FiftyFive

My rear driver side door lock has trouble unlocking, like I have to hit the unlock button 5 or 6 times before it finally opens. It makes sort of a grinding/rumbling noise when it tries to open each time I hit the unlock button.

Is this a case of the lock actuator going bad? I want to try and replace it if it is.

Thanks!

007Acura

Sounds like it may be the actuator. I would take apart the door and see what it going on, maybe part of it could be lubricated or cleaned.

FiftyFive

I think I'm gonna take the door panel off tomorrow and give it a look. Is it necessary to have that trim removal tool or would a flat head, etc work..?

WholesalePartsGuy

Its sounds like the actuator to me as well .IF so ? I can get you one shipped directly to you @ 20% off list price shipping included!

007Acura

You should be able to use a flat head. I got this from another MDX forum, it should help.


04 right rear door actuator diy
Hi everyone, today I did the RR door actuator, but only changed the motor (mabuchi FC280PC 22125 off ebay) The lock was working intermittently and I know it will fail soon.

Steps: The first 6 steps are similar to removing the front doors with less screws and no mirror: door panel removal - pics too

1) Windows should be up and have the radio code before disconnecting the battery.

2) There are 2 screws to remove. One is by the inner handle and the other in the armrest cavity. There are plastic covers over them you need to pry open.

3) After you remove the inner handle screw, you need to push that unit forward and it will come loose but you need to pry the plastic hinge off the rod.

4) Pry open the courtesy light and then turn the light socket until it comes loose.

5) The switch panel with the window control can be pried loose starting near the back. When you loosen it, there is a connector you need to disconnect.

6) There are 8 clips than you need to pry to get the door loose. I have attached what they look like and where they are here. I used a trim pad remover and started near the bottom.
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7) Peel back some of the white sheeting. There might be optional screws near the center to remove.
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8) Looking into the door we see the actuator with the 2 connectors. Disconnect them. There are 2 screws that holds the actuator in place BUT there is a black plastic protector over it. It is tough to see in the pic but when you look at it you will see a little silver screw. That needs to be removed first and then the plastic cover will come right off. Then get those 2 screws off and you will be able to fish the actuator out. The door lock tab should be down so that it is easier to get the hinge off the hook. You will see what I mean.
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9) Remove the 5 screws and carefully pry open the actuator by using a flat head screw driver in the space between the 2 black rubber thingies. DO NOT let the BIG white wheel/gear fall out. It is under tension and is tough to put back.
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10) Inside the actuator is that motor:
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I replaced the motor exactly like the way this guy (not me) did in his video for the lexus GS (starting at 2:00):


Remember when you close up the actuator, test that the white lever moves. If not open it again and reposition it a little and try again.

I'm just pleasantly shocked I fixed this for like $10 (motor) and $15 (gear puller) and about an hour of my time.

End Quote

FiftyFive

Thanks! I actually took the door panel apart and the actuator itself tonight. I cleaned it up a little and put everything back together and now it just seems to work?!

I'll see if it holds up for now and replace it if necessary. At least I feel comfortable getting to it now,