nab0610

Hey all love the forum so far my black on black i4 with tech will be ready tomorrow, psyched!

I have never owned a black car, but I've always loved the look of them. I have quite a few cleaning products and consider myself to be at least average to above average.

The products and process I'm planning to use are:

Meguiars gold wash
Meguiars ultimate quick detailer
Lexol interior
Meguiars tire gel
Meguiars ultimate carnauba wax
microfiber sponge
clay bar
Meguiars swirl x
Terry towels

Going to try and wash every week but at least every other and wax every 1-2 months so I can keep that black looking shiny.

After every wash I'll be using Meguiars ultimate quick detailer and terry towels. Should I have any issues with dirt and debris I'll be using clay bar and Meguiars swirl x.

Where I fall short of on knowledge is polishing and cleaning that retched glass. How often should I be doing this and any particular products or tools that you guys recommend?

jswift2000

Good luck with the black car. If you're in a cold area during the winter you may want to check out Optimum No Rinse and Wash. I wash the car in the garage during the the winter and it works. I would also pick up a good sealant - Black Fire, Zaino, Optimum, etc - and protect the car. I use Sonax Full Effect wheel cleaner on my cars when the wheels are really, really dirty. Pick up some really good microfiber towels, quality wash mitts and research proper wash techniques. I could go on and on so check out autogeek.net, autopia.org, autopiaforums.com, etc and do lots of research.

miner

Black is not a color - it is a commitment.

Before applying the carnuba wax us the Meguiars NXT poly sealant for a deep, wet shine - preferably two coats. Take your time with the clay bar - it is an art to learn the proper use.

Stew4HD

Indeed, clay bar use is a time consuming but great way to really bring out the shine. I find it best to watch several YouTube videos about it. Chemical Guys website also has many tips and tricks.. I like their products.. including the foam gun washing method!

jeich182

I have a Berlina Black S2000 that I try to keep beautiful even though the car sees a decent amount of track time. If you listen to no one else who responds, listen to me.


First and foremost, "two-bucket method with 'grit guards'". It's a wash technique that will keep you from rubbing dirt you've removed through washing back on the finish as you complete the wash. Good products are nice but this single technique will do more for preventing swirls than any fancy new product at any price.

For a wash I like to use Meguiar's Hyperwash, it's a fantastic product from their pro line and is very cost-effective. Adam's and Optimum are also good and for a Pep Boys type wash I keep some Mother's CA Gold Carnauba Wash & Wax on hand.

When you dry the car, try to use a leaf blower for as much of it as you can. Your goal is to reduce the area/amount of time a chamois (Absorber in my case) touches the finish.

Don't get a clay bar. They're ancient and outdated. Get a Nanonskin Autoscub pad. They are a little more expensive but they are extremely effective, won't trap dirt indefinitely, lasts longer, and you don't have to throw it away if you drop it.

For LSP it varies on each of my cars. On my leased TSX I use Collinite 845 wax, it's a workhorse wax and also very cost-effective. On my wife's MDX I use Menzerna Power Lock, an excellent paint sealant. On my S2000 I use either P21S 100% Carnauba Wax or (currently) Lusso Oro Carnauba Wax.


Funny you posted this. I'm getting ready to call my dealer this week and ask him to assign a VIN to the deal/deposit I left to lock in the 2 payment offer. I'm going back and forth between Graphite Luster and Crystal Black.
CBP:GLM:

CheeseyPoofs McNut

I've gotten into detailing in a major way over the past few years so while I'm hardly a grizzled veteran I feel qualified to offer a few suggestions:

If you're serious about this you'll want a Dual Action Rotary Polisher. I got the Porter Cable 7424XP however lots of pros recommend the Griots one as a little better. The PC works great for me. (Search AutoGeek.net for both)

Quality MF Towels - these things are not cheap but awesome isn't usually cheap! (Click -> MICROPAK 16" x 16" "Big Boy" Ultra-Plush Micro Fiber Towel 530 gsm)

You'll need a couple Home Depot 5 gallon buckets and a couple Grit Guards: Click -> The Grit Guard, grit guard insert, bucket grate, car wash bucket grid,

I'm a fan of the Cobra Guzzler waffle weave towels for drying: click-> Cobra Guzzler HD Waffle Weave Drying Towel,Guzzler HD,Cobra Drying Towel,Microfiber towel,Microfiber Drying towel,car drying towel

The process then is really pretty simple - visit the forums on autogeek for lots of tips and tricks on how to do each step:

1) Wash/Strip off existing wax and sealant
2) Clay or nanoskin
3) Polish with your new dual action polisher! This is the step that will separate you from the amateurs! Seriously - and the good news is that you only have to do it once a year or so.
4) Seal
5) Enjoy!!!

Then on a weekly basis wash with the two bucket method. I like to use Duragloss Aquawax every other week after washing. It's a spray on - wipe off wax with minor sealant properties. click -> Duragloss Aquawax (AW) #951

Good luck!!

nab0610

Wow had no idea a site like that existed lol. I could probably get lost reading it if I had the time, information overload 101.

I thought I was pretty good, but turns out I'm more average with above average effort haha. Looks like I got some more work to do, I'll post some stuff up in a bit with the products I end up getting and how they turn out.

Thanks

slats

I recommend not going crazy with all these steps on a new car. Keep in mind the more you touch a black car the more swirls you'll introduce. Two bucket method, microfiber towels, and washing with a quality mit going horizontal top to bottom (not circular motions like with wax) will all help lessen swirls. But in my experience once you have them only aggressive buffing will remove them totally. Swirl X made more swirls for me.

All this being said, I highly recommend Meguiars Black Wax. It come in what look like a tube of toothpaste and is full of polishing oils that black cars need. Goes on kinda greasy but then wipes right off leaving zero dust.

CheeseyPoofs McNut

I'm a big fan of Mike Phillips on Autogeek - he's the real deal. You can search for his how-to videos on youtube and spend countless hours learning about detailing tips and tricks click -> https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+mike+phillips

In fact here's a basic one that shows how easy it is to use the Porter Cable DA polisher ->
The guys over at DriveAccord talked me into polishing my brand new Accord (it's NEW - how can it need to be polished???) and I can say it really made a believer out of me. The shine was deeper and really amazing.

When I traded my Honda in it was two years old and looked *better* than the cars in the new car showroom!!

jeich182

Yes, less is more. Unless you have a DA polisher (I use a PC 7424XP) NEVER use a swirl remover or cleaner wax on your black car. Two bucket method and try to use a leaf blower to lessen the amount of drying you have to do. It's all about minimizing contact of anything with the finish. BTW for supplies I like www.detailersdomain.com.

nab0610

Well yea I mean I'm not going to take it home from the dealer and use the swirl remover was only going after that if I get some bad swirls.

I've seen those black waxes, but I don't see very much information on them. I've heard really bad things about the turtle wax black box though.

blownby

awesome tips.

I have always been a fan of meguirs products!

Jesstzn

Stay the hell away from the Absorber .. You will swirl the crap out of the paint drying with it. Use quality WW drying towels.

nab0610

Yea I've heard good and bad things about those chamois. Unfortunately I don't own a leaf blower. I was thinking best might be to just drive the car and let the wind blow dry it or use terry towels.

Jesstzn

Terry towels will get you micro marring and driving around will get you water spots .. Bite the bullet and buy a couple of Waffle Weave drying towels.

Melrosejeff

Zanio products are the way to go, every car I have ever owned has been black.

CheeseyPoofs McNut

I've got an absorber that I use to - wait for it - absorb water off the car!

The trick is put it on the car and let it sit for a few seconds (while it absorbs the water) then pick it off and wring it out - don't drag it across the car. I use it first to get most of the water off then I come at it with the Cobra Guzzler to finish drying. Never had a problem with it and it wrings out so much better than the WW's.

I should add that my wife thinks I'm crazy when I do all this and I guess I'm a little anal I suppose but I enjoy my car washing time in the garage!

Jesstzn

Take forever to dry the car .. setting yourself up for water spotting.

Jesstzn

Ok now all is said above I'll post a proven method for "safe" washing and drying. If you want you can add a leaf blower in the mix but not everyone has one.

Washing & Drying Cars
Washing


What I'll do is give you a run down of a weekend wash on my own cars.

1)I spray the tires down with Awsome APC and let it sit to do its job. <-- available at the Dollar Tree stores
2) I give the interior a wipe down with the Woolite solution to pick up light dust etc. Instead of me explaining look here ..The Wonders Of Woolite Vacuum if needed. I have a central vac outlet by the garage door and I use it.
3) I mist the tires with water and scrub with a stiff brush, rinse .... no sense dressing dirty tires .. they look like hell.
4) Using a decent car wash soap, Turtle Wax soap will do .. or Meguiars Gold Class I wash the car using a sheepskin mitt and a wash bucket that has a grit guard in the bottom. The sheepskin mitt is used because it easily releases any grit picked up and it won't marr the paint. I have an old dedictaed mitt I use for the wheels. Wash a panel or 2 and rinse.


5) Once done washing I rinse the car using a gentle stream of water from the hose with NO nozzle. A gentle stream will rinse away grit where a blas t can just blow it around and also dislodge grit from cracks and door jams etc.. The gentle stream will also pull about 85% of the water off a well waxed car.
6) I break out the leaf blower and blow off a lot of the remaining water but more to blow water out from all those places it hides. Just make sure the area around the car is wetted down so you don't blow crap up on the car.
7) I use Waffle Weave drying towels to dry the remainder. I fold the towel in 1/4 and wipe the windows first then hood/roof/trunk then the sides. Always dry in straight lines as the air flows over the car not in circles. Reason being is if micro marring does occure its optically harder to see then circular swirls. I use this motion for everything I do in the process of detailing with the exception of applying wax/sealants.
8)Dry the door/trunk/hood edges and under the gass filler lid. I have a separate old m/f drying towel for this. I also give the engine bay area a wipe while I have the hood up.
9) Dry the wheels/tires. I have a dedicated soft bath towel for this.
10) Apply dressing to the tires.

Wala .. done .. If I don't do the interior or use APC on the tires its 40 minutes.. The TL seldom needs those steps cuz its not driven a lot .. The Civic needs it more often ... add 15 min more.

Drying

Here is a couple of hints to make your drying easier , I use 2 WW towels 24 x 36"

1) After you have washed/rinsed the last panel of your car ... remove the nozzle frome the hose and starting at the top use a gentle stream of water to rinse the car.. this will not only flood out any remaining particulate that can mar but it will pull about 85% of the remaining water off a waxed car.

2) Fold one towel in 1/2 so its 12 x 36" and holding it by the fold corners start at the hood and lay it across 1/2 the hood and pull it towards the windshield.. then over the windshield, roof, rear window, across the trunk, over the other 1/2 of the rear window and back to the hood etc.

3) Take the same towel and go down the sides , around the back , down the other side and around the front. This will remove a lot of the water.

4) Take the second towel and fold it in 1/4 and holding it flat dry the windows then hood, roof, trunk and lastly the doors, fenders and bumpers. Flip & refold the towel as needed.


All in all this takes less than 10 min.

Thing is with WW towels you need to use slower strokes in the final drying so you don't leave moisture trails and never use then scrunched up.


Others have suggested patting the car dry so not to swirl it .. WW towels will NOT swirl anything if they are clean and the car is clean. They also then suggest using a QD spray for final touch up ... thats because the patting doesn't do a good job of drying and in some cases where you have hard water you will get water spots. Not only that the QD will clog up the towels.

To wash your drying towels don't wash then with anything else as they pick up lint ... don't use fabric softener.

I wash them in the washing machine using Blue Dawn dish soap. Then hang to dry or dry in the dryer. If you have a HE front load washer then wash them with a non-perfumed soap etc.

In reality if your car is clean and you don't wipe down dirty stuff you won't need to wash them very often.

I have 2 cars and they are washed a total of about 3-5 times a week and I wash my towels a couple times a summer. I also don't use them on the wheels/tires .. I have a dedicated cotton plush towel I use for that.

CheeseyPoofs McNut

Actually I'd be surprised if it takes much longer than your method of using a WW to drag across the car initially. I don't use the absorber on the entire car - just sections where there are more water drops. Plus the absorber can be used on multiple sections before you have to wring it out so while it does add another step I find it makes the WW work that much better as they work best (IMO) when not saturated with water. My method is 100% free of water spots I can guarantee you!

That said - I'm not necessarily promoting use of the abosrber - I bought one as a novelty and really came to like using it in this way as it does a great job of absorbing water. Your drying method as described above is certainly 100% great technique!

nab0610

Certainly a lot of good advice. I spent most of my work day studying and reading up on everything.

Going to wash clay and wax it saturday. Havent had a good sunny chance to inspect the car yet for how much work needs to be done.

Ive heard canarauba wax especially on a black car is better then polishing? Anyone care to comment? Also frequency for waxing assuming i go that route 3-4x a year? More less?

Jesstzn

Waxing and polishing are two totally different things .. polishing does correction , waxing id protection. Carnaubas aren't the best on black if you live where it can get hot. It breaks down in the heat. Sealants are better.

nab0610

I found a friend whose going to show me the way on Sunday. He is experienced, but laughed at me for buying a black car LOL.

If it was your car what products would you use on it first time around?

C8N

I am curious as to why you would say this.

C8N

Make sure to get a fine grade clay. If you get something more aggressive, it may lead to some marring.

Wax/sealants are of a personal preference and most will not be able to tell the different aesthetically. Generally speaking carnauba based waxes does not have the durability of a synthetic. However, it has been my personal experience that carnauba does give better depth but its not a night and day difference to the average eye. With a canauba, I would say to wax every 3 months or so while synthetics will last longer upto 6 months or so. But this will depend on your climate.

Jesstzn

Mild clay bar if you feel any roughness on the paint at all after you wash it ( feel it down the sides .. what I do is wash the side the reapply soapy water and run your hand over it . ) Dry properly per instructions above then a sealant like Meguiars #21 or Duragloss #105

CheeseyPoofs McNut

Duragloss #901 to wash - click -> Duragloss Car Wash Concentrate #901

Fine grade clay - since it's new you don't need anything more than that and as you're not polishing you want to be careful not to mar the paint.

Blackfire Crystal Seal - click -> BLACKFIRE Crystal Seal Paint Sealant 8 oz.

That said - there are lot of products on the market and it comes down to finding what you like. Unfortunately most of the real good stuff won't be available in your local AutoZone store - you need to order it online from the specialty places.

Enjoy and take pictures for us!!

Jesstzn

Duragloss is usually available at Car Quest , if the don't have #105 on the shelf they will bring it in from central warehouse. TW car wash soap is one of the better ones .. available at Walmart got $5 gal.

C8N

I can't speak regarding the expensive boutique waxes but I'll put up the $18.81 Meg's Ultimate Wax against $39.99 Wolfgang DGPS 3.0 any day. I have both and yes DGPS in my opinion looks better... but only marginally and not worth the difference in price. The average person will not be able to tell the difference. As far as durability is concerned, UW is right up there and since it does not need to haze, UW will be quicker. Don't let the price fool you. Meguiars and Mothers both available at Autozone and they make good products.

TW seems to be taking a turn for the better these days. I have been hearing great things about their waterless wash and tire coating.

nab0610

Yea carquest offers all duragloss products out of their DC