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View Poll Results: What transmission fluid to use on the 2004 acura tl
redline racing type-f 21 20.19%
redline d4 35 33.65%
oem atf dw-1 46 44.23%
another brand 8 7.69%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 104. You may not vote on this poll

Which transmission fluid should i use?

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Old 02-25-2012, 02:03 PM   #1
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Which transmission fluid should i use?

Just got a 04 white acura tl with 92xxx miles. I don't know much about the service that the previous owner did. So i decided to do a major service including timing belt/transmission flush/coolant/spark plugs....

I checked the transmission fluid color and it's pretty brown so i'm pretty sure i need to flush my transmission. The thing is i don't know what transmission fluid to use. Should i use the

ATF DW-1
Redline racing type f
redline d4
or another brand?

Please state what brand are you currently using and the milage your car currently has and at what milage did you change the transmission fluid.

I've heard many good stuff about racing type f but did the transmission last?
Or should i stick with the oem new dw-1

Please help
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Old 02-25-2012, 02:29 PM   #2
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^Mixture of Redline D4 and Type F.

http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showt...764322&page=26
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Old 02-25-2012, 10:49 PM   #3
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Don't do a transmission flush, they are not recommended by Honda.
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Old 02-26-2012, 12:13 AM   #4
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I've got an '08 TL base 5AT with 30,000 miles. I did a 3x drain/fill with DW-1 about 700 miles ago. I can't really tell any difference in drivability but at least the original factory ATF is gone.

Also, don't forget to change the brake fluid, the engine air filter and the interior air filter behind the glove compartment.
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:07 AM   #5
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OEM atf dw-1 suck. Go either Redline D4 or a mixture or Redline D4 and Type F
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Old 02-26-2012, 12:11 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdinLA-TL View Post
I've got an '08 TL base 5AT with 30,000 miles. I did a 3x drain/fill with DW-1 about 700 miles ago. I can't really tell any difference in drivability but at least the original factory ATF is gone.

Also, don't forget to change the brake fluid, the engine air filter and the interior air filter behind the glove compartment.
Technically, you still have some of the original ATF in there.
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Old 02-26-2012, 12:17 PM   #7
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I stick with oem, but that's just me.
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Old 02-26-2012, 03:39 PM   #8
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I prefer OEM and went with the DW1 on my TL ('08 w/ 40k) on it. I did notice smoother shifting. The transmission doesn't seem to get hung on up shifts anymore.
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:41 PM   #9
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OEM atf dw-1 suck. Go either Redline D4 or a mixture or Redline D4 and Type F
There is no evidence that the DW-1 sucks. Z-1 is another story. I have had trans failures using Z-1 and I have had trans failures using all Redline Racing type F. I am currently using DW-1 in my current trans and its perfectly fine.
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:12 PM   #10
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I hate these threads. :x
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:23 PM   #11
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There is no evidence that the DW-1 sucks. Z-1 is another story. I have had trans failures using Z-1 and I have had trans failures using all Redline Racing type F. I am currently using DW-1 in my current trans and its perfectly fine.
Your transmission FAILED or just acted up?
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:33 PM   #12
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Your transmission FAILED or just acted up?
He probably had over 65% mixture of redline racing type F fluid.
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:53 PM   #13
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For the auto transmissions, the oem honda fluid is second to none IMO (which is based upon reports of independent testing)
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:55 PM   #14
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I hate these threads. :x
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For the auto transmissions, the oem honda fluid is second to none IMO (which is based upon reports of independent testing)
As in there's nothing worse lol. Any tests I've seen on Z1 shows very early oxidation, too much FM, it first sheers causing it to thin out then oxidizes causing thickening. It's a 10,000 mile fluid at best and even when new it sucks. I've truly never seen a worse fluid and the worst part is they charge a premium price. The jury is still out on DW-1. I quit paying attention to Honda OEM fluids a long time ago.

For me, straight Type F racing fluid. 107,000 miles. Shifts better than the day I bought it brand new. It's had a non recommended fluid in it since before it turned 20,000 miles. Somewhere around 30,000 miles on the racing fluid. It survived track days and Vegas and Phoenix summers along with winters in Flagstaff.

I'm out of here.
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:28 AM   #15
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[PA System] Mr. IHC, please step away from the Reply button. [/PA System]
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:56 AM   #16
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Has searching become that difficult?
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Old 02-27-2012, 01:01 PM   #17
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I've stuck with Honda DW1. I have no real issue with it. Then again....with my commute I can go 30 miles before a gear shifts in my car. I have considered looking at something else, but once I did my switches and 3rd 1x3 my transmission shifts very clean.

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Has searching become that difficult?
With respects to this topic....In a way it has. Everyone has an opinion. Search is kinda cluttered.
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Old 02-27-2012, 01:41 PM   #18
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if you use redline fluid, your car will get stolen and stripped the next day. or so i've heard.
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Old 02-27-2012, 02:07 PM   #19
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the new OEM stuff is good.
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Old 02-27-2012, 02:43 PM   #20
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Your transmission FAILED or just acted up?
Complete failure on both. I do not think the Redline type F had anything to do with the second one failing, it was just a bad unit. It failed within 2K miles. I did not really care for the shifting with the Type F but I am not sure if it was the fluid or just because it was a bad tranny. I did a 3x3 with the type F so it was predominantly type F
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Old 02-27-2012, 02:49 PM   #21
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I use amsoil. When i first switched i noticed a huge difference in shifting. I also had a delay when slowly accelerating between 2 and 3rd gear and it took car of that. Its not too expensive either right around $11-13 a quart
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Old 02-27-2012, 03:17 PM   #22
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I use amsoil. When i first switched i noticed a huge difference in shifting. I also had a delay when slowly accelerating between 2 and 3rd gear and it took car of that. Its not too expensive either right around $11-13 a quart
This what you using?

http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?code=ATFQT-EA

I've read some good comments about the Amsoil.
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Old 02-27-2012, 03:20 PM   #23
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I have an 04 with 72K miles and was having "stuttering", like running over rumple strips. I first went with a 3x3 using Redline F. I experienced some "flaring". I then did a 1x3 using a mixture of 1-F and 2-D4. That was 5000 miles ago. No problems since the last service. Smooth as can be!!

Last edited by Indy04TL; 02-27-2012 at 03:35 PM. Reason: Bad grammer
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Old 02-27-2012, 03:26 PM   #24
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I have an 04 with 72K miles and was having "stuttering", like running over rumple strips. I first went with a 3x3 using Redline F. I experienced some "flaring". I then did did a 1x3 using a mixture of 1-F and 2 D4. That was 5000 miles ago. No problems since the last service. Smooth as can be!!
I've read this before. Scares the crap out of me. I've not noticed either stuttering or flaring with the Honda fluid. The only issue I have seem to have more to do with the brake logic feature than the actual shifting. But I am considering trying Amsoil or Redline to see if it makes that shift cleaner.
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Old 02-27-2012, 04:09 PM   #25
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I'm likely going with the Redline D4 soon. And pressure switches.


b/c 5-star Transmissions in Amarillo, TX


SUUUUUUUUCKS
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Old 02-27-2012, 04:15 PM   #26
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just did mine a 2 weeks ago with Honda oem dw-1 a 3x3 drain and refill. the transmission is better in the cold and does shift a little smoother. no complaints.
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:49 PM   #27
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This what you using?

http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?code=ATFQT-EA

I've read some good comments about the Amsoil.
Yup that's it
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:49 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by EdinLA-TL View Post
I've got an '08 TL base 5AT with 30,000 miles. I did a 3x drain/fill with DW-1 about 700 miles ago. I can't really tell any difference in drivability but at least the original factory ATF is gone.

Also, don't forget to change the brake fluid, the engine air filter and the interior air filter behind the glove compartment.
you would have to do it more like 7 times before you get close to removing all the old fluid.
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:57 PM   #29
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you would have to do it more like 7 times before you get close to removing all the old fluid.
A 3x3 gets a pretty good percentage of the old fluid out and I think that's what he means. That's why most people have settled on a flush as being 3 drain and fills. But technically you will never get all of the fluid out.
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:15 PM   #30
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A 3x3 gets a pretty good percentage of the old fluid out and I think that's what he means. That's why most people have settled on a flush as being 3 drain and fills. But technically you will never get all of the fluid out.
the "3x3" method is only a little over half way changed.
Because the system holds around 9 quarts, and you can only change 3 quarts at a time.

That's only 1/3 of an attempt to change it each time you do it. So doing 1/3 and mixing, and then 1/3 again and then mixing it all together.. You are right, 10 times and you can reach 95%, but cost is high for redline. Better off paying someone to do it that has the tools.

This is partially also why redline recommends D4.. But that is only if you do a complete flush. If you do the 3x3 partial flush, you can go up to Racing fluid and mix it. But we still have some of the old stuff in there. I did the 3x3 and the net result is ... eh.. whatever.. The immediate change was nice but then the computer relearned with the newer fluid, which was still good for transmission longevity, but the firmness and quickness will subside once again.
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:18 PM   #31
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I ended up using Redline D4. Will let you guys know the difference soon.
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:30 PM   #32
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Yup that's it
Thanks.
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:57 PM   #33
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the "3x3" method is only a little over half way changed.
Because the system holds around 9 quarts, and you can only change 3 quarts at a time.

That's only 1/3 of an attempt to change it each time you do it. So doing 1/3 and mixing, and then 1/3 again and then mixing it all together.. You are right, 10 times and you can reach 95%, but cost is high for redline. Better off paying someone to do it that has the tools.

This is partially also why redline recommends D4.. But that is only if you do a complete flush. If you do the 3x3 partial flush, you can go up to Racing fluid and mix it. But we still have some of the old stuff in there. I did the 3x3 and the net result is ... eh.. whatever.. The immediate change was nice but then the computer relearned with the newer fluid, which was still good for transmission longevity, but the firmness and quickness will subside once again.
There is not 9 qts in the TL, it is more like 7.3qts.
No need in speculating, here are the percentage calculations courtesy of Inaccurate:

Heres the drain/fill percentage chart
1=39.5%
2=63.4%
3=77.8%
4=86.6%
5=91.9%
6=95.1%
7=97.0%
8=98.2%
9=98.9%
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:33 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by hleapha View Post
There is not 9 qts in the TL, it is more like 7.3qts.
No need in speculating, here are the percentage calculations courtesy of Inaccurate:

Heres the drain/fill percentage chart
1=39.5%
2=63.4%
3=77.8%
4=86.6%
5=91.9%
6=95.1%
7=97.0%
8=98.2%
9=98.9%
Before you spend too much time here, this guy Chad is a troll. I wouldn't waste too much time on him, he will argue no matter what you say, facts or not. Just thought I would mention that, it took me a while to figure out.
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:58 PM   #35
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The capacity is 7.4 but the torque converter holds a quart or so. So thats 8.4 quarts.. Thats why the mechanic told me 9. All that fluid is mixed together. So you have to count it. It's like counting the oil in the oil filter. Gotta do it. So anyway, if "inaccurate" used 7.4 quarts in his calculations, then 39% for the first number could be lower. So, I'll have to dig up the formula from school. (someday).

btw, IHC is mad because I differ in opinion on IROC's than he does. So, I'm a "troll". People are strange. If you dont allow them to get to know you, then they think you are trolling. thats stupid. This forum is about cars. For me, its not about making friends.. Especially since we all live in other states. So, how can anyon eknow if you are a troll? I'm not green or fat or have a long nose like an ugly troll... In fact, haha IHC, you resemble one more than I do based on the physical description of a troll. Arent you bigger than me? haha

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Old 02-27-2012, 11:19 PM   #36
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The capacity is 7.4 but the torque converter holds a quart or so. So thats 8.4 quarts.. Thats why the mechanic told me 9. All that fluid is mixed together. So you have to count it. It's like counting the oil in the oil filter. Gotta do it. So anyway, if "inaccurate" used 7.4 quarts in his calculations, then 39% for the first number could be lower. So, I'll have to dig up the formula from school. (someday).

btw, IHC is mad because I differ in opinion on IROC's than he does. So, I'm a "troll". People are strange. If you dont allow them to get to know you, then they think you are trolling. thats stupid. This forum is about cars. For me, its not about making friends.. Especially since we all live in other states. So, how can anyon eknow if you are a troll? I'm not green or fat or have a long nose like an ugly troll... In fact, haha IHC, you resemble one more than I do based on the physical description of a troll. Arent you bigger than me? haha

I would hope every male is bigger than your 140lbs (counting the gay belt you wear).

Transmission capacity includes torque convertor, sump, and valvebody. The torque convertor holds close to 4 quarts, not one quart.

See, there I go again feeding the troll.

PS, don't compare yourself to Inaccurate.
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Old 02-27-2012, 11:27 PM   #37
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I have done the " 3x3 " over 3 weeks. Every Saturday, when i was free. When I drain from the tranny i always get 3.5 quarts out. I refill back with 2.5 quarts of Redline D4 and 1 quart of Redline Type F. Also did the pressure switches. I'v driven about 2 miles so far. No issues. Shifts are better and the oil now seems to stay red for along time.
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Old 02-28-2012, 12:36 AM   #38
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this thread is degrading to the 5th grade level.
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Old 02-28-2012, 08:59 AM   #39
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OP just use the OEM one, I know it suck compare to other Redline ATF products but I still have warranty from Acura and I don't want Acura BITCH if something happen to my trany. I would get the 1x3 every time I do oil change so it will be fresh. IMO
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:53 PM   #40
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Ok. I just got my transmission 3x3 done. OMG there's a big difference. The shift are so smooth that i barely can feel it. Car seems to have more power and speed. Lucky i made the right choice choosing the ATF D4 Redline over the suck oem atf-dw1. If you're out of warranty, i would recommend you to switch to redline. Plus my gas vibrating at 1800 rpm is somehow gone. I barely can hear the engine sound now.
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