2013 MDX dead battery
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3.2cls6speedmt (10-23-2017)
#4
You will need a volt-meter and Know how to use the Amp draw setting.
1.- Disconnect your positive battery terminal and put your voltmeter in series with the battery positive terminal (Dont have any accessories turned on, Do not insert the key in the car).
2.- Check for amp draw with the car locked (Do not even insert the key) you don´t want anything turned on, not even interior lights or doors opened.. Basically like how the car sits when locked in your garage:
-Normal will be between 0.230A-0.320A (Car locked with absolutely no accessories turned on).
-Abnormal will be 2-3A Draw
3.- If you have normal draw then the HFL Unit is not to blame. If you have abnormal draw then disconnect the HFL Unit to diagnose it.
4.- If the heavy draw drops when disconnecting the HFL Unit then the HFL Unit is dead.. Must keep disconnected to avoid more battery drains or replace HFL Unit.
5.- If there is no change after disconnecting the HFL Unit but you still see a high draw? Then the HFL Unit is not your issue.. A more involved diagnosed is in order.
That is how you diagnose the HFL Unit but this method will also work when diagnosing the A/C Clutch Relay (Another possible draw issue).
1.- Disconnect your positive battery terminal and put your voltmeter in series with the battery positive terminal (Dont have any accessories turned on, Do not insert the key in the car).
2.- Check for amp draw with the car locked (Do not even insert the key) you don´t want anything turned on, not even interior lights or doors opened.. Basically like how the car sits when locked in your garage:
-Normal will be between 0.230A-0.320A (Car locked with absolutely no accessories turned on).
-Abnormal will be 2-3A Draw
3.- If you have normal draw then the HFL Unit is not to blame. If you have abnormal draw then disconnect the HFL Unit to diagnose it.
4.- If the heavy draw drops when disconnecting the HFL Unit then the HFL Unit is dead.. Must keep disconnected to avoid more battery drains or replace HFL Unit.
5.- If there is no change after disconnecting the HFL Unit but you still see a high draw? Then the HFL Unit is not your issue.. A more involved diagnosed is in order.
That is how you diagnose the HFL Unit but this method will also work when diagnosing the A/C Clutch Relay (Another possible draw issue).
The following users liked this post:
3.2cls6speedmt (10-23-2017)
#5
I just went through troubleshooting a parasitic power draw that was killing the battery when the car sat overnight. The problem ended up being the motorized tailgate close button (Part number: 35800-SED-003) located on the underside of the tailgate. $20 part
FYI regarding troubleshooting. First, I tried unplugging the Bluetooth handsfree module, battery still went dead overnight. Second, I replaced the AC clutch relay, battery still went dead overnight. Thirdly, I started unplugging fuses overnight and checking to see if the vehicle started in the morning. I found that when I unplugged the interior lights fuse the battery did not go dead overnight. I then noticed that the tailgate close button remained illuminated for what seemed to be too long. I unplugged the switch and left all the fuses plugged in and the battery did not go dead YAY!!!! New switch arrived yesterday, installed it and everything is functioning properly.
FYI regarding troubleshooting. First, I tried unplugging the Bluetooth handsfree module, battery still went dead overnight. Second, I replaced the AC clutch relay, battery still went dead overnight. Thirdly, I started unplugging fuses overnight and checking to see if the vehicle started in the morning. I found that when I unplugged the interior lights fuse the battery did not go dead overnight. I then noticed that the tailgate close button remained illuminated for what seemed to be too long. I unplugged the switch and left all the fuses plugged in and the battery did not go dead YAY!!!! New switch arrived yesterday, installed it and everything is functioning properly.
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