Neejay

iTrader: (3)

I've been all through the "clunking threads" and I was sure it probably was my RR bushings until I went out to lunch. When I push the car via the fender HARD side-to-side, I can hear the same clunk/pop sound and it's coming from around the steering rack, which is more audible from the passenger side. It isn't coming from the front of the car where the RR bushings/bolt is.

The sound happens badly at LOW speeds + lumps in the road, as in foot off brake and gas pedal.

I replaced the endlinks about 2-3 weeks ago with Moog + installed Koni Yellows, but the bottom boot on the passenger side was already ripped already out the box. Sound didn't start happening immediately after I thought it'd take more than a hard push from side-to-side for the sway bar to make noise from busted sway bar bushings.

Cliff notes:
- sound is random, but happens more at low speeds
- sound appears to come from the steering rack area
- I can feel the clunk in the gas pedal and foot rest, as well as the passenger (wife said it)
- new endlinks, but one of the boots were ripped.
- sound happens even when the car is parked and rocked side to side.

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

I would also like to add that the noise doesn't happen on every bump or up/down motion of the car (like a minor dip). I was just in the parking garage with the windows down and it's VERY audible outside the car. Also isn't happening when I turn the steering wheel.

EDIT: And it does NOT make noise when pushing the car up and down.

fsttyms1

Have you inspected the tierods for play? Ball Joints? Jack up the car and see if you have side to side movement with the swaybar itself if so the bushings may need to be replaced.

I had a similar (going by your description) and it was the upper control arm bushing. i couldnt get any play or noise out of it during inspection until i removed the knuckle from it, then i could replicate it.

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

Nothing but visual (which I know is almost pointless, but I didn't see anything visually busted/trashed), but I found if I push up/down on the driver's headlight corner, it makes this sound:

(I promise this isn't a porno lol)

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v4...012_183834.mp4

Still sounded like it was coming from near the sway bar/steering rack. I'll be able to jack it up and wobble stuff tomorrow or Friday.

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

would bad RR bushings make noise randomly? Or would it always happen on braking and accelerating only?

My pop/thud is awful random. I can't link it to any part of my driving.

fsttyms1

any thing could cause it. You need to jack up and support the car and start to look at things. With the car supported then jack up the control arm and see if you can see anything or hear anything. My guess is suspension/control arm.

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

I tried this last night...screw it. When I get a chance, I'll have to take it some where.

I jacked it up, supported it, jacked up each driver side and started yanking on stuff back and forth/up and down. Didn't hear a noise.

I'd assume control arm (not sure upper/lower) because of how random it is.

fsttyms1

Yanking on things unless really bad probably isnt near the force needed to replicate the issue. Most times it needs a prybar
From the sound id say upper control arm or strut top hat bushings.

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

#8 I'm assuming?

Every now and the, my steering wheel turns/gives resistance when braking. It turns to the right if I take my hands off the steering wheel when coming to a stop...sometimes, not all the time.

I'll jack the car up again tonight, jack up the pass. side suspension, and use my pry bar.

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

I jacked it up tonight. I tried wiggling at 12 o'clock, 6, 9+3 and I got nothing. Question though: With the steering wheel locked, should the front wheels still turn? I can turn the wheels back and forth a bit while grabbing at 3/9 o'clock, on both sides. When I turn them, they seem to still be limited, but I get a clank/locking noise when maxing the turning radius each way...hopefully that makes sense.

I got an alignment yesterday, and the front-passenger side is the troublesome corner (where it appears the noise is coming from)...gonna have to take it somewhere for real now. I'm out of ideas.

fsttyms1

there will be a small amount of movement with the wheel locked when you attempt to turn it. The clanking sound, you hear that when wheel is unlocked and you are manually turning the wheel (grabbing at 3/9) car lifted? That sounds normal as without fluid pressure the rack bottoms out against the stop.

Oh and #4 are the bushings to look at.

Disconnect the upper control arm from the knuckle and see if you get play (other than the up and down)

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

I hear the noise when the steering wheel is LOCKED + lifted. I assumed it was just maxing out the radius since it was locked.

I'll buy those bushings and disconnect the upper control arm to check for play as you advised.

Thanks a lot man for the suggestions!

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

In the mean time, here are my upper control arm ball joints with the car on the ground:

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

Both of the upper control arms should be replaced, but the ball joints took a decent amount of strength/force to move...they weren't obviously loose. I can't afford to drop it off to a mechanic and play "guess-n-fix". I'll buy both sides and replace within the next week or two.

And with the noise I'm getting, I don't see how it could be the strut bushings. It sounds like something is binding/giving, almost like a loose bolt is allowing something to flex...it doesn't automatically happen going up/down or over all bumps.

Both sides pretty much looked like this:

zeta

iTrader: (1)

When you replaced the struts and endlinks, did you preload the suspension before final torqueing the related fasteners?

I would revisit and retorque the fasteners involved, especially the endlinks and preload the suspension. I had a similar 'clunk' after replacing struts/Sway bar bushings/Moog endlinks. The suspension was preloaded, and I still somehow did not get the endlink fasteners tight enough and a clunk occurred.

Per the Helms:

6. Install the lower arm in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
>Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when conneting the lower arm to the knuckle.
>First install the suspension components and lightly tighten bolts and nuts, then place a jack under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle weight before fully tightening bolts and nuts to the specified torque values.
>Tighten the castle nut to the to the lower torque spec; then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it.
>Use a new cotter pin on the castle nut.
>Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel.
>Check the front wheel alignment and adjust it if needed.

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

hmm...well, a few things:

- I attached the fork to the bottom of the shock first, then jacked up the control arm to match the through-bolt for the fork...but I had to muscle the bolt through and I may have caused binding/preload on that bushing by doing it this way
- after that, I did torque to spec with the vehicle weight (and didn't tighten the 3 strut nuts until the car was back on the ground)
- I drove it, and was getting a super-squeak. I found that I didn't tighten down the front top strut bolt and they were loose. I had to drive like 30+ miles with them like that before I could get back to my tools to properly torque

EDIT: I just sat in the car, then when I got out of it, I heard the noise, just not as loud as when driving...

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

Problem was my radius rod bushings. I looked through this thread https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/aftermarket-radius-rod-bushings-poll-827945/ and learned a few things.

I used the Moog kit.