Redline D6, Engine Mount, Suspension and Engine/Cabin Filter
09-21-2015, 11:04 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Redline D6, Engine Mount, Suspension and Engine/Cabin Filter
Hey all, I figured instead of making a single thread for each question I would just post all three things in one. I apologize as it turned out into quite a long post.
1) I've done a ton of research and have searched the forum as well. I've decided to do a 3x3 over the next 10,000km (6,200 miles). Some background, my '04 TL 5AT is currently at 254,000km (158,000 miles). I purchased it last year and I did the 3rd and 4th pressure switches at 230k km (143k mi). I do not believe they were ever done before.
From the records I've obtained, the transmission fluid was drained and filled at Acura twice in the car's lifetime, 139k km (86k mi) (Back in 2008, so I'm guessing ATF-Z1) and again, 210k km (130.5k mi) in 2013 (DW-1). So I've only put about 44k km (24k mi).
The car is a daily driver in Canada, and it sees winters in excess of -20 degrees Celsius, (-4F) for its driving. I've decided to get Redline D6. It is going to cost me about $15 CAD ($11.33 USD on today's date), per quart. I have access to Mobil 1 Dexron 6 for about $7.40 CAD (so about half the price). I've decided to use Redline D6 regardless. I was wondering if anyone in Canada has a means to get D6 any cheaper right now? I've tried searching the web, but I may have missed something. Any feedback with regards to ATF would also be appreciated.
2) I feel like my car has excess vibration, especially at idle in drive that goes away some in neutral. The car also shakes when its turned off/on. According to the Acura service records, the mounts were never changed. I believe my side mount (left side when facing car) is cracked in the rubber up top. I was wondering if anyone had any input on how to check the engine and transmission mounts for wear and tear? Some more info on the mounts would be appreciated.
3) I am getting some excessive roll from the back when I have weight in the backseat/ trunk and I'm changing lanes, especially at higher speeds. I've read some suspension threads but I'm still not sure what's going on. I was told to check the shocks/struts for leaks, how would I go about doing that? Some insight on the shocks/struts would be appreciated.
4) I'm definitely due for the engine and cabin air filter change. Both filters were done at Acura and they were done the same time as the second ATF (210k km). I've done some research for the engine filter and I've seen that WIX was a good one. However, I have no idea where to find those in Canada. If I'm going to be paying money at the dealership for a filter, I'd rather spend that money on a better aftermarket filter. Also, I've done some research on the cabin filter as well.
I definitely want to go with an Activated Charcoal filter. I don't mind paying the extra bit of money. I read that ATP was a good brand. I am also unable to find those in Canada. Any insight on these filters and any feedback from fellow Canadians on where to find parts at a fair price would be appreciated.
Sorry for the long read guys, but thanks for your time!!
1) I've done a ton of research and have searched the forum as well. I've decided to do a 3x3 over the next 10,000km (6,200 miles). Some background, my '04 TL 5AT is currently at 254,000km (158,000 miles). I purchased it last year and I did the 3rd and 4th pressure switches at 230k km (143k mi). I do not believe they were ever done before.
From the records I've obtained, the transmission fluid was drained and filled at Acura twice in the car's lifetime, 139k km (86k mi) (Back in 2008, so I'm guessing ATF-Z1) and again, 210k km (130.5k mi) in 2013 (DW-1). So I've only put about 44k km (24k mi).
The car is a daily driver in Canada, and it sees winters in excess of -20 degrees Celsius, (-4F) for its driving. I've decided to get Redline D6. It is going to cost me about $15 CAD ($11.33 USD on today's date), per quart. I have access to Mobil 1 Dexron 6 for about $7.40 CAD (so about half the price). I've decided to use Redline D6 regardless. I was wondering if anyone in Canada has a means to get D6 any cheaper right now? I've tried searching the web, but I may have missed something. Any feedback with regards to ATF would also be appreciated.
2) I feel like my car has excess vibration, especially at idle in drive that goes away some in neutral. The car also shakes when its turned off/on. According to the Acura service records, the mounts were never changed. I believe my side mount (left side when facing car) is cracked in the rubber up top. I was wondering if anyone had any input on how to check the engine and transmission mounts for wear and tear? Some more info on the mounts would be appreciated.
3) I am getting some excessive roll from the back when I have weight in the backseat/ trunk and I'm changing lanes, especially at higher speeds. I've read some suspension threads but I'm still not sure what's going on. I was told to check the shocks/struts for leaks, how would I go about doing that? Some insight on the shocks/struts would be appreciated.
4) I'm definitely due for the engine and cabin air filter change. Both filters were done at Acura and they were done the same time as the second ATF (210k km). I've done some research for the engine filter and I've seen that WIX was a good one. However, I have no idea where to find those in Canada. If I'm going to be paying money at the dealership for a filter, I'd rather spend that money on a better aftermarket filter. Also, I've done some research on the cabin filter as well.
I definitely want to go with an Activated Charcoal filter. I don't mind paying the extra bit of money. I read that ATP was a good brand. I am also unable to find those in Canada. Any insight on these filters and any feedback from fellow Canadians on where to find parts at a fair price would be appreciated.
Sorry for the long read guys, but thanks for your time!!
Last edited by vpasla1; 09-21-2015 at 11:19 PM.
09-22-2015, 10:30 PM
#3
Senior Moderator
1. I have no experience with D6 but I would stick with DW-1 as it's a fairly good fluid esp in very cold temperatures. And because you can't be faulted if something does go wrong. I'm not sure that D6 is spec'd for the TL, I though it was D4. There's an internal transmission filter that can be replaced, it'd be wise to replace that. I'd also go ahead and do the switches too. Also there is a transmission solenoid under the battery that you can remove and clean the mesh screens on.
2. I'd go ahead and replace all 3 mounts along with the transmission mounts. With that mileage they are worn, period.They are vacuum assisted mounts that rely on engine vaccum pressure to make them stiffer under heavy engine load. If the rubber is cracked or torn, there's a small leak for air to get in under high load that's unmetered. The rear engine mount does most of the vibration dampining, the side mount helps a lot with the A/C vibrations along with the front. Also installing a torque damper is a good call, 6MT come standard with it and the damper may wear over time.
3. 2004 TL's had an issue with rear tire wear with loads in the rear. The issue was rectified in 2005 with new bump stops that would be replaced on affected cars. Theres a TSB for it in the 3G TL service dept. Also with that mileage, the struts need to be replaced. I replaced mine with a set of 2005 assemblies off a car with 20K miles since the guy went with coilovers. Look in the black market and post a WTB ad and you might find a deal!
Also you should look at the front compliance bushings and see if they need to be replaced. I did mine at 190 and they def were worn. I posted pictures in the 10+ page thread in problems and fixes section.
After you get new shocks and fix the bushings, get an alignment! If you drive aggressively you'll appreciate an upgrade of the rear sway bar. I have the 22mm comptech one, the 22/24 adjustable Progress bar is on sale for under $150 these days if you look at the thread in Suspension section.
4. Buy the filters from amazon.com and don't worry. They are the same as OEM and work well. I've used the ATP HA5 filter in my TL for the last 120K miles changing them every 30K. Use them in all the other cars as well. With that mileage, get the A/C refridgerant level checked. With it being fall there will be a lot of specials at repair shops going on. You'll probably need a small refill as some does leak out over time.
5. Use a good fuel cleaner like Redline SI-1 and your engine will appreciate it. Also stick with 91+ octane. I would also suggest that when you have a chance, make sure all your spark plugs are night and tight. They tend to vibrate and back out sometimes and that can cause a spark plug ejection. A simple check to make sure they are torqued down properly is key.
6. Look through a few of the sections and do some light reading, it'll really pay off in the long run!
2. I'd go ahead and replace all 3 mounts along with the transmission mounts. With that mileage they are worn, period.They are vacuum assisted mounts that rely on engine vaccum pressure to make them stiffer under heavy engine load. If the rubber is cracked or torn, there's a small leak for air to get in under high load that's unmetered. The rear engine mount does most of the vibration dampining, the side mount helps a lot with the A/C vibrations along with the front. Also installing a torque damper is a good call, 6MT come standard with it and the damper may wear over time.
3. 2004 TL's had an issue with rear tire wear with loads in the rear. The issue was rectified in 2005 with new bump stops that would be replaced on affected cars. Theres a TSB for it in the 3G TL service dept. Also with that mileage, the struts need to be replaced. I replaced mine with a set of 2005 assemblies off a car with 20K miles since the guy went with coilovers. Look in the black market and post a WTB ad and you might find a deal!
Also you should look at the front compliance bushings and see if they need to be replaced. I did mine at 190 and they def were worn. I posted pictures in the 10+ page thread in problems and fixes section.
After you get new shocks and fix the bushings, get an alignment! If you drive aggressively you'll appreciate an upgrade of the rear sway bar. I have the 22mm comptech one, the 22/24 adjustable Progress bar is on sale for under $150 these days if you look at the thread in Suspension section.
4. Buy the filters from amazon.com and don't worry. They are the same as OEM and work well. I've used the ATP HA5 filter in my TL for the last 120K miles changing them every 30K. Use them in all the other cars as well. With that mileage, get the A/C refridgerant level checked. With it being fall there will be a lot of specials at repair shops going on. You'll probably need a small refill as some does leak out over time.
5. Use a good fuel cleaner like Redline SI-1 and your engine will appreciate it. Also stick with 91+ octane. I would also suggest that when you have a chance, make sure all your spark plugs are night and tight. They tend to vibrate and back out sometimes and that can cause a spark plug ejection. A simple check to make sure they are torqued down properly is key.
6. Look through a few of the sections and do some light reading, it'll really pay off in the long run!
The following users liked this post:
triax37 (09-24-2015)
09-23-2015, 11:27 PM
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
1. I have no experience with D6 but I would stick with DW-1 as it's a fairly good fluid esp in very cold temperatures. And because you can't be faulted if something does go wrong. I'm not sure that D6 is spec'd for the TL, I though it was D4. There's an internal transmission filter that can be replaced, it'd be wise to replace that. I'd also go ahead and do the switches too. Also there is a transmission solenoid under the battery that you can remove and clean the mesh screens on.
2. I'd go ahead and replace all 3 mounts along with the transmission mounts. With that mileage they are worn, period.They are vacuum assisted mounts that rely on engine vaccum pressure to make them stiffer under heavy engine load. If the rubber is cracked or torn, there's a small leak for air to get in under high load that's unmetered. The rear engine mount does most of the vibration dampining, the side mount helps a lot with the A/C vibrations along with the front. Also installing a torque damper is a good call, 6MT come standard with it and the damper may wear over time.
3. 2004 TL's had an issue with rear tire wear with loads in the rear. The issue was rectified in 2005 with new bump stops that would be replaced on affected cars. Theres a TSB for it in the 3G TL service dept. Also with that mileage, the struts need to be replaced. I replaced mine with a set of 2005 assemblies off a car with 20K miles since the guy went with coilovers. Look in the black market and post a WTB ad and you might find a deal!
Also you should look at the front compliance bushings and see if they need to be replaced. I did mine at 190 and they def were worn. I posted pictures in the 10+ page thread in problems and fixes section.
After you get new shocks and fix the bushings, get an alignment! If you drive aggressively you'll appreciate an upgrade of the rear sway bar. I have the 22mm comptech one, the 22/24 adjustable Progress bar is on sale for under $150 these days if you look at the thread in Suspension section.
4. Buy the filters from amazon.com and don't worry. They are the same as OEM and work well. I've used the ATP HA5 filter in my TL for the last 120K miles changing them every 30K. Use them in all the other cars as well. With that mileage, get the A/C refridgerant level checked. With it being fall there will be a lot of specials at repair shops going on. You'll probably need a small refill as some does leak out over time.
5. Use a good fuel cleaner like Redline SI-1 and your engine will appreciate it. Also stick with 91+ octane. I would also suggest that when you have a chance, make sure all your spark plugs are night and tight. They tend to vibrate and back out sometimes and that can cause a spark plug ejection. A simple check to make sure they are torqued down properly is key.
6. Look through a few of the sections and do some light reading, it'll really pay off in the long run!
2. I'd go ahead and replace all 3 mounts along with the transmission mounts. With that mileage they are worn, period.They are vacuum assisted mounts that rely on engine vaccum pressure to make them stiffer under heavy engine load. If the rubber is cracked or torn, there's a small leak for air to get in under high load that's unmetered. The rear engine mount does most of the vibration dampining, the side mount helps a lot with the A/C vibrations along with the front. Also installing a torque damper is a good call, 6MT come standard with it and the damper may wear over time.
3. 2004 TL's had an issue with rear tire wear with loads in the rear. The issue was rectified in 2005 with new bump stops that would be replaced on affected cars. Theres a TSB for it in the 3G TL service dept. Also with that mileage, the struts need to be replaced. I replaced mine with a set of 2005 assemblies off a car with 20K miles since the guy went with coilovers. Look in the black market and post a WTB ad and you might find a deal!
Also you should look at the front compliance bushings and see if they need to be replaced. I did mine at 190 and they def were worn. I posted pictures in the 10+ page thread in problems and fixes section.
After you get new shocks and fix the bushings, get an alignment! If you drive aggressively you'll appreciate an upgrade of the rear sway bar. I have the 22mm comptech one, the 22/24 adjustable Progress bar is on sale for under $150 these days if you look at the thread in Suspension section.
4. Buy the filters from amazon.com and don't worry. They are the same as OEM and work well. I've used the ATP HA5 filter in my TL for the last 120K miles changing them every 30K. Use them in all the other cars as well. With that mileage, get the A/C refridgerant level checked. With it being fall there will be a lot of specials at repair shops going on. You'll probably need a small refill as some does leak out over time.
5. Use a good fuel cleaner like Redline SI-1 and your engine will appreciate it. Also stick with 91+ octane. I would also suggest that when you have a chance, make sure all your spark plugs are night and tight. They tend to vibrate and back out sometimes and that can cause a spark plug ejection. A simple check to make sure they are torqued down properly is key.
6. Look through a few of the sections and do some light reading, it'll really pay off in the long run!
@csmeance First of all I wanted to thank you for your very detailed reply. It answered my questions clearly and more.
1) Redline D6 is spec'd as compatible for DW-1. Redline D4 is spec'd as compatible for ATF-Z1. I did a lot of reading online and people who had the shudder were able to cure it with both D4, and D6, but I would rather go with D6 since it is compatible with DW-1. I do not have the shudder but I hope to prevent it from every happening (knock on wood). The pressure switches were done less than a year ago, and I've only put roughly 25k km (15k mi) on them. Most of that driving is highway in 5th gear. I was planning on doing them after another 25k km. I will definitely look into the solenoid.
2) I will definitely do the mounts asap. Any assistance with part numbers would be appreciated. I will go with OEM because from what I read a lot of the aftermarket do not have the vacuum assistance. Would you be able to provide me some more information on the torque dampener? From what I read it would help to slow down the wear and tear on the mounts?
3) The struts are high on my priority list. Any advice on which ones to get? I was looking at the A-Spec ones that are currently available. However, it'll be over $1000 CAD plus duties. The cheapest price I'm getting locally is about $150 CAD per strut. Does that sound reasonable? Should I be doing the front and back at the same time? I will definitely post a WTB.
According to the documentation I received, the front Compliance Bushings were done at 182k km (113k mi). I did take a look at them with the wheels off and the rubber seems to be in good condition with no cracks.
I try not to drive too aggressively because I want the transmission to last. But I will look into the upgraded sway bar after I complete the other work and feel that I could use an upgrade. I plan on getting new tires in the spring (I have a set of winter tires on 2G TL rims, that I'm going to be putting on in the next couple of months), depending on how soon I do the suspension I may wait until then to do an alignment.
4) I ordered the ATP HA-5 online for about $35 CAD after taxes. I don't mind paying an extra $10 for quality. I found a DIY for the filter change and I'll be doing that when it comes in. I'm going to be picking up a Fram Extra Guard CA9600 for the Engine Air filter. It's the only one available locally and reading online the reviews seem to be favourable for this filter. It's a shame Fram doesn't make a Tough Guard or Platinum Premium for this filter model though.
I have the tools to do an A/C refill at home, so I'll be doing that shortly. The AC is very cool in the car, I can usually keep it at 25deg C (77 F) and it'll keep the car very cool on Auto.
5) I only put in Top Tier 91 Octane gas in this vehicle. I'm not going to save a few dollars a fill up to knock the engine.
I've found Redline products are difficult to find locally in Canada, but I did run the STP Ultra 5 in 1 Fuel System Cleaner (Ultra 5 In 1 Fuel System Cleaner | STP.com) a few months ago. At the time, I don't think I noticed a significant difference in the vehicle. It did run rich fuel wise for about 1-2k km but then came back to the average mileage, but I've found that is usually the case with this Fuel Additive.
I will definitely check the Spark Plugs when I get the chance.
6) I have done a lot of reading, there is so much valuable information on this site.
Thanks again for all your help!!
09-24-2015, 08:16 AM
#5
Registered Bunny
$15 is a good price. I was able to source it in Laval, Quebec for $13/qt if you buy a crate of 12. So you'd save $24... Depends where you are, I agree they're hard to source.
I am running D4 by the way and no issue here. Z1 wasn't a problem when it was brand new, it's that it went bad really quickly.
If you decide not to go with Redline products... just get DW-1 from Honda.
I am running D4 by the way and no issue here. Z1 wasn't a problem when it was brand new, it's that it went bad really quickly.
If you decide not to go with Redline products... just get DW-1 from Honda.
09-30-2015, 06:38 PM
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
$15 is a good price. I was able to source it in Laval, Quebec for $13/qt if you buy a crate of 12. So you'd save $24... Depends where you are, I agree they're hard to source.
I am running D4 by the way and no issue here. Z1 wasn't a problem when it was brand new, it's that it went bad really quickly.
If you decide not to go with Redline products... just get DW-1 from Honda.
I am running D4 by the way and no issue here. Z1 wasn't a problem when it was brand new, it's that it went bad really quickly.
If you decide not to go with Redline products... just get DW-1 from Honda.
09-17-2016, 07:24 PM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
To update this thead. I replaced the engine air filter with the Fram CA9600 filter from Canadian Tire, and I ordered the ATP HA-5. They were both definitely due for a change.I also ended up changing the transmission filter (it wasn't falling apart or anything when removed and I did a 1x3 with Redline D6. I'm probably going to do a 1x3 with the D6 every other oil change (about 15k miles, depending on the MID). Engine mounts (front and side) and rear struts were done. My fork damper bolts are seized (upper and lower) so I haven't had a chance to do the front ones yet. The excessive back roll was due to the tires, it mostly went away with the winter tires, and once I upgraded the rear sway bar it was gone.
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