The RR Journals: ATF drain and refill 3G Garage #C-012
09-19-2010, 11:38 PM
#122
Safety Car
09-21-2010, 01:15 PM
#123
09-21-2010, 02:42 PM
#124
Safety Car
^ Funny thing is that the filler cap will still pop every time you loosen it. I have removed mine approx 22 times during the past 5 years. The filler cap still pops each time. As a side note, I always use a torque wrench to tighten the filler cap to 33 ft/lbs.
09-29-2010, 01:32 PM
#125
Intermediate
Join Date: Oct 2008
Age: 41
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Amsoil ATF is by far the best ATF I have ever used in a Honda/Acura vehicle. My wife's MDX has 160K with original trans and Amsoil ATF and we have had ZERO issues with it. Shifts perfect smooth and we get great mileage. Just an FYI for people worried about using Amsoil.
Don't even bother with Z-1
And this is coming from a person who believes Honda makes the best product in the world :P
Don't even bother with Z-1
And this is coming from a person who believes Honda makes the best product in the world :P
10-03-2010, 07:55 PM
#126
Intermediate
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Petersburg, VA
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10-04-2010, 11:20 AM
#127
Instructor
Drain it out into a clean pan and if it does'nt look too bad do a 1X3 and see how it feels. If it nasty pour it right back in and drive it till it blows
10-07-2010, 06:22 PM
#128
Intermediate
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Petersburg, VA
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Not true, many have done it. Acura recomends doing it at 60K. Now if it was 140K and never changed then I might be a little skeptical. It's like "damed if you do, damed if you don't".
Drain it out into a clean pan and if it does'nt look too bad do a 1X3 and see how it feels. If it nasty pour it right back in and drive it till it blows
Drain it out into a clean pan and if it does'nt look too bad do a 1X3 and see how it feels. If it nasty pour it right back in and drive it till it blows
11-10-2010, 05:19 PM
#129
3rd Gear
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: CHICAGO, IL
Age: 42
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Hi everybody, i wanted to thank you for posting step by step instructions. I have a 2004 Acura TL (5AT) with 90,000 miles. I'm thinking of changing trans. fluid on my own. What if you do 2x3 drain and fill using a cheap Z1 product and 1x3 or 2x3 with amsoil atf... to save some money. Any risks? Anyone tried?
11-10-2010, 05:33 PM
#130
Team Owner
Hi everybody, i wanted to thank you for posting step by step instructions. I have a 2004 Acura TL (5AT) with 90,000 miles. I'm thinking of changing trans. fluid on my own. What if you do 2x3 drain and fill using a cheap Z1 product and 1x3 or 2x3 with amsoil atf... to save some money. Any risks? Anyone tried?
If you don't have the money, that's ok but you're extending the life of the trans by a lot using the Redline racing or Amsoil racing fluid. Pay a little more now to avoid having to rebuild the trans.
If you do decide to go the cheaper route, do a 2x3 with a standard DexIII fluid which is cheaper and better than Z1 and do the last one with Redline or Amsoil RACING non FM fluid (Type F).
11-10-2010, 05:34 PM
#131
Team Owner
The chances of it hurting the trans are slim to none. At that mileage it won't hurt to do a 1x3, drive it around for a week and then do the rest but not totally necessary.
11-11-2010, 12:14 PM
#132
3rd Gear
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: CHICAGO, IL
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It's better than nothing but Z1 isn't much cheaper than Amsoil or Redline.
If you don't have the money, that's ok but you're extending the life of the trans by a lot using the Redline racing or Amsoil racing fluid. Pay a little more now to avoid having to rebuild the trans.
If you do decide to go the cheaper route, do a 2x3 with a standard DexIII fluid which is cheaper and better than Z1 and do the last one with Redline or Amsoil RACING non FM fluid (Type F).
If you don't have the money, that's ok but you're extending the life of the trans by a lot using the Redline racing or Amsoil racing fluid. Pay a little more now to avoid having to rebuild the trans.
If you do decide to go the cheaper route, do a 2x3 with a standard DexIII fluid which is cheaper and better than Z1 and do the last one with Redline or Amsoil RACING non FM fluid (Type F).
Is that what you recommend http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1...part-a100.html instead of a Z1?
Thanks in advance
01-01-2011, 07:15 PM
#134
I'm posting this comment, with a picture, of the fill port on my 2004 auto TL because other members might not have an obvious bolt, labeled ATF covering the fill port on their transmissions either.
At first glance I couldn't figure out what was preventing me from finding the ATF stamped fill bolt, but after looking at some diagrams I realized it was because my auto transmission didn't have one. Instead it has a series of pipes and tubes that run from the external filter into the fill port.
https://acurazine.com/forums/picture...ictureid=38167
In this picture I highlighted with blue where the fill port is at, which is located in the same place as seen in this DIY. The set of tubes and pipes I highlighted in red. There's a metal piece that's used to secure the tube into the fill port which is then bolted into place next to the fill port, which I highlighted in green.
I drained my transmission from the usual place but in order to fill it I had to remove the side bolt first and then the tubing, which is securely connected to the metal piece. There's about an inch of solid pipe that hangs down inside the fill port. It's easily removed by pulling it straight up and out of the fill port. Since the metal piece is kinda long it was necessary to push other engine tubes out of it's way in order to make room when pulling the tube out of the fill port. The tube did leak trans fluid so I stuffed a clean paper towel under it and I pushed it off to the side, wedging it under some other tubes to keep it in place, in order to make room for the funnel.
If you want to keep your engine bay clean than this next part is important! BEFORE turning the car on and sliding through your gears in order to check your fluid level, make sure you put the tube back into the fill port or you will have a mess to clean up. This is a none issue for the TL's that don't have this external tubing but for those that are like mine be warned.
At first glance I couldn't figure out what was preventing me from finding the ATF stamped fill bolt, but after looking at some diagrams I realized it was because my auto transmission didn't have one. Instead it has a series of pipes and tubes that run from the external filter into the fill port.
https://acurazine.com/forums/picture...ictureid=38167
In this picture I highlighted with blue where the fill port is at, which is located in the same place as seen in this DIY. The set of tubes and pipes I highlighted in red. There's a metal piece that's used to secure the tube into the fill port which is then bolted into place next to the fill port, which I highlighted in green.
I drained my transmission from the usual place but in order to fill it I had to remove the side bolt first and then the tubing, which is securely connected to the metal piece. There's about an inch of solid pipe that hangs down inside the fill port. It's easily removed by pulling it straight up and out of the fill port. Since the metal piece is kinda long it was necessary to push other engine tubes out of it's way in order to make room when pulling the tube out of the fill port. The tube did leak trans fluid so I stuffed a clean paper towel under it and I pushed it off to the side, wedging it under some other tubes to keep it in place, in order to make room for the funnel.
If you want to keep your engine bay clean than this next part is important! BEFORE turning the car on and sliding through your gears in order to check your fluid level, make sure you put the tube back into the fill port or you will have a mess to clean up. This is a none issue for the TL's that don't have this external tubing but for those that are like mine be warned.
Last edited by Esper.ice; 01-01-2011 at 07:23 PM.
01-17-2011, 10:32 AM
#135
Instructor
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Lower Saucon, PA
Age: 49
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NOTE:
Do you have a 04 TL and you are driving yourself crazy looking for the ATF Filler bolt? Fear not!
Early 2004 Acura TL's have the ATF Oil Jet Kit installed in place of the ATF filler bolt. The filler bolt will have a plastic tube coming out of it then bends 90 degrees to a flexible hose. This is why you cannot find it.
If you don't want to mess with the Oil Jet Kit Bolt then I recommend you refill your ATF through the ATF dipstick hole near the battery. Yes, it will take a long time.
Do you have a 04 TL and you are driving yourself crazy looking for the ATF Filler bolt? Fear not!
Early 2004 Acura TL's have the ATF Oil Jet Kit installed in place of the ATF filler bolt. The filler bolt will have a plastic tube coming out of it then bends 90 degrees to a flexible hose. This is why you cannot find it.
If you don't want to mess with the Oil Jet Kit Bolt then I recommend you refill your ATF through the ATF dipstick hole near the battery. Yes, it will take a long time.
04-26-2011, 03:33 PM
#136
Advanced
AT Trans Fluid Change - Feedback
Many many thanks to the AZine community for the awesome information and posts on this topic. I changed my trans fluid last week, and it went pretty smooth.
Observations:
1) It REALLY is as easy or easier than changing the oil. I was intimidated at first because I had not done this before, but the process was pretty smooth.
2) The biggest pain in the butt about the whole process was removing and putting back those little plastic clips that hold the plastic undercarriage shield to the car. They don't come off very easily, and are prone to breaking. It would be a good idea to have some spares on hand.
3) My car is an '06 with 91,800 miles. This was the first time that the maintenance minder said it was time to change the trans fluid. While my fluid was a little black and there were SOME metal shavings on the drain plug magnet, things weren't too bad.
4) Overall, there was no noticeable difference in shift smoothness, EXCEPT it seemed slightly more smooth between 2nd and 3rd gears.
Tips:
1) I don't have a garage or much storage space so I do not have jack stands. So I just drove my TL up onto the ramps I use for oil changes, and this seemed to work just fine. I was able to drain over 3 quarts out each time. I was worried because a number of posts really emphasize raising the whole car up on 4 jack stands and keeping it level. But things seemed to work just fine on ramps.
2) Filling through the dipstick hole is MUCH easier. (thanks to earlier posts about using clear 3/8" tubing from Lowe's.) I used a clean funnel that you can get from Wal Mart or Autozone, along with 3/8" tubing from Lowe's. This was easy, clean, and fast. I REALLY recommend it.
Observations:
1) It REALLY is as easy or easier than changing the oil. I was intimidated at first because I had not done this before, but the process was pretty smooth.
2) The biggest pain in the butt about the whole process was removing and putting back those little plastic clips that hold the plastic undercarriage shield to the car. They don't come off very easily, and are prone to breaking. It would be a good idea to have some spares on hand.
3) My car is an '06 with 91,800 miles. This was the first time that the maintenance minder said it was time to change the trans fluid. While my fluid was a little black and there were SOME metal shavings on the drain plug magnet, things weren't too bad.
4) Overall, there was no noticeable difference in shift smoothness, EXCEPT it seemed slightly more smooth between 2nd and 3rd gears.
Tips:
1) I don't have a garage or much storage space so I do not have jack stands. So I just drove my TL up onto the ramps I use for oil changes, and this seemed to work just fine. I was able to drain over 3 quarts out each time. I was worried because a number of posts really emphasize raising the whole car up on 4 jack stands and keeping it level. But things seemed to work just fine on ramps.
2) Filling through the dipstick hole is MUCH easier. (thanks to earlier posts about using clear 3/8" tubing from Lowe's.) I used a clean funnel that you can get from Wal Mart or Autozone, along with 3/8" tubing from Lowe's. This was easy, clean, and fast. I REALLY recommend it.
06-11-2011, 02:25 PM
#140
Cruisin'
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: NJ
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I just did a 3x3 last week and here are my observations. After the last fill, I actually had to add another .5qt to reach the mid point on the dipstick. Before adding it, the line was about 1/8th below the "low" mark when checked after the engine reached its temp and waited about a minute befor checking. Also, it seemes that I gained 2 mph according to the display. I used to get 25 mph before and now getting 27 mph, same driving. I don't know if it was the fluid change but I'm happy about it.
06-24-2011, 10:29 PM
#141
4th Gear
Join Date: May 2011
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Did my first drain and refill tonight (will do the rest in a week or so, because I have an 05 with 110k). I just bought the car last month, so I am doing what I can to keep it running for many years. I already replaced the 3rd/4th pressure switches.
Process was pretty easy, just need the right tools. The car shifts better already (maybe it's just my head). Can't wait to see what it feels like after 2 more drains.
Oh yeah, check out this picture I took of my drain bolt! Talk about build up. Glad I did this, so I could clean all the debris off... but it makes me nervous at the same time.
I just hope my tranny will keep running strong.
Process was pretty easy, just need the right tools. The car shifts better already (maybe it's just my head). Can't wait to see what it feels like after 2 more drains.
Oh yeah, check out this picture I took of my drain bolt! Talk about build up. Glad I did this, so I could clean all the debris off... but it makes me nervous at the same time.
I just hope my tranny will keep running strong.
08-13-2011, 07:31 PM
#142
Team Owner
iTrader: (4)
^^^^
That's a bit more crud that mine. I think if you have black powdery residue then you are fine. If you have silver metal slivers then not so good.
I did mine today. Second time since I got the car. I am slowly getting rid of the ATF-Z1 fluid that was in the car. I am sticking with the Honda recommended fluid. I drained out 3.5 quarts. I did not have 2 sets of jack stands so I lifted the back on Rhino ramps and the fronts on jack stands.
Up shifts are very clean. If I floor it the transmission is extremely responsive and clean. I still have a fairly harsh downshift when I am cruising to a stop. I have the 3rd and 4th switches and I will replace those soon. Acura said that it reacts normally. I asked.
Recommendations for anyone doing this for the first time....ONE....have a stand to raise the container you are pouring the fluid into. That will prevent splashing. I did not and had a lot to clean off. Luckily I always use cardboard on the floor when I change any fluids. TWO....Buy more than 3 qts at a time just incase you need more than 3.
That's a bit more crud that mine. I think if you have black powdery residue then you are fine. If you have silver metal slivers then not so good.
I did mine today. Second time since I got the car. I am slowly getting rid of the ATF-Z1 fluid that was in the car. I am sticking with the Honda recommended fluid. I drained out 3.5 quarts. I did not have 2 sets of jack stands so I lifted the back on Rhino ramps and the fronts on jack stands.
Up shifts are very clean. If I floor it the transmission is extremely responsive and clean. I still have a fairly harsh downshift when I am cruising to a stop. I have the 3rd and 4th switches and I will replace those soon. Acura said that it reacts normally. I asked.
Recommendations for anyone doing this for the first time....ONE....have a stand to raise the container you are pouring the fluid into. That will prevent splashing. I did not and had a lot to clean off. Luckily I always use cardboard on the floor when I change any fluids. TWO....Buy more than 3 qts at a time just incase you need more than 3.
10-26-2011, 12:16 PM
#143
Vegas Bum
First off, thanks to all for posting on this easy to do tranny work, it has been invaluable for maintance on my 2006 TL (presently @ 120,000 km)...
I started my 3x3 ATF flush last week and immediately noticed a significant improvement in shifting after only the first flush, I plan on doing step 2 of the 3x3 flush tomorrow and then then step 3 next week.
I am excited for Step 3 because after browsing the various threads on AZINE, I decided to order replacement parts to undertake the 3rd/4th pressure switch and tranny filter replacement.
The only thing I had to do was compile a list of parts to order so if you are looking to do this work, see below for a complete list of required parts...I placed my order with www.AcuraOEMparts.com today. The only other thing to note is that I destroyed the bolts and plastic clips while removing the tranny splash guard...I keep reading how people swing this guard out of the way but I had some trouble with it so, if you are anything like me (lacking patience and finesse) then I highly recommend you include these items in your order:
28600-RAY-003
SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS)
1 @ $35.39/ea
28610-RAY-003
SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS)
1 @ $35.39/ea
90148-SEP-000
BOLT, SHOULDER
1 @ $0.39/ea
90441-PK4-000
WASHER, SEALING (24MM)
1 @ $3.14/ea
90471-PW7-A00
GASKET (10MM)
2 @ $1.97/ea
90471-PX4-000
WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (18MM)
1 @ $1.56/ea
91301-RAY-004
O-RING (48.5X2.95) (ARAI)
1 @ $3.83/ea
91302-RAY-003
FILTER, GASKET
1 @ $2.66/ea
91503-SZ3-003
CLIP A, BUMPER
6 @ $2.40
93404-06020-04
BOLT-WASHER (6X20)
1 @ $0.60/ea
94109-12000
WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (12MM)
2 @ $0.40/ea
94109-14000
WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (14MM)
1 @ $0.25/ea
...almost forgot: 9L of Honda ATF-DW-1 @ 10.98/L
I started my 3x3 ATF flush last week and immediately noticed a significant improvement in shifting after only the first flush, I plan on doing step 2 of the 3x3 flush tomorrow and then then step 3 next week.
I am excited for Step 3 because after browsing the various threads on AZINE, I decided to order replacement parts to undertake the 3rd/4th pressure switch and tranny filter replacement.
The only thing I had to do was compile a list of parts to order so if you are looking to do this work, see below for a complete list of required parts...I placed my order with www.AcuraOEMparts.com today. The only other thing to note is that I destroyed the bolts and plastic clips while removing the tranny splash guard...I keep reading how people swing this guard out of the way but I had some trouble with it so, if you are anything like me (lacking patience and finesse) then I highly recommend you include these items in your order:
28600-RAY-003
SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS)
1 @ $35.39/ea
28610-RAY-003
SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS)
1 @ $35.39/ea
90148-SEP-000
BOLT, SHOULDER
1 @ $0.39/ea
90441-PK4-000
WASHER, SEALING (24MM)
1 @ $3.14/ea
90471-PW7-A00
GASKET (10MM)
2 @ $1.97/ea
90471-PX4-000
WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (18MM)
1 @ $1.56/ea
91301-RAY-004
O-RING (48.5X2.95) (ARAI)
1 @ $3.83/ea
91302-RAY-003
FILTER, GASKET
1 @ $2.66/ea
91503-SZ3-003
CLIP A, BUMPER
6 @ $2.40
93404-06020-04
BOLT-WASHER (6X20)
1 @ $0.60/ea
94109-12000
WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (12MM)
2 @ $0.40/ea
94109-14000
WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (14MM)
1 @ $0.25/ea
...almost forgot: 9L of Honda ATF-DW-1 @ 10.98/L
Last edited by JBONN; 10-26-2011 at 12:21 PM.
The following users liked this post:
DesertMistTL (01-18-2016)
10-26-2011, 02:31 PM
#144
Hi, thank you for a quick reply. Are you reffering to "Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid" as i found on their web or Amsoil racing non FM fluid (Type F) is different one.
Is that what you recommend http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1...part-a100.html instead of a Z1?
Thanks in advance
Is that what you recommend http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1...part-a100.html instead of a Z1?
Thanks in advance
Some people recommend type f but amsoil's website offers you the multi vehicle and that is what I ordered. I just want to make sure that this is the good stuff and that other people haven't had any problems with it.
10-26-2011, 03:14 PM
#145
Safety Car
Both the Amsoil and Redline brands are miles ahead of all other ATF brands. However, Redline is a probably notch above Amsoil because it is believed Redline uses a higher grade of base stock than Amsoil.
AMSOIL Synthetic Transmission Fluid VS Redline D4 ATF (click here)
AMSOIL Synthetic Transmission Fluid VS Redline D4 ATF (click here)
12-27-2011, 06:22 PM
#146
Just did mine today 1x3. Will do it again in a couple of months, during my next oil change. Used Honda DW 1 fluid. Could not open the fill bolt, so used a tube into the dipstick method.
Thanks for the write-up.
Thanks for the write-up.
12-27-2011, 09:28 PM
#148
Don't have one. Used a torque wrench and a metal pipe and put alot of pressure on it. My socket actually started to bend. So I decided to stop before any damage occurred. The dipstick method worked but was painfully slow.
12-28-2011, 10:36 AM
#149
Intermediate
First off, thanks to all for posting on this easy to do tranny work, it has been invaluable for maintance on my 2006 TL (presently @ 120,000 km)...
I started my 3x3 ATF flush last week and immediately noticed a significant improvement in shifting after only the first flush, I plan on doing step 2 of the 3x3 flush tomorrow and then then step 3 next week.
I am excited for Step 3 because after browsing the various threads on AZINE, I decided to order replacement parts to undertake the 3rd/4th pressure switch and tranny filter replacement.
The only thing I had to do was compile a list of parts to order so if you are looking to do this work, see below for a complete list of required parts...I placed my order with www.AcuraOEMparts.com today. The only other thing to note is that I destroyed the bolts and plastic clips while removing the tranny splash guard...I keep reading how people swing this guard out of the way but I had some trouble with it so, if you are anything like me (lacking patience and finesse) then I highly recommend you include these items in your order:
28600-RAY-003
SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS)
1 @ $35.39/ea
28610-RAY-003
SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS)
1 @ $35.39/ea
90148-SEP-000
BOLT, SHOULDER
1 @ $0.39/ea
90441-PK4-000
WASHER, SEALING (24MM)
1 @ $3.14/ea
90471-PW7-A00
GASKET (10MM)
2 @ $1.97/ea
90471-PX4-000
WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (18MM)
1 @ $1.56/ea
91301-RAY-004
O-RING (48.5X2.95) (ARAI)
1 @ $3.83/ea
91302-RAY-003
FILTER, GASKET
1 @ $2.66/ea
91503-SZ3-003
CLIP A, BUMPER
6 @ $2.40
93404-06020-04
BOLT-WASHER (6X20)
1 @ $0.60/ea
94109-12000
WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (12MM)
2 @ $0.40/ea
94109-14000
WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (14MM)
1 @ $0.25/ea
...almost forgot: 9L of Honda ATF-DW-1 @ 10.98/L
I started my 3x3 ATF flush last week and immediately noticed a significant improvement in shifting after only the first flush, I plan on doing step 2 of the 3x3 flush tomorrow and then then step 3 next week.
I am excited for Step 3 because after browsing the various threads on AZINE, I decided to order replacement parts to undertake the 3rd/4th pressure switch and tranny filter replacement.
The only thing I had to do was compile a list of parts to order so if you are looking to do this work, see below for a complete list of required parts...I placed my order with www.AcuraOEMparts.com today. The only other thing to note is that I destroyed the bolts and plastic clips while removing the tranny splash guard...I keep reading how people swing this guard out of the way but I had some trouble with it so, if you are anything like me (lacking patience and finesse) then I highly recommend you include these items in your order:
28600-RAY-003
SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS)
1 @ $35.39/ea
28610-RAY-003
SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS)
1 @ $35.39/ea
90148-SEP-000
BOLT, SHOULDER
1 @ $0.39/ea
90441-PK4-000
WASHER, SEALING (24MM)
1 @ $3.14/ea
90471-PW7-A00
GASKET (10MM)
2 @ $1.97/ea
90471-PX4-000
WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (18MM)
1 @ $1.56/ea
91301-RAY-004
O-RING (48.5X2.95) (ARAI)
1 @ $3.83/ea
91302-RAY-003
FILTER, GASKET
1 @ $2.66/ea
91503-SZ3-003
CLIP A, BUMPER
6 @ $2.40
93404-06020-04
BOLT-WASHER (6X20)
1 @ $0.60/ea
94109-12000
WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (12MM)
2 @ $0.40/ea
94109-14000
WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (14MM)
1 @ $0.25/ea
...almost forgot: 9L of Honda ATF-DW-1 @ 10.98/L
25450-RAY-003
1 @ $12.53
The total of the list above with the addition of the transmission filter was:
Subtotal:$114.88
Shipping Charge [Shipping Charge may vary with package size / weight]: $8.04
Handling Charge:$3.95
Sales Tax:$0.00
Total Order : $126.87
I found the DW-1 trans fluid at my local Acura of Baton Rouge for $8.23/quart.
My transmission has 122k miles. I plan to do a 1X3 just to see what happens and I may continue to the 2X3 and 3X3.
BTW, Acura of Baton Rouge wanted $79.99 each for the pressure sensors! I told the parts guy that I can get them online for much cheaper and he said the best price he could do was like $48 each. Much cheaper to buy them from AcuraOEMparts.com
12-31-2011, 03:16 PM
#151
Extra Large Member
In the first post, Adm Ron A posted on 2/1/08 a link to Acura's guide on how to do the flush. The link he posted in no longer valid, but here is another link:
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/p0420/B080100.pdf
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/p0420/B080100.pdf
02-28-2012, 06:43 PM
#152
Did a 1x3 today wither Redline Racing ATF on my '08 with 60k miles and after driving for a bit with the new fluid my hard shifting P-D, P-R, 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 shifts were much smoother. Park to Reverse was very notchy before and there was even a half-second lag which is all but gone. Pretty impressive after only the first time although I was able to squeeze out 4 quarts of old ATF. Looking forward to two more soon. Thanks to the OP and all AZ members for all your help!
04-21-2012, 08:55 AM
#154
Ak Ting Up
Just Switched to Redline D4 ATF
Just did a 3X3 with Redline D4 ATF. I didn't notice any shift difference. Maybe I wont since I was running Mobil 1 ATF. I switched because I could not find the Mobile 1 in any store or on their website. Mobile 1 used to have a Honda ATF recommendation on the back of their bottles, but I could not find a new bottle with the Honda recommendation, so I switched.
My 3g has 203,000 miles on it, with 100,000 on this tranny. My first tranny failed at 100K and I changed the ATF on schedule (using Honda Z1).
I've used 100% synthetic ATF on the second tranny.
My 3g has 203,000 miles on it, with 100,000 on this tranny. My first tranny failed at 100K and I changed the ATF on schedule (using Honda Z1).
I've used 100% synthetic ATF on the second tranny.
09-04-2012, 03:26 PM
#156
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
drain bolt? like on the bottom of the car? it just used a standard 1/2" ratchet.
09-04-2012, 03:39 PM
#157
I'm looking up the part number and it's giving me two.
90081-PE9-000 BOLT, PLUG (20MM) This one does not have the magnet on it....?
or
90081-PX4-003 BOLT, PLUG (18MM)
I have a stripped bolt that needs replacement. I just want to make sure I purchase the right one. It is for a 2008 Acura TL base AT
90081-PE9-000 BOLT, PLUG (20MM) This one does not have the magnet on it....?
or
90081-PX4-003 BOLT, PLUG (18MM)
I have a stripped bolt that needs replacement. I just want to make sure I purchase the right one. It is for a 2008 Acura TL base AT
09-04-2012, 03:49 PM
#158
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
^neither. it's a square hole opening. either 3/4" or 1/2"...i would call your acura dealer and see what they say.
09-04-2012, 03:56 PM
#159
I'm well aware it has a square hole opening. I believe the MM unit of length is describing the diameter of the plug. I know for a fact it is one of these. Just need help choosing the correct one. Anyone else?
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ONEOF137 (11-22-2012)
11-25-2012, 05:00 PM
#160
Well, I just did the first 1X3 that I did myself. What a nightmare! Next time should go much smoother, hopefully, with what I learned today.
Details:
2004 Acura TL with approx. 120,000 miles on it now. I had brought Amsoil fluid to the stealership a couple times and had them do a 1X3 with it. About 1,000 miles ago, planning to do this, but I did not have the time, so I had the stealership do another 1X3 with their new DW-1 stuff. I am not sure, but I am guessing since the car was new it has had two 1X3 changes with the Amsoil, one 1X3 with the Z1, one 1X3 with the DW-1 I just mentioned, and the 1X3 wtih Redline I did today.
What I am doing now:
I am following this prescription, all Redline fluid:
From this thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/optimal-percentage-racing-atf-834299/
I have an economy socket set with a 3/8" and a 1/4" socket wrench and I have a torque wrench I use for wheel changing, 1/2". Before the job today I got what extenders and adapters I needed to do it.
What I found out ...
- My drain bolt is a 3/8" recess. I have heard some are 1/2", apparently they are not all the same.
- If you have a spot that is level both front/back and side/side, jacking onto 4 jack stands is not necessary. Like others, I used Rhino Ramps and got 3 quarts out of my tranny easily. They may recommend that, and I have the jack and stands, but it is clearly not necessary. Unless I am changing my tires I will continue using the rhino ramps. I get the jack stands out when I change summer/winter tires only.
- I wanted to try that tubing in the dipstick method because it looks easy. No way the 3/8" OD 1/4" ID tubing is going into my dipstick tube. Won't fit. I put a smaller tube inside the 3/8" tubing from Lowes and gave up, going back after the regular fill bolt. It just would not flow. It has worked for some, obviously, but I'd recommend going after the fill bolt.
- A 3/8" socket extension ten inches long is not enough to reach the fill bolt. I had purchased it at Lowes, went back and exchanged it for a 3-piece extension set and put two of them together. So part of my frustration today was having to go shopping again. I have an 18" black iron pipe to use as an extension on the 3/8" socket wrench and had no issue getting either bolt off.
- Here's where it got really frustrating. When I remove the bolts from my fuse box, the wiring into it is so short and stiff, I cannot move it out of the way AT ALL. It moves maybe 1/4 inch off the holes for the 10mm bolts, but that is the absolute maximum, so getting after the fill bolt is really tough. I can snake my bare arm down there, but just, and you have to work by feel to put the bolt back. There is no way you can see it when your arm is down there. I could not get the threads started on that thing for 30 minutes. I was freezing and really getting irritated. Finally, I found that although it felt square, I was holding it cockeyed. I had to hold it so it felt cockeyed to finally get it to thread. Now that I know that, I think it will be a snap second time around. But lesson learned, just because the guy on YouTube has a fuse box that moves all over the place, yours may not. If it is wired tightly, like mine, it may not move at all. If you have big arms, have a skinny helper!
- Getting the plastic clips back in place on the splash guard is a PITA! Here's a tip for you -- completely remove the pin from the clip body and work the body into the splashguard, then put the pin back in. If you try to work the body back in place with the pin in it while not depressing the pin, good luck. You will drive yourself crazy.
- I reused the washers for both bolts, I just hand tightened the drain bolt with the 3/8" socket. I torqued the fill bolt to 33# with the torque wrench and if I get a short, 1/2" to 3/8" ball-end adapter I'll be able to torque the drain bolt.
I was going to do a 3X3 today, but with the shopping in the middle, fiddling with the tubing in the failed attempt at filling through the dipstick tube, and my insane struggle getting the fill bolt to thread I ran out of patience and daylight.
Whew! Success, finally. Drove around a little and everything is fine.
My tips to anyone wanting to do this -- It should be easy, and apparently usually is, so don't be dissuaded by my first experience.
1. Rhino ramps are just fine, and I'm not the first to report that. Based on our collective experience, don't go buy jack stands if you have rhino ramps. If you have them no reason not to use them, but don't go buying jack stands for this. Rhino ramps are perfectly functional if you are already on flat, level ground.
2. Buy your gear ahead of time. Have longer than a 10" extension for the 17mm fill bolt because your fuse box may not cooperate and get out of the way for you. Have a piece of black iron pipe for a breaker bar extension, cheap at Lowes or HD in the plumbing section.
3. Have one of those extendable magnets. I did not mention that, but it's good for retrieving the fill bolt.
4. Remove those pins from the plastic snaps before reinstalling the splash guard.
5. Having a torque wrench is nice, but I suspect not necessary, just don't gorilla the bolts. (Note to self, check the torque specs on both bolts since you do have a torque wrench).
6. I got away with using the plastic snaps and washers. I will order extras, just in case. Having them and not needing them is cheap insurance. If I was not lucky, needing them and not having them would be bad.
Thanks to all you guys who provide such excellent guidance for us non-mechanics! I am very grateful! I want this car to go well over 200,000 miles and there is no reason it should not do just that, thanks to your expert guidance!
Details:
2004 Acura TL with approx. 120,000 miles on it now. I had brought Amsoil fluid to the stealership a couple times and had them do a 1X3 with it. About 1,000 miles ago, planning to do this, but I did not have the time, so I had the stealership do another 1X3 with their new DW-1 stuff. I am not sure, but I am guessing since the car was new it has had two 1X3 changes with the Amsoil, one 1X3 with the Z1, one 1X3 with the DW-1 I just mentioned, and the 1X3 wtih Redline I did today.
What I am doing now:
I am following this prescription, all Redline fluid:
Refill #1 = 2 qt Racing ATF + 1 qt Lightweight ATF
Refill #2 = 2 qt Lightweight ATF + 1 qt Racing ATF
Refill #3 and later = 1 qt D4 + 1 qt Racing ATF + 1 qt Lightweight ATF
Refill #2 = 2 qt Lightweight ATF + 1 qt Racing ATF
Refill #3 and later = 1 qt D4 + 1 qt Racing ATF + 1 qt Lightweight ATF
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/optimal-percentage-racing-atf-834299/
I have an economy socket set with a 3/8" and a 1/4" socket wrench and I have a torque wrench I use for wheel changing, 1/2". Before the job today I got what extenders and adapters I needed to do it.
What I found out ...
- My drain bolt is a 3/8" recess. I have heard some are 1/2", apparently they are not all the same.
- If you have a spot that is level both front/back and side/side, jacking onto 4 jack stands is not necessary. Like others, I used Rhino Ramps and got 3 quarts out of my tranny easily. They may recommend that, and I have the jack and stands, but it is clearly not necessary. Unless I am changing my tires I will continue using the rhino ramps. I get the jack stands out when I change summer/winter tires only.
- I wanted to try that tubing in the dipstick method because it looks easy. No way the 3/8" OD 1/4" ID tubing is going into my dipstick tube. Won't fit. I put a smaller tube inside the 3/8" tubing from Lowes and gave up, going back after the regular fill bolt. It just would not flow. It has worked for some, obviously, but I'd recommend going after the fill bolt.
- A 3/8" socket extension ten inches long is not enough to reach the fill bolt. I had purchased it at Lowes, went back and exchanged it for a 3-piece extension set and put two of them together. So part of my frustration today was having to go shopping again. I have an 18" black iron pipe to use as an extension on the 3/8" socket wrench and had no issue getting either bolt off.
- Here's where it got really frustrating. When I remove the bolts from my fuse box, the wiring into it is so short and stiff, I cannot move it out of the way AT ALL. It moves maybe 1/4 inch off the holes for the 10mm bolts, but that is the absolute maximum, so getting after the fill bolt is really tough. I can snake my bare arm down there, but just, and you have to work by feel to put the bolt back. There is no way you can see it when your arm is down there. I could not get the threads started on that thing for 30 minutes. I was freezing and really getting irritated. Finally, I found that although it felt square, I was holding it cockeyed. I had to hold it so it felt cockeyed to finally get it to thread. Now that I know that, I think it will be a snap second time around. But lesson learned, just because the guy on YouTube has a fuse box that moves all over the place, yours may not. If it is wired tightly, like mine, it may not move at all. If you have big arms, have a skinny helper!
- Getting the plastic clips back in place on the splash guard is a PITA! Here's a tip for you -- completely remove the pin from the clip body and work the body into the splashguard, then put the pin back in. If you try to work the body back in place with the pin in it while not depressing the pin, good luck. You will drive yourself crazy.
- I reused the washers for both bolts, I just hand tightened the drain bolt with the 3/8" socket. I torqued the fill bolt to 33# with the torque wrench and if I get a short, 1/2" to 3/8" ball-end adapter I'll be able to torque the drain bolt.
I was going to do a 3X3 today, but with the shopping in the middle, fiddling with the tubing in the failed attempt at filling through the dipstick tube, and my insane struggle getting the fill bolt to thread I ran out of patience and daylight.
Whew! Success, finally. Drove around a little and everything is fine.
My tips to anyone wanting to do this -- It should be easy, and apparently usually is, so don't be dissuaded by my first experience.
1. Rhino ramps are just fine, and I'm not the first to report that. Based on our collective experience, don't go buy jack stands if you have rhino ramps. If you have them no reason not to use them, but don't go buying jack stands for this. Rhino ramps are perfectly functional if you are already on flat, level ground.
2. Buy your gear ahead of time. Have longer than a 10" extension for the 17mm fill bolt because your fuse box may not cooperate and get out of the way for you. Have a piece of black iron pipe for a breaker bar extension, cheap at Lowes or HD in the plumbing section.
3. Have one of those extendable magnets. I did not mention that, but it's good for retrieving the fill bolt.
4. Remove those pins from the plastic snaps before reinstalling the splash guard.
5. Having a torque wrench is nice, but I suspect not necessary, just don't gorilla the bolts. (Note to self, check the torque specs on both bolts since you do have a torque wrench).
6. I got away with using the plastic snaps and washers. I will order extras, just in case. Having them and not needing them is cheap insurance. If I was not lucky, needing them and not having them would be bad.
Thanks to all you guys who provide such excellent guidance for us non-mechanics! I am very grateful! I want this car to go well over 200,000 miles and there is no reason it should not do just that, thanks to your expert guidance!