BC Racing BR Coilovers w/Swift Upgrade
#1
BC Racing BR Coilovers w/Swift Upgrade
Decided to make a thread about the coil-overs I just put on the car, I'm already really happy with them and the ride is better than it was on my Tein SS coil-overs.
Installation of the coil-overs was also easier in the rear, the swift springs have a smaller diameter than the springs that are on my old Tein SS, so once the control arm was removed and the sway bar was disconnected instead of having to sort of shimmy the coil-over in like I did with the Tein's the BC Racing Coil-overs just slide right in without any binding on any of the arms.
Adjustment of the ride height is a bit more difficult with these, since the adjustment is on the bottom. The bottom has to be loosened up, in the front it's not too bad but in the rear you have to remove the bottom mounting bolt on the coil-over and slip the bottom of it out of the bracket in the knuckle so you can adjust it.
It's easier to just remove the bottom mounting bolt, and then support the knuckle with a jack and remove the pre-load on all of the bushings, then just lower the jack and it frees up enough room to adjust the coil-over.
I decided not to get the extreme low option since I was going to be raising my car up. On the Teins here is where I was at roughly:
Front
Driver Passenger
Height: 24 1/4" 24 1/4"
Rear
Height: 25" 25"
Pre-Load Adjusted:
Front: All bushings on LCA
Rear: All bushings on all arms
I adjusted my new coil-overs three times between yesterday and today to get the ride height where I want it. I still need to adjust just the driver's side a little higher another time and then get it aligned. I kept some data as I went along and just thought I'd share it. Here's what I did and where it moved to.
A few notes to try to keep the data straight so you know how I'm measuring.
- Ride height is as measured from the floor, through the center of the wheel to the fender lip.
- Threads is the measurement on the coil-over, from the bottom of the bottom locking nut on pre-load adjustment on the coil-over to the top of the locking nut that is on the bottom of the coil-over. It's the length of the exposed threads on the coil-over.
- Pre-load on the bushings was adjusted to factory specifications, with a jack under the LCA in front to get the weight on the car (1x corner at a time) and under the knuckle on the rear to get the weight on the car.
- Pre-load on my front UCAs was set in accordance with the service manual when I installed my skunk 2 UCAs.
- The spring rates on my swift springs are 120 up front and 60 in the rear.
- I didn't alter the spring pre-load on any of the coil-overs at any point in time. They're set the way they came from BC Racing, the coils were purchased from heeltoe and shipped directly to me from BC Racing.
Here are the measurements:
First Adjustment (Installation)
Front
Driver Passenger
Threads: 1 1/2" 1 1/2"
Height: 23 15/16" 24 1/4" (3/16" Difference)
Rear
Threads: 4 1/8" 4 1/8"
Height: 24 5/16" 24 1/4" (1/16" Difference)
Pre-Load Adjusted:
Front: Only on the coilover mounting bolts
Rear: Only on the coilover mounting bolts & Toe Arm
Second Adjustment
Front
Driver Passenger
Threads: 2 3/4" 2 1/2"
Height: 25 5/16" 25 7/16" (1/4" Difference)
Rear
Threads: 5 15/16" 5 15/16"
Height: 26 5/8" 26 1/4" (3/8" Difference)
Pre-Load Adjusted:
Front: Adjusted on LCA bushings (excludes compliance bushing, I have sphericals)
Rear: Adjusted on all 5 arms (excludes toe adjustment bolt)
Adjustment Change (difference from first-second adjustment):
Front
Driver Passenger
Threads: 1 1/4" 1"
Height: 1 3/8" 1 3/16"
Rear
Threads: 1 13/16" 1 13/16"
Height: 1 5/16" 2"
Third Adjustment
Front
Driver Passenger
Threads: 2 1/4" 2 3/16"
Height: 24 7/8" 25 1/16" (3/8" Difference)
Rear
Threads: 4 6/8" 4 7/8"
Height: 25 1/8" 25 1/16" (1/16" Difference)
Pre-Load Adjusted:
Front: Adjusted on LCA bushings (excludes compliance bushing, I have sphericals)
Rear: Adjusted on all 5 arms (excludes toe adjustment bolt)
Adjustment Change (difference from second-third adjustment):
Front
Driver Passenger
Threads: -1/2" -3/16"
Height: -7/16" -3/8"
Rear
Threads: -1 3/16" -1 1/16"
Height: -1 1/2" -1 3/16"
As a final note, they could've gone lower from my first adjustment when I installed them, they had about 1 1/2" of more adjustment on all four corners that I could've put the coil-overs down. If I had done that the all three locking rings on front would've been against each-other and on the rear the bottom adjustment piece would've been bottomed out against the bottom of the coil-over.
With the swift springs I think there's really no need for the extreme low option if you're looking at these coil-overs.
I'll get some photos of the car later
Installation of the coil-overs was also easier in the rear, the swift springs have a smaller diameter than the springs that are on my old Tein SS, so once the control arm was removed and the sway bar was disconnected instead of having to sort of shimmy the coil-over in like I did with the Tein's the BC Racing Coil-overs just slide right in without any binding on any of the arms.
Adjustment of the ride height is a bit more difficult with these, since the adjustment is on the bottom. The bottom has to be loosened up, in the front it's not too bad but in the rear you have to remove the bottom mounting bolt on the coil-over and slip the bottom of it out of the bracket in the knuckle so you can adjust it.
It's easier to just remove the bottom mounting bolt, and then support the knuckle with a jack and remove the pre-load on all of the bushings, then just lower the jack and it frees up enough room to adjust the coil-over.
I decided not to get the extreme low option since I was going to be raising my car up. On the Teins here is where I was at roughly:
Front
Driver Passenger
Height: 24 1/4" 24 1/4"
Rear
Height: 25" 25"
Pre-Load Adjusted:
Front: All bushings on LCA
Rear: All bushings on all arms
I adjusted my new coil-overs three times between yesterday and today to get the ride height where I want it. I still need to adjust just the driver's side a little higher another time and then get it aligned. I kept some data as I went along and just thought I'd share it. Here's what I did and where it moved to.
A few notes to try to keep the data straight so you know how I'm measuring.
- Ride height is as measured from the floor, through the center of the wheel to the fender lip.
- Threads is the measurement on the coil-over, from the bottom of the bottom locking nut on pre-load adjustment on the coil-over to the top of the locking nut that is on the bottom of the coil-over. It's the length of the exposed threads on the coil-over.
- Pre-load on the bushings was adjusted to factory specifications, with a jack under the LCA in front to get the weight on the car (1x corner at a time) and under the knuckle on the rear to get the weight on the car.
- Pre-load on my front UCAs was set in accordance with the service manual when I installed my skunk 2 UCAs.
- The spring rates on my swift springs are 120 up front and 60 in the rear.
- I didn't alter the spring pre-load on any of the coil-overs at any point in time. They're set the way they came from BC Racing, the coils were purchased from heeltoe and shipped directly to me from BC Racing.
Here are the measurements:
First Adjustment (Installation)
Front
Driver Passenger
Threads: 1 1/2" 1 1/2"
Height: 23 15/16" 24 1/4" (3/16" Difference)
Rear
Threads: 4 1/8" 4 1/8"
Height: 24 5/16" 24 1/4" (1/16" Difference)
Pre-Load Adjusted:
Front: Only on the coilover mounting bolts
Rear: Only on the coilover mounting bolts & Toe Arm
Second Adjustment
Front
Driver Passenger
Threads: 2 3/4" 2 1/2"
Height: 25 5/16" 25 7/16" (1/4" Difference)
Rear
Threads: 5 15/16" 5 15/16"
Height: 26 5/8" 26 1/4" (3/8" Difference)
Pre-Load Adjusted:
Front: Adjusted on LCA bushings (excludes compliance bushing, I have sphericals)
Rear: Adjusted on all 5 arms (excludes toe adjustment bolt)
Adjustment Change (difference from first-second adjustment):
Front
Driver Passenger
Threads: 1 1/4" 1"
Height: 1 3/8" 1 3/16"
Rear
Threads: 1 13/16" 1 13/16"
Height: 1 5/16" 2"
Third Adjustment
Front
Driver Passenger
Threads: 2 1/4" 2 3/16"
Height: 24 7/8" 25 1/16" (3/8" Difference)
Rear
Threads: 4 6/8" 4 7/8"
Height: 25 1/8" 25 1/16" (1/16" Difference)
Pre-Load Adjusted:
Front: Adjusted on LCA bushings (excludes compliance bushing, I have sphericals)
Rear: Adjusted on all 5 arms (excludes toe adjustment bolt)
Adjustment Change (difference from second-third adjustment):
Front
Driver Passenger
Threads: -1/2" -3/16"
Height: -7/16" -3/8"
Rear
Threads: -1 3/16" -1 1/16"
Height: -1 1/2" -1 3/16"
As a final note, they could've gone lower from my first adjustment when I installed them, they had about 1 1/2" of more adjustment on all four corners that I could've put the coil-overs down. If I had done that the all three locking rings on front would've been against each-other and on the rear the bottom adjustment piece would've been bottomed out against the bottom of the coil-over.
With the swift springs I think there's really no need for the extreme low option if you're looking at these coil-overs.
I'll get some photos of the car later
Last edited by mzilvar; 02-09-2014 at 11:52 PM.
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EvilVirus (06-01-2015)
#2
I have been looking at these coils also...trying to decide between these with the Swifts & KW Variant 1, or perhaps the HR Coilovers. Looks like your Spring Rates are 12kg/mm front & 6kg/mm rear.
#3
Racer
iTrader: (2)
I have BCR coils but for some reason whenever you order from heeltoe they have the extreme low option... but if you go to other sites there isn't an option for that. Maybe extreme low is just an upgrade with swift springs? At least you don't have to send your coils back to get them repaired if the shocks are blown. There are always a backorder with ordering new cartridges for some reason. Enjoy the new coils.
#4
I have BCR coils but for some reason whenever you order from heeltoe they have the extreme low option... but if you go to other sites there isn't an option for that. Maybe extreme low is just an upgrade with swift springs? At least you don't have to send your coils back to get them repaired if the shocks are blown. There are always a backorder with ordering new cartridges for some reason. Enjoy the new coils.
I'm not sure what they do to modify them for that option, I'm guessing they shorten the coil-over tube so you can thread the bottom adjustment piece on more without it bottoming out.
I suppose once these start racking up some miles I could just order a replacement cartridge or two and leave them sitting around on a shelf until it's needed.
The wheels definitely feel like they're stuck to the pavement, the feel going over a speed bump slowly is way different I can feel the rear tires as though they're stuck down onto the pavement as they come over a speed bump.
I've currently got the dampening on all 4 corners at 15, leaving the back seat out for a while to play with the adjustment. I put the FLP strut bar in at the same time with these.
One thing I didn't really realize about the FLP bar is that now to remove it I have to remove all of the top hat nuts in order to get it out instead of just the 6 like on the stock bar.
#5
Racer
iTrader: (2)
Yep, same as the Tein SS that I took off the car.
Interesting, so how do you tell if they're the extreme low option?
I'm not sure what they do to modify them for that option, I'm guessing they shorten the coil-over tube so you can thread the bottom adjustment piece on more without it bottoming out.
I suppose once these start racking up some miles I could just order a replacement cartridge or two and leave them sitting around on a shelf until it's needed.
The wheels definitely feel like they're stuck to the pavement, the feel going over a speed bump slowly is way different I can feel the rear tires as though they're stuck down onto the pavement as they come over a speed bump.
I've currently got the dampening on all 4 corners at 15, leaving the back seat out for a while to play with the adjustment. I put the FLP strut bar in at the same time with these.
One thing I didn't really realize about the FLP bar is that now to remove it I have to remove all of the top hat nuts in order to get it out instead of just the 6 like on the stock bar.
Interesting, so how do you tell if they're the extreme low option?
I'm not sure what they do to modify them for that option, I'm guessing they shorten the coil-over tube so you can thread the bottom adjustment piece on more without it bottoming out.
I suppose once these start racking up some miles I could just order a replacement cartridge or two and leave them sitting around on a shelf until it's needed.
The wheels definitely feel like they're stuck to the pavement, the feel going over a speed bump slowly is way different I can feel the rear tires as though they're stuck down onto the pavement as they come over a speed bump.
I've currently got the dampening on all 4 corners at 15, leaving the back seat out for a while to play with the adjustment. I put the FLP strut bar in at the same time with these.
One thing I didn't really realize about the FLP bar is that now to remove it I have to remove all of the top hat nuts in order to get it out instead of just the 6 like on the stock bar.
#6
If you go on IAP or BCR site there isn't an option for extreme low only BR version.... I mean the BCR already go super low standard. I have mine set at 15 also just stock feel with a little stiffness because I don't like the car to be floaty.. maybe in the future I'll upgrade to swift springs. I have the RV-6 strut bar I only have to remove 3 bolts.
Wasn't sure what's being done to them, I didn't order that option though.
I thought about the RV6 but decided on the solid FLP bar, as long as I can still get the valve covers out with it on I'll be good lol.. looks like I won't be removing that bar again anytime soon. Seems like I have it off all of the time when I'm working on it.
#7
Instructor
if you call up bc and place and order they'll ask if you want the extreme low option, they offer it to anyone and everyone, some vendors just don't have it on their sites
I ordered mine a couple days ago, gonna take a week or two before they ship since I got custom rates and the extreme low option
I ordered mine a couple days ago, gonna take a week or two before they ship since I got custom rates and the extreme low option
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#8
if you call up bc and place and order they'll ask if you want the extreme low option, they offer it to anyone and everyone, some vendors just don't have it on their sites
I ordered mine a couple days ago, gonna take a week or two before they ship since I got custom rates and the extreme low option
I ordered mine a couple days ago, gonna take a week or two before they ship since I got custom rates and the extreme low option
What spring rates did you get?
Did you get custom rates on the swift springs or with springs from BC?
#9
Instructor
I got the 12/8 rates, I believe the ones that come on them are 10/6 or something like that, I didn't get the swift springs just the ones that BC offers, for the extreme low option they said they said depending on the application they either shorten the spring height or shorten the length of the cup that the shock body threads into but yeah ill post pics once they come in, btw if anyone else is interested my buddy has a good deal on them, cheaper than any other place I looked, shopaemotoring.com
the same friend has a set on his tsx, the extreme low option lets you drop the car a ridiculous amount. way more than you would ever need to go, he got crazy spring rates something like 14/12, so his is crazy stiff, I didn't want that so I went with 12/8
the same friend has a set on his tsx, the extreme low option lets you drop the car a ridiculous amount. way more than you would ever need to go, he got crazy spring rates something like 14/12, so his is crazy stiff, I didn't want that so I went with 12/8
#10
Instructor
I was just talking to my neighbor about the coilovers I ordered, as soon as I mentioned BC Racing he mentioned a guy on instagram, CCW_Dan, who makes aircup kits for the bc racing coilovers, I checked them out and man it just made me that much more happy about choosing these coilovers, heres what Im talking about! anyone trying to decide which coilover to get, BC Racing is definitely the one to go with!
http://www.flushstance.com/aircups-by-flushstance/
http://www.flushstance.com/aircups-by-flushstance/
Last edited by ej1serge; 02-23-2014 at 10:21 PM.
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HQTL6SPD (02-24-2014)
#11
Instructor
BTW, this upgrade is about $400 for the cupkit, not including the air tank or whatever management you decide to go with, you don't need a complex management system for this
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HQTL6SPD (02-24-2014)
#14
Instructor
I see, can you take a photo of them when they come in? I'm curious if I ended up with the extreme low option I'm not sure what they do to modify them I'm guessing a shorter dampener tube. It seemed like they had a lot of adjustment and I could have gone a lot lower than 24" on all 4 corners.
What spring rates did you get?
Did you get custom rates on the swift springs or with springs from BC?
What spring rates did you get?
Did you get custom rates on the swift springs or with springs from BC?
as promised!
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mzilvar (03-05-2014)
#15
Looks exactly the same as the way mine came, just my springs are a different color.
I didn't order the extreme low option though just swift upgrade, it still has plenty of adjustment to get the car right where I wanted it.
The bottom piece doesn't look any different, so I probably have the extreme low too.
I didn't order the extreme low option though just swift upgrade, it still has plenty of adjustment to get the car right where I wanted it.
The bottom piece doesn't look any different, so I probably have the extreme low too.
Last edited by mzilvar; 03-05-2014 at 03:24 AM.
#17
Here's some pics, I don't have any of just how it sits that well. Car could go a lot lower with these on, but I don't have the clearance due to the ronjon kit.
Don't kill me over my little fitment problem with the grille lol.. I'll be finally finishing my fitment on that this weekend.
Had no choice on the hood pins, I found the hood latch cracking so I put them on so the hood doesn't fly up on the highway.
#19
10th Gear
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Inglewood
Age: 38
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I saw this thread and decided to go with the bc br's too.. right now my tilly is stock.. it was either these or the tein sa... they were on sale for 900 so it was a no brainer, atleast I think so. Cant wait! Hope I chose wisely lol
#20
Racer
#22
I got the 12/8 rates, I believe the ones that come on them are 10/6 or something like that, I didn't get the swift springs just the ones that BC offers, for the extreme low option they said they said depending on the application they either shorten the spring height or shorten the length of the cup that the shock body threads into but yeah ill post pics once they come in, btw if anyone else is interested my buddy has a good deal on them, cheaper than any other place I looked, shopaemotoring.com
the same friend has a set on his tsx, the extreme low option lets you drop the car a ridiculous amount. way more than you would ever need to go, he got crazy spring rates something like 14/12, so his is crazy stiff, I didn't want that so I went with 12/8
the same friend has a set on his tsx, the extreme low option lets you drop the car a ridiculous amount. way more than you would ever need to go, he got crazy spring rates something like 14/12, so his is crazy stiff, I didn't want that so I went with 12/8
#23
Pro
iTrader: (1)
yeah dude, the higher the number the stiffer the spring - most peoples who are stanced are running really high settings - like 20kg for front and rears, if not looking to be super stanced you don't really need a high spring rate, BC's come standard with 12F/6R..and you need a heavier rate in front because of the engine..etc.
I got mines through Alex Kings at tunergoods.com, went with 12F/10R for the spring rates, extreme low option, but passed on the swift springs. Very good kit to go with, no issues at all...
I got mines through Alex Kings at tunergoods.com, went with 12F/10R for the spring rates, extreme low option, but passed on the swift springs. Very good kit to go with, no issues at all...
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Boosejars (06-10-2015)
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