Skirmich

Hi Guys!


I am happy to say: I am now a proud owner of an Acura MDX 2007 Tech/Enter pkg with 72K on the clock...
Sadly no Timing Belt procedure done so there is that new Xmas Gift will be a Timing Belt Job.


I will be relying on you guys for specific info about it.. Right now I´m trying to get the grip to the horrible DBW Pedal but once it hits VTAK is Game Over that thing really pulls its weight.. Although is still "slow" compared to my TL-S but I guess is alright for an SUV.


On my next to do schedule for the week:
3x3 to the trans with DW-1
Replace Diff Fluid with DW-1
Replace Transfer Fluid with Mobil 1 Syn 75W-90
Replace A/F with OEM Type 2.
Replace Engine Oil and Filter with Mobil 1 Syn EP 5W-30
Replace Engine Air Filter and Cabin Air Filter with K&N
Replace Spark Plugs with NGK Iridium IX


Get info on:
1.- How the hell do I reset the Oil % Meter?
2.- Why I get random Low-Oil warnings all of the sudden?
3.- Sometimes I hear a small buzz like a vibration motor near the dash on the drivers side? This happened twice on random occasions.




That's about it! I just got home after a 300 mile trip with it so I had a blast "Test Driving it" Home. That DBW Pedal Though, Makes City Driving feel like I am driving a 120hp SUV.

Carpayment4life

Welcome aboard.
Does DBW refer to the drive by wire throttle?
Does "A/F with type 2" refer to your radiator coolant?

Myself, I bought an 07 MDX Sport, with 72,000 miles last Summer.
I did what is on your list, too.
Here are some torque and part numbers:

I replaced the oil filter and used full synthetic oil and 7 oz of Seafoam, then 200 miles later, I changed the oil and filter again. Oil plug torque 29 lbf-ft, if you use the aluminum 14mm crush washer.
9lbf-ft if you use the Oil-Tite metal rubber (9/16-14mm) washer.

The (front) transfer case uses .6 qt. of HGO-1 GL5 75w-85 part# 08200-9014a. Open the upper plug first and both washers are torqued to 33 lbf=ft, washers = 20mm id. part# 90441-pk4-000.

The (rear) differential uses 2.6 qts of DPSF part# 08200-9007a. Open the top plug first and torque to 35lbf-ft. The top washer is part# 94109-20000 and the bottom washer is part# 90471-px4-000. Note* After 2006, atf-z1 is no longer used.

Transmission lower (drain) bolt torque is 36 lbf-ft. It uses an 18mm id. crush washer. Rig up something, to re-fill thru your ATF dip stick hole, because the top tranny fill plug is impossible to crack open.

My pre-gapped (at .044 inch, but verify the gap at the counter, before you pay) ngk-izfr6k 11 spark plugs are torqued to 13 lbf-ft.

Other than that I prettied it up a little.

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

your timing belt and spark plugs aren't due until 105k miles. there is no time interval. this is indicated by MID 4.

follow the maintenance minder system for your maintenance schedule. if there is no service history available for your MDX, then switching out the fluids is not a bad idea. from there you may follow the MID for your service schedule. if you don't have an owner's manual then find one. the maintenance schedule is slightly different than your 2G TL.

resetting your oil life monitor...go to the oil life indicator, hold the reset button on your steering wheel for 10 seconds or so and the MID will flash your next scheduled maintenance codes and ask you to reset or cancel.

don't know about the low oil pressure or dash buzzing. you may want to monitor your oil levels or just take it in and have someone look at it (for leaks or engine oil burn).

Skirmich

I replied in your quote! Thank you very much for the heads up!

Skirmich

Thank you so much for your time.

Carpayment4life

The (rear) differential uses 2.6 qts of DPSF part# 08200-9007a. Open the top plug first and torque to 35lbf-ft. The top washer is part# 94109-20000 and the bottom washer is part# 90471-px4-000. Note* After 2006, atf-z1 is no longer used.

So DW-1 doesn't replace the Z1? There is a special Diff Fluid for the MDX?


Correct.
After 2006, atf-z1 is no longer used.

I looked around quite a bit on this.

RDX10

Congratulations and welcome to the site. I really wanted an MDX as well, I still to this day think it is one of the nicest SUV's on the road. The fururistic design did not age at all. Looks excellent still today!

In terms of the DBW delay, I agree, it was horrible in the MDX I tested as well. Thought it was isolated. Will need to test another to find out.

Skirmich

Thanks man! I actually bought it for exactly the same reason, it doesn't age at all! the interior is so nice I am now off-putting when I get into the TL-S... Its so nice and modern, I think the only thing I am missing is the adaptive cruise control.

I went to the autoparts store to get the engine oil and a lady parked in front of me with a +2014 Mercedes SUV, I kid you not she totally stood for about 2 seconds watching the MDX when walking to the store.. I have only received compliments for the car, they cant believe its an 07.


About the DBW.. I recently found that its becoming more lively.. I think the pedal learns the driving style and adapts to it because it has become more peppy out of the line since I got it (2nd full tank). I can say its now a little more responsive about 1/4th the pedal.. Before I had to press around 1/2 the pedal to get the acceleration I wanted WOT still has the biggest response yet... Is pretty awesome once it gets moving, Tons of power to overtake in the highway. The City driving though is still overwhelming.

Ohh yes also.. I need a new Inner Tie Rod hahaha.. The horrible tump in the drivers side didn't went away, I jacked the car and found a lot of play in the Inner Driver Tie Rod. So I am replacing that tomorrow.

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

As far as the service minders popping up...the car is not going to know whether their is fresh fluid in there or not (engine oil, differential etc). The car uses a complex algorithm to calculate when the most appropriate timing to have services done (engine turnover, environment etc).

There is no A or B schedule for the timing belt per se. There is no 7 year rule as in earlier Acuras. My 3G TL has no time interval listed for the timing belt. I have 58k miles on it and the car is over 10 years old. I have not done the timing belt yet. The only reason you'd be doing the TB at 60k mi intervals would be if you lived in an extreme climate year round. The last I checked San Diego doesn't exactly fit the bill unless the car lived somewhere else (like the Mojave) for the first part of its life.

The MiD codes: A = oil change, B = oil change and a whole bunch of inspections, 1= tire rotation, 2= engine and cabin filter replace, 3= replace trans fluid, 4= timing belt, spark plugs, 5= replace coolant, 6= replace differential and transfer case fluid

These are general descriptions. More detailed descriptions can be found in your owners manual or online if you register your car with myacura.com.

Yes you can reset the oil life/MID at anytime during the cycle. Just know that the car's computer will think you have done the required services.
If it helps, the trans fluid seems to be replaced around 25k-30k mi intervals based on my car's MID. The differential assumed the first time was around 15k (I am the second owner, the car was a lease and serviced at my dealer prior to my ownership) the second time was around 40k. The car alternates between A and B service with a series of numbers ie, "A12 or B1 or A13".

Be careful to not get too accelerator happy, the MDX guzzles gas around town. Road trips are really where the MDX shines in fuel economy for how heavy she is.

You may uncover random stupid things that start to go bad. Sounds like you're handy enough to do a good bit of DIY.

RDX10

I have an 07 RDX tech and still when I sit in the MDX, I am amazed at how well done it is. I like the dual cockpit design and the large plastiwood trim is pretty cool. I also believe that 3.7 can scream when mashed lol. My little 2.3 can't ever sound larger than it is.

Trust me, I think the MDX is much better looking than the mercedes suv's. It gets close when compared the the BMW SUV's though.

I am glad the throttle lag is going away. I used to have this transmission reset in my german cars where you insert the key in the ignition but DO NOT turn it on, turn it on to accessory mode. Then press the gas pedal all the way down for 30 seconds and this would reset the transmission learning and it would now adapt to you and how you drive. This is good if the old driver was an old lady or man or something.

I don't know if the mdx has this feature, but for sure worth a try.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zRcPHjurh1g

Here is a video with what looks like a 3G TL.

Skirmich

Hi guys.. I did a trip today about 90 miles and had a chance to try the cruise in a long straight.

Now I am wondering about trans ratios.. My TL-S like to run at 2000rpm for about 80mph.
My MDX did the same 2K RPM but in about 70mph, is this normal??
Here is a pic:


I now I might be just overthinking but I want to be sure.

RDX10

The MDX weighs at least 1k more than the tl and the big 3.7 is rather highly strung. Therefore, it will need to run at higher rpms in order to keep pace. I bet it also kicks down at mild grades as well.

Skirmich

I was worried the TC might be acting up but since the MID was clear I was just tripping. I wish it were a 6 speed Auto..

Thanks for the clarification! I am flying in the dark without the service manual.....

Skirmich

Did my spark plugs!! Had the OEM Denso plugs so... 72K spark plug change...
Thoughts:

1.- Incredibly easy to change them!! bless the guy who decided to remove the hex securing bolts for the coil packs in favor of simple nuts.. Made the job a lot easier.

2.- No need to remove any other parts to replace them! In my TL-S I have to remove the IMRC motor and the pressure hose from the PS Line to reach the dreaded cyl 1 spark plug, In the X there was no need to remove anything more than the engine cover and there was a lot of room to play.. I didn't need any special extensions to replace them.

The car runs noticeably smoother and the shifts feels nicer.. There was some wear on the Denso plugs so I dunno how honda expect them to last 100K

Skirmich

Now:


Engine Oil + Filter (Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 & K&N Filter)
Transfer Fluid (Mobil 1 Syn LS 75W-90
Transmission Fluid (DW-1) first of 3 more to come.


Thoughts:
Engine oil was a breeze! Thankfully all bolts and washers were properly specd so no stripped bolts and no stuck filters.


Transfer Fluid again pretty darn easy! took about half quarter of oil... I was a little bit brownish so I suspect it was the original fluid.


Transmission Fluid: MAN what the hell with the fill bolt????? Stuck to hell! I snapped an extension so it was a lot more of 150ft-lb of force applied... Impossible to break loose. I had to guetto fill from the dipstick... It seems the stock fluid was in there because it looked darkish.. I think it was a +20K fluid in there.


Car now feels wayyyyy smoother... Engine feels more powerful and snappier and overall it feels better. Now only thing left are Anti-Freeze flush and Differential Fluid Change.

nats007

Welcome Sir! The MDX is a nice addition. My wife loves her 2011 Tech and I got her 2G TL as a daily

Skirmich

Thanks man! I am still loving it! getting constant 16mpg too and 23 on hwy! cant ask for more.

I only need to do Anti-Freeze Flush and Diff fluid replacement to have all sparking new fluids on her, The K&N filter is on the mail too and yes I know it might not make any difference but its a little placebo I want....
It runs so smooth since the fluid change, Specially the mpgs went up..

Skirmich

DPSF just came in... My dealer didn't have a stock so I had to wait a painful week to get it. Tomorrow I'll change it with the ATF again.

Skirmich

DIFF DONE! To my surprise it was already changed with DPSF as the color was caramel instead of Cherry (ATFZ1).. So one less worry.

Trans 2nd ATF change done too.. Shifts are getting much smoother only 1 more change to go.