Need help!
#1
Need help!
Hi guys, I am looking to purchase a 2004 MDX with 192k miles on it. It would be primarily used as a second car for 8 hour round trips to Wisconsin on the weekends. I've never owned an Acura, but I've heard they are extremely safe. When I used to nanny for a wealthy family, they had a brand new one (this was around 2005-2006) and I loved driving it! Now someone I know is selling their 2004 MDX, and when I went to check it out the check engine light was on. They said I could take it to my mechanic tomorrow to check it out, but I was wondering if the diagnostic codes tell everything that needs to be done to the car or will my mechanic have to like look at everything to determine if the car has problems? My mechanic is my neighbor and he never charges me, but I would like to give him something because I want to make sure I'm buying a car I won't need to spend a ton of money on later. Thanks in advance for your input, I really appreciate it!
#2
Hi guys, I am looking to purchase a 2004 MDX with 192k miles on it. It would be primarily used as a second car for 8 hour round trips to Wisconsin on the weekends. I've never owned an Acura, but I've heard they are extremely safe. When I used to nanny for a wealthy family, they had a brand new one (this was around 2005-2006) and I loved driving it! Now someone I know is selling their 2004 MDX, and when I went to check it out the check engine light was on. They said I could take it to my mechanic tomorrow to check it out, but I was wondering if the diagnostic codes tell everything that needs to be done to the car or will my mechanic have to like look at everything to determine if the car has problems? My mechanic is my neighbor and he never charges me, but I would like to give him something because I want to make sure I'm buying a car I won't need to spend a ton of money on later. Thanks in advance for your input, I really appreciate it!
#3
The Check Engine light is more of a pointer than a diagnosis bible.
Once you know the codes you can at least pinpoint the problematic area to start working.
As pointed out by atomlinks that mileage is very high and odds are it needs a Valve Adjustment and 105K Service PRONTO, Unless you have service records showing otherwise.
Once you know the codes you can at least pinpoint the problematic area to start working.
As pointed out by atomlinks that mileage is very high and odds are it needs a Valve Adjustment and 105K Service PRONTO, Unless you have service records showing otherwise.
#4
If anything buy him a case of beer
If he's a good guy/mechanic he'll give it a full once over to see exactly what it needs. Chances are it may need suspension work with that kind of miles & a timing belt job.
Find out if theres anything maintenance history that comes with the car.
If he's a good guy/mechanic he'll give it a full once over to see exactly what it needs. Chances are it may need suspension work with that kind of miles & a timing belt job.
Find out if theres anything maintenance history that comes with the car.
#5
Thanks everyone! He did say the alternator was just replaced. I don't know what that is or if it's significant. If everything looks okay, what is a fair price to offer? He has it at $4500 OBO, but KBB says it's like $3600.
#6
It all depends on how good the condition is and if it has any maintenance records..
You can tell him that you know there is a big service (Timing Belt + Water Pump) on high mileage cars, If he doesn´t have a record saying he replaced it? that is a 1K service right there.
You can tell him that you know there is a big service (Timing Belt + Water Pump) on high mileage cars, If he doesn´t have a record saying he replaced it? that is a 1K service right there.
#7
Note...It's best to buy a one owner car and spend $150 to have the car checked out, by an Acura/Honda mechanic (also ask the mechanic if it has been in a wreck).
You mention, "someone that you know" is selling their car.
How well do you know him, as he's asking full dealer retail ($4,500).
Is he a used car dealer?
Currently, $3,400 is just over auction value.
You don't know what you're getting, when you buy a car at an auction, just like with this 2004 mdx.
Use these 3 negotiable issues, to get the price down:
1. It's not a well maintained, one owner car or at least it doesn't sound like it is and he should have gotten the service/repair/maintenance history when he bought it.
He can't expect to get the full retail price without records.
Just how regular were the fluids changed...once the day before it was offered for sale?
One alternator receipt, for a 192,000 mile car is the same as no documentation and is an insult to the buyer.
2. The check engine light issue (which he is expecting you to resolve) is a sign that some reoccurring problem exists, otherwise he would have receipts showing a repair had been made.
3. The car should have 156,000 miles on it for its age and is very close to its $1,500 timing belt maintenance requirement. He used up the life of the timing belt and he should pay for it.
Don't start your 1st offer at $4,500 - the timing belt = $3,000.
Instead, offer him $2,000 and don't go over $3,000.
You'll say "your asking $4,500 and my boyfriend/husband said that our budget is $2,000".
If he sticks firm at $4,500 just walk away.
He should say $4,000 and you talk about issue #1 (above) and about the check engine light that might come back on.
Then you offer $2,500.
If he sticks firm at $4,000 just walk away.
He should come down a little, maybe $3,800 or $3,750 and you talk about #3 (above).
Then say your final offer is $3,000.
You've told him why your offer was $2,000, because of the lack of records, the check engine light, and the timing belt and you've come up as far as you can, at $3,000.
Remember, a one owner, clean (non-wrecked), well maintained vehicles with complete service records will bring the max retail price, of $4,500.
You mention, "someone that you know" is selling their car.
How well do you know him, as he's asking full dealer retail ($4,500).
Is he a used car dealer?
Currently, $3,400 is just over auction value.
You don't know what you're getting, when you buy a car at an auction, just like with this 2004 mdx.
Use these 3 negotiable issues, to get the price down:
1. It's not a well maintained, one owner car or at least it doesn't sound like it is and he should have gotten the service/repair/maintenance history when he bought it.
He can't expect to get the full retail price without records.
Just how regular were the fluids changed...once the day before it was offered for sale?
One alternator receipt, for a 192,000 mile car is the same as no documentation and is an insult to the buyer.
2. The check engine light issue (which he is expecting you to resolve) is a sign that some reoccurring problem exists, otherwise he would have receipts showing a repair had been made.
3. The car should have 156,000 miles on it for its age and is very close to its $1,500 timing belt maintenance requirement. He used up the life of the timing belt and he should pay for it.
Don't start your 1st offer at $4,500 - the timing belt = $3,000.
Instead, offer him $2,000 and don't go over $3,000.
You'll say "your asking $4,500 and my boyfriend/husband said that our budget is $2,000".
If he sticks firm at $4,500 just walk away.
He should say $4,000 and you talk about issue #1 (above) and about the check engine light that might come back on.
Then you offer $2,500.
If he sticks firm at $4,000 just walk away.
He should come down a little, maybe $3,800 or $3,750 and you talk about #3 (above).
Then say your final offer is $3,000.
You've told him why your offer was $2,000, because of the lack of records, the check engine light, and the timing belt and you've come up as far as you can, at $3,000.
Remember, a one owner, clean (non-wrecked), well maintained vehicles with complete service records will bring the max retail price, of $4,500.
Last edited by Carpayment4life; 11-01-2016 at 01:10 AM.