Roger on the hand rails. Getting in/out of the car with the racing seats does require a special technique. Instead of the upper hand grips, I enter the car by resting my butt on the outer ridge of the seat and then place my hands on the respective sides of the seat. I use my arm triceps to raise up my body up. Then while supporting my entire body with my arm triceps, I position my butt over the seat center, then lower myself into the seat.

To get out, do the same thing. Grab the sides of the seat, then do a tricep extension. Good daily exercise.

Thanks for the dash delete idea. I will do some Google'ing.




Oh yes, I am often tempted. I have come very close to installing (and might still do it) a direct-port nitrous system (50 shot). I would do NOS Foggers into each intake runner. Use 100% methanol injection as the supplementary fuel to increase the overall octane rating and prevent detonation while spraying. Just afraid of blowing a head gasket or the trans.

As I have gotten older, I have learned many lessons. One lesson that I do not care to learn over again is that greed will bite you in the ass every time. I think that is probably the real reason that is holding me back. I have the light weight and to ask for more would be greedy.

 

intereasting but not sure if im willing to remove parts from my car....

 

Why not remove that sun-visor, and instead keep a pair of sunglasses where center dash compartment was.

 

HQTL6SPD,

By the way, I did remove that metal plate from the steering column. Thanks for that tip. I would have never known that the plate was there if you didn't tell me. Thanks

I did remove the passenger-side sunvisor. I kept the driver-side sunvisor. I use it often daily to block the view of my rearview mirror. When someone decides to tailgate me, the visor comes down so that I don't have to see them back there. Out of sight, out of mind.

Also, I need the visor at night to block bright headlights in the rearview mirror. I removed the wiring harness that operates the auto-dim feature in the oem rearview mirror.

 

Just wanted to mention something for your safety, and I'm no expert on this but I am going by the guy who sits next to me at work who is FAR more knowledgable about this than I am and who regularly tracks his car.

Those racing harness's that you have should be anchored higher up. If you sit in the seat and drew a horizontal line across your shoulder from the front to the back of the car, you have a 15 degree window up and down from that point where you want to mount the harness. More than that, and you risk serious spine compression injuries if you get into an accident.

If anyone who knows more about this type of stuff wants to step in, please do so.

 

^ mglax13,

Thanks for your concern in this matter. This has been discussed already in the the supplementary thread (click here).

To further discuss the safety aspects of the racing seats and racing harness, I respectfully ask that we use the supplementary thread (click here) to prevent this main thread from going too far off topic. Thanks for your cooperation.

 

you beat me to it!.. lol.

Inacc you should check out different anti-glare tints / film for you rearview mirror..

I too get really annoyed when a big Texas truck is on my bumper..

 

inaccurate u really are a inspiration man!!! i love the gutted "terminator" look!! im gonna follow ur same footsteps man. my only question is what did u do about the window controls on the door panels? did u put them on bare door, if so can u post pictures up? thanks bud

 

Yes. I removed the control unit from the panels and zip-tied the unit to the bare doors. Nothing fancy, just utilitarian/functional. I will post some pics for you tomorrow.

 

^^awesome man!!!

 

In the pic below, you can see the zip ties which hold the control unit in place. Wherever you mount the unit, you must be sure that it is not in the way of the window as the window is lowered.







In the pic below, this is the door opener with functional door lock switch.







In the pic below, please note that you will need to trim the oem mounting tabs. I have not removed mine on the driver door yet. I was giving myself a few weeks to make sure that I don't want the panel any longer before I commit.






In the pic below, this shows the overall door.







In the pic below, this shows the panel after the pieces have been removed. It is fairly easy to remove the control unit and door opener. There are many, many screws in the back of the panel. Just keep removing screws until the pieces become free.






For anyone needing help to duplicate a step of the TL Diet, please feel free to post or send me a PM.

 

I thought about removing door panels also, but I'm too worried about rain shorting out some wires.


What is everyones thoughts about a possible shorting out of the wires?

 

want to sell me your door panels? heheh

 

I have been thru a heavy downpour since removing the panels. Little to no water enters the interior of the front door skeleton. In fact, my switches (and probably yours too) have received water on many occasions with the oem configuration every time we open the door while it is raining. Whereas with the switches being inside the door skeleton, the switches will probably see less water than oem.


Too much of a hassle to find a box that size. I would be more willing to sell much more of my stuff if it wasn't so bulky and hard to package. Small, easy to package stuff, I am willing to sell. Send me a PM if you want to further discuss

 

I'd be curious to try out my butt dynometer in your car. I'm sure it moves.

3 hour trip with no tunes...you wife loves you! I wonder if you knew how in depth you eventually were going to get with this if you would have swapped to a 6MT TL earlier on. There's some weight reduction there, no?

 

yup the 6speed manual tranny is about 200 lbs lighter than the 5 Auto. i know cause i swapped my 5AT to a 2005 TL 6-speed. i love it

 

inacc: have you removed the engine hoist points from the engine? some weight savings there. also, the VSA throttle body can be removed and the engine harness brass clips on the tranny

 

found a 9-10 oz counter weight in the steering wheel behind the airbag. not necesarry for anything

 

ive seen this thread here for a while and never clicked on it ive only read this last page and by only seeing the pic of one of the doors all i have to say is "inaccurate your CRAZY" and not necisarily in a bad way im truly amazed at what youve done i can only imagine what the whole car looks like; i just wouldnt expect it on a TL!!! But i say keep it up untill it looks like your avatar pic why not!?!?...LOL WOW...

 

i only have a couple of questions if you dont mind answering them; whats your current weight loss; whats your new/old 0~60; and is this your daily driver do you have an oyher car? you probably get this alot but im curious! thanx...

 

sorry im not trying to be mean but just check a couple pages back he has posts that indicate how much weight loss he has. and his new 0-60 from another thread he has of this project is indicated as 4.6 seconds, which is better than the stock 6.0-6.2. and as for dd? im not sure

 

(Correct me if im wrong) the engine bay is nearly stock. So with a few more bolt ons, this car could shave even more time 0-60

 

CAI, PCD, jpipe, UCM, underhood air restriction reduction, UR pulley.. etc..

 

^ Beside those lol, (nearly stock) there are still a few more things that can be bolted on is what I meant

 

like what? bolt on turbo?

Inacc also has a braille battery if you can call that a bolt-on..

 

It is a crazy difference between your page 1 attitude and now your page 17 attitude. In the beginning you only wanted to get rid of hidden weight and now your like " fuggit." It's all gone. rofl Anyways, I admire your dedication to this. There might be some things in my car I can do without.

And, this is a serious question so don't disregard it. Can you get your 60-0 braking distance? I wonder how much it has improved.

 

This is so darn funny. And, so true. Thanks a bunch NCTL05, seriously.

"fuggit. It's all gone."

 

is this car auto or manual.. if its auto then gutting the car out is pointless as a 6mt is probably still quicker stock

 

 

No, no it's not.

 

I think someone skipped pgs 1-17.

 

- His car is auto.
- No!!! his car is faster than 6mt stock(running approx 4.6 second 0-60mph)
- auto is great for drag racing, most drag cars are auto 3 speeds
- the only bad thing about the auto is honda f**ked up the 5-speed auto.
- stock 6mt < tl "extreme" diet plan 5at
- fully bolt on (full weight) 6mt < tl "extreme" diet plan 5at

speaking of which innaccurate i would love to see some 1/4 mile times bud!!! im sure ur in the low 13's if not high 12's.

 

honestly, id say hes low 13's. its usually for every 100lbs off its .1 second. so about 800lbs = .8 seconds, base 5at runs about 14.5(i think), figure 13.2

 

^^exactly

 

wow all I can say it damn... 40k car probably has 30k worth of parts on it now. lol But still interesting to read. umm so is this still a DD or is it going to be a track car?

 

Yes. This is my daily driver. My commute is 78 miles round trip daily. I commute from one side of Houston, thru central Houston, to the other side of Houston.

Houston Daily Driving = Race Track Car

 

Have you ever been pulled over for speeding and if so what is the look on law enforcements face when they look inside?

 

^ I have never been pulled-over in my car since owning the car these past 4 years. Yes, to my amazement too !

I have always wondered the same thing... what would the cop think when he looks inside my car. "Son, you got some explaining to do."

I do make sure that I carry up-to-date registration information with me to prove that the car really belong to me. I would expect for the officer to think that I stole it and just finished stripping it for parts to be sold.

 

Stripped my trunk the other day , and still till' this day I Can't stop opening and closing it .

 

^