel the need to lie about his 0-60 to aziner like myself. just my 2 cents

 

Maybe you have already touched on the subject and I just missed it but if you're willing to give up ABS, I suspect that ABS motor would net some lbs.

 

Personally I think that's a great idea but I know the TL uses an electronic proportioning valve so it may throw the braking balance out of whack. Any time I take it to the "track" we have nearby I pull the fuse for the ABS because I can stop harder without it.

 

Are you sure about that? I thought the same at first but then I found what appears to be a proportioning valve just below and forward of the brake booster. It is for the lines running to the rear.

 

I'll have to check it out. I hope you're right.

 

The 0-60 time was recorded using the speedometer as the 60mph reference. It's not very scientific especially when you factor in speedometer errors.

He really should take the car to the strip instead of racing it on the street and using street races and videos of speedometers as proof of the car's acceleration. There's no doubt the car is significantly quicker than a similiarly modded 5AT factory weight TL. His car most likely makes around 230whp/205wtq and the car currently weighs ~2900lbs without him. My 96 5MT Maxima weighed 2915lbs and made 210whp/200wtq. The Maxima consistently went 14.3s@100mph. I would assume his TL with it's better power to weight (12.6 vs 13.8) should see lower 14s, maybe upper 13s (Houston has a fast track). The one thing the car has working against it is the high geared 5AT. It will impact acceleration. Lots of people act like this 2,900lb TL is going to run low 13s or even 12s. He's removed 600lbs. For a typical street car (3,000-4,000lbs), every 100lbs you shave will equate to about 0.12 seconds and 0.7mph. A modded factory weight 5AT TL like his will typically run 14.7-14.9@95-96mph. Remove 600lbs, do the math, and you're looking at 14.0-14.2@99-100mph.

His car has a 12.6:1 power to weight ratio and is front wheel drive so stellar sub 2.1 60 foots aren't going to happen. Here are similiar cars in that range using known RWHP numbers (not SAE):

Dodge Charger R/T low 14s/high 13s
G8 GT low 14s/high 13s

 

i thought you were on my ignore list

 

Unsure if anyone has mentioned it, but there is also another dampener under the car. It is hidding under the plastic cover that you need to push aside to do your ATF change. I noticed it today, saw that it was just a useless peice of weight and removed it and it's 2 bolts. Between that and the front bumber one, it's a lot of weight I just removed. I'm also riding w/o a spare or tools. If I ever get stuck I'll just call my friendly guys at AAA to tow me If I end up going on a long drive like a vacation or something, I'll carry my spare / tools w/ me.

 

And Innacurate.. unsure which year and model TL you have, but I removed my fabric from my trunk door and there wasn't a dampner in there. I have a Type S 2007

 

This might be a stupid question, but i will ask it anyway. I have my rear seat and rear seat belts removed from my cl. Is it ok just leaving the bolts out or should i put some back in for structural support. I was assuming the sheet metal is welded together and dsnt need the bolts but if it would help i will put them back in.

 

You can leave them out. They have no structural purpose other than anchoring the seats. You can put them back so you don't lose them but I wouldn't worry about the structural integrity.

 

I agree with Majofo. Just make sure that you do not remove these braces or their bolts in the red circles. These braces are for structural support.

BTW - Welcome to the TL Diet club.... uuuhm, the CL Diet Club

 

Like many have said this is just incredible. I have already starting reducing weight in my vehicle and love it!

inAccurate, have you had an opportunity yet to take your car to a weigh station and/or to the track? I read through this entire thread (skimmed a bunch) and didn't see that you had.

 

Never went to the scales to get it weighed.
Never took it to the track either.

I just got a performance meter although, Auterra DashDyno (click here). I will soon be getting some performance numbers from the DashDyno (0-60 mph, 1/8 mile, 1/4 mile, calculated HP output).

You can check this linked thread too for what you feel that it is worth.

The TL Diet Videos (click here)


Glad to hear that your loving the nimble feel.

Happy Dieting

 

The 0-60 video is amazing.

I understand not going to the track, but with the countless hours you have put into making it light... how are you not insanely curious how much the thing actually weighs?

Also, does curb weight in the US include a fixed weight of a driver?

 

I belive curb weight in the US is a car with all fluids, half a tank of gas, but as far as I know driver weight is not factored in. My friend and Porsche fanatic swears his cars' curb weights are with a 150lb driver factored in. I've personally never looked into it.

 

Very good adivce. I PAID $250 to have those braces fabbed up for torsional rigidity in my other car. If you think the TL has squeeks and rattles now, just take those braces out lol.

 

There is surprisingly little info on the subject of curb weight. I found from two sources that it includes a full tank of gas. One source listed a drivers weight as not factored in. No sources listed as it being factored in so i assume at this point it is not.

 

I don't see engineers (car manufactures) including driver weight in the curb weight. Driver weight is a huge variable. Engineers would not have a specification with such a variable.

For example -

Japanese Curb Weight = 3100 Lbs (with the typical 100 lb driver)
American Curb Weight = 3250 Lbs (with the typical 250 lb driver)

Ok, the 250 lb. American was a slight exaggeration... maybe

From "U.S. Department of Transportation" (Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration) - Curb weight. The weight of a motor vehicle with standard equipment, maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant; and, if so equipped, air conditioning and additional weight of optional engine. Curb weight does not include the driver.

From "NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION" - "Curb weight" means the weight of a motor vehicle with standard equipment including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and coolant, and, if so equipped, air conditioning and additional weight optional engine.

From Edmunds - "Curb weight" is the weight of the vehicle with all equipment and all vital fluids, including a full tank of fuel.

 

Thanks for this great info. The reason i thougth driver weight would be included, is because of this source from wikipedia.

"This definition may differ from definitions used by governmental regulatory agencies or other organizations, for example, many European Union manufacturers include the weight of a 75 kilogram driver to follow European Directive 95/48/EC.[3] Additionally, organizations may define curb weight with fixed levels of fuel and other variables to equalize the value for the comparison of different vehicles."

 

Interesting info. I was wrong. Seems like some would include driver weight.... at least they standardized on a set weight for the driver. Thanks for the info.

 

rofllllllllllllllllllllllllll...now thats funny

 

since i have taken pieces off the rear and the trunk area, the back of the car is getting higher. doesn't look as low! that sucks!

 

im thinking taking weight off the front would help more. making the rear lighter really fucks with the already sharty weight distribution

 

The 150 lbs per passenger is factored into the GVWR not the curb weight. The curb weight should be all fluids and full fuel load factoring 6 lbs per gallon on the fuel.

 

Weight distribution was discussed back on Page 8 (Sept 2007).

Below was my reply back in 2007, and I still feel the same way about weight distribution. I have hot-footed around many corners and turns, and I am able to say that my car slides with equal yaw. That is, when the car slides under neutral load (neither braking nor accelerating), neither the front-end nor the rear-end slide any more or less than the other end.

Now the quote from Sept 2007 -

how have your changes effected the weight distribution?

I would say that a vast majority of the reduction is from the rear half of the car. I don't have any concerns or worries regarding the weight distribution. If the car by chance becomes more evenly distributed, then thats ok. If weight is biased to the front, I think this would assist with starting-line traction in a drag race. Just as long as the weight does Not become rear biases, then I am cool with however the distribution becomes. The most important thing [to improving handling] by a huge margin is to just get the weight off. Distribution is just an afterthought.

 

true in every sense. i was just thinking that keeping the ratio as close to factory would help more with the oversteer/understeer situations.

 

u r one crazy dude lol... holy shit is all i can say!

 

My turbo diet has yielded some nice weight reduction from the front of the car.
I took the 75-100 lbs supercharger and battery out of the engine compartment and added 45 lbs of turbo, intercooler and piping. I pull into the garage and the ball hanging from the ceiling I use to park, is now rubbing on the hood. The car is 1/4-1/2 taller. I'm still running stock suspension for the ride.

 

Innacurate, do you ever cut yourself with all that sheet metal exposed?

Also, when are you going to cut holes in your bumper the the CRX's?

 

Well, there was this one mishap....... But, it was easily refastened. "Pics, are it didn't happen"

 

Thanks Inaccurate!!!!!!
I picked and chose the items I wanted to come off to reduce weight and be a little more agile. I can definitely say that the car feels a whole lot different, and I enjoy my car 10x MOAR!!!!

 

---------
--------
-------
I would gut the interior as well the Peanut butter color panels GOTTA GOooooo. gut it to the sheet metal just like the trunk.

 

--------
-------
------

What Turbo did you install, Where did you purchase it?


What is your TRACK times?

have you been to the track when it was stock?

wondering what the 6spd manual runs?


Thanks

 

Innacurate...When is the Lexan going in? I was looking at the TL race car and it had Lexan front and rear Lexan windows. Also the rear door window were lexan. It looked like the front door windows were taken out completely and were replaced with nets.

Also if you did that then you could take out your A/C compressor, dryer, and condensor. You would just need a pulley to replace the compressor pulley. I'm sure someone has a HB pulley they're not gonna use on their supercharger. You would just have to fab up bracket for it.

I bet all together you could shed 50-60 lbs.

 

^hot as hell in Houston.
its still a daily driver, I suspect he still wants to be able to escape from the heat.