FINALLY found the parts on autopartswarehouse.com for my transmission flush job - but they're not OEM. Are the parts in the screenshot correct? Oil filter?

 

Use the promo code "BESTOFMARCH" to get $4 off.

Looks like everything to me.

 

Awesome, thanks! The coupon works, and I'll order soon.

 

Also don't "flush" DRAIN & FILL!

Drain all of the fluid out before you remove anything.

 

Right, that's what I meant when I quoted 'flush' in the thread title..

 

flush is a no-no.

GL with the drain/fill.

 

Have you been getting that kick from 1st to 2nd as far as the reasoning for the drain and fill and new screen?

It just started happening to me again today. I am thinking I might also do it. Let me know how yours goes (if it fixes the kick).

Thanks alot man!

 

Yes, my tranny is generally jerky - especially from 1st to 2nd as you mentioned. I'm really not too afraid to spend $100 in parts compared to $1500(??) for a new tranny if it goes out.

I'll order the exact parts above soon (very busy w/work, etc).

 

i wouldnt use those parts. go to acuraoemparts.com and go with OEM products....u wont regret it. nothing at all should go into ur tranny except for ATF-Z1.

 

That is ATF-Z1.. acuraoemparts.com doesn't have the parts - already looked there..

 

Honda tranny fluid is preferred over the Acura fluid (even though it is the same thing) and over ANY other tranny fluid that is available for use in our cars.

 

Is the above ATF-Z1 liquid NOT Honda? Why would they mis-brand it?

 

This is what the bottle looks like...

 

Yup, that's what they're selling:

 

You'll be good then.

 

Awesome! Will order the parts soon..

 

I use Acura ATF Z1, same sheet, different bottle! Cheaper, too, in my case.

 

Just ordered the parts, will probably do the job next week or so.

PS - did seafoam on my pvc, brake booster, and gas tank. Also cleaned the IACV. Boy - was it dirty! Probably never cleaned EVER.

 

Did you feel a difference after the seafoam?

 

Yes...it's more responsive. When I de-accelerate, it doesn't downshift hard - I think this was from cleaning out the IACV so it's actually getting the gas it needs. But the seafoam smoke was ridiculous! Quarter mile of gray cloud! lol

 

Classic!

 

Finally! I did it!

Got the parts on Tuesday and Thursday (I think autopartswarehouse.com partners with other dealers and part suppliers...so my parts came from very close to where I live and all the way from California) - and I decided to do it today.

I laugh out loud because it took me nearly 5 hours (this included an oil change, too). Of course, I have never done a transmission drain and fill or even an oil change...but I'm glad I did it because the results are GREAT! Part of the reason it too my so long was because I had to go buy the engine oil and jack stands.

Before:

• Jerky shifting from 1st to 2nd gear
• Even more jerky shifting (delayed) from 2nd to 3rd
• Jerky from Park to Drive or Drive to Reverse, etc.
• High RPM's @ 60mph (~3000rpm)
• Slightly louder than after (possibly an illusion??)
• Oil leak from filter causing a stinky/smelly heater (I'm pretty sure that was the issue) (thread)

After:

• Smoother shifting in all gears (not like 'brand new', but certainly a HUGE difference...the car has 199,907 miles on it)
• Smoother while shifting in stopped position (P>D, D>R, etc)
• More normal(?) RPM's @ 60mph (~2500rpm)
• Quieter (even with the loud exhaust)
• No more stinky heater

I expect better gas mileage after this since the engine is not working as hard for some reason. The tank before last I got ~22 MPG. That included a mix of Regular and Premium gas, seafoam job, city driving, stop-and-go freeway driving, and country driving. This last tank I got 23.8 MPG using only Premium gas, and about the same amount of city, freeway, and country driving.

Question: Why would the RPM's be high when I'm stopped in Park or Neutral, then when I shift to Drive or Reverse, the RPM's drop and cause a 'jerk'? Do I need to adjust my IACV? Or throttle?

Thanks again for the replies!! I will likely do this again @ 250,000 miles!

 

Clean the IACV and see if that changes anything. It helped me.

 

Oh I did clean it - took the whole thingamajig out and cleaned it with brake parts cleaner! Even took out the allen wrench thing with the spring and cleaned that part out. It seems more responsive, but:

• the idle seems high while stopped
• and it doesn't downshift right when slowing down (like it's still trying to go when I let off the gas, then lurches forward when it finally downshifts)
• and shifting from drive to reverse (as mentioned above) is a little harsh

Ideas?

 

^ Idle RPM should be high when the car is not fully warmed up, but should drop when it reaches normal operating temperature. I have noticed that the RPM on our TLs require longer time to lower during its first start up in the morning. As for your 'jerk' while shifting, it could be your mounts.

 

Mounts? Motor mounts? Honestly, what and where are those? (Noooooob)

 

It might be your engine/transmission mounts from what you are describing, but it could perfectly be normal since your idle might be too high causing the 'jerking' motion. Just something to keep in mind in case you want to get them checked out.

Oh and here is a diagram of the mounts:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal

 

What about the mounts though? What happens to them?

 

Just like anything else, they break and wear out.

 

huh. I'll check those.