wonderer

turbo,

so what was wrong in the first place? Were you the one who posted about the orange and the white wires being connected or not on the green and red connectors. Just wondering if you still had them connected. So was the problem the power source? Just wondering so I dont make the same mistake. Thanks.

turbox777

Yup, the problem was the power source. Instead of tapping from the navi, like the AVC-RGB1 install, tap from the 12V temporarily in the center console or the 12V up in front.

I think the pioneer unit sucks up more power than I thought it would.

does anyone else know where I can tap constant power from? Other than songoku's idea, tapping yellow core to some wire (what color?) behind the driver side fuse box?

silentone

After reading all these posts... i now have to force myself to get Video on Navi working on my 3.2 CLS. I'm about ready to buy a Blitzsafe adapter, where are they sold / how much? Does it fit any headunit?

bnaderi

so who knows how to have to switch automatically to a reverse camera when u pop it in reverse?

bnaderi

boom: so the white shielded wire on the green connector goes to 2 places? the nav display and the interface input? also can u post a pic of ur circuit board that u made for the interface just so i can get an idea. to be honest i dont quite get the interface diagram, if you could explain that a lil better or even provide an actual pic it would help alot.

thanx

geninfty

Hi Turbo,

Yeah, GEX sucks quite amount of current. I still see the ACC-ON
drops to somewhere around 7.6V. I hope it does not cause problem on my HU or another adapters I plug into the cigarette jack. I guess I cannot use 12V->100V adaptor like this.

I got the constant 12V from the stock sub amp connector because I have a separate amp. Even with the stock amp is
there working, you can still tap it out. I don't know where you put your GEX, but this may be close enough. Of course you can tap it fromm the head unit connector, which needs more work to take out the whole HU.

It is an interesting idea to switch the video source to the rear view camera when you put your stick into R. As a matter of fact, I do have a rear view camera. I hooked it to VTR2. But guess what... I am not saying all cameras do, but at least my pin-hole color camera JAMS the gps!!! the GPS antenna is right below the rear flat panel where the subwoofer is installed. I think it's
due to the location.... It is a fact that GPS is very vulnerable to a very high frequency noise.

Another thing is, you may want to get a mirror image camera because a normal camera has flipped view from what you are used to see in the rear view mirror. There are some vendors who sell this kind of camera.

Changing the source to the camera automatically would not be so easy- I am not saying it's impossible, but it will need quite amount of tweak. The first thing popping into my mind is to tap the remote (or use a universal remote) to send a number of video source change signal- but it wouldn't be easy to determine how
many times you should press- there is no button assigned directly to each video source. You just have to cycle through- and this makes things difficult.

avelec

You can find more info on the link below with a plug&play connector:


http://www.acuramdx.org/forums/showt...threadid=10374

Sam.

wonderer

Turbo, THanks for the info..

Anyone knows.?......Is it important to have the constant 12v wire from the GEX to be connected with a good power source like the cigaretter lighter. I have a constant power source on the radio on my Infiniti. The wire actually was label "constant 12v." I was wondering if I use this power wire would it be a problem. Does the constant 12v drain as much juice as the GEX ACC power 12v? I dont think it does because I thought I hold purpose of the constant 12v was to keep the memory of the setting and not actually power the GEX when its on.. Please advice.. THanks

silentone

Where can we buy a wire harness like that? I like the fact its plug and play.

avelec

For more info please contact us at:

productinquirynow@yahoo.com

Thanks,
Sam.

wonderer

I got my GEX to work today . However, when I switch to Vtr1 to watch DVD, I could see a slight image of my Navigation in the background.. not too bad though but I could see a slight black and white fuzzy image while watching DVD. Looks kind of like static but it is actually the Nav. I was wondering could be be from bad wires used. I am using the shielded sound/alarm wire 22awg from homedepot. Also, my nav screen is not as sharp as without the GEX. I placed my GEX in the trunk and routed the wires to the front.

What Kind of wires are everyone using? I am thinking of trying out CAT 5e wiring to see if it goes away.

Boom, you there? Please help...

silentone

I too need to look for shielded wires, I'm getting my GEX unit sometime today. Will be doing this mod soon. However I wanted to know what people used for wires. I plan to also save myself some bucks and wire up the IR sensor to the front of the car, any recommendations?

Also where did you mount your GEX unit? Did you bolt it down? How does one bolt down under the seat? Does anyone use Velcro? I want to install it but make it easy to remove and keep the whole car looking as stock as possible, w/o drilling all these holes too.

turbox777

Wonderer:

you placed your gex in the trunk yet still routed wires all the way to the front? You mean the navi wires up front? You could just split the navi wires right behind the stock dvd player.

The VTR1 fuzzyness might be from bad wiring or bad shielding. I have currently a very tiny line going up the screen in VTR1 + VTR2 mode due to the closeness of the power + ground wires.

Silentone:

Wires... I believe you can use any wires but some need to be shielded. For instance, the IR sensor and I think thats it. I also took that route too, wiring up the sensor to the front, its easy.

My gex unit was supposed to be velcroed to the bottom of the stock dvd player, but it keeps falling off. So right now, its just laying in my trunk.

Electronic Gurus:

I have a problem. About my line going up on my VTR1+VTR2 (sometimes TV). When I hook up XBOX or my camera, I can see the line moving up over and over like looped.

The thing is though, on navi mode, its always a razor sharp clear signal. Oh, and when I'm on TV, VTR1, VTR2 mode, when I press the navi button (cancel, menu, joystick, any button) there seems to be 5x more interference (even on VTR1 hooked up with xbox) and than the interference goes away.

I thought it was the wires in the trunk, so I touched and tried to separate the power/ground wires in the back and it seemed to be going away. Any input woult be appreciated.

wonderer

Turbo,

I forgot to mention that is on an Infiniti G3 coupe. The nav system is in front.. so i have to wire the GEX from the trunk all the way to the front to the Nav system to get to the RGB cable. Its gotta be somekind of interference from the wires or i need to connect a ground to something. The fuzzy background is like a "ghost" of my Nav display. I just tried the CAT 5 wires today and its the same fuzzy thing still. I moved the GEX up front with almost no extension wires and its still had the same background. .. THanks for the reply..

Anyone else with good suggestions for good wires or knows what is wrong???

wonderer

I got it to work on my Infiniti!!!.. It was the interference and bad wires that I used. It s now crystal clear...
Thanks a million Boom for sharing everything... You are the man!!

silentone

What kind of wires did you end up installing to solve your problem? Was it because you had your power source wires next to the signal wires?

Dvs rice

i finally got mine to work this weekend at Stanman's house and man i have to say i love it, it is really clear for a tv tunner and something for you to do when you are stuck in traffic.

silentone

DVS, where did you mount your diversity antennas? In the rear window?

wonderer

Silentone,

I am not too sure about the power lines. However, I dont think it influenced the signals that much . I routed the video cable on the left side of the car and the power lines on the right side of the car just in case though. I had a lot of room.

Thanks everyone for your ideas.

asiankidd

NOOOOO the website isnt working can someone fix it i was just about to save the pin out for the rgb cable!!! help!!!

jon

asiankidd

oh yeah can we get channel 5 aka wb network in so cal? with the tv tuner?

turbox777

I got it all saved.

silentone

Does anyone have good suggestions where to connect

ILL (orange wire)?

BATT (yellow wire)?

ACC (I assume to turn off an on the unit)?

Do I ground the Green Parking Brake wire? Where do you connect this do you have to connect this?

Thanks!

turbox777

Illumination - just leave it alone

Battery - This is for the constant power, it keeps the gex powered whether your key is in or not, it retains memory settings from previous, such as the fm modulator settings or the last video selected. so if you are using navi and you turn your car off, next time you turn your car on, it will automatically be on navi.

ACC - In my case, hooked it to the center console 12V outlet

parking brake - just ground it

turbox777

I'm having issues with navi interference. When I am watching TV or VTR1 or VTR2 (input 1 or 2) , on a black screen, I can see interference lines. At first I was like wtf, but actually it is the navigation. When I press menu or map hard buttons, the interference changes.

Does anyone know how to get rid of this interference? Should I change wires or get them all shielded. An installer at a store mentioned to me you should put power wires to the right of the car and video wires to the left of the car. I'm confused and I want to get rid of these interference lines.

Thanks

mdx

I just tested my self-made 'wiring-harness' and, voila, after some tweekings, I got it to work. So, thanks for all the information, Boom!

However, I was wondering about the wiring of the NAVI SENSE pin: In your list, the red and green connector, both have the same ILLUMINATION OUTPUT pin. What's the function of this pin? Why did you connect it to NAVI SENSE, and why can't you connect the ILLUM.OUT from the red connector to NAVI SENSE but have to use the output from the green connector?

BTW, I am using the 5V supply from the GEX for both, the IR module and the sync-separator. However, it was necessary to add a .1F capacitor close to the IR module (between +5V and GND).

Manus1980

I have a question. If I unhook the red and black wires from the power source should my navi work as though there was no gex unit. I unhooked the red and black from the battery and still no picture on the screen. I'm haveing trouble getting power to the screen. I know there is power going to the gps, but none to the screen.
Also, where is the best power source for the IR sensor?

silentone

I'm having that same problem myself now with getting power to GEX unit ( I have a no video / black fuzzy navi screen)... except I think I can solve this once I tap the accessory outlets for ACC power and a good source for the BATT lead..

I think MDX has a sensible idea, drive the IR sensor & LM1881 with a .1 uF cap using the 5v Yellow (on the green cable). I want to try that, but first hopefully get my whole setup to work..

songoku

If you get power on GEX but no pic on the screen, make sure to check ground clear wire. It's screen display enable.

I had originally had same problem before I found this solution.




STEVE,

You might want to check your RGB & Composite sync connection first.
If it's not, you need to check your switch or relay(if you're using 4PDT relay) Because that relay is for just power in & out, not for specific TV or video signal. You might have bad relay.

silentone

I installed everything up and now I get a black screen, but i see a faint signal in the background (like there is a navi screen that is ghosted)

Not sure where I went wrong, anyone have any ideas? Maybe i built the circuit wrong?

turbox777

Thanks paul, I'll try that on the weekend. Other than the slight interference, its not too bad.


Silent tone: I had that once I believe. just a ghost of the navi.... did you check your power? Is ACC tapped to 12V? Check your groundings and all power connections.

Also to note, one of my resistors from digikey.com was busted, it did not work, a replacement was used. Your digikey parts might be screwy. =/

silentone

happiness-is.netfirms.com/osd/osd.jpg

(not sure if linking is working right)

I built the circuit above as tested. Can anyone tell me if I soldered a capacitor wrong or built this circuit screwy? Like for the Composite sync input?

I wasn't sure if I should reverse the polarity of the capacitor or not on the Composite Sync input.

silentone

I tapped 12v ACC from the accessory plug for the ACC power. BATT is attached to a constant source. I will have to doublecheck the grounding, but I have tested everyting with a multimeter.

I thought it should still work even if the OSD Interface doesn't.

turbox777

negative that. I believe when my infrared reciever wiring was messed up, the two of the three wires were touching each other accidently, the whole thing shut down. Your OSD needs to be working otherwise everything will not work.

silentone

I'm so frustrated right now with OSD / Infrared box. Its too hard to tell if my LM1881N chip is at fault. Sometimes I get a blank screen / ghosting of Navi image or this time I have been getting static on my screen. When I disconnect power from the GEX unit, the static disappears.

turbox777

mmm... is ure remote sensor all properly wired up? is all power connections good? if not, it will screw up.

silentone

I just built another LM1881N circuit. This time on a breadboard, so I know everything works as designed. However I realized after fiddling around with the 7805 & (Green Connector 5V) line, that the circuit doesn't seem to drive the IR sensor + LM1881N circuit. When I power up I get static lines on the screen.

I decided to isolate the 7805 (draws a little over 1 AMP) to power the IR sensor and then try to tap the 5V Yellow Wire coming from the Green Connector. Now I get is ghosting of a NAVI picture.

Here I discover that I am not even getting 5V from the Yellow wire, but only 1 or 2 mV. Which leads me to think that the GEX is not properly powered up

I connected the ACC leads to the Center Console Accessory Jack and the BATT yellow terms to a constant 12v source on the passenger fuse box rated for 12V 10A.

Reading the specs on the GEX-P7000

Power Source ..... 14.4 VDC (10.8 - 15.1 allowable)
Grounding Setup .... Negative Type
Max Current ..... 2 A

Anyone have any suggestions where to get alternate adequate 14.4 VDC power? Grounding points? I'm thinking power directly from the battery now, but I'm not sure what is the best method to wire this. Has anyone wired directly from the Battery to the trunk? What do I need (relays, 10 gauge wire, inline fuse)? I believe my whole setup draws at most 3 A.

turbox777

I hooked up ACC to center console, constant-on I tapped a power wire hooked up to navi.... not sure what color wire it is.

geninfty

I got ACC from the center console cigarette jack, and 12V from
the stock subamp connector.

Originally I let 7805 power both IR sensor and LM1881, but
I found out that, at least for my case, OSD becomes very
erratic due to the switching noise from 7805. So i now let 7805 only power IR and LM1881 is powered
by the 5V output from GEX.

I suggest you to work on IR first because you need it to play with the setting and you don't really need OSD to get GEX started. Just to check if GEX is powered, I think you can connect the rear video to a TV or camcorder with video in to check if GEX is ever making any video signal-press rear source button to cycle through off and tv....

silentone

Hey genfinity,

You are also in Milpitas. I like to check out your setup sometime. I'm still having problems with my GEX Unit, i'm determined to figure this one out....

Couple of things I discovered today when I was fiddling around with the GEX + power.

I decided to tap directly a wire (15 amp inline fuse) from the battery and wire straight to the trunk. I had the GEX yellow BATT wire attached to this wire. I attached the ACC to the Center Console and the Black Wire to the chassis Ground point located somewhere near the rear tail lamp.

All this and no go.

Then just for experimentation I decided to detach the OSD / IR device (removed the power wires + didn't power with anything) and remove the (from GEX) red ACC + Ground wire. I still left the Yellow wire BATT attached. I saw my navi screen! Grey bad interference, scrolls up and down the navi. However when I remove the yellow BATT wire, I lose the picture.

I'm sure this is all interesting, but I'm hoping to try to check the power wires again, ground points, and make sure my cable is connected all up right. Anyone with any similar experiences, please share.