Question about possible overmix of redline racing ATF
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Question about possible overmix of redline racing ATF
So I did 2 drain and refills so far on my 08 TL.
1st mix: 2 quarts of Type F and 1 quart of lightweight racing atf
2nd mix: my mechanic drained 4 quarts by mistake, so I replaced it with 3 quarts racing atf and 1 quart lightweight.
Now I'm approaching my 3rd drain and I don't know how to mix it anymore. I have another 1 quart lightweight racing atf and 1 quart D4 in my garage. What should I do?
Should I just buy another 1 quart lightweight or another 1 quart D4?
I live in Canada so I need the most reliable viscosity for all year round as this is my daily driver
Edit: I street race almost all the time aha so I need to make sure I still have quick shifts
1st mix: 2 quarts of Type F and 1 quart of lightweight racing atf
2nd mix: my mechanic drained 4 quarts by mistake, so I replaced it with 3 quarts racing atf and 1 quart lightweight.
Now I'm approaching my 3rd drain and I don't know how to mix it anymore. I have another 1 quart lightweight racing atf and 1 quart D4 in my garage. What should I do?
Should I just buy another 1 quart lightweight or another 1 quart D4?
I live in Canada so I need the most reliable viscosity for all year round as this is my daily driver
Edit: I street race almost all the time aha so I need to make sure I still have quick shifts
Last edited by Pegon95; 07-24-2015 at 03:16 PM.
#2
How do you drain 4 quarts? I thought 3 is the max that comes out from a gravity drain? I don't think the combination is as important as getting the correct level so just use the dipstick to make sure you get to the correct level.
I did a heavily racing/racing lightweight for 3 drain refills, I was trying to combat a failing transmission. My shifts have actually improved and the transmission I thought was going to die in a few thousand miles has lasted 30k longer so far. But I have started doing 2/3rds D4. I think I read something about some benefit to having some friction modifier. The lightweight made my shifts very "hard."
I did a heavily racing/racing lightweight for 3 drain refills, I was trying to combat a failing transmission. My shifts have actually improved and the transmission I thought was going to die in a few thousand miles has lasted 30k longer so far. But I have started doing 2/3rds D4. I think I read something about some benefit to having some friction modifier. The lightweight made my shifts very "hard."
#3
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
How do you drain 4 quarts? I thought 3 is the max that comes out from a gravity drain? I don't think the combination is as important as getting the correct level so just use the dipstick to make sure you get to the correct level.
I did a heavily racing/racing lightweight for 3 drain refills, I was trying to combat a failing transmission. My shifts have actually improved and the transmission I thought was going to die in a few thousand miles has lasted 30k longer so far. But I have started doing 2/3rds D4. I think I read something about some benefit to having some friction modifier. The lightweight made my shifts very "hard."
I did a heavily racing/racing lightweight for 3 drain refills, I was trying to combat a failing transmission. My shifts have actually improved and the transmission I thought was going to die in a few thousand miles has lasted 30k longer so far. But I have started doing 2/3rds D4. I think I read something about some benefit to having some friction modifier. The lightweight made my shifts very "hard."
#6
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#8
#10
No, it should be level when you are checking the dipstick. It does not matter if it is level or not when you are draining it. You might get more or less fluid out but as long as you refill it with the same amount and check the dipstick while it's level it will be fine. Some cars have to be level when changing the trans fluid but not ours.
#11
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