not really, the 07-09 MDX are pretty rock solid and may need a new PCV which is less than $20 if oil slowly disappears. 2010+ Need thousands of dollars of work...

I plan on just adding oil every week like I've been doing (0.5 quarts it seems) and seeing how long it can go. I'm not sure what the previous owners did, but at one point it was in a dealer per the CARFAX for a low oil light, so at least 1 time someone wasn't paying attention to it.

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1 time is enough to damage the engine.
Adding oil is not the best solution, it will get worse over time.
Burning oil in combustion chamber will make compression rings stick. Sticking rings will scratch cylinder walls.
Over time consumption will increase even more, carbon will block remaining holes in oil return rings.More oil consumed equals to more carbon in combustion chamber.
Car will run like poop, compression will increase and there will be preignition-detonation.
Keep in mind carbon is worst enemy of the engine

What does Acura do the an engine, which they consider to be covered under they oil consumption warranty?
Can the cylinders be bored out a few thousandths and if so, how many times?

They used different rings and pistons in the pre 2010 J37's. No idea why they decided to change them.

The pistons and rings are replaced with updated parts. Rod bearings are replaced as needed. No boring, these blocks have high silicone aluminum cylinders and require special honing and/or boring from what I've been told.

Rings were changed to reduce frictional drag energy loss and increase fuel efficiency...
In order to fix the block it needs to be bored, the process is not much different compared to cast iron sleeves. But after that it needs to be coated-plated... There was company in Wisconsin, which used to fix Porsche Nikasil aluminum blocks.
If I am not mistaking, price was around $4000. Not cheap...

You know what sucks? You're right and I didn't come back to look at this post until now. So pissed.... ours seems to be getting worse. It's on me though and we bought it cheap so I guess whatever, lol.

So I've thought about it a little more.... I had to add about 3 quarts at 5k miles on the oil. I guess I probably wouldn't meet the requirement at more than a qt per 1k miles anyway. I spoke with my local dealer yesterday about the issue. The service guy said some customers have used Seafoam with good results. Gonna give it a shot to see if it improves. He also recommended conventional oil over synthetic. Going to make the switch to that also.

That's still excessive as fuck IMO. My 2006 MDX would go 6000 miles and still be full every oil change with 250,000+ miles on the thing and I don't drive nicely...

These 2010 and up 3.7 liters are a problem...it's only gonna get worse, it isn't gonna fix itself lol. You should do the oil consumption test and see how it goes, assuming you're under 125k miles and less than 8 years from original purchase date. Seafoam does not fix it from my experience, I've also tried the BG stuff.

It's too bad parts are so expensive, I'd be inclined to do these at home for a reasonable price. The person would really have to love their vehicle...

I agree but it's a 2010 and almost 200k.

Service guy is trying to sabotage your car. People like that makes me mad. I just don't get it , what is the point to give advice if he doesn't know what he is talking about. And going to conventional oil??? Geez, that guy is not the sharpest tool in the box.
Seafoam??? with good results?? what kind a joke is this? Seafoam, will do nothing to sludge or carbon.

What is the sequence of doing a piston soak, on the MDX?

So looks like there is a class action suite or something in California. Some people have reported it on MDXers forum.

Since mine is a US car, I have received the letter in US, waiting to receive a scanned copy.

I got the letter also

just had my 2010 MDX done with the piston ring recall, and it drives so smooth now. i was hitting 200k a the time of this recall, so i also had the timing belt, water pump, and new RVT on the oil pump done. so now my vehicle is good to go on some road trips.

unless you’ve paid out of pocket and fixed then this class action is worthless

How much extra did they charge you for the timing belt, water pump and the what I’m guessing is the timing chain on the oil pump?

Ok so My latest oil check has got me worried. I did a check today and saw no oil on the stick:eek:, Tried 3 times, same result. Quickly topped it up but to me surprise it was at top mark in just 2 quarts, whats going on?

Here is the history since my last full oil & filter change

66374 - Oil & Filter changed - measured to half mark on stick, oil was light color

67275 - Oil was near lower bar, so added half quart which was slightly above half mark

68796 - No oil on stick, showed light color, topped up 2 quarts, oil checked showed little dark.

I dont see any oil spill on the ground. The driveway is at a slight angle so I dont know if thats the reason for low level but thats how I always measure so it has been consistent from that point.

What should I do? Looks like just topping off may not be a viable solution for too long...

Rough math shows you are not eligible for oil consumption warranty work.
Just add a quart on the 1st of every month, under normal driving. If you go on a road trip, take a some oil with you.

Thanks for the advise, yeah will check more regularly now or like you said just add oil as a habit every start of month. Sigh...

Do you know how much does the oil consumption work cost if done outside warranty?

I don't know what else is done besides a "ring job", so probably under $5,000.
If you search for the Class Action Lawsuit over thus issue and get on the list, you might reimbursed, otherwise you have to follow Honda's warranty guidelines.

I have recived the letter but not sure how can I claim it since i am in Canada now. Will check at one of the shops for an estimate.

Or maybe its time to change the car afterall.

You can only get reimbursed if you've already paid to fix it out of pocket BEFORE the date of the letter. No estimates and what not at this point, either you have a receipt showing you paid 3 grand out of pocket or you are out of luck if your car is too old or over mileage.

Oh ok, that rules me out I guess.

Looking at getting a used MDX for my daughter. Looks like if we stay with a 2007-2008, we should be able to avoid this issue?

Yup pretty much, those are the years with the LEAST amount of reported oil consumption issues... Some folks have come saying theirs had an issue but its a handful while the +2010 MDX models are the more notorious and widespread..

Honestly,
If you are looking to get a 3 row SUV from the late 2000s for your daughter, get a Highlander. They are far more reliable. Might not be as "fun" to drive as an MDX but those things last forever. Plus in 2008 they moved to a timing chain.

I-4 Toyota engines burns more oil compared to j37..... And there are many reports of v6 Highlander's burning oil. Toyota have same problem, oil return rigs... But the I-4 found in older Camry or hybrid's are the worst from Toyota lineup...

I forget that they offered a 4 cylinder. I meant to say that I was referring to the V6. (I think that they went V6 only in 2008) Yes, those 4 cylinder engines had oil issues. That Toyota V6 is a beast of reliability. The (V6) Highlander is far more reliable than the MDX. Plus you don't have to shell out $$$$ to replace the timing belt.

There are reports of 2008 burning oil (for example):
https://www.carproblemzoo.com/toyota...l-problems.php

I have seen dissembled engine from 2012 Highlander, great engine, but the oil return rings were already clogged... Clogged rings=oil consumption...

If you are buying for reliability it does not get better than Toyota. Boring cars, but they are the most reliable.
Their V6 GR engines are just reliable workhorses.

I am sorry, but there are few modifications of GR engines, some of them are know for carbon deposits and head gaskets leaks.
In my opinion older, port injection J35 engines is one the best engines (reliability vise) ever made (dont like timing belt and required valve adjustment). If i would have to chose Toyota or Honda, would go for Honda.

If I had to choose over toyota or honda I will go with honda.. Mostly because I can have FUN and RELIABILITY on the same car.

Thank you for your thoughts. I actually just came to this conclusion on my own last night. Then you just confirmed it. I found a 2009 AWD V6 Highlander with 190K miles for $7600 100 miles away I think we'll go look at. Looks very clean in the pictures...But don't they all? LOL...

Looking at Consumer Reports reliability results the 2009 Highlander gets 5/5 overall for reliability while the 2009 MDX gets 3/5. The 2012 JD Power reliability (they lag 3 years to gather reliability data) has the Highlander at 83/100 and MDX at 74/100.
Lastly a good friend owns a repair shop, he himself is ASE Master certified. He just doesn't see Toyota/Lexus come in for repairs. He knows his customers have them as he will perform pre purchase inspections and maintenance (such as fluid changes) but they just don't break down. (According to him, the worst cars....Jeeps and BMWs)

But these are all averages. You are buying 1 car and are at the mercy of the previous owners maintenance. But if I am buying a car for my daughter (which I will have to do in a couple of years) Toyota/Lexus is where I will look.
As of now, my daughter doesn't like SUVs and likes sedans...so I am thinking an early model ES350 (around 2010-11). She wants a Subaru WRX/STi, but that is NOT happening. (I have a heavily modified Subaru and she loves that car) I might compromise on an IS350 as that is much more fun to drive than the ES350.

Made a video about this


(From a technicians viewpoint) 🔧

Xavier, Where are you located ?