Painted emblems
10-10-2013, 11:31 PM
#1
Painted emblems
I'm new to the forums and the first mod I want to do is paint my emblems black so I wanna see what some of yalls emblems. I personally don't like the plastidip look. Post pictures of ur emblems and how u did it. Thanks
10-11-2013, 12:54 AM
#3
Here:
Those are painted. Color is dupli-color's enamel gloss black, I painted them as follows:
1 - Remove emblems, use dental floss inbetween the painted surface and emblem to cut the double stick then goo-gone to remove the residual double stick.
2 - Scuff emblems - I used gray scotch brite pads to scuff them until water sheets on the emblems. You don't want it to bead up at all, if it does keep scuffing until water sheets. Let it dry completely before proceeding and clean with dish soap like dawn to de-grease.
3 - Hit the emblems with duplicolor prep spray & allow follow the directions to let it evaporate
4 - Spray the emblems with 2 light coats of bull-dog, following recoat windows, careful with the bulldog it'll run really easy if oversprayed
5 - Paint with dupli-color enamel gloss black
- Coat 1 is light, dusting
- Coat 2 is also light, full coverage
- Coat 3 is medium
- Coat 4 is medium/heavy
Follow re-coat windows between each coat
6 - Paint with Spraymax 2k Glamour Clear coat
--- Warning here .. the spraymax 2k contains isocyanates and is extremely hazardous to your heatlh. Standard OV filters on your respirator last less than 10 minutes around this chemical (check the sheets) and it's odorless. It can cause major respiratory problems and you can become 'sensitized' to it and have an asthmatic reactions anytime you're near it in the future, for the rest of your life. Check the hazards, its not pleasant stuff and take appropriate precautions. I used a paint booth and put new filters on my respirator before starting to spray. Also wore gloves, coveralls, non-vented goggles and sprayed the paint so it would flow away from me and toward the paint booth ventilation. And I exited the paint booth between coats while I waited about 15 minutes for my re-coat window each time.
- Spray it on in same way as you did the enamel black, following re-coat windows on the clear coat.
The spraymax is dangerous for CC due to the isocyanates, just google the chemical name and you can read about it. But you're not going to find another rattle can clear coat that has as good of a finish as you'll get from the 2k spraymax CC.
My paint has been on the emblems for over a year now and no chipping or flaking at all.
I used one-shot red pin-striping paint for the A-SPEC lettering after the clear coat cured.
Also carefully used an exacto knife and 3M double-stick tape to re-affix the emblems. I put the double stick on the back of the emblems before putting them back onto the car.
Those are painted. Color is dupli-color's enamel gloss black, I painted them as follows:
1 - Remove emblems, use dental floss inbetween the painted surface and emblem to cut the double stick then goo-gone to remove the residual double stick.
2 - Scuff emblems - I used gray scotch brite pads to scuff them until water sheets on the emblems. You don't want it to bead up at all, if it does keep scuffing until water sheets. Let it dry completely before proceeding and clean with dish soap like dawn to de-grease.
3 - Hit the emblems with duplicolor prep spray & allow follow the directions to let it evaporate
4 - Spray the emblems with 2 light coats of bull-dog, following recoat windows, careful with the bulldog it'll run really easy if oversprayed
5 - Paint with dupli-color enamel gloss black
- Coat 1 is light, dusting
- Coat 2 is also light, full coverage
- Coat 3 is medium
- Coat 4 is medium/heavy
Follow re-coat windows between each coat
6 - Paint with Spraymax 2k Glamour Clear coat
--- Warning here .. the spraymax 2k contains isocyanates and is extremely hazardous to your heatlh. Standard OV filters on your respirator last less than 10 minutes around this chemical (check the sheets) and it's odorless. It can cause major respiratory problems and you can become 'sensitized' to it and have an asthmatic reactions anytime you're near it in the future, for the rest of your life. Check the hazards, its not pleasant stuff and take appropriate precautions. I used a paint booth and put new filters on my respirator before starting to spray. Also wore gloves, coveralls, non-vented goggles and sprayed the paint so it would flow away from me and toward the paint booth ventilation. And I exited the paint booth between coats while I waited about 15 minutes for my re-coat window each time.
- Spray it on in same way as you did the enamel black, following re-coat windows on the clear coat.
The spraymax is dangerous for CC due to the isocyanates, just google the chemical name and you can read about it. But you're not going to find another rattle can clear coat that has as good of a finish as you'll get from the 2k spraymax CC.
My paint has been on the emblems for over a year now and no chipping or flaking at all.
I used one-shot red pin-striping paint for the A-SPEC lettering after the clear coat cured.
Also carefully used an exacto knife and 3M double-stick tape to re-affix the emblems. I put the double stick on the back of the emblems before putting them back onto the car.
Last edited by mzilvar; 10-11-2013 at 01:06 AM.
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10-12-2013, 01:47 AM
#9
^^ Yah thats true it is expensive.
I actually have another can sitting on my dresser right now. Not sure what I'm going to use it for, I was originally going to use it to re-paint my C-MOD grill but decided to have the body shop re-do it NBP with some other parts on the car when I have my RonJon bumper installed.
I actually have another can sitting on my dresser right now. Not sure what I'm going to use it for, I was originally going to use it to re-paint my C-MOD grill but decided to have the body shop re-do it NBP with some other parts on the car when I have my RonJon bumper installed.
10-19-2013, 07:41 PM
#14
Here's the photo of it with red lettering:
I need to wash my car.
When I painted I did everything wet on wet, only took a little over an hour to have all of the paint on from start to finish. If you wait too long your paint won't cure or it'll peel. Once the paint has cured, you're supposed to wait 7 days and then scuff it prior to painting it again or you won't get any adhesion. Paint has two ways to hold on.. mechanical adhesion (from the scratch lines) and chemical adhesion to prior layers.
Once everything was cured I did the lettering, had to scuff the inside of the emblem where the lettering was carefully, then painted by hand with a paint brush and wiped the excess off the surface while it was wet.
I used pin-striping paint for the lettering (one-shot) which is designed to go on top of clear coat.
I need to wash my car.
When I painted I did everything wet on wet, only took a little over an hour to have all of the paint on from start to finish. If you wait too long your paint won't cure or it'll peel. Once the paint has cured, you're supposed to wait 7 days and then scuff it prior to painting it again or you won't get any adhesion. Paint has two ways to hold on.. mechanical adhesion (from the scratch lines) and chemical adhesion to prior layers.
Once everything was cured I did the lettering, had to scuff the inside of the emblem where the lettering was carefully, then painted by hand with a paint brush and wiped the excess off the surface while it was wet.
I used pin-striping paint for the lettering (one-shot) which is designed to go on top of clear coat.
Last edited by mzilvar; 10-19-2013 at 07:45 PM.
The following 3 users liked this post by yn1scott:
10-20-2013, 01:18 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
Remove the emblems. Base coat with plasti dip then dupli colour engine enamel gloss black on top. It'll come out perfect, and if you ever decide you want to go back to chrome, it'll peel off.
10-16-2016, 07:15 AM
#21
All of your typical auto stores usually has it too
06-29-2019, 04:17 AM
#22
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